2010 acura tsx viper 4704

I am doing my first remote starter install and I would like someone to take a look at my wiring plan. I am comfortable soldering and pulling the car apart, my only real concern is what the purpose of the wires are and how I am interpreting the instructions. I have the wiring diagram below, I prioritized information first on the Viper wiring, then put the information on the iDataLink then the TSX has the least amount of information on it. If anyone has any information, suggestions or thinks I should use different equipment let me know.

What gauge wire should I use for the install? Keep in mind I will be using a common 12V and ground, also I will be using my own wire and relay for the starter.

All relays have N400X diode between 85 and 86, stripe towards positive 86.

2010 Acura TSX Wiring
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~122599

Viper 4704 manual
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CDIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.12voltdistributors.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F09%2FViper_4704V_Installation_Guide.pdf&ei=QUaMUYeYLIONygHVxYDABg&usg=AFQjCNGtTXubc4jN4DNGyae3aUYKYn8LZw&sig2=rZIgX4ZdYtsDIYyFCb2Z_A&bvm=bv.46340616,d.aWc

iDataLink ADS-AL CA
https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA3/ADS-AL(DL)-HA3-EN_20130305.pdf


TSX
IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 2, 12V Constant, 50 amp:
Inline 50 amp fuse then use for all 12V
Can I use this for all 12V in the install?

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 1, YELLOW (+), STARTER:
Cut wire, key side to 87a, car side to 30

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 5, BLUE (+), IGNITION 1:
To Viper

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 3, ORANGE (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1:
To viper

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4, RED (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2:
To viper with flex relay

Immobilizer , pin 2,,Ignition +:
To iDataLink

Immobilizer , pin 3,Dark Blue,CAN low:
To iDataLink

Immobilizer , pin 4,Pink,CAN high:
To iDataLink

Immobilizer , pin 6,Green,Immobilizer Data:
To iDataLink

HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11, GRAY (-), PARKING LIGHTS ( - ):
To viper

Drivers dash fuse box, 33 pin plug, pin 23, Lt Green, Horn:
To viper

Drives fuse box, 20 pin plug, pin 3, Lt Green, Trunk:
To Trunk relay, 30

Create a ground wire with a bolt



Viper 4704
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1,RED,(+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT:
To 12V

H1/2,BLACK,(-) CHASSIS GROUND:
To: Ground

H1/3,BROWN,(-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT:
To Drivers dash fuse box, 33 pin plug, pin 23,Lt Green

H1/4,WHITE/ BROWN,LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relayH1/:

H1/5,WHITE,PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY:
To HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11,GRAY (-),PARKING LIGHTS ( - )

H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:
Starter relay 85



Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1,PNK/WHITE,(-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT:

H2/2,BLACK/ WHITE,(-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT:
To iDataLink 10/9, Green, E-Brake Status - Output

H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT:
To defog relay, pin 85
Does this latch or pulse?

H2/4,GREEN/ BLACK ,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/4,Brown,Disarm - input

H2/5,RED / WHITE,(-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT:
To Trunk relay, pin 85

H2/6,GREEN,(-) DOOR INPUT*:
To iDataLink 3/2,Yellow/Black, Door Status - Output
Is iDataLink NC or NO?

H2/7,BLACK / YELLOW,(-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT:

H2/8,EMPTY,------------------------------------:

H2/9,DARK BLUE,(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 4/1,Blue/White, GWR - input
Does this ground before ignition? What is menu 3/11 saying? I copied it below the wiring diagrams.

H2/10,PINK,(-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT:

H2/11,WHITE/ BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT:

H2/12,VIOLET,(+) DOOR INPUT:

H2/13,WHITE/ VIOLET,(-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT:

H2/14,VIOLET/BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT:

H2/15,ORANGE / BLACK,(-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT:

H2/16,BROWN,(+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT:
To iDataLink 6/2,Grey/White, Brake + Output

H2/17,GRAY,(-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO:
To iDataLink,3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output
Should this be NC or NO for iDataLink?

