2005 corolla, parking lights

I am installing an Omega AL-100F car alarm into my 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS.  The car has existing factory keyless entry (no factory alarm).

My question is about the Parking Lights.  I see the Omega AL-100F has a "+ Parking Light Output" and I have found in my car where it can take a + or - (two different locations).  I hooked up to the - input by mistake, and I could have sworn that it worked, but when I permanently connected the wires, it no longer works.  I cannot hook up to the + input either.

Do you think I damaged my Omega AL-100F?  I'm thinking I did, and I can live with that.  I took a + output and pluged into a - input.  Is that escentially a short circuit like connecting the + and - of the battery terminals?

If I did damage my Omega AL-100F, I'm thinking I can take the optional Siren output + constant and try to find something that will turn that into a + pulse for the lights.  However, the wire for the lights had a 10 amp fuse on it.  Should I NOT use the Siren wire and some sort of adapter that will turn the + constant into a + pulse for the lights for when the alarm is going off?  If I can use it, should I also use a 10 amp fuse there?

Please let me know if I am not clear enough about something, and THANKS!!!

Here is the info on that car:
Parking Lights+      green      +      driver kick, harness to rear
Parking Lights-      GREEN / WHITE      -      headlight switch
Notes: CAUTION: If the Parking Lights (-) circuit is interfaced with incorrectly, it will damage the vehicle DRL module. Use of the Parking Lights (+) circuit is recommended.

DO NOT USE THE (-) CONNECTION unless you plan on isolating it with a relay. The + connection is your better choice. If you connected it to the + output of the Omega than you most likely either killed the Omega output or possibly damaged your factory switch / DRL module. The only way to know for sure is to test it with a meter and see if you are getting 12volts out of the Omega. But before you do that, test all aspects of your factory switch and make sure you did not already damage it. It is a VERY bad practice to connect anything without testing first... and you may have just learned that the hard way.

So in short, test your switch first (all aspects of it). If it is working properly then test the output from the Omega and see if you are getting any voltage from it when you should (temporary when locking / unlocking, and either on constant or flashing when remote started depending on programming). If you by chance still have an output (you got extremely lucky) then test for the + light connection in the vehicle and connect it to that wire.

If you did damage the Omega, then you are pretty much SOL for parking lights. By connecting it to the siren, the lights will just come on and stay on ONLY when the alarm is going off. To wire it up any other way will require additional relays and other components that, quite frankly (not trying to be mean here, just speaking the truth) you probably should not mess around with in fear of causing further damage.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

And to add to that, PLEASE tell me you tested every one of the other factory wires before making any connections. If not you may be in for many other issues. If you did not test anything, then immediately stop, go back, and test everything before using the alarm. One incorrect connection can cause thousands of dollars in damage to the vehicle.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

It only takes a minute to test the output of the alarm and know right away if it is bad or not. I would think it would have blown the fuse before damaging anything internal. Do you have factory daytime running lights? If so you may want to make sure they are working correctly since that is the module that would have been damaged.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Kenny,

I have my Lock and Unlock Sense wires plugged in (as well as the Starter Interupt wires, ground, etc...).  However, I do NOT have my Lock and Unlock Triggers plugged in where the Omega AL-100F would trigger the doors to Lock when I start the car (I believe 0.5 seconds after it starts) and to Unlock when I turn off the car.  Those are my last wires to hook up...then my Window Roll-Up wires which I'm good on.  I found the 3 other windows in the kick panel and I guess I'll have to go to the door switch for the driver window.

Where should I hook the Trigger wires up?

Also, as a sanity check, where should I have hooked up for the Lock and Unlock Sense wires?  I certainly tested those, and the alarm works for every feature so far (except my Parking Lights LOL).

Again, THANKS!!!

Here is the information for the factory lock and unlock wires:
Power Lock      green      -      driver kick, 10 pin plug
Notes: Meter these wires while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock      blue / YELLOW (double pulse)      -      driver kick, 10 pin plug
Notes: Meter these wires while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Can also use the passenger door key cylinder wire for unlock, which only requires a single pulse. It is blue/black (-) in the passenger kick in a 10 pin plug.

