2013 camry excalbur al 1830 edbp with bla
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134384
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 1:16 PM
Topic: 2013 camry excalbur al 1830 edbp with bla
Posted By: wabasha11
Subject: 2013 camry excalbur al 1830 edbp with bla
Date Posted: June 15, 2013 at 11:35 PM
I am a rookie car alarm Installer and have a question. I am installing a the RS above in a 2013 Camry. I have the USB flasher. I plugged in the blade cartridge and flashed the TL5-EN Firmware for the car. In the install file for the BLADE unit, it shows that you need to connect the Power / Ignition / Acc. harness. Then it shows to connect The CANH, IMMO DATA, and the CANL all from the OBDII port. Then the Door lock Data to the blade harness and from the 18 pin 1830 unit to connect the Parking light (-) output and it tells you exactly where these the
1) 12V
2) ACC
3) CANH
3) CANL
4) Doorloack Data,
5) Ignition A and B
6) Immobilizer
7) Parking Lights
8) Starters 1 and 2
the locations, Camry plug and pin #. My question is if the blade cartridge is installed and these connections are made, Is that all that needs to be done? Or do I have to connect the other wires in the 1830 manual? The 18 harness for the 1830 shows to also make connections for Dome Lights Relay N/O(+/-)Input, the Dome Lights Relay output N/C (+/-) Input and the Door Lock Relay COM Output. the same holds true for the horn. Do I simply take the Dome Lights N/O and N/C and connect them to 12+ and the other to Ground with the COM connecting to the Dome Lights? The Dome Light is (-) so does it matter for the N/C and N/O connections which one goes to 12+ and which goes to ground? Same for the horn.
To clarify, my question are as follows:
1) Are the connections from the blade install manual all I need to connect
2) Do I need to connect the 18 pin harness Dome and Horn wiring?
3) If so, does it matter which ones go to 12V and Ground or can I choose?
4) For the COM connections to the dome and horn, do I have to make an adjustment so the 1830 unit gives a (-) output?
5) With the Blade wired and the dome light and horn, is that all the wiring that needs to be done?
6) Do I need to go in and program the unit for a (-) output for these circuits?
I hope I am making sense.
Thanks
-------------
TR
1) 12V
2) ACC
3) CANH
3) CANL
4) Doorloack Data,
5) Ignition A and B
6) Immobilizer
7) Parking Lights
8) Starters 1 and 2
the locations, Camry plug and pin #. My question is if the blade cartridge is installed and these connections are made, Is that all that needs to be done? Or do I have to connect the other wires in the 1830 manual? The 18 harness for the 1830 shows to also make connections for Dome Lights Relay N/O(+/-)Input, the Dome Lights Relay output N/C (+/-) Input and the Door Lock Relay COM Output. the same holds true for the horn. Do I simply take the Dome Lights N/O and N/C and connect them to 12+ and the other to Ground with the COM connecting to the Dome Lights? The Dome Light is (-) so does it matter for the N/C and N/O connections which one goes to 12+ and which goes to ground? Same for the horn.
To clarify, my question are as follows:
1) Are the connections from the blade install manual all I need to connect
2) Do I need to connect the 18 pin harness Dome and Horn wiring?
3) If so, does it matter which ones go to 12V and Ground or can I choose?
4) For the COM connections to the dome and horn, do I have to make an adjustment so the 1830 unit gives a (-) output?
5) With the Blade wired and the dome light and horn, is that all the wiring that needs to be done?
6) Do I need to go in and program the unit for a (-) output for these circuits?
I hope I am making sense.
Thanks
-------------
TR
Replies:
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 15, 2013 at 11:39 PM
I forgot to ask if I need to even use the 6 Pin aux, 3 Pin Sat. Relay Port (Red), " " (Blue. and 4 pin door lock port? It shows to connect red wires to 12+ for the 3 port and 4 pin locks and the other wires are showing optional. The pink is channel 3 output but I won't be installing it to anything and finally, my Camry is not Push Start, it is an SE with standard 80G key.
-------------
TR
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 16, 2013 at 5:08 AM
The quick answer is -- the iDatalink install diagram shows most all of the necessary connections. It does not
go into great detail on the R/S side of things because the Blade cartridge can be used on the Compustar or
some Excalbur systems. Basically, follow the Install guide #11177 Type 2 diagram using the wiring chart. You
will need an additional relay to support all the ignition wires ( 2 IGN, 2 Starter and 1 ACC ).
Usually, Dome Light Supervision is not required on newer vehicles because the Dome Light will come with
an Unlock and go off ( fade out ) with a Lock. Test to verify.
As for the optional Horn connection, you will have to run that wire from the Excalbur to the Camry. If the
Excalbur's Horn output is (-) you should be able to make a direct connection the the Camry's horn wire.
Horn Trigger Lt. Blue (-) @ dash fuse box, white 40 pin plug (3D), pin 15
Please note that If the Camry does not have the Factory Hood Pin ( Factory Alarm system ) you will also need
to install the Excalbur kits' hood pin and connect that to the Excalbur's Hood Pin input wire.