H2/18,VIOLET / YELLOW,(-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT:
Clutch relay, pin 85

H2/19,BLUE**,FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity):

H2/20,GRAY/BLACK ,(-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT:

H2/21,WHITE/ BLUE,ACTIVATION INPUT:

H2/22,ORANGE,(-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT:

H2/23,VIOLET/WHITE,TACHOMETER INPUT:
To iDataLink 10/10,PURPLE / White, Tach (AC) - Output:

H2/24,GREEN / WHITE,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/1,GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input
Not confident I need to do this



Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1,PINK,(+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 5,BLUE (+) ,IGNITION 1

H3/2,RED / WHITE,+12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT:
To 12V

H3/3,ORANGE,(+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 3 ,ORANGE (+) , ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1

H3/4,VIOLET,(+) STARTER OUTPUT:
To Starter relay, car side, pin 30

H3/5,RED,+12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT:
To 12V

H3/6,PINK/WHITE,IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT:
To IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4 ,RED (+) , ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2
Program flex relay to close with accessory

H3/7,PINK/BLACK,FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY:

H3/8,RED / BLACK,+12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT:
To 12V



Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1,BLUE,(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/2,Blue/Black,Unlock - input

2,EMPTY,NOT USED:

3,GREEN ,(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/1, GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input



iDataLink (counterclockwise, top left corner)
4/1,Blue/White,GWR - input:
To Viper, H2/9, Status Output
Is this right? The iDataLink needs ground before ignition.

4/2

4/3,Black,Ground:
To Ground

4/4,Red,12V+:
12V

10/1,GREEN/ Black,Lock/Arm - input:
To Viper

10/2,Blue/Black,Unlock - input:
To Viper

10/3,RED / White,Trunk - input

10/4,Brown,Disarm - input
To Viper

10/5,Purple / YELLOW,Left Sliding Door - Input:

10/6,PURPLE / Black,2 Possible Applications:

10/7

10/8,BLACK/ White,Starter + input:
To Starter relay, car side, pin 30

10/9,Green,E-Brake Status - Output:
To Viper

10/10,PURPLE / White,Tach (AC) - Output:
To Viper

6/1:

6/2,Grey/White,Brake + Output:
To Viper

6/3:

6/4:

6/5:

6/6:

7/1,Pink,Ignition + input:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 2,,Ignition +

7/2:

7/3:

7/4:

7/5,ORANGE / Black,Key data:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 6,Green,Immobilizer Data

7/6,BROWN / Yellow,CanL:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 3,Dark Blue,CAN low

7/7,BROWN / Red,CanH:
To TSX Immobilizer , pin 4,Pink,CAN high

3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output:
To Viper

3/2,Yellow/Red,Trunk Status - Output:

3/2,Yellow/Black,Door Status - Output:
To Viper

3/1,White,Ground -:
To Ground

3/2:

3/3,WHITE/ Black,Output -:
iDataLink mentions connecting to drivers door pin to turn off headlamp, why? How does it work?



Clutch Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/18,VIOLET / YELLOW,(-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT

86 - Positive:
12V

30 - Common:
Clutch switch

87A - NC:

87 - NO:
Clutch switch
Assuming NO switch



Starter Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

86 - Positive:
To Viper H3/1,PINK,(+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

30 - Common:
Car side starter wire

87A - NC:
Key side starter wire

87 - NO:



Rear Defrost Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

86 - Positive:
12V

30 - Common:
Defrost button

87A - NC:

87 - NO:
Defrost button



Trunk Relay
85 - Negative:
To Viper H2/5,RED / WHITE,(-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT

86 - Positive:
12V

30 - Common:
Ground:
Assuming the wire needs ground, will test

87A - NC:

87 - NO:
To TSX Drivers fuse box, 20 pin plug, pin 3,Lt Green,Trunk


     
I'm also confused about this option in the Viper. It is referring to wire H2/9 but then it is referring to the rear defogger which is H2/3. I would like some guidance on using H2/9, H2/3 and the GWR input on the iDataLink. The iDataLink needs ground when running before the ignition.
11. Status 2 Output (Dark Blue H2/9 wire)
1. Status: the output will activate before the ignition outputs turn on, and de-activate after they turn off
during remote start
2. Latch rear defogger: the output activates 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature is below
55F. It turns off after 10 minutes or upon remote start off
3. Pulse rear defogger: the output activates (for 800mS) 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature
is below 55F.

Wow!  Very good job.    You did your home work on this.

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 2, 12V Constant, 50 amp:
Inline 50 amp fuse then use for all 12V
Can I use this for all 12V in the install?    Yes

IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 5-Pin Plug) Pin 4, RED (+), ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2:
To viper with flex relay      ***Set Viper Flex Relay to ACC2   Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2

HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11, GRAY (-), PARKING LIGHTS ( - ):
To viper    ***Set Viper Jumper/Fuse to (-)

Drives fuse box, 20 pin Lt Green Plug plug, Pink wire @ pin 3, , Trunk:
To Trunk relay, 30          Don't think you will need a relay.

H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:
Starter relay 85    Also see Viper programming Menu 3, Item 13 for Anit-Grind

H2/3,BLUE/WHITE,(-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT:
To defog relay, pin 85
Does this latch or pulse?   See Viper Menu 3. Item 11, Option 2
Rear Defrost  BROWN / WHITE (-) LATCHED  DRIVER FUSE BOX, GREEN 33 PIN CONNECTOR, PIN #6

H2/6,GREEN,(-) DOOR INPUT*:
To iDataLink 3/2,Yellow/Black, Door Status - Output
Is iDataLink NC or NO?    N.O. - just like normal door triggers

H2/9,DARK BLUE,(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 4/1,Blue/White, GWR - input
Does this ground before ignition?    Yes
What is menu 3/11 saying?   Menu 3, Item 11 is for H2/3

H2/17,GRAY,(-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO:
To iDataLink,3/1,Yellow,Hood Status - Output
Should this be NC or NO for iDataLink?   N.O. - just like normal door triggers 
Signal present only if vehicle has factory hood pin.

H2/23,VIOLET/WHITE,TACHOMETER INPUT:
To iDataLink 10/10,PURPLE / White, Tach (AC) - Output:    Yes.  Manual Trans must run in Tach Mode

H2/24,GREEN / WHITE,(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT:
To iDataLink 10/1,GREEN/ Black, Lock/Arm - input
Not confident I need to do this    Correct, not needed.

iDataLink (counterclockwise, top left corner)
4/1,Blue/White,GWR - input:
To Viper, H2/9, Status Output 
The Viper has the coIs this right? The iDataLink needs ground before ignition    The Viper has the correct timing.

Bonus info for Clutch bypass :
Clutch Pedal  RED / GREEN (-) N.O.  CLUTCH SWITCH - YELLOW 2 PIN CONNECTOR PIN #1
If this is a thin wire, you might get away with just running the Vipers (-) 200mA Starter Output wire
directly to this RED / Green wire, no relay needed.

As always use a DMM to test and verify each and every wire.

Verify that the ADS AL CA is flashed with the DL HA3 firmware.  You won't get much help from either
iDatalink or Viper as a DIYer but it looks like you have a good understanding of all that is involved.

Proper planning pays big dividends....  

 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

H1/6,ORANGE,500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT:
Starter relay 85    Also see Viper programming Menu 3, Item 13 for Anit-Grind

---

Thanks for looking it over, I feel much more confident about the install now and am going to start purchasing equipment soon.

I am really confused how the anti grind works. I understand on the 5704 with the starter kill because you are cutting the starter wire and using an internal NC relay. How does the the anti grind interupt the starter circuit?