I am not familiar with that unit at all so I have no idea how it is supposed to connect. With a normal alarm / remote start system you would just connect the (-) lock and unlock outputs directly to the factory wires... not sure how that model works though...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

According to the manual on this unit, it has a red connector that is used for door lock/unlock.  Green (-) to Green (-) on car for lock, and Blue (-) to Blue / YELLOW (-) on car for unlock.

DO TEST, before connect as posted by offroadzj.

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they alarm module should have been protected by the 10A fuse if you connected it to the negative wire. Have you checked the fuse?

When hooking up the lock sense wire, use the Type #5 diagram for your vehicle.

AL100F.......Function..........Vehicle Wire.......Location
Pink.........All Lock..........Blue...............Either kick panel
Brown........All Unlock........Red................Passenger kick panel
Gray.........Driver Unlock.....Red................Driver kick panel
White........Lock Override.....Ground
Brown........Unlock Override...No connection
Blue.........Arm Pass-Thru.....No connection
Green........Disarm Pass-Thru..No connection

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

Thanks to everyone for the tips.  I am using Type 5 for my alarm, so I'm glad to see that matches.

I looked at the fuse and it looked good visually.  I will take the fuse out and look for a +12V where the fuse plugs into the wire coming off my alarm + output for the Parking Lights.

I will not be able to do this until this weekend, so I'll report back as soon as I try those things.

THANKS!!!

Okay, I have everything installed and working with a few minor issues.

This one cannot be helped with my car and this particular alarm.  My alarm has a feature where it turned the parking lights on for 60 seconds when you disarm the alarm...I guess so you can see your car when you unlock it and wak up to it.  Anyway, when I open the door, the car has the high-pitched continuous beep like I left the headlights (or Parking Lights) on.  It's the alarm triggering the lights for the 60 seconds so my car will beep every time I enter the vehicle until I close the door, turn on the ignition, or wait the full 60 seconds.  Oh well, I can deal with that.

I still have a question on this issue...

Fo the Door Open Tigger, I am using the RED / White wire in the Dome Light switch on the dash.  My alarm can lock all the doors when I turn the ignition On, but it doesn't do it because my Dome Light stays on for 15 seconds after I enter the vehicle.  If I wait the 15 seconds and turn the car on, it does lock all the doors.  It behaves this way whether I have the Dome Light set to On or Off...I have to wait the 15 seconds.  So, basically, I would get in my car and start the car, but the doors don't lock making the feature unusable.

Is there another location where I can monitor if any of the doora are open?  What about monitoring the light on the Instrument panel?

THANKS!!!

Oh yeah, my Parking Lights now work.  The fuse had blown out.

I was just thinking (and more hoping) I could use a Diode to keep my car (2005 Toyota Corolla XRS) from beeping when my alarm (Omega AL-100F) turned on the Parking Lights for 60 seconds when I disarm the alarm.  I was hoping a Diode would block the signal from coming back toward the headlight switch.

Does anyone have any suggestions there?

THANKS!!!

Where are you getting the parking light wire? If you get it from the switch it simulates you turning them on, thus making the buzzer sound. try using a positive light wire on the bulb circuit itself( DKP, green, find the wire running to the rear park lights) and it probably will stop. As for the door trigger, you could always grab the 4 door pin wires and isolate them. This trigger is instant, no delay...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I'm using the Green + Parking Light Wire in the driver kick panel that is in the wire bundle running to the rear of the car.  I will try a Diode that I'm hoping will block the signal from making the beep.  I am concerned this will also affect the front Parking Lights from coming on at all.  I'll let everyone know how it goes there.

I saw another post that says I can use a RED / Yellow wire for the Door Open trigger.  I'll check that out and let everyone know for that one too.

What exactly is your plan with the diode? I don't see how a diode would change anything unless you plan on cutting your factory wire. If that is the case, what size diode are you planning on using? I think a relay would be better for what you are trying to do... but even then I don't think it will work.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yea i agree a diode isn't gonna do you any good because it will stop voltage from getting to the front parking lights. I'm surprised that you have the problem you have honestly, but you may have to live with it...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Yeah.  I agree that the Diode approach will most likely not work.

I was just hoping someone has run into this before...and had a solution too.

