viper 5704v 97 tahoe

So I am very new to car alarms but an avid mechanic, big to small. I also do a lot of car stereo stuff, so alarms aren't completely foreign to me. Basically, you probably know more about alarms than me, but that does not make me incapable.

So, I am going to be installing the alarm in the subject line into my 2 door, stock keyless entry, 97 Tahoe. I have been searching all afternoon to avoid mistakes and have come up with my wiring guide after triangulation and weeding out the wrong. I have a few points of concern that I was not able to determine with searches. The concerns are as follows:

1. My vehicle NEEDS a second ignition wire. I will get this connection from H3 terminal 7, to the white wire in my ignition harness, but that is the flex relay output (car side of ign), when using this connection, do I need to cute the white wire and connect car side to H3/7 and ignition side to H3/8?

2. In regards to H3/7, do I need to power up H3/2,6, and 9 in order to use it? I planned on powering them all but was unsure if it was necessary. In addition, can I power them all with the same +12v constant?

3. How many inline fuses should I use? There are 3 or 4 wires that require a fuse, can I run one main line from battery with a 20 amp and splice them all into the main?

4. Door locks, oooooh door lock. Apparently I have 5-wire, reversed polarized locks. I found a wiring setup for this, it uses 2 relays, is this correct? Where is the best place to access these wires? In the door? Is there a chance that because I already have stock keyless it may be easier?

5. Lastly, what type of connectors do you all use? I would like to solder when I can, but a lot of the wires splice into a partner. Do you just use vampire clips or w/e they're called? I guess I could strip/solder...?

I will attach my sloppy notes in case I am sounding as confusing as I feel I am. I haven't even started with the accessories, glass break, tilt, window module, backup battery yet. I'm guessing those won't be very challenging.

If you feel the need to chastise me for my lack of knowledge, then feel free. Once you're done, also feel free to help.

Thank you all very much for your time!

A.1. No. H3/8 is not used. Connect H3/7 directly to the uncut Tahoe White IGN2 wire.

A.2. Yes. H3/2 supplies the +12V to the Flex Relay output.

A.3. No. Your Tahoe ignition wires are all thick 30 Amp wires. You should run all 3 H3 power
        wires, with 30 Amp fuses to an appropriate power source. There are two Red wires in the
        ignition harness that should be capable of supplying enough current.

A.4. Yes, two door trucks are Type C. The easy way is to get / use a Directed 451M Door Lock
        module. They cost under $8 and are a neat package that can plug right in to the Vipers
        locks port. Here is a link to the 451M Manual : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
        You should be able to find these wires in the Driver Kick Panel in the door harness coming
        in from the door boot.

A.5. The preferred connection method is solder.   While it does take more time to strip, poke
        & wrap, solder and insulate, it pays off in reliability. There is a sticky or two on this subject.

For the remote start portion of the system, I would recommend connecting the H1/23 Tach
wire and running in Engine Checking = Tach mode. You can use the thicker White Tach wire
found in the instrument panel connector. Test for this wire with the Digital Multi Meter set to
20V AC. The reading should be between 1V ~ 6V AC and rise with RPM's.

Just a heads-up. If you are going to add power window roll-up / roll-down, you will probably
need to power the Brown ACC2 ignition wire. This will require a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and
fuse holder w/ 20 Amp fuse.

If the White Brake wire is difficult to get to at the pedal switch, look for a trailer plug under the
dash or in a harness in the lower DKP.

There is a nice Pictorial by Kenny on a 1995 Tahoe ( 1995 thru 1997 are the same ). Here is a
link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129955&tpn=1&PN=1

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Soldering is fun!

You are amazing person! I'm sure those answers were common sense to you, but what you provided me was some very concise, solid information I could not find elsewhere! You never know what to expect when you are new to a forum. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to check over my stuff and make this process smoother for me. I looked up the soldering technique, that looks pretty easy, and it totally makes sense! Also, I ordered that 451m module you spoke of, these insider "secrets" are why I decided to reach out to someone. I'm guessing that unit will be plug-and-play on the two door lock actuators?

I have one question relating to what you said below:

kreg357 wrote:

---

Just a heads-up. If you are going to add power window roll-up / roll-down, you will probably need to power the Brown ACC2 ignition wire. This will require a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and fuse holder w/ 20 Amp fuse.

---

I looked over my alarm schematics a couple of times and could not find this wire. Is there a brown wire that typically comes off the window module itself? It has yet to arrive so I cannot check. I do not want to task you with a full explanation of why I need to run a relay and I can't seem to find anything from searches. Is there an easy explanation? I ordered one module so I could just roll the windows up on arm or with remote, I do not mind not being able to roll them both down.

Again, thank you for your information! I am going to step out right now and get some work done. I will post an update as I progress.

Sincerely, I am in your debt.

-Troy

Something isn't right.

I got it all hooked up (minus the items needing relays). I went through the menu options and changed everything I needed to. The keyless seems to be working fine, minus not have door module yet.