When I originally did this I was looking at the iDataLink Multi line because it is what came up first on their search. Does it offer any benefits over the Solo line, ADS-DLSL CA2? Both seem to need the same firmware of DL-HA3. If I buy a Solo ADS-DLSL CA2 does it always come with the proper firmware or do I need to makesure it is correct?

You mentioned that I could likely run the trunk and clutch without a relay. I'm nervous just giving it a shot because I don't want to fry the Viper. Is this a valid concern? Could I run the defogger without a relay too?

Any suggestions on gauge of wire? I am concerned with the common 12V and ground. Normally I would just match whatever I am connecting to but I want to have everything purchased before I pull anything open.

Starter Kill and Anti-Grind both work on the same vehicle wire.  Starter Kill prevents the
engine from cranking when the alarm system is armed.  Anti-Grind prevents the engine
from cranking when the remote starter is ON ( the engine is already running ).

As for the iDatalink bypass module, it is an excellent choice.  However, the difficult part
is obtaining one that has been flashed ( loaded ) with the correct / desired firmware.  There
are on-line sellers that will do this for you on request ( and sometimes for an additional
charge ).   Try to get the multi ADS AL CA flashed with the DL HA3 firmware rather than the
Solo module ( same thing but more available / logical ).

Using relays for the trunk, clutch bypass, etc, will not hurt anything.  It would be extra work
and perhaps over-kill but definitely a viable option.

The Vipers' ground wire is adequate.  The White +12V constant wire at the ignition switch
harness is rated at 50A and should be fine for the demands of the 4704 and ADS AL CA.  You
can always run a direct line to the battery but that is a long run that breaches the firewall and
includes additional risks.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

So if I just turn on the anti grind feature it will work how I plan on wiring it up?

On the relays, I mean if I wire up the clutch directly to the viper without a relay and it turns out I should have used a relay would that hurt anything? If I can wire the defogger, clutch and trunk without a relay and I don't need one for the starter that would be nice.

For the negative start output from the viper to the cars clutch wire, you will need to put a diode inline to protect the viper.  the rear defrost signal in the vehicle is negative so that usually means it's just switching the factory relay that's in the fusebox, so basicaly you're relaying a relay.   Like Kreg say it doesn't hurt anything but it's just a little extra work.

-------------
Advanced

I should wire the diode stripe towards the Viper inline right? I'm going to wire the clutch, defogger and trunk direct to the Viper. Should I wire a diode with the trunk, defogger or any of the other connections?

dasbogie wrote:

---

For the negative start output from the viper to the cars clutch wire, you will need to put a diode inline to protect the viper.  the rear defrost signal in the vehicle is negative so that usually means it's just switching the factory relay that's in the fusebox, so basicaly you're relaying a relay.   Like Kreg say it doesn't hurt anything but it's just a little extra work.

---

I cut the Viper's H2/18 wire and soldered a diode inline with the stripe facing the Viper. Before I install it this weekend is this right?

Also any word on if I should do the same on the defogger, trunk, horn or parking lights?

I have all the wires hooked up and triple checked. I am getting a flashing light on the idatalink but the LED on the antenna for the Viper isn't flashing. This leads me to believe the Viper isn't running. I have checked the voltage at the 6 pin main harness connector and it is getting 12 volts like it should be.

Anyone have any ideas for things to try or how to test the Viper unit at all? I'm hoping I didn't get one dead on arrival. I'm guessing it will be a pain to get resolved if so.

A few thoughts :

Triple check your chassis ground wire connection. It should have a soldered-on terminal
ring and be securely fastened to a clean, solid frame ground.

Triple check that the antenna harness is completely seated at both ends.

The antenna light blinks ( blue LEDs ) when the Viper is Locked.

I believe that the newer Viper systems come with the remotes already paired so with everything
connected, a Lock button depress should make the Viper's brain click and the Parking Lights
flash once. Does that happen? If not, you could try pairing the remotes to the Viper.

Did you set the idatalink modules Install Mode ( Standard - 2 blinks ) and lock it in prior to
performing the actual bypass module to vehicle programming?   Did it program / respond
properly? Being as the iDatalink module works hand in hand with the Viper and supplies
many signals and performs several functions, if it is not programmed it will cause problems
that could appear like a Viper issue.

With a manual transmission vehicle, there are several things that must be done prior to attempting
a remote start. The Viper must be in Tach Mode and Tach Learned.   The Door Trigger Input, Brake
Input and NSS to Input to ADS AL CA Emergency Brake Output must be connected and working.
Does anything happen when you try setting Reservation Mode?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I paired the remote again and now the Viper is working just fine. By fine I mean it will honk, flash the parking lights and open the trunk.

The bypass module I can't get to program correctly. Below are the steps I am taking, is there anything I am missing? The store I bought it from said they would flash it but I am wondering if it was flashed to the correct firmware. I never verified which firmware they were flashing it with just that it was the correct car. I am wondering if I am working off instructions for a different firmware or something.

Reset idatalink
-Disconnect all plugs except for the 4 pin black
-Disconnect black 4 pin pulg
-Hold programming button
-Plug black plug in
-The light blinks red quickly
-Release the button
-Plug all other connectors in (I have also tried waiting to do this until after the light starts blinking green below.
-Light goes solid red for a couple seconds
-Light starts blinking green

Program idatalink
-Press button
-double green LED indicating wire to wire mode
-press and hold
-solid green light for 2 seconds
-solid red light for 2 seconds
-slow red blink
-Key in ignition to on position
-Wait and nothing changes, same red blink
-Turned key to off, no change
-Tried pressing unlock on factory fob, no change
-It will stay with this red link with whatever I press or do until I reset the module

I have tried these steps with the drivers door shut and with the door open to the same result.

It sounds like you are following the steps correctly. I do it a little differently. Try this.

Do the Factory Reset procedure but at step 5 wait for the LED to start doing the single flashes.
Press the button once and verify the LED starts doing the double Green flashes. Press and
hold the button . The LED will go solid Green for two seconds and then go out. Release the
button and reconnect all the harnesses. Then continue with the vehicle programming by
inserting the ignition key, switch to ON, etc. If it doesn't follow the guide exactly compare the
LED indication to the Module Diagnostics chart.

The ADS module only has 4 wire connections to the vehicle. Verify them and make sure they
are well soldered and insulated. The wire colors should match the iDatalink wire chart exactly.

It is very rare to get a bad module from iDatalink. It is possible that the shop flashed the wrong
firmware but the only way to tell is to use the ADS USB cable and check it online.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I tried it again that way with no luck.

I reset it. Then I pushed the button until the double green. Then I hold the button until the light goes green for two seconds then goes out. If I keep holding nothing happens but as soon as I release the light turns to red for two seconds then goes to the slowly flashing red. I then connected the cable to the car and nothing changed.

The module diagnostics chart states "Missing/wrong information from firmware or vehicle".

I'm thinking the next step is sourcing a cable from somewhere online and checking the firmware.

The 4 wires to the ignition are soldered and wrapped in electric tape and I have double checked the wires with their diagram and checked the canh, canl and data wires with other charts online. I thought of testing the resistance between the plug at the ignition and the plug at the idatalink to verify the solder connection but I am concerned doing so could hurt the cars computer.

Bummer...

Beware that even with the ADS USB cable, you will have to register and be certified as a 12V Professional by iDatalink to check or download firmware.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I was able to sign up online so hopefully it works out.

I forgot about something else though. The wire labeled as accessory 1, orange, didn't have 12v when the key is turned to accessory only when it was turned to ignition. But the wire went to 0v during crank just like the accessory 2 wire does. Sould I treat this wire as a 2nd accessory or 2nd ignition? It is acting like a combination of both. I hooked it to the flex and I was planning on it triggering with the accessory so it would lose power during crank.

