02 impreza, factory central lock dead

Ok, so I am working with an 02 Subaru Impreza, that the factory central lock system is non functioning. The fuses are fine and besides that, I haven't found the module itself. I did verify a lock solenoid in the rear hatch when I was in there, so for the sake or argument, Im going to guess the 4 doors have them as well.

SO.. do I mess with trying to fix this? OR
do I find the module, tap into the factory wiring for the locks and drop in an aftermarket keyless system?



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Matt

I'd go with this one:- "OR
Do I find the module, tap into the factory wiring for the locks and drop in an aftermarket keyless system? "
The module is part of the body control module "BIU" located to the left of the steering column.
Low NEG Lock = RED / white (-) BIU, gray 20 pin plug, pin 12.
Low NEG unlock = Yellow/red all doors, drivers, ORANGE / black, (-).
BIU, gray 20 pin plug, pins 11 and 14.
Power lock (5 wire) = Orange, BIU, gray or blue 16 pin plug, pin 6.
Driver unlock (5 wire) = Red, BIU, gray or blue 16 pin plug, pin 8.
Unlock others (5 wire) = RED / green, BIU, gray or blue 16 pin plug, pin 7.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, I know its been a couple years since I did this for a living (more like 10) but you lost me on "Low NEG Lock" and "Power lock (5 wire)".

If I understand correctly the "low Neg Lock" will simply require a negative trigger to activate on the red / white wire, and the same negative trigger for the yellow / red wire to to all doors? Will this trigger the drivers too, or will it have to be tied in? I'm not looking to be fancy and have the drivers only option.
Thank you sir!


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Matt

Correct. The RED / White is a signal that will lock all the doors and the Yellow/Red will
Unlock all the doors. If you wanted to get fancy and do priority unlock, with drivers doors
first and the second pulse to unlock the rest, you would need to also go to the drivers door
motor wires.

You can test this easily by locating the correct wires and using a fused jumper wire to
momentarily ground the selected wire.

Most quality aftermarket remote keyless entry systems can be installed to do want you
want. Look for a Viper 211HV system and see if it's features fit your needs.

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Soldering is fun!

I appreciate the info. I'm just hoping and preying once the heat dies back a day (mid 90's the past couple days) I can get this tested out. I'm just hoping and praying the factory module still works and the locks will still function. I am also taking a wild shot and might order a used remote to see if I can program it to the factory keyless which is SUPPOSED to be there. I figure $15 is worth trying it.

Also, what makes the Viper unit so nice? The last stand alone alarms I did was Clifford and Avital stuff... ever since then, its just been cheapie DEI keyless systems

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Matt

They are all the same now. Viper, Clifford, Avital, AutoStart, Astrostart, Python & Automate. Directed bought them all.

The 211HV is a very popular unit with a lot of info and support out there for you. There are many other quality brands too, just do the due diligence research before pulling out your wallet...

It is possible to program a new remote to the car. The info for that should be out on the WEB also.

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Soldering is fun!

Wow.. Well, Directed was always a big unit... compared t the stuff today, the old Clifford stuff was SUCH a pain to wire... SO many repetitive hookups etc...
I ordered a replacement remote, and we will see it if programs, if not, that DEI unit will prob be my best choice, and, silly as this sounds, I like the OEM style look of the remotes...
Does that unit have relays on board for locks? (Im GUESSING it does since its keyless only)? Worst case if the OEM module is bad and it WONT trigger the locks, they are only 2 wire solenoids, if I HAVE to, can run new wires to all the doors and use them like that..

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Matt

Try cutting one of the motor wires, orange with the doors unlocked then apply 12 volts to the end away from the BIU, that will confirm actuator working, for all to fail at once I'd give you better odds on the lottery!
Also I still think this is a fuse problem, is there an under-hood fuse box as well as interior and have you tested ALL the fuses with a DMM.
Yes the 211 has built in relays and no Clifford wasn't a pain if you were competent and painstaking, G4 was the best product ever made.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no, I haven't tested the fuses with a multimeter yet, however, I did replace both fuses under the dash. At this point, Im willing ot simply replace ALL the fuses and start fresh

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Matt

Underhood fuse box?
Why do we never believe people when they say they've checked all the fuses?
How many dead Honda's before people realise that the ignition switch is fused in the engine bay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Actually, today it ends up the plug in the drivers door wasn't seated properly, now the power locks work, no remote YET to test it with but, I might have that covered! its a good day when something works right! :)


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Matt

Good find! Unusual problem but a quick, inexpensive fix is always good.

Looks like the 2002 Impreza had the Alpine RKE system. Here is the info on programming
a replacement FOB : https://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpinev    Looks a lot
easier than the one I did on my daughters 2007 Outback. Factory Remotes are available
on-line for around $30 each. ( might be cheaper to install an aftermarket system and get
two remotes & better range, too )

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Soldering is fun!