viper 3303 / 1995 ferrari 456gt

Hello fellow forum members,
Having been newly retired, I bought a salvaged Ferrari and I have restored it to working order. To protect my toy, I have chosen the VIPER 3303 based on the wise recommendations of the folks here. I have read the basics, and understand the tools, techniques and time required. I am familiar with the relay, diode and resistors. However, as rare as mechanics are for this car, rarer still are diagrams of any kind. I have the WORKSHOP manual, and there is no wiring diagram in it. I have read on how to find the wires...very important here as apparently Ferrari has a tendency to "build on the fly" and the wires notoriously are mismatched to the labeling.
Scholars, gamers and gurus, I call upon your knowledge to assist me in designing this system.

I have the following:
Vehicle: 1995 Ferrari 456 GT 6sp., 2 door, power locks, power trunk, manual hood.
Alarm: VIPER 3303

Accessories:
DEI 506 T Glass breakage audio sensor
DEI 513 T mini piezo siren x 2
DEI 507 M Digital motion tilt sensor anti jack
DEI 520 T Back-up battery system
DEI 504 Stinger Doubleguard impact sensor (yes...i know, a bit redundant...we can exclude)
Trunk pin
Hood pin

The entire dash and interior is out in anticipation of a true stealth installation...all wires are fully accessible and visible.

Wish list:
Remote door (both doors for simplicity)
Remote trunk
Alarm functions.

Diode isolation to minimize feedback spikes
Relays with harness for anticipated future swap-out (Bosch no longer makes relays...sold to TYCO...they make toys...so much for security)
Resistors (10K ohms purchased)
fuse link to piezos to prevent cut/ground/short from main siren tampering

DO NOT DESIRE
Remote start....I have read some truly disturbing disasters about remote start and manual..FAILED....lets not go there...this was already wrecked...lol
Remote windows...on this model the windows are already glitchy and problematic...I have no intentions of compounding the already poor design.







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MAK

Locks will be simple low current NEG probably blue and white.
Euro cars go for indicators rather than lights, these will be in the steering column loom along with starter for cut, ignition for ignition sense and your power source.
Not a difficult car, once stripped, only one rule, test and verify.
Can't see you needing any relays except maybe for the trunk release*.
Diodes yes but resistors?
*Some also had a solenoid hood release as well. BTW these along with just about everything else electro-mechanical failed.
We are talking Fiat technology which IMO is one step down from French. And most of us here (in Europe) won't touch Citroens and Peugeots.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just a thought but it depends on the year but some had an alarm preparation plug, white somewhere behind the dash with everything on it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie...I swear...I was praying you would answer...was even tempted to PM you, but I wanted to share the Q&A with the community. Thanks for the response...I will go and look for the connector, but not sure what that might be or where behind dash....As for the comments about the reliability...smh. I have come to the conclusion that these cars are like high maintenance Italian supermodels...As for the build quality...abysmal....even KIAs are better imo. But then...in goes the key, and the engine starts...and the magic happens...lol


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MAK

I actually find that insulting to Kia
In Europe they are 4th. tucked in behind the 3 Series, Golf and Focus.
The last 2 are the Euro benchmarks for ride and handling (our versions always have a stiffer suspension) and frankly Hyundai/Kia are one model change away from being up there, blowing away all those Toyotas, Hondas Nissans Fiat Peugeot/Citroen.
That plug was behind the glovebox but it could be anywhere and I was doing a right hand drive model.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

LMAO...I used to laugh at Hyundai, but not any more...Those Korean cars now have respectable build quality and reliability. I am working on a wiring diagram, which I will post up this evening for comments from the forum. I think my year (95) was before the factory alarm harness was introduced . That being said, I must confess to a bit of blasphemy...I have decided to add some RICE SPICE to the jaded ol gal...I got a Pivot illumi start button and I would like to add a blue LED button to the alarm for the dash (the VIPER 3303 has the led on the antenna, which is going to go up by the rear-view mirror...cant see the led in this location). Many will laugh, and some will be shocked... but life goes on....

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MAK

By sheer coincidence, I installed a 5904 into my own car today, they aren't officially sold in Europe (because 900Mhz frequency not approved), peel back the insulation from the control unit (antenna, button and LED) lead cut the pink and join to the NEG side of the LED coming from the alarm brain then join the other POS side to the red.
The other half of the coincidence is I mounted two super bright blue LEDs in my roof lining facing out through the windscreen.
Great minds

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hahahaha....toooo funny! I had the super bright LEDs in mind...but did not specify! Post up the specs on the LED u used...im going to get those . The install wire diagram plan is coming along...but daughter is dragging me off to the movies ...she pre-empted by informing me that she remembers every special time with me...heart just melted...so project paused and off to movies...lol


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MAK

5mm Superb Bright clear blue LEDs don't forget the mounting collars, 3.1Volt forward are directly compatible.
Ha, Ha. I haven't seen the new Star Trek 'cause mine now lives in New Zealand (little sod has seen it twice and keeps rubbing it in).
She's 33 now and we were doing that right through her teens, what girlfriend was going to see Heat with me?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Good morning all, and hello Howie!
Thanks for the specs on the super blue...couple issues..
1....I went for the progressive door config...why open two doors when you only need one?
2....Any suggestions on how to incorporate a ANTI-GRIND feature into the Pivot Illumi start button (in retrospect, I should have gotten the Vipers with the remote start and hard wired the start button to that! )
3. Attached is my proposed wiring diagram. Fellow forum...suggestions welcome...bear in mind that I am an old-timer and this is my first tech attempt...at anything (yeah...I cracked my cherry on an F-car...). I know the correct orientation for the diodes, so pls ignore the directionality shown here.

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MAK

Hello Fellow forum friends!
Special thanks to Howie for getting me this far!
Update on the install...was away on anniversary with the wife and fam, got back this wk and dived in.
So far, I have the unit installed and programmed. The following accessories are connected and functional...Siren, DEI 507M tilt sensor, 506T glass break, and 520T battery backup.
The following features have been installed...Trunk actuator opening/sensor and Hood pin sensor, Horn (with full alarm), and Parking Light.

Issues...
The domelight supervision H1/9 black & white wire is dead...(verified by measuring current and crosschecked by wiring trunk pop to which both the relay and the light respond. This confirms the MM reading of dead wire on the domelight supervision source.

Door Locks...
I have verified Negative Pin triggers and identified the wires communicating between the central locking system.

Howie, you were spot on about the white connector / harness...it has most of the wires I seem to need. However, I still cannot get the Viper 3303 to power the locks. They work fine with the key, but so not seem to respond to the alarm.

Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!

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MAK

Go to the driver's door, assuming it has a key which locks/unlocks the vehicle. Look for the loom in the kick panel coming in from that door. There should be light blue and white wires, lock and unlock, can't remember which is which, test using a test bulb NOT a DMM to ground (throw over the lock striker catch at the rear of that door first).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello Howie!
Hope all is well with you and fam.
Thanks for the follow up. Found the central lock wires communicating between the R & L doors.   Two were Hi/Low with the keyed door lock/unlock. Connected two relays wired for reverse polarity to them and they fired up. Programmed for the longest pulse time...3.5s and that got them going. Now moving on to the ignition and starter kills. Not planning on fuel kill since this beast has two pumps...
I have re-done the wiring and I will encase in split looms. My bench testing is just about done. Thanks so much for the help Howie!

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MAK