In this application, the Factory remotes will not work during a remote start so you will have to use the
Excalbur remotes. ( With some vehicles, like the 2010 & 2011 Camry's, it will allow the Factory remotes
to operate during a remote start.)
Here is a link to a similar install on a 2011 RAV4 using the ADS AL CA bypass module instead of the
Blade cartridge : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~133996~PN~1 You will
see a lot of similarities.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
go into great detail on the R/S side of things because the Blade cartridge can be used on the Compustar or
some Excalbur systems. Basically, follow the Install guide #11177 Type 2 diagram using the wiring chart. You
will need an additional relay to support all the ignition wires ( 2 IGN, 2 Starter and 1 ACC ).
Usually, Dome Light Supervision is not required on newer vehicles because the Dome Light will come with
an Unlock and go off ( fade out ) with a Lock. Test to verify.
As for the optional Horn connection, you will have to run that wire from the Excalbur to the Camry. If the
Excalbur's Horn output is (-) you should be able to make a direct connection the the Camry's horn wire.
Horn Trigger Lt. Blue (-) @ dash fuse box, white 40 pin plug (3D), pin 15
Please note that If the Camry does not have the Factory Hood Pin ( Factory Alarm system ) you will also need
to install the Excalbur kits' hood pin and connect that to the Excalbur's Hood Pin input wire.
In this application, the Factory remotes will not work during a remote start so you will have to use the
Excalbur remotes. ( With some vehicles, like the 2010 & 2011 Camry's, it will allow the Factory remotes
to operate during a remote start.)
Here is a link to a similar install on a 2011 RAV4 using the ADS AL CA bypass module instead of the
Blade cartridge : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~133996~PN~1 You will
see a lot of similarities.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 16, 2013 at 7:46 PM
Thanks. I am using the excalibur 1830 model 2 way. I have the blade cartridge installed in the excalibur compatible model so the alarm has a 20 pin and an 18 pin harness that both plug in the 1830 alarm. The 20 harness for the blade and the 18 for the Excalibur. I am using the 11177 type 2 and have all the wires identified and tested. I actually bought the oem hood switch and installed it so I would be able to avoid installing and running a wire through the firewall. But my 2 isses are the 18 harness for the excalibur (when I refer to the 1830 or the excalibur I am refering to the same thing. The model number of the excalibur alarm / RS system). The 18 harness on the 1830 tells says there are 3 horn wires. 1 for the "com" and the other 2 for either 12+ or chassis ground. The 2 wires both say the same thing. I am assuming they need to be connected for power for the relay. One question is does it matter which wire goes to 12+ and which goes to ground? Can I just splice them in at the brain to the main 12+ and the main ground? Then that would leave to "com" wire. Does this go to the horn (-) wire?
From the comments you made, do I even need to hookup the 3 dome light wires at all? They use the same principal of "com" and 12 + wire and chassis ground wire.
What am I using the relay for? Can someone please explain?
I think I understand that the horn needs to havee an activation means so would I install as I explained above and through the firmware/flashing it allows you to also set all adjustments. To me, logically the horn needs to activate from the "unlock" setting. The other 2 option settings I think are ignition and accessory. So I have to select one of them. I did look at the RAV4 install but am still a little confused.
The Camry does not have an OEM alarm but as I mentioned, I installed the OEM hood switch in the latch and plugged it in to the 2 or 3 pin connector that was sitting there not being used so since I did so I am assuming the 1830 will know through the OBDII the hood status and no additional wiring will be required.
Thanks for the help.
-------------
TR
From the comments you made, do I even need to hookup the 3 dome light wires at all? They use the same principal of "com" and 12 + wire and chassis ground wire.
What am I using the relay for? Can someone please explain?
I think I understand that the horn needs to havee an activation means so would I install as I explained above and through the firmware/flashing it allows you to also set all adjustments. To me, logically the horn needs to activate from the "unlock" setting. The other 2 option settings I think are ignition and accessory. So I have to select one of them. I did look at the RAV4 install but am still a little confused.
The Camry does not have an OEM alarm but as I mentioned, I installed the OEM hood switch in the latch and plugged it in to the 2 or 3 pin connector that was sitting there not being used so since I did so I am assuming the 1830 will know through the OBDII the hood status and no additional wiring will be required.
Thanks for the help.
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 16, 2013 at 9:12 PM
While I am familiar with the Compustar Systems that use the iDatalink Blade cartridge, I have
never used any Excalibur units. I did download the install guide for your 1830 system so here
goes :
The only wires that need to be connected on the 18 Pin Harness are :
Black to Chassis Ground ( you can tie in all other wires needing ground )
Brown to siren
WHITE/ Black Flashing Light to Camry Parking Lights (-) Black @ Body ECU on dash fuse box, white 30 pin plug, pin 30
Optional
Blue/Black Horn Relay Output to Camry Horn (-)
Violet/Black Horn Relay Input to chassis ground
BROWN / Black - not used
Dome Light - probably won't need
Hood Pin if Blade does not pick up the factory switch you installed. Easy test : Get everything
working, do a remote start and lift the hood. The engine should shutdown.
