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I have a question.
Does anyone have any experience with the newish generation of compact 12V drills.
I'm looking at Bosch, Makita and Milwaukee.
With this kind of work I only need to drill for pin switches, occasionally a bulkhead and LED/Valet switches so I'm after reliability, handling with compact size and swap-over for screwdriving.
I still have my Bosch 18V lithium for heavier work.
I can only get the 10.8V versions in the UK, why???.
And don't even go there on the UK prices. Reminds me of 30 years ago, as soon as we landed in the US, ostensibly on holiday, we went out chasing down Snap-On vans and visiting Sears Stores.
Just realised why I'm divorced!
So if any of you have used the above professionally and have any thoughts let me know please.
I've got a friend staying in Florida in 2 weeks who'll get it for me.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have a Craftsman 19.2volt for my heavy duty work but I have a much more compact Craftsman 12volt lithium ion drill for the small work. I love it because it is very compact but the battery lasts me multiple installs without having to change it. It's also nice because I can use it as a 'bench test' power pack for small electronics (LED strips, small lights, etc). Yes I know this isn't really the safest action (especially for the battery), but it works nicely in a pinch.
Here is the drill: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-17586-nextec-12.0v-lithium-ion-drill-driver/p-00917586000P?prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G15

Unfortunately I don't know how accessible Craftsman is over there...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I actually have this 'kit'. The LED light is actually very handy. It can be a little pain to aim it where I need though. I did pick up the flourescent light from the 'series' but I end up using the LED light more often. I end up having to swap the battery in the flour. light 2-3 times in one install. I wish they'd make an LED version of it because the light output from it is great.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-12.0-volt-lithium-ion-drill-and-led/p-00930286000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Going to that site puts me straight to their UK listing at $60.
That's a good 50% less than the others, except their specs., especially the Milwaukee are far higher, metal gearing 2 x more powerful batteries etc.
I'm assuming the chargers are all switched power supplies so I'll have no problems changing the wall outlet US 110V to the UK/Europe 230V.
Most switched power supplies as against transformers will run from 90-250V with no problems. How do you think I charge the Viper remotes?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I love mine. I drill out hood pin switches and everything with it. The only time I ever end up using my 18 volt is if I have to drill into thick metal or through wood. I even bought a second one that I keep in my office for prepping (twisting wires); and as a back-up just in case. I don't use the power supply though when testing small circuits, I use the battery itself. They even make it easier by labeling the + and - for me.. haha.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

What do you use for a work light? I hate having cords everywhere and I usually end up getting tangled in them... which is why I picked up the butane soldering iron for the small gauge wires. But most of the LED work lights I find are just too bulky and get in the way. I just need something small, compact, decent brightness, and will last at least 3 hours on a full charge. I'm almost debating pulling my flourescent light apart and making my own LED light.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I use a Bosch 12v lithium drill. Comes with 2 batteries and the adjustable angle head makes it so convenient for any tight spots.
https://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=PS11-2A

It seems Howard has eliminated the "cheap" maybes... and sticks to Lithium (forget NiCads & NiMH). A Quality & experienced man indeed!
I like the gearbox types but that's for more general mech work, Otherwise a high speed (not just up to 200 or 400RPM etc) for drilling as well as faster screwing.

Light wise - yeah LEDs. I've had various 3xAAA puck types with strong magnetic bases and hooks. The best are the push lens to toggle on/off; rim switches can be tricky to find.

I've recently been using an Aldi hi/lo rechargeable with magnet etc and size ~1.5x TV remotes (lengthwise). Also nice as power fail light - ie, sits in cradle normally charging/floating and automatically turns on when AC power fails (at lo/dim level).

And then there are the cap mounting or headband spots. The later IMO must be dimmable and have adjustable lenses. Often used mobile when the pucks can't be used conveniently else are more for general lighting.

I like fluoros, but I think they have had their "tactical" day.

The flouro works great, it just doesn't quite last as long as I'd like. It does provide plenty of lighting though. I used to use a cap light but found that I usually ripped my hat off and threw it within 5 minutes into the install. It would always get in the way when I was trying to get my head up behind the dash.

While we're talking tools here (and sorry to hijack Howie... please don't hate me... haha). What the hell is the board called that sits on the door sill and allows you to not break your back? I'm getting tired of sitting on a cold and wet floor trying to do these installs.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Actually I call mine a Snap-On foam mat but I didn't get it from Sap-On, far cheaper from a regular motor parts store.
Back in the days when we added lots of door actuators and power window conversions, we'd sit on a low stool.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Think about Dewalt, i'll never own anything but them. They truely are a step above the rest in torque and battery life. I had a Milwaukee and thought it was cheesy.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Before my last Bosch died after five years of constant use, my best pal who has a vacation home in Orlando bought a Skil locally.
It turns out to be the same 10.8V as my Bosch only $30 in the US as against £60, $90 in the UK.
Then the motor seized, sorted that now the internal chip has failed. Bin job.
Nothing against the DeWalt, it's the shortest and joint most powerful but why do you think the Makita is "cheesy" Mike?
P.S. I was under the impression they were all made in Mexico, only the $400+ top end units are made in Switzerland by Scintilla S.A.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I often hear Dewalt is #1 with Milwaukee often #2. I know Bosch can be good (despite my dislike of Bosch for car electrics) as can others.

