Printer Friendly Forum Posts - did i damage my remote start?

So this was my first install and really had no clue to what I was doing. Basically though, I am wondering if I damaged my trunk release output? I originally had the -200mA trigger from the alarm hooked up to the +12v for the trunk. Of course it didn't work and have since tried connecting a relay. I have connected 30 and 86 to +12v and 85 the -200mA from the alarm and 87 to the trunk wire. I used a multimeter and have detected a small positive voltage when I press the trunk button on the remote to see if there is something there but when all is said and done, the relay doesn't work. When I have it wired up to the relay, I get +12v at all the terminals except 87. I wouldn't think I should get that at 85. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

A little more information just in case. Its a Viper 4103 on a 98 mustang.

Test the RED / white from the Viper, it should go to NEG (-) when you press and hold the trunk release button for about 2 seconds.
You will destroy the R/S aux circuits unless you follow this diagram:-
Z18_trunk_release.bmp
The lack of a diode is why you see 12 volts at 85.
The diode is absolutely mandatory.
Also known as a back EMF quenching diode.
when a relay shuts down the coil "spikes" an EMF or EMP of about 200 volts.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So with the positive side of the multimeter connected to the wire and the other side grounded, when I hold AUX down, I get about +.5-1v coming out of the remote start unit. I assume it is damaged then?

Also, if I were to get another unit, would the diode need to be part of the relay I assume? If so, how does this one look?

https://www./itm/Automotive-Relay-12V-40Amp-5-Pin-Changover-Diode-Genuine-Tyco-TE-Part-/140938481507#vi-content

I couldn't really find any otherwise. I appreciate all the help.

https://www./itm/Automotive-Relay-12V-40Amp-5-Pin-Changover-Diode-Genuine-Tyco-TE-Part-/140938481507#vi-content

Forgot to make it a link for easier access.

I guess it doesn't like ebay listings....

This is the listing description.

Automotive Relay 12VDC 40 Amp 5 Pin Changeover With Diode

This is a genuine Tyco part. Not a cheap imitation.

Product information:

For sale is a Standard Mini ISO Relay 12VDC coil, 40Amp, Single Pole Changeover Contact

With Protection Diode Across The Coil

This relay fits into standard relay base using 6.35mm terminals.

Coil data

Nominal voltage 12VDC

Operate voltage 7.8VDC

Release voltage 1.2VDC

Coil resistance 90Ω +/-10%

Ambient temperature -40to +85 °C

Terminals: Brass Unplated

Yes that's the type, you MUST get a diode, Radio Shack etc. and use it.
No you're testing is wrong, POS (red) probe to a 12V+ constant, black to RED / white.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Solder the diode across the terminal bases, band to 86.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok. I want to say thank you again and sorry for being so ignorant on this subject.

So I wired it up and soldered the diode and it's not working. I'm thinking I damaged the remote start unit. I tested the alarm out wire with a multimeter. With the wire connected to the relay, the positive side of the multimeter on +12v and the negative to the wire, I get 0v and then after pressing the button, I get about +.5v.

With the wire not connected to the relay and just connected to the negative side of the multimeter, with the positive side on +12v, I get 0v until after pressing the button, then I get +12v.

Whats the verdict? Am I still doing something wrong?

"With the wire not connected to the relay and just connected to the negative side of the multimeter, with the positive side on +12v, I get 0v until after pressing the button, then I get +12v".
That reading would be correct after about 2 seconds until releasing the aux. so back to your relay wiring.
Incorrectly wired?
Diode wrong way round?
Wire up relay and test the output at 30, should be 12V+ from 0v.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So, I didn't have a fuse inline going directly to the relay, I was thinking there was probably a fuse that was further up line from the line I was grabbing the +12v from. Anyway, I added a 15A fuse inline and retried. No luck. Pretty much same readings. 0v at 30. With positive on +12v and negative on 85, goes from 0 to about +.25v. Stripe on diode toward 86.

Did I damage the relay beforehand? Is that possible and is why it's not working?

So, I tested the relay by applying 12v to 86 and then grounding 85. I can hear it clicking.

Testing the alarm with 12v to the positive side of the multimeter and the negative side to the trunk wire goes from 0v to 12v so it seems like that the remote start should be working because its grounding if I am getting that reading. I just have no clue why its not working. I don't hear the relay clicking when it's all connected up.

Did I possibly fry the diode? Would that cause the relay to not work, even with no load on it? Maybe Ill try putting a new one on.

If you followed the diagram you will have 12V+ at 87 and 86, break the (+) trunk release motor wire. Switch side to 87a trunk side to 30 and 85 will give you 12V+ when red probe from your meter goes to 86 or 87 and black probe to 85.
If that's so either relay or diode is faulty.
Does the relay click will you operate the trunk release via the remote?
BTW use a decent 12V test light from Snap-On, MAC or Sears for this, much faster to see what's going on.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

If you followed the diagram you will have 12V+ at 87 and 86, break the (+) trunk release motor wire. Switch side to 87a trunk side to 30 and 85 will give you 12V+ when red probe from your meter goes to 86 or 87 and black probe to 85.
If that's so either relay or diode is faulty.
Does the relay click will you operate the trunk release via the remote?
BTW use a decent 12V test light from Snap-On, MAC or Sears for this, much faster to see what's going on.

Before I had only a 4 connection relay and fearing I may have fried the diode when soldering, I ordered a 5 connection relay with diode already part of it. I connected everything like you said/ like the diagram and it still doesn't work. The relay will work when I have 12v on 86 and I ground 85 manually, just not with the wire from the R/S. The Remote start has to be bad, I've tried everything. I had to fry it when I connected it directly to the trunk output wire and then operated the trunk switch. It's the only possible explanation I'd imagine now.

You might well have fried the circuit that feeds all of the aux outputs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I ordered a new one. Will post when I try it out. Guess I'll try and sell the old one to someone that doesn't need those circuits.

husyor, what part of MO are you in?

anywhere near KC?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I got it working, YEAH! It was the alarm itself. I guess I had fried it when I wired it up wrong. I'm in St. Louis.

New problem. I got a 556uw and got it all wired up. At first,it wasnt starting. So I adjusted the antenna a little and now it DINGS like the key is in the ignition but when I try to remote start it, it wont start and the THEFT light blinks like the key is not there.

This is using the standard installation. They have two alternate installations, but not sure which to do or I'm even wondering if these will work since maybe there is some type of sensor that detects a key in the ignition in general?

A few thoughts :

If you hold a working ignition key next to the ignition switch ( keyhead at key slot ) , does the
remote starter work?

Besides the 556UW antenna, there are only three wires to connect. Red goes to +12V constant,
Black to chassis ground and the Blue to the 4103 Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire.

Make sure the keyhead is positioned / centered in the 556UW internal coil and can not shift or move.

The jumper set at Mode 2 should work but you can also move it to the other setting and
try it that way.

The antenna should be placed over the ignition cylinder, outer side of the PATS pickup antenna.
If you have the older type that you must wrap, try to get at least 4 of 5 loops.

Personally. I would save the $18 dollars on the 556UW, keep the key on my key ring and use
a Directed 1100F bypass module for $15.

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Soldering is fun!

I'm dumb. I got it working. I forgot to plug the damn thing up lol.
As to the 1100f and the 556uw, I had no clue what to use. I got looking on some different pages and from what I could see, that the 556uw was my only option. As I said, this was my first install. Thanks again to everyone for all the help!

The last problem I have now is that the carwash place sucked up my programming wire....