Accessory 2, white, on the other hand has 12v in the on position and the accessory position.

I go by the drop during cranking to classify ignition wires. Set it up as an Accessory wire. It should not have any effect on the bypass programming.

Just for grins, you could try swapping the CanH and CanL wires, but the wire info from iDatalink is always spot-on.

Also double check to ensure that the ADS AL CA Blue/White GWR wire is connected to the Vipers Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output and not the Vipers GWA wire. It should be OK, that's the way you had it listed originally.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

By trigger it with accessory mean just set the flex relay to accessory.

Correct. Set Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I got the cable and sure enough it had the wrong firmware on it, I flashed it to the right firmware and the idatalink programming worked without issue. The only problem I am having now is that the trunk release I hooked up to requires all of the car doors to be unlocked to work so it won't pop the trunk when the car is locked. I did notice that when I press the trunk it does do unlock at the same time but it does it just once and only unlocks the drivers side door. If I press trunk again all doors unlock like progressive unlock and the trunk will open. I am a little confused why it is unlocking any doors during trunk pop though, it should just be disarming the alarm. Maybe that is how the idatalink disarms the alarm by a single unlock?

I noticed the same thing on a Lexus recently. That is a totally different setup. Here is
what I would do / try. Being as the bypass module handles the trunk thru CAN Data and
it can't pop the trunk while the car is remote started, bypass the bypass and connect the
Viper's Trunk Release (-) output directly to the car. Here is the wire info :
Trunk/Hatch Release   Pink (rear handle switch) (-) @ driver dash fuse box, Lt. Green 20 pin plug, pin 3

That way the trunk will release will work all the time and as long as the Viper sends a Disarm
to the iDatalink and the idatalink passes that command to the car thru the CAN Data....

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I actually have it connected to that wire. The problem is that wire goes to the rear handle which only works when all of the doors are unlocked, so pressing the unlock button twice then pressing trunk will pop the trunk.

According to the wiring guide posted in the link below there is a positive trunk motor wire in the fuse box. Do you think I could use that instead with a relay? I am not sure if just pulsing positive to that will work. I would like to know where the wires for the interior trunk release button are run, that button works fine when the doors are locked and if the car is running.

That's what happens when the cars' computer fights you and tries to control things.

Going directly to the trunk lock motor wire will work but I believe that would require a relay with a 5 wire connection.

Not sure on the interior trunk release switch. It might work if it's not a Data type signal.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all of your help during this.

Is it normal for the doors to unlock when the viper sends a disarm? They are on different wires on the idatalink so I thought it would disarm without unlock?

I did stumble upon a problem today. If I unlock the door with the key the Viper still thinks it is locked so my starter kill is still engaged and I can't start the car with my key unless I unlock it with the viper remote. Could be an issue if the viper remote battery dies. I am thinking of hooking the ground side of the starter kill to the ignition status wire instead of ground when armed and keeping the positive on the ignition posiitive wire. That way the starter kill is only engaged when the car is running and the viper's ignition is set to on. That is of course unless you have a better suggestion or see a problem with that.

Unfortunately it's going to be a pain because I decided to unpin the wires I didn't use for a cleaner install. I'll need to bend the pin clip back and put it back in the plug.

That would be a normal action for the vehicle to unlock upon disarm as you are using the UNLOCK button to disarm. And normal if you unlock the vehicle with a key. The Viper brain is still in the Lock/Armed mode. Your key does not send any signal to tell the Viper brain anything has changed.  Keep you remote charged.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

smokeman1 wrote:

---

That would be a normal action for the vehicle to unlock upon disarm as you are using the UNLOCK button to disarm. 

---

I'm referring to when the Viper starts or when it pops the trunk it sends a pulse to the disarm wire. This disarm also unlocks the drivers side door.