The Horn is optional. I imaging the Siren chirps with door lock commands...
The Excalibur 1830 is capable of supplying two Ignitions, one Starter and one Accessory. That
leaves the Camry's Starter2 circuit. You can accomplish this using a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and
a fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse, wired as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Excalibur 3 Pin Sat. Port, Green (-) Start Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant with fuse holder & fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Camry Light Green Starter2 (+)
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
never used any Excalibur units. I did download the install guide for your 1830 system so here
goes :
The only wires that need to be connected on the 18 Pin Harness are :
Black to Chassis Ground ( you can tie in all other wires needing ground )
Brown to siren
WHITE/ Black Flashing Light to Camry Parking Lights (-) Black @ Body ECU on dash fuse box, white 30 pin plug, pin 30
Optional
Blue/Black Horn Relay Output to Camry Horn (-)
Violet/Black Horn Relay Input to chassis ground
BROWN / Black - not used
Dome Light - probably won't need
Hood Pin if Blade does not pick up the factory switch you installed. Easy test : Get everything
working, do a remote start and lift the hood. The engine should shutdown.
The Horn is optional. I imaging the Siren chirps with door lock commands...
The Excalibur 1830 is capable of supplying two Ignitions, one Starter and one Accessory. That
leaves the Camry's Starter2 circuit. You can accomplish this using a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and
a fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse, wired as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Excalibur 3 Pin Sat. Port, Green (-) Start Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant with fuse holder & fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Camry Light Green Starter2 (+)
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 16, 2013 at 10:40 PM
Can't I use the horn instead of the siren? I was trying to avoid the siren. I understand the rest. But to clarify, the relay is because there are 2 starter wires on the camry, starter 1 lt. green position 3 on 8 pin camry harness and starter 2 blue position 7 on same 8 pin camry harness. Since there are 2 starter wires on the camry, I need the second starter to engage using the relay? Is that the logic for the relay?
The only wires that need to be connected on the 18 Pin Harness are :
Black to Chassis Ground ( you can tie in all other wires needing ground )
Brown to siren .Can I leave out the siren?
WHITE/ Black Flashing Light to Camry Parking Lights (-) Black @ Body ECU on dash fuse box, white 30 pin plug, pin 30
Optional
Blue/Black Horn Relay Output to Camry Horn (-)
Violet/Black Horn Relay Input to chassis ground Because the horn is negative?
BROWN / Black - not used
Dome Light - probably won't need Because the dome should pickup from the 20 Pin Blade ?
Hood Pin if Blade does not pick up the factory switch you installed. Easy test : Get everything
working, do a remote start and lift the hood. The engine should shutdown.
The Horn is optional. I imaging the Siren chirps with door lock commands...
The Excalibur 1830 is capable of supplying two Ignitions, one Starter and one Accessory. That
leaves the Camry's Starter2 circuit. You can accomplish this using a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and
a fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse, wired as follows : So I can tap into the 12+ from the main Excalibur harness for this and tie both 12+ together for the relay into the fuse, then connect to the tap into the main 12+ ?
Relay Pin 85 to Excalibur 3 Pin Sat. Port, Green (-) Start Output negative output will trigger the relay and feed 12+ to the Starter 2 ?
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant with fuse holder & fuse As mentioned above ?
Relay Pin 30 to Camry Light Green Starter2 (+)
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate
I think I understand the rest. If Dome Light does not work, then what would the alternative be? This circuit is important for door sensing.
Thanks a lot for your help. I didn't realize how much the blade cut out so many connections. Amazing. If I used the other newer unit that they make (my apologies, I forget the name of it) I would be able to use the factory keyless entry to activate the RS I think.
Will I be able to use the keyless entry still for just locking / unlocking the doors if I do not choose to set the alarm or operate the RS?
-------------
TR
The only wires that need to be connected on the 18 Pin Harness are :
Black to Chassis Ground ( you can tie in all other wires needing ground )
Brown to siren .Can I leave out the siren?
WHITE/ Black Flashing Light to Camry Parking Lights (-) Black @ Body ECU on dash fuse box, white 30 pin plug, pin 30
Optional
Blue/Black Horn Relay Output to Camry Horn (-)
Violet/Black Horn Relay Input to chassis ground Because the horn is negative?
BROWN / Black - not used
Dome Light - probably won't need Because the dome should pickup from the 20 Pin Blade ?
Hood Pin if Blade does not pick up the factory switch you installed. Easy test : Get everything
working, do a remote start and lift the hood. The engine should shutdown.
The Horn is optional. I imaging the Siren chirps with door lock commands...
