1996 chevy k1500 door locks

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134530
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 3:49 PM

Topic: 1996 chevy k1500 door locks

Posted By: fosgate2001
Subject: 1996 chevy k1500 door locks
Date Posted: July 12, 2013 at 10:55 PM

I have a blue wire and a white wire in the drivers kick that control the door locks.. Wondering if anyone know are these positive or negative pulse door locks??

The alarm sends out negative pulses for the lock and unlock So wondering if I have to reverse the polarity or not??

Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 6:36 AM

It is going to be either Type A or Type C, depending on a few factors. These factors are whether the vehicle
has Factory Remote Keyless Entry and whether it's a 2 Door or a 4 Door.

The general rule for this style GM vehicle is Factory Remote Keyless Entry = Type A.
Without Factory Remote Keyless Entry : 2 Door = Type C 4 Door = Type A

As always it is best to test the system. I would recommend Directed Tech Tip #1041 document as a guide for
plenty of good info on all types of door locking systems. See Page 3 for Type A / Type C testing. Here is a Link :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1213

A Directed 451M door lock module will make the install easier, no matter which type of locks you have.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 9:48 AM

It may be unprofessional but I take a wire fused at 5 or 10 amps and touch it to one of the wires. If my fuse blows then I know I need relays. If the door locks work and the fuse didn't blow then I know it is just simple 12v. Just make sure your jumper wire's 12v source is rated at higher than the fuse you are testing with. Otherwise you will be trying to figure out which fuse in the truck you just blew.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 10:13 AM

Hey, that's my quick test too! Fuse blows = Type C or Locks work = Type A

Saves cutting a wire or pulling a door panel, doesn't hurt anything (if you are on the right wire) and the jumpers' fuse is cheap.

posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 10:53 AM

Kreg I have the exact same setup except i even put an old program button inline to keep my fingers away from potential sparks. Low amperage it wouldn't spark much but I am a bit of a baby. LOL I feel we should clarