security light alarm or car?

I have been experiencing a "SECURITY" issue the past few months in my 1992 Camaro Z28 with a Viper 5904. It happens COMPLETELY Out of the blue so it VERY hard to diagnose or show.

I remote start the car nearly 90% of the time. RANDOMLY the car will not start. Absolutely no sound. I hop in the car assuming the battery is dead and while there is FULL battery power, when you either remote start in from sitting IN the car, OR put the key in the ignition and turn the key you can clearly see SECURITY stays on.

This usually indicates there is a pass-key issue.. Either a malfunction of the sensor, dirty chip, damaged chip, wrong key.. (if not trying to break in with different keys with different resistant chips).

HOWEVER the CHIP itself and I BELIEVE the sensor in the ignition cylinder, AND/OR Ignition cylinder itself FLIES OUT THE DOOR does it not? since it's not the key causing it. After all when you remote start it, you don't put a key in the ignition.

It has NEVER done it with the car since this time likely only because I always remote start the car. Course if I wait for 5 minutes or more the car will start right up with the key. AND if I try to turn the key before the 5 minutes is up from the time I remote started it, the timer will reset and I must wait longer..

So my question is:

WHO do I take the car to?

DEALER? or the ALARM SHOP?

Both would be ** VERY ** hard for me with my work schedule to get an appointment so I don't want to waste time and money if it does not pertain to the work needing to be done to fix it.

If the CAR itself is at fault (ie. the Resistance sensor, or the Ignition Cylinder) WOULD remote starting still cause a problem even tho the key is not even inserted?
Could it be the BYPASS that the alarm shop installed only because it can do it WITHOUT having to put a key in to cause it..

Thanks!

If the problem only occurs with the R/S and never with a standard key start-up, then your problem must be
the bypass module used. I'm rather surprised you have never had the common VATS key / cylinder problems,
but that might be because you rarely use the key for a start-up.

VATS is a fairly simple system to bypass using a relay and a resistor. There are only 15 possible resistor values
and you can obtain them in a pre-made package from DEI ( 652T ) for around $3. Here is a link to the necessary
wiring : https://documents.audiovox.com/700052.pdf These connections should be soldered for proper operation
and long term reliability. ( The VATS wires are extremely thin and difficult to work with.)

You should return to the Alarm Shop and depending on exactly how your cars VATS system was bypassed ( resistor
& relay or bypass module ), they can re-program the bypass or correct the wiring.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Yeah that's the problem.. it's a random occurrence.. Could be twice a day.. once a week, once a month, once or twice in 3 months..

If I R/S and it does it, then if I sit in the car and try to start with key it's still activated so it then requires you to wait then it will eventually work with the key once the time has lapsed. If I try while in car with the key BEFORE it lapses then it adds ANOTHER time to the time going..

This is why most people permanently bypass the vats system completely by cutting one of the white wires in half and soldering a matching resistor between the vehicle half of the cut wire and the non cut white wire. Permanently disabling that system. Yes it makes the car easier to steal, but if you can not drive or operate the vehicle when intended, why bother having the car. I completely understand if that does not sound appealing but be aware that more than likely your cure is a new ignition lock and key and possibly a reprogram of the cars computer. It is much simpler to bypass the system than to fix it. If you need further help with the bypass let us know.

-James

-------------
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*