The Excalibur 1830 is capable of supplying two Ignitions, one Starter and one Accessory. That
leaves the Camry's Starter2 circuit. You can accomplish this using a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and
a fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse, wired as follows : So I can tap into the 12+ from the main Excalibur harness for this and tie both 12+ together for the relay into the fuse, then connect to the tap into the main 12+ ?
Relay Pin 85 to Excalibur 3 Pin Sat. Port, Green (-) Start Output negative output will trigger the relay and feed 12+ to the Starter 2 ?
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant with fuse holder & fuse As mentioned above ?
Relay Pin 30 to Camry Light Green Starter2 (+)
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate
I think I understand the rest. If Dome Light does not work, then what would the alternative be? This circuit is important for door sensing.
Thanks a lot for your help. I didn't realize how much the blade cut out so many connections. Amazing. If I used the other newer unit that they make (my apologies, I forget the name of it) I would be able to use the factory keyless entry to activate the RS I think.
Will I be able to use the keyless entry still for just locking / unlocking the doors if I do not choose to set the alarm or operate the RS?
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 17, 2013 at 6:53 AM
Wow, a lot of questions. Again not an Excalibur user but...
You can leave the siren disconnected and use the horn. See programming option 15.
Yes, the vehicle needs a (-) Horn connection, so the Excalibur's Horn Relay Input is connected
to chassis ground.
The Blade doesn't directly control the Dome Light. If a Unlock command also turns on the
Dome Light, the vehicle controls that.
Depending on the current needs of the ignition wires and the Excalibur itself, you might
not be able to join all the Excalibur and extra relay power wires into one. Typically, I make
my power connection(s) at the thick White wire at the Dash Fuse Box. Generic Toyota
picture below :
The Factory remotes should continue to work the same after the Excalibur install.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
You can leave the siren disconnected and use the horn. See programming option 15.
Yes, the vehicle needs a (-) Horn connection, so the Excalibur's Horn Relay Input is connected
to chassis ground.
The Blade doesn't directly control the Dome Light. If a Unlock command also turns on the
Dome Light, the vehicle controls that.
Depending on the current needs of the ignition wires and the Excalibur itself, you might
not be able to join all the Excalibur and extra relay power wires into one. Typically, I make
my power connection(s) at the thick White wire at the Dash Fuse Box. Generic Toyota
picture below :
The Factory remotes should continue to work the same after the Excalibur install.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 24, 2013 at 8:46 PM
So I finally got around to hooking it up. I wired the 2 ignitions, the accessory, and the 2 starters (starter # 2 by relay as suggested from the three port red harness) and I made the immobilizer and the other 2 CanH and CanL connections at the OBD port. The parking lights to the black 30 pin # 30 and the doorlock to pin 16 (blue) on the same 30 harness. I made the 12+ connection to the main white power. First thing I did when I plugged everything in is I turned the key to on and off and the Blade unit went to blue for 2 sec then shut off so I know it programmed the key to the immobilizer according to the programming directions. But when I remote start, I hear the relay in the brain click and the remote shows it starting yet nothing happens. I thought it may be due to the hood pin switch so I ran the Grey/Red wire from the 20 Pin Blade harness to ground and then the grey 18 pin harness wire to the pin switch and installed it and nothing happened either. I did not connect the horn or the siren but I did ground the horn wire and the dome light just in case I needed to hook them up but did not hook the dome light or the horn wires to the vehicle. I have the flasher unit and I flashed the correct firmware and left the factory settings. I went through the rundown of the installer and the user programming options to see if I could find something that needs to be changed in the programming but could not find anything that jumped out. Any ideas? Oh and by the way, the factory remote unlocks, but when you lock, it beeps as if you just had the keyless entry and locked the car with a door open. The trunk release, lock, and unlock all work on the Excalbur remotes. But going with the most simple wiring, where might I have gone wrong?
Thanks.
-------------
TR
Thanks.
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 24, 2013 at 9:42 PM
Might not be able to assist too much ( Excalibur ). There are several things that should be checked.
1. Being as the Blade supplies a nice Tach signal, set the AL-1830 to Tach Mode ( Installer Feature #6 ) and
do the Tach Learn process.
2. Ensure that the AL-1830 is not in Manual Trans mode. Change Installer Option 5 to Auto Trans.
3. Triple check all your connections to ensure the correct vehicle wires and a good solder joints.
4. Use a DMM to check if the two Starter outputs, AL-1830 Violet and External SPDT Relay Pin 30, go to
+12V at any point of a R/S attempt. Also verify both Ignition outputs go to +12V.
Here are the AL-1830 R/S LED diagnostic flash codes.
REMOTE START DIAGNOSTICS (GREEN LIGHT):
The remote start system can also indicate which zone caused the last remote
start cycle was ended. To see this indicator, place the system into alarm valet mode.
Immediately after the chirp, the GREEN status light will flash to indicate what caused
remote start to end.
1 FLASH: Run time expired.
2 FLASHES: Brake pedal was pressed.
3 FLASHES: Engine stalled or a bad tach signal.
4 FLASHES: Received transmitter command to stop.
5 FLASHES: Gear selector was moved from park(or the parking brake was released).
6 FLASHES: The alarm was triggered or low battery voltage.
The Blades' LED will also show Red or Blue indications to point you in the right direction.