Is it common for an alarm to turn the Parking Lights on for a full 60 seconds solid when first disarming the alarm?  I guess it's just to help light your way as you walk to your car at night or to put you in more obvious view.

I've only installed one alarm and two keyless entry systems before this alarm (all Toyotas with ignition T-harnesses to help).  So, I guess I've done 4 installs total now.  The keyless entry systems didn't turn on the parking lights, and my other car didn't beep if the parking lights were on while the driver door was open and the key out of the ignition.

I may check out a few configurations with a Diode and let everyone know the behavior.  The behavior will at least give me more insight on how it's wired from the factory.

Are you sure you are using the parking light output and not the dome light output? The domelight does normally stay on for 60 seconds or so on disarm... parking lights don't normally... but anything is possible.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yes.  I am 100% sure I'm using the Parking Light output and not the dome light output.  My alarm doesn't have a dome light output.  And, my alarm manual says that it turned the Parking Lights on for 60 seconds as a feature (that can't be turned off).

Success!!! ...for the door locks as soon as I turn the ignition On...

The recommended RED / White wire for the Door Trigger has a 15 second delay on it related to the Dome Light even if the Dome Light is in the Off position.  My doors would not lock when I turned the ignition On because the alarm thought one of the doors was open (the alarm won't lock the doors if a door is still open).  The 15 second delay made the feature of locking the doors not practically functional.

I am now hooked into the RED / Yellow wire that is in the same rear body harness where the Green + Parking Light wire is.  The RED / Yellow wire doesn't have a 15 second delay for the Door Trigger, so I get in, close the door, and start the car and the alarm locks the doors automatically.

The Parking Lights still make my internal beep constant when I first enter the vehicle through the driver door.  I have not messed with a Diode at all yet for the Parking Lights.  I may do that if it drives me crazy, but I'll probably leave it the way it is because I don't think it'll work and nobody else did either.

Now I have to hook up my 4-window roll up module.  I'm going to wait for the weekend...or some weekend soon.  I still have the factory speakers which are riveted to the door instead of screwed, so it'll be hard for me to get some wires to the driver door window controls.  I may hook up the other three doors in the driver kick panel one day and do the driver door a different day where running those wires is the only task.

THANKS for all the feedback and help!!!

UPDATE:  I believe I have found a way to make my car stop beeping at me when I first enter the vehicle through the driver's door.  My alarm turns on the Parking lights for a solid on (not flashing) for 60 seconds when I first disarm the alarm.

I think this will work...

I've bought a DEI 611T (I believe is just like a DEI 528T, but with a longer delay and other options too).

I will trigger the DEI 611T with the disarm of the alarm and delay the parking light output from the alarm for 61 seconds (I hope I can fine tune it that closely).  My parking lights may come on for a split second, but my driver door would still be closed at that point.  I'm hoping I can just open the driver door and have no beeps!!!

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ANOTHER UPDATE:  I think I can use a DEI 528T to delay the horn honk output of the alarm also triggered off the alarm disarm.  That way, when I get in and close the driver door (last door closed really), the horn normally honks warning me that my alarm is going to auto-lock and arm in 30 seconds.  I like the feature, so I'll delay the horn honk for a full 60 seconds to allow me time to get all my stuff in the car and close the drivr door.  If I do go past the 60 seconds when getting my stuff in the car, I can either unlock again to maybe re-trigger the delay or I can just hear 1 horn honk when I close the door in those rare cases when it takes me more than 60 seconds to close the last door.

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I'll share the results soon...

UPDATE #1 worked to stop my car from beeping at me because my car believes I left my headlights on when it's really the alarm turning them on for a solid on for 60 seconds.

The 611T 's green wire monitors the disarm trigger wire of the alarm (unlock from keyless entry).

The Black is ground.

The Red is +12 V.

The yellow is toward the parking lights + for the car.

The brown is toward the parking light + output from the alarm (goes +12 V only when the alarm is trying to turn on the parking lights.)

I have it set for normally closed, timer mode (not latch mode).

I'm not going to do UPDATE #2 from above for the horn honking because it's not a full fix and I've also changed it so the doors will not auto-lock and arm the alarm.  I find I need more time when taking mutilpe trips to the car, and I don't want to have to re-unlock each time especially if I am carrying things to the car.