remote start issue thoughts?

Hello everyone.

I recently bought a Ready Remote brand Remote Start device it was new, never opened. I bought it at a low price because the person who had it never needed it. I believe the device number is 24923, But it might be 24926, I forgot already
I'm not expecting a great unit as I know its older.

But I have some issues with it.
It is wired up correctly though as its all be tested and checked upon connecting.

First, it flashes the parking lights during the remote start operation. The car runs for 15 minutes and the parking lights just blink, blink, blink, blink, etc...
Yes it is the parking lights, not the hazards.

Does anyone happen to know if there is a way to make this think keep the parking lights on constantly for the duration of the timer, instead of the flashing? The interior lights flash as well and I do not feel like replacing bulbs anytime soon...

Second, It only runs for 15 minutes. It shows online that there are other longer time frames to run the vehicle, I can't seem to get it to select those. (Thats not enough time for the vehicle to start defrosting when it gets cold. It does a little bit, but then shuts off before it gets a chance to do anything after it gets somewhat warm).

Help is much appreciated.
This is my first unit, I figured I should start with this before I wire up a 200 dollar alarm and start etc, into my show car.

Google ready remote for support, download the install guide.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The 24923 is different from the 24926. 

The 24923 has 5 small loops of wire coming out one side of the brain that are used to set certain
options like double unlock or .8 or 3.5 second lock pulse, etc.  These are basically the only option
choices available with this unit, aside from Tach / Tachless mode.  The Parking Lights can not be
set to "on steady".   The remote start run time is set to a fixed 12 minutes and can not be changed.

The 24926 is a more sophisticated unit.  It has actual feature / option programming available and
you can select 15 or 30 minute remote start run time.

My experience with the older Ready Remote 24923's was not real pleasant and IMHO a much better
unit can be found for around $50. 

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Soldering is fun!

howie ll wrote:

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Google ready remote for support, download the install guide.

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I have already done that. The online manuals are all different of the 3 versions i have found for my device, none of which are like what was in the box itself. and i have not tried all procedures yet, but non of what i tried so far works.

kreg357 wrote:

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The 24923 is different from the 24926.

The 24923 has 5 small loops of wire coming out one side of the brain that are used to set certain
options like double unlock or .8 or 3.5 second lock pulse, etc. These are basically the only option
choices available with this unit, aside from Tach / Tachless mode. The Parking Lights can not be
set to "on steady".   The remote start run time is set to a fixed 12 minutes and can not be changed.

The 24926 is a more sophisticated unit. It has actual feature / option programming available and
you can select 15 or 30 minute remote start run time.

My experience with the older Ready Remote 24923's was not real pleasant and IMHO a much better
unit can be found for around $50.

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Yah, mine has 5 wire loops coming out the side of it.
What is the little red 10 amp fuse that is used as a jumper? every manual i have read tells a different story for what it does and what position is what.
One of the manuals online says that it is flash/solid for lights, and another says something else, i forget now.

I am afraid to move it as I do not know what its real function is.


I bought the thing for 25 dollars at a flea market. It was cheap so I decided to but it and see what happens, the car is old anyways.
I am mainly tired of not having a remote start is all.

Also, The pink accessory wire i was planning to run a relay to turn on a fused 12 volt output to the lights during remote start to fix the flashing if the box is incapable of doing it.
I have no idea why they make the lights flash, its just stupid in my opinion. and it would have cost them less to just keep the lights on. lol

Also, The directions that came with it says that there are several programmable output signal wires and functions, more than the 5 loop wires to cut can account for.

one of them is the second accessory wire, pink/white, 30 amp capable.
Its default off, i still can not figure out how to turn the darn thing on. It would be nice if I could, I would just set that to output to the parking lights, or maybe the radio, idk yet.

I uploaded the older 24923 Install guide a while ago.  Not sure if you found it or if it matches your system.
Here is a link :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1010

I believe that 10 Amp jumper / fuse selects the Parking Light output polarity.