If I understand the other problem with the factory remote FOB's not doing a Lock correctly,
that is a problem. The added R/S & Blade should not change normal vehicle operation if installed
correctly. If you have the Factory Alarm system and popping the hood will set off the Factory
alarm, do not ground the Blade Gray/Red wire. You can also try a Factory Reset on the Blade
and then reprogram to the car with the ignition key again.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
1. Being as the Blade supplies a nice Tach signal, set the AL-1830 to Tach Mode ( Installer Feature #6 ) and
do the Tach Learn process.
2. Ensure that the AL-1830 is not in Manual Trans mode. Change Installer Option 5 to Auto Trans.
3. Triple check all your connections to ensure the correct vehicle wires and a good solder joints.
4. Use a DMM to check if the two Starter outputs, AL-1830 Violet and External SPDT Relay Pin 30, go to
+12V at any point of a R/S attempt. Also verify both Ignition outputs go to +12V.
Here are the AL-1830 R/S LED diagnostic flash codes.
REMOTE START DIAGNOSTICS (GREEN LIGHT):
The remote start system can also indicate which zone caused the last remote
start cycle was ended. To see this indicator, place the system into alarm valet mode.
Immediately after the chirp, the GREEN status light will flash to indicate what caused
remote start to end.
1 FLASH: Run time expired.
2 FLASHES: Brake pedal was pressed.
3 FLASHES: Engine stalled or a bad tach signal.
4 FLASHES: Received transmitter command to stop.
5 FLASHES: Gear selector was moved from park(or the parking brake was released).
6 FLASHES: The alarm was triggered or low battery voltage.
The Blades' LED will also show Red or Blue indications to point you in the right direction.
If I understand the other problem with the factory remote FOB's not doing a Lock correctly,
that is a problem. The added R/S & Blade should not change normal vehicle operation if installed
correctly. If you have the Factory Alarm system and popping the hood will set off the Factory
alarm, do not ground the Blade Gray/Red wire. You can also try a Factory Reset on the Blade
and then reprogram to the car with the ignition key again.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 24, 2013 at 9:48 PM
I'm sure you did it but being as it wasn't mentioned, the AL-1830 Black wire on the 18 Pin connector should go to a very solid, clean, paint free, chassis ground point using a soldered on terminal ring.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 25, 2013 at 1:49 AM
I looked at the LED on the blade and it does not flash or click any longer. Also, I have the Camry SE edition that came with only the remote lock / unlock / trunk pop. It did not come with the alarm. So I bought the OEM factory hood pin switch and installed it and plugged it in to the harness that is sitting unused that is meant for the hood pin switch. That is why I tried installing the additional pin switch because I thought it may not be connected since it does not have an alarm. The factory "beeping" is maintained. I only installed exactly what I mentioned. I tested and got a 12+ on both the violet and relay wires going to the Starter 1 and 2. I am stumped. According to the blade manual, those are the only wires than need to be connected, the 2 ignitions, 2 - 12+, 2 starter, 1 Accessory,1 Parking lights,1 Doorlock sense, CanH CanL, and immobilizer and of coarse the ground. 13 wires total and flashed the proper firmware. I then followed the directions for the immobilizer to learn the key code. I then knew it was set to press button #4 x 2 for RS and the 2 way remote made the vibration and the screen flashed the starting figure and I heard the clicking of the relay(s) I assume and nothing happened. It didn't even try to start. That is why I opted to run the pin switch just in case the OEM I installed is not connected to anything at the other end, wherever it runs to. If it was connected, then that is not the problem. Just wanted to rule it out. There is a setting under the Pink/white wire. It can be set for Starter, Ignition, or Accessory. What is the proper setting? I have a feeling a setting is wrong because I checked everything and re-tested the next day all over again with a fresh mind. Either that or the brain is fried because During the remote start process, the light on the blade is supposed to come on . It does not. It does not light up. according to the manual, it says there is a faulty ground possible? I will ground it somewhere else I guess, but I don't think that is the problem. EVERYTHING is soldered so there is no possibility that there is a loose connection. Any way to test if the unit is bad?
-------------
TR
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 25, 2013 at 6:30 AM
Re the Pink/White think wire you have connected to the Camry's IGN2 or IGN B wire. It is a selectable output. I believe the default AL-1830 setting is IGN2 but you could go into programming and verify or set it to IGN2.
Re Hood Pin : There might be no way to test and verify your added factory hood pin is integrated into the vehicle properly and being picked up by the Blade thru the CAN Bus. Grounding the Gray/Red wire and connecting the AL-1830 to the kit's hood pin will work.
Did you try a Tach Learn?
Does the car R/S with a factory ignition key held with the head section next to the ignition switch?
Any AL-1830 diagnostic flash codes?