The remote start works perfectly, as far as turning the truck on. I let it run for a minute and found that the check engine light had engaged with 3 separate codes. I am assuming these are for the transmission. I hope I did not do anything permanent. I cleared them and turned the truck on with key, they did not return immediately, but I shut it off after 10 seconds or so.

I am attaching the wires I used for the install. The only wires I changed from what I posted were, I used the starter in/out on the yellow wire instead of the purple. The only purple I saw was small, in comparison, and I assumed this could not be the correct one. I wont be running it until I resolve this in fear it may further damage my transmission.

Here is how I hooked it up:

Pink Ignition 1: Car pink
Pink/white Ignition 2: Car white
Orange ACC: Orange
Green Starter: Key side yellow
Purple Starter: Car side yellow

They share a large common power so the fact that it is starting leads me to believe it's not a power issue. I believe I am using the wrong ignition wires.   

Here are the pictures:




I thought I had this! Well, it could be worse (I hope)!

Second picture didn't seem to work. Try 2.

Problem solved! I went through the settings and somehow I had changed the Ign. 2 setting to something else. Truck is all good!

Thanks again. Tomorrow I get to do the door lock module you referred me to. Any suggestions with that?

Sorry, I was out of town yesterday. Glad you got it working.

With Type C five wire REV locks, there are several steps in the process.

First find the lock wires in the truck. You can do the first verification with a DMM. Set to 20V DC,
Black lead on chassis ground and Red lead to suspect wire. Press the corresponding button on
the drivers door switch and you should see +12V while pressed. Next is a leap of faith, cut both
wires in a very accessible area ( you will be soldering on the 451M wires ).

Second step : Verify the correct sides ( motor or switch ) of the cut wire(s). With the DMM still set to
20V DC, connect the Red lead to +12V constant and the Black lead to one of the cut wires. If you see
the meter go to +12V ( indicating a chassis ground ), this is the switch side of the wire. If the DMM stays
at 0V, test the other side of the same cut wire. It should show +12V. Mark the switch side of the cut wires.

At this point you could test the locks with a simple, 10A fused, jumper wire. Connect one end to +12V and
touch the other end to the non-switch ( motor ) side of the cut wire. It should lock or unlock the doors,
depending on which wire you are testing. You might have to temporarily reconnect the other lock wire during the test.

Next follow the 451 Type C install guide, making good solder connections at each wire. Here is how it
should look on your truck :

WHITE/ Black - to switch side of cut Light Blue Lock wire
GREEN/ Black - to motor side of cut Light Blue Lock wire

BROWN / Black - to switch side of cut White UnLock wire
Blue/Black - to motor side of cut White UnLock wire

Violet and Violet/Black are joined, go thru a fuse and then connect to +12V constant.

The small gauge 3 wire harness ( Red, Green, Blue ) gets plugged into the Viper locks plug.


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Soldering is fun!

The Brown ACC2 wire I was referring to is in the ignition switch harness. That wire must have power for the
trucks window switches to work normally. However, with the window roll-up module ( 529T ? ), it has a Red
power input wire that it will use to control the windows while the truck is not running. You should be able to
find a convenient power wire in or near the door. The window module should come with an install guide.

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Soldering is fun!

Great instructions. I did find that the testing procedure was incorrect. When testing, if the DMM reads +12v, that is the motor side of the circuit, not the switch side. It took me awhile to find this as I had originally wired it up with the opposite assumption.

All is well now, the other two relays (dome and hatch) were cake after all your help! I have a perfectly working alarm in my old cheap beater.

Thanks!

Good to hear that everything is working OK with the new alarm system.

It's nice to have a cool car in the summer and a warm car in the winter.

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Soldering is fun!

Just when I think all the fun is over! So I went to use my remote start today and it fired up the ignition as usually. Then, just as the starter kicked over, the alarm went off siren/horns and all. Remote told me the trunk is open.

I disarmed the system and it worked fine, the remote start that is. This problem was not present at the beginning.

Any ideas?

One last thing...only setting I modified was under convenience...I tried to set aux 1 to disarm...I believe option 4. My belief was that when I popped the trunk it would auto disarm. That does not seem to be the case. Could that be part of it?

Is the brain for a 5704V fixable? I have an issue system says its in valet mode, "constant blue light" but its not in valet mode, went through the steps and it turns the valet mode off and I get confirmation of that via HD remote yet the light stays on. Could this be a bad unit?
UPDATE! Apparently nobody knew the answer so I ordered a new brain box and that fixed the problem, curiosity got me so I opened the old one up and found a burnt circuit in the form of a black bubbled up pin hole in one of the chips, I suspect I sent positive current through one of the negative hook ups (dome light) because that was the only circuit that did nothing when I tested all of them. I suppose I could've disconnected the blue light and been fine but im glad it all works now and a replacement box was pretty cheap. everything else still worked including the black button on the antenna. So there you go, Does anyone have the schematic's for the 5704V ,so I can find and replace the "black bubbled up pin hole in one of the chips" and get the unit working peoperly again...