Lower priced stuff can be good for more casual users (pro's need reliability!) and it's often the battery that is problem. (My $15 SLA 12V 1.2AH substitution on my girlfriends CHEAP AUD$20 cordless GMC is still working well. May be better than getting the "quality" ~$76 NiCads or NiMH that should have been used. These day's I'll only consider Lithiums.)

Howie, I have several Milwaukee M-12 units. Great torque, and even better battery life. I have one high capacity battery and 5 standard batteries. I ride the motorcycle to do tracking device jobs and haul all the batteries with me, no room to haul the charger. I have done 50 tracking devices in a day and have never depleted one of the standard batteries. I have 3 of the 1/4 inch driver units. I am still looking for a drill. I am sure I will find one in the pawn shop soon.

So far many thanks for your considered responses.
It looks like a toss up between the Dewalt and the Milwaukee.
Unless Mike want's to explain the "cheesy" part?
There's a home depot 3 miles from my pal's Orlando home so that's job #1, Home Depot is the cheapest for Milwaukee at $129 and the Dewalt at $149.
Or I get a driver unit with a 1/4" bit size chuck attachment, thus shorter length for in and under dash; oh the joy of being 66 with RSI on both wrists.
Craig 60 in a day? I thought I was holding the world record at 40 trucks in 18 hours!
But then that's why I carry two Pyropens and spare cans purified Butane!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Dewalt 1/4 impact with chuck accessory is an awesome piece

I had to go recheck, I did not have my glasses on, but it is you that needs the glasses. Fifty. The units I do are cake. 3 wires and one box. No antenna, just Constant, Ignition and Ground. I do have a helper prepping the harness for me. Usually my Dad. And 2 guys staging the vehicles.

Not just glasses Craig, I think for me it's early onset senile dementia.
But I have no helpers or preppers but if you mean by staging the driver's bringing the vehicles to where you want, then yes.
We've gone backwards with the latest fleet units, tiny in size BUT plus ign. ACC and ground + CAN hi lo for complete history plus external GPS and (here) GSM antennae.
Any one match THIS tracking install week around 4 years ago?
150 vehicles over 5 days but travelled to 6 major airports in the UK do do it.
London Heathrow to Glasgow Airport with stopovers at East Midlands, Leeds-Bradford, Birmingham and Manchester International, all by car and 1200 miles!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Mike M2 wrote:

Think about Dewalt, i'll never own anything but them. They truely are a step above the rest in torque and battery life. I had a Milwaukee and thought it was cheesy.

Have 3 dewalts and 1 snap on.
My 12v dewalt is 15 years old and still works
The snap on is 9v and has no balls but is very small.

I had a similar(?) Snap-On about 10 years ago, nice lighting but as you said, gutless, non-bending screwdriver configuration so effectively useless under dash.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I can take my 18volt Dewalt and drill 4 1 inch holes in a solid metal truck bumper for sensors, then go install for 3 more days before the battery dies. They are flat out tough...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

i use a Hitachi lithium 12v impact, its brother the normal Hitachi drill w/ chuck, and a small snap-on 10.2v(i think)for tighter spaces. honesty i have been the most impressed by these little Hitachi drills, for their size and voltage they have some serious torgue, i have broken seatbelt and battery post bolts with them in a pinch when i cant use or dont have a wrench. i also have to be careful not to snap off screw heads by over tightening. i beat the hell out of them every day for 3 years without any issues and they still work like the day i got them.

also i only ever buy 12V or 14V cordless drills because you can use them for testing and other things like rolling a car window up or testing a radio in the field, cant do that with an 18V or a 10V in some cases.

Dewalt, they make ok power tools in my opinion, i used to work with their heavy duty 18V drills and we had to bring them back in for warranty service almost every 6-8 months for a stripped clutch. ive never had so many problems with any one type of drill. not to mention that the battery on the lithium dewalt impact is wider than any other lithium impact, which can keep them from getting as close as possible to the firewall of a car. \

also another thought is that i know some of the super compact lithium drills have a lot of tourque, just like my Snap-on which will whip your wrist around like a big corded drill can but it doesnt have the rotational speed to drill holes and screws efficiently, takes forever to drill a hole through a car so i only use it as a last resort.

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The whole point being that with alarm work, how many holes are you drilling?
Hood switch, maybe (rarely) bulkhead, LED sometimes, valet switch sometimes.
Heck I used tap-tights or bolts for the siren.
I've got an 18V Bosch Lithium for things like drilling the bumpers.
After getting a feel for which make the root of my question was drill driver or impact driver or both?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.