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Re Hood Pin : There might be no way to test and verify your added factory hood pin is integrated into the vehicle properly and being picked up by the Blade thru the CAN Bus. Grounding the Gray/Red wire and connecting the AL-1830 to the kit's hood pin will work.
Did you try a Tach Learn?
Does the car R/S with a factory ignition key held with the head section next to the ignition switch?
Any AL-1830 diagnostic flash codes?
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 25, 2013 at 7:45 PM
I did try the tach learn if you mean pressing the brake pedal 5 x and that whole procedure. I do not get any codes from the light on the Blade. If I did, I would know where to look. The only thing I can see is that during the remote start, if there is no light, it is supposed to show a grounding issue. But that man not be the case. hood pin switch is connected like I mentioned. The pink / white is set to ignition. You only have 3 choices. Ignition, starter, and accessory. Is it possible that I have to swap the 2 ignition wires? Or the 2 starter wires for that matter? Meaning Starter 1 may be switched with starter 2 or Ignition 1 is switched with Ignition 2? Would it really matter even if they were swapped? I am at the point of buying another unit and using the blade. I was looking at the Crime Guard 830i7. It takes the blade cartridge. It is practically identical in every way including the wiring, etc. I don't know how else to check if the brain is bad. I have had the Excalibur unit for at least a year and would be too late to return. If you have any ideas of how to test it or bench test it to check if it works, I would be very appreciative of any ideas or quick ways to check it. Thanks.
-------------
TR
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 25, 2013 at 8:36 PM
Sorry, Excalibur is not one of my normal brands. Hopefully another forum member with Excalibur experience can assist.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha11
Date Posted: June 27, 2013 at 4:01 PM
I really appreciate all your help even though I can't seem to get this working. I don't think people like you get the recognition you deserve for taking the time to help others out. I think I am going to scrap this model and start over. What would you think the best model would be (2-way) that is rather easy to install for my application?
-------------
TR
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 27, 2013 at 8:29 PM
Well, before you go and spend some more money, let's see if we can get the AL-1830 + Blade w/TL5 firmware
working. You seem so close. I would definitely play around with it to see what's going on. My short-coming
is lack of experience with the Excalibur system.
Note : The steps are in a specific sequence. If the steps don't go exactly right, stop and troubleshoot the issue.
We are assuming that all the R/S output wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires. As you said, it's only
14 wires. Power, chassis ground, the 5 ignition wires, the three wires from the Blade harness to the OBD2
connector and one to the Door Data wire, the parking light, horn, and hood pin.
First, let's hook up the horn. It can supply some good info. You already have the Excalibur's horn relay input
going to chassis ground, so it's just a matter of running the Violet/Black wire to the Camry's Light Blue horn
wire. Not sure on the AL-1830, but generally a Lock or Unlock command will beep the horn ( even if the Blade
isn't doing its' job ).
At this point, I would set all the necessary programming options on the Excalibur. Try as I might, I am not
positive if the first column ( Lock ) is the factory default setting. Assuming this, there are several options that
need to set, changed or verified. Here is a list :
User :
#15 to Pulse Horn Lo
#22 to 15 minutes
Installer:
#5 to Man Trans = OFF
#6 to Tach Wire ( could be DataTach if that means from Blade cartridge )
#8 to IGN2
#13 shouldn't matter with a Blade cartridge if this is for the 4 pin Data Port on the side of the AL-1830.
Next, let's do a Factory Reset on the Blade. Think I would pull the power fuses on the R/S system. Then un-plug
the 20 Pin Blade Harness. Then slide out the Blade cartridge, re-install the fuses, press and hold the Blade
button and slide it back in. Release the button when it starts flashing Red, then watch / verify the LED goes
Red for 2 seconds then off. Plug in the 20 Pin Blade harness and perform Module to vehicle programming
with the ignition key. Watch / verify correct LED response. ( Again, not familiar with the Excalibur, but hopefully
pulling the fuses does not reset the unit or loose any programming.)
If the Blade reset and programming went correctly, the Excalibur's remotes should lock and unlock the doors and
pop the trunk. Try just these features to verify. The Excalibur should also give the corresponding horn and
parking light flashes with each command. Additionally ( with the engine off ) the Toyota factory FOBs should
work like normal.
Next test the Excalibur's alarm section. The Blade should be providing the door and trunk inputs and your hood
pin should be providing that input signal. Again not knowledgeable on the AL-1830 but set the system alarm to
ON, then reach in and open a door with the inside handle, pop the hood and trunk to see if the AL-1830 sounds
the Horn ( in lieu of the siren ). There might be some AL-1830 programming to do.
Next is setting the AL-1830 for Tach Mode operation via a programming option, then do a Tach Learn procedure.
Ensure you get the correct response from the Excalibur that it has successfully learned the Tach Signal. Another
weak area for me, as I have never done this on an AL-1830. If the Tach Learn was good, connect a DMM ( or test
light ) to the AL-1830 IGN1 output wire and try a remote start. The IGN1 wire should go to +12V and the instrument
panel should come on. Hopefully the car starts. If everything worked up to this point, try a remote start with a
working key held to the ignition switch ( so the transponder antenna can pick-up the keys signal ).
