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viper 211hv keyless entry channel 2

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134423
Printed Date: July 17, 2025 at 8:26 AM


Topic: viper 211hv keyless entry channel 2

Posted By: mark302
Subject: viper 211hv keyless entry channel 2
Date Posted: June 23, 2013 at 10:00 PM

I have an otherwise perfectly working Viper 211HV keyless entry. I'm trying to make use of the channel 2 output to drive a relay that will operate the trunk release.

This output is described in the installation manual as follows:

H1/18 RED / WHITE channel 2, 200mA (-) output

The manual shows a diagram of a relay where this output is connected as the negative (-) side of a relay, with the positive side of the relay connected to constant +12V.

How I interpret this is when channel 2 is activated, this line will be connected to ground by the 211HV. I believe channel 2 is activated by holding down the "AUX" button on the remote.

With a meter I measured the resistance between H1/18 and ground. Before/during/after holding down the "AUX" button, the resistance always remains at infinity (megaohm territory). For fun, I switched over to measuring voltage on the meter. After holding down "AUX", the voltage jumps from 0V to 0.6V and stays there as long as I hold down "AUX".

Is this really the intended operation of this channel 2 feature? If so, I have no idea how I can use this with a relay to make anything happen. If it went to either 12V or a connection to ground, it would be fine, but I'm at a loss here...



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 24, 2013 at 1:05 AM
With all due respect, too much thought, not enough action.
Measuring off load is irrelevant, try setting up your relay with it's reactive load.
Lord I hate this obsession with DMMs rather than a simple test light.
What vehicle? Rules etc. you may not even need a relay.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: mark302
Date Posted: June 30, 2013 at 10:39 PM
This is on a 1993 Ford Mustang. The wire to pop the trunk release requires +12V.

I wired up a relay, and the relay does activate the trunk release when I manually connect the relay (pin 85) to chassis ground. So I know the relay is wired properly.

So when I hook up the H1/18 wire to the relay (pin 85) and hold down "AUX" on the remote, nothing happens.

This is not surprising, given my unholy DMM testing that gave me doubt that H1/18 really goes to ground when "AUX" is activated.

I'm still uncertain if I'm interpreting this channel 2 feature correctly. This is where I'm trying to fish for help from those who have experience installing a Viper keyless entry.

I'm not willing to "assume" (like the amateur in your sig) that I can just hook this up without a relay (to an output rated at 200mA), nor am I willing to "assume" that the 200mA output described in the manual with a "(-)" is really a (+) output. Would a +0.6V output even activate a 12V relay? Is it merely a coincidence that H1/18 goes to +0.6V when I hold down the "AUX" button?

Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but I'm in favor of the "test first" ideology preached by your sig, even though I'm no "pro". I'm not looking to fry a keyless entry unit that otherwise works fine. It would just be a nice touch to also have a remote triggered trunk release since the unit appears to support it, at least it's implied by the manual.

Thanks for the help!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 01, 2013 at 1:22 AM
Yes its 200mA going to ground state.
The way to test with a DMM is simple.
DMM to 20VDC
Red probe to a constant source.
Black probe to your RED / white aux.
Press and hold relevant button for approx 2 seconds.
You should get a momentary 12V+ reading.
Relay will need a diode across the coil, if not you've probably already fried the circuit.
The average automotive relay needs about 7.5 volts to latch the coil.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.





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