Using the Accessory output from the R/S to turn on the Parking light will work if isolated from the vehicles
accessory wire but you will not get any flashes with a Lock or Unlock command.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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I uploaded the older 24923 Install guide a while ago.  Not sure if you found it or if it matches your system.
Here is a link :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1010

I believe that 10 Amp jumper / fuse selects the Parking Light output polarity.

Using the Accessory output from the R/S to turn on the Parking light will work if isolated from the vehicles
accessory wire but you will not get any flashes with a Lock or Unlock command.

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Thanks, I have been looking around all I could. That is how I found this forum to begin with.

I have not seen the previous upload until now. Never came up when looking. I will check it out right after posting this and play with it a while to see what i can accomplish.

I could still achieve the isolated parking lights on and maintain the flash output. I just have to create a relay setup and isolate the circuits from eachother. 1 relay would work in parallel with the existing parking light switch and flash output that already in parallel.

How would it select parking light polarity?
Is it the difference between switching a supply versus switching the ground?

If I can get the second accessory wire to output properly, then I would not have to include a relay. It says its programmable, but I have yet to find the on switch. pink/white 30 amp capable.

There is a little sliding door on the side of the brain with a jumper inside for Parking Light polarity selection.  The install
guide does show how to wire relays for additional isolated Accessory outputs.

The thick Pink/White is a non-selectable Ignition2 only output.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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There is a little sliding door on the side of the brain with a jumper inside for Parking Light polarity selection.  The install
guide does show how to wire relays for additional isolated Accessory outputs.

The thick Pink/White is a non-selectable Ignition2 only output.

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Yah I have been all over this unit.
I can not achieve anything else. I went over everything from every version of book for it. My book says its a programmable ignition, ch3. I have never been able to activate it.
It does not matter, Its just a trial run to see if I'd like the idea of remote start and all the fun button controls.

I was planning on just creating a simple logic gate to let the exterior lights flash like normal, and isolate the interior lights.

Only thing is I'm thinking its all in the switch so I have to check it out later in the shop manual. Thanks for all the help, a lot of questions were answered.
The company could have done a better job on the device as well as the directions, but this is what there is...


Have you ever tried the timer function to run the car 12 minutes at the start of each hour for 6 hours?
I'm just curious, I don't have the time to watch it work.
Have you ever had to use the timer function?

Also, Trunk channel 2 is not activating, or so it seems, the buttons are lock and * at the same time, right? I get No response...

I tried a few of these at a customers request.  It does have built in relays for the door
locks, which is nice for certain vehicles.  While it has limited outputs / features, they
do work OK on some vehicles.

The trunk release is Lock & * at the same time.  I did get that to work OK.  The simultaneous
press was pretty critical, if I remember correctly. 

I never tried the 6 hour timer mode. 

The main problems with the unit was short range, a Tach mode that wouldn't learn weak
signals and a Tachless mode that didn't like a vehicle that delayed the alternator output
after start-up ( some Fords ).  That, plus the very limited options made the "low price"
loose out to a slightly more expensive system with newer technology.

You will probably spend a bit in relays, parts and time to get rid of the parking light flash.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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I tried a few of these at a customers request.  It does have built in relays for the door
locks, which is nice for certain vehicles.  While it has limited outputs / features, they
do work OK on some vehicles.

The trunk release is Lock & * at the same time.  I did get that to work OK.  The simultaneous
press was pretty critical, if I remember correctly. 

I never tried the 6 hour timer mode. 

The main problems with the unit was short range, a Tach mode that wouldn't learn weak
signals and a Tachless mode that didn't like a vehicle that delayed the alternator output
after start-up ( some Fords ).  That, plus the very limited options made the "low price"
loose out to a slightly more expensive system with newer technology.

You will probably spend a bit in relays, parts and time to get rid of the parking light flash.

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I fixed the parking light flash yesterday.
Only used one relay.
I did not make them stay solid. I made it so the exterior flashes and the interior only comes on with the switch, and when the interior comes on, so does the exterior, solid.

For the trunk, I am getting an output finally, turns out it takes a couple seconds for trunk, its working now. But it does not flash lights, which is okay i guess. Have to press correctly and hold.

It was only 25 dollars, the car is 23 years old. I figured it was worth the risk to play with.
I know its not a top line unit, but whoever designed it was lacking common sense in some areas.

I got the Tach mode to function correctly when i first installed it, piece of cake.
But i can see how a weak signal and delayed alternator output can be an issue.

As for short range, I'm easily getting a 100-200 foot distance with a new battery in the remote. That seems more than enough.

My only real complaint is the run time is limited to 12 minutes.
It should have been at least 15. Preferably 25.
I sometimes have to remote start a second time, and the car needs to be revved a little once a little bit warm and restarted or else it will start thumping like a drag car. Which is bad because that fouls the plugs.

Door lock/unlock works great, aside from my car having old weak solenoids. But that is an easy fix.

All in all, It was worth 25 dollars to me. I would not have ever paid its original listed price of 95, thats theft for a unit this cheap.
At most I would have paid 30. But at that price, I can find a way better unit for around 50. (But it was just to try, so I went with it seeing as it was mostly for fun).

As a basic R/S w/keyless system, it's not a bad unit, just has some limitations.  It was pretty "state of the art" when first marketed.  Properly installed ( solder connections, etc ), it will last for years.

Good job on the install and good luck with your new toy.  

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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As a basic R/S w/keyless system, it's not a bad unit, just has some limitations.  It was pretty "state of the art" when first marketed.  Properly installed ( solder connections, etc ), it will last for years.

Good job on the install and good luck with your new toy.  

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Thanks. I'm already having some fun with it.
When I go to my car, I'm at a university, I walk slow, so knowing the range, I remote start the car. Its fun watching people sit there thinking the car will drive itself out of the spot. They always leave before I get there when they realize. :P

I'd use the timer on the very cold days, but the problem I do not want to risk is the vehicle starting up on its own, and somewhere along the way a cop finds out the car is automatically running on its own.
Even though there is no key in the ignition and the vehicle is parked (Complying with all laws), Its not being watched so a cop may warp the truth and give a ticket.

I agree, the unit works very good, despite its lack of ability if a few places. I plan to keep it as long as it keeps working.
The only issue I face is that it only has 1 remote, and another remote is 40 dollars, which makes no sense considering I can buy a second unit with remote for 25 dollars. lol

I am actually planning to open up the box itself to see if the remote start run timer is adjustable at all.
I'm hoping that there is a counter that is controlled by analog means that I can turn a variable resistor or something to adjust it longer.
But if not, and its a digital microchip counter, then I'll just leave it be.
Unless it is a solid sate analog counter for a timer, then I can find a resistor that controlls its counting speed, unsolder it, then place a different resistor or variable resistor that I can turn to adjust the remote start run time with a dial as desired.

There are still possibilities, I just need to find the time to open the box and look inside.
I don't suppose anyone on the forums has the schematic for the inside of the box?
(The inner workings, not the already given external interface schematic).

Yes, some states have "un-attended idling" laws or laws that prohibit periods longer
than 4 or 5 minutes. 

I believe you can find additional remotes on EBay for around $10.  Go by the FCC ID
number on the back of the remote.  ( That was the other issue I had with them, most
R/S systems include two FOB's. )

Don't have a schematic for the 24923 PCB, so not sure how they get the 12 minute run
time.  Two things you might try.  This unit does have a PitStop mode so it might also allow
a run time extension.  Test the run time to verify it is 12 minutes.  Then do a remote start
and at the ten minute mark, press the Start button again.  See if the car responds and then
continues to run for another 12 minutes from that point.   This unit also has a (-) Activation
Input.  Two (-) pulses within 3 seconds on this wire will initial a remote start.  You could find
a way to use the RAP shutdown pulse to trigger a circuit that would supply the (-) Activation
Input wire with a double pulse.  This would restart the car 10 seconds after the 12 minute run
time expired ( and create a perpetual R/S system, so include an OFF switch for this double pulse
circuit for times you don't want this feature...     )

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Soldering is fun!