That sure tell us something. The important stuff is any step that didn't execute properly and any LED error
signals received.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
working. You seem so close. I would definitely play around with it to see what's going on. My short-coming
is lack of experience with the Excalibur system.
Note : The steps are in a specific sequence. If the steps don't go exactly right, stop and troubleshoot the issue.
We are assuming that all the R/S output wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires. As you said, it's only
14 wires. Power, chassis ground, the 5 ignition wires, the three wires from the Blade harness to the OBD2
connector and one to the Door Data wire, the parking light, horn, and hood pin.
First, let's hook up the horn. It can supply some good info. You already have the Excalibur's horn relay input
going to chassis ground, so it's just a matter of running the Violet/Black wire to the Camry's Light Blue horn
wire. Not sure on the AL-1830, but generally a Lock or Unlock command will beep the horn ( even if the Blade
isn't doing its' job ).
At this point, I would set all the necessary programming options on the Excalibur. Try as I might, I am not
positive if the first column ( Lock ) is the factory default setting. Assuming this, there are several options that
need to set, changed or verified. Here is a list :
User :
#15 to Pulse Horn Lo
#22 to 15 minutes
Installer:
#5 to Man Trans = OFF
#6 to Tach Wire ( could be DataTach if that means from Blade cartridge )
#8 to IGN2
#13 shouldn't matter with a Blade cartridge if this is for the 4 pin Data Port on the side of the AL-1830.
Next, let's do a Factory Reset on the Blade. Think I would pull the power fuses on the R/S system. Then un-plug
the 20 Pin Blade Harness. Then slide out the Blade cartridge, re-install the fuses, press and hold the Blade
button and slide it back in. Release the button when it starts flashing Red, then watch / verify the LED goes
Red for 2 seconds then off. Plug in the 20 Pin Blade harness and perform Module to vehicle programming
with the ignition key. Watch / verify correct LED response. ( Again, not familiar with the Excalibur, but hopefully
pulling the fuses does not reset the unit or loose any programming.)
If the Blade reset and programming went correctly, the Excalibur's remotes should lock and unlock the doors and
pop the trunk. Try just these features to verify. The Excalibur should also give the corresponding horn and
parking light flashes with each command. Additionally ( with the engine off ) the Toyota factory FOBs should
work like normal.
Next test the Excalibur's alarm section. The Blade should be providing the door and trunk inputs and your hood
pin should be providing that input signal. Again not knowledgeable on the AL-1830 but set the system alarm to
ON, then reach in and open a door with the inside handle, pop the hood and trunk to see if the AL-1830 sounds
the Horn ( in lieu of the siren ). There might be some AL-1830 programming to do.
Next is setting the AL-1830 for Tach Mode operation via a programming option, then do a Tach Learn procedure.
Ensure you get the correct response from the Excalibur that it has successfully learned the Tach Signal. Another
weak area for me, as I have never done this on an AL-1830. If the Tach Learn was good, connect a DMM ( or test
light ) to the AL-1830 IGN1 output wire and try a remote start. The IGN1 wire should go to +12V and the instrument
panel should come on. Hopefully the car starts. If everything worked up to this point, try a remote start with a
working key held to the ignition switch ( so the transponder antenna can pick-up the keys signal ).
That sure tell us something. The important stuff is any step that didn't execute properly and any LED error
signals received.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wabasha111
Date Posted: July 06, 2013 at 5:45 PM
Sorry, been out of town. I tried everything. I DID NOT hook up the horn or the siren, but it still gets ground from the 18 pin switch. This ground operates the system because It does not work when you take the ground screw off and it is a good ground. The unit has always locked, unlocked, parking lights flash, when you arm and open the door, alarm goes off. Can't hear it because it isn't hooked up to an audible device, but you can hear the relay clicking and the lights on the antenna going off. So everything else works EXCEPT for the RS. I have the setting the way you show them and I also read that when flashing the module on the computer, it defaults to the correct data transfer setting (I don't recall the term because I am not at my home and don't have the install manual. I even tried changing it. I had the pink /white wire set to Ignition # 2 via Installer option # 8. No tach wire hooked up because you don't need it. I wasn't sure the correct setting for the tach option so I tried changing them all and tried each individual one. I reset the unit and removed the Blade from the alarm each time. It is funny because I can see that when I install or plug in the wire harnesses and blade, I turn the Ignition key to on and off. I see the blade light flash blue twice as indicated in the install manual so I am sure it is programmed to read the key correctly. I DID also try the tach learn where you press the brake pedal I think 5 times. I did it under every possible combination of settings.
With the alarm working as it always has, it just won't remote start. I DO NOT hear the relay click for the starter # 2 wire so I replaced the relay with 2 new ones. None of them worked. They ARE definitely wired properly. Green 3 port Red connector pin to 85, 12+ to 86 and 87, and # 30 to starter # 2. I thought perhaps I switched starter 1 and 2 so I swapped them. Meaning I ran starter # 2 to Starter # 1 and vice versa. No luck. Tried the same with the ignitions. The OEM keyless entry remote does lock, but does not unlock. When you unlock, it beeps long. As if you locked the car with the door open before installing the alarm. The alarm also pops the trunk FYI. I even ran a hood switch.
Here is the strange thing. If I test the Ignition at the alarm 6 pin thick wires. I tried with a test light. I get 12+ on both wires, I get Ignition 1 and Ignition 2, accessory, and starters. That is when testing with the key. Yet when I remote start, I don't get any power in my test light and the 6 pin plug in 2 - way. Both an input and an output. I only get the 12+ but none of the rest light up. Therefore, I decided that the unit may have a problem. I also did try RS with the key in the Ignition W/O turning it so it would read the chip just in case. No luck. I know the problem rests in the 6 pin harness since the 2 Ignitions, 2 starters and accessory all test + when turning the key, but none of then work on RS. I figured the relays inside are bad. If my diagnosis steps tell you where the problem is, please let me know what you think. I have just spent days working on it and I decided it is not worth it anymore. It's something I learned in College. Opportunity cost. The several days I have worked on it have taken away from other things. I wanted to do it for fun for old time sake since this used to be my profession many years ago, but it has taken away from too many other things so I decided to buy an Autopage C3-RS-730. Can still return it though if I can get the Excalibur to work. I noticed that the Autopage too does not have a starter 2. Don't know if you are farmiliar with them, but what is the best way to tap in to get a starter 2? can I use the starter 1 and tie in to a relay to the starter 2? Or just splice the 1 wire and run them both to the starter 1 and 2? Could I have done this with the Excalbur too?
With the alarm working as it always has, it just won't remote start. I DO NOT hear the relay click for the starter # 2 wire so I replaced the relay with 2 new ones. None of them worked. They ARE definitely wired properly. Green 3 port Red connector pin to 85, 12+ to 86 and 87, and # 30 to starter # 2. I thought perhaps I switched starter 1 and 2 so I swapped them. Meaning I ran starter # 2 to Starter # 1 and vice versa. No luck. Tried the same with the ignitions. The OEM keyless entry remote does lock, but does not unlock. When you unlock, it beeps long. As if you locked the car with the door open before installing the alarm. The alarm also pops the trunk FYI. I even ran a hood switch.
Here is the strange thing. If I test the Ignition at the alarm 6 pin thick wires. I tried with a test light. I get 12+ on both wires, I get Ignition 1 and Ignition 2, accessory, and starters. That is when testing with the key. Yet when I remote start, I don't get any power in my test light and the 6 pin plug in 2 - way. Both an input and an output. I only get the 12+ but none of the rest light up. Therefore, I decided that the unit may have a problem. I also did try RS with the key in the Ignition W/O turning it so it would read the chip just in case. No luck. I know the problem rests in the 6 pin harness since the 2 Ignitions, 2 starters and accessory all test + when turning the key, but none of then work on RS. I figured the relays inside are bad. If my diagnosis steps tell you where the problem is, please let me know what you think. I have just spent days working on it and I decided it is not worth it anymore. It's something I learned in College. Opportunity cost. The several days I have worked on it have taken away from other things. I wanted to do it for fun for old time sake since this used to be my profession many years ago, but it has taken away from too many other things so I decided to buy an Autopage C3-RS-730. Can still return it though if I can get the Excalibur to work. I noticed that the Autopage too does not have a starter 2. Don't know if you are farmiliar with them, but what is the best way to tap in to get a starter 2? can I use the starter 1 and tie in to a relay to the starter 2? Or just splice the 1 wire and run them both to the starter 1 and 2? Could I have done this with the Excalbur too?
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 06, 2013 at 6:12 PM
Sorry, not trying to waste your time beating a dead horse. The postings on this forum go from novice to expert and
people re-using diodes from old circuit boards to others paying full price for Viper 5904's w/battery backup + multiple
sensors + SmartStart + windows roll-ups.
The C3-RS-730 has a Gray/Black wire called Second Starter Output at Pin 2 of the 20 Pin connector that can be used
for Pin 85 of your external Starter2 relay set-up. The rest of the Starter2 relay wiring remains the same.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
people re-using diodes from old circuit boards to others paying full price for Viper 5904's w/battery backup + multiple
sensors + SmartStart + windows roll-ups.
The C3-RS-730 has a Gray/Black wire called Second Starter Output at Pin 2 of the 20 Pin connector that can be used
for Pin 85 of your external Starter2 relay set-up. The rest of the Starter2 relay wiring remains the same.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: benzo33
Date Posted: July 14, 2013 at 2:58 PM
Kreg is correct! He helped me with my wife's Sentra! I installed the 730 about a month ago! It's a really go alarm. I'd go with idatalink bypass for your vehicle.
-------------
2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.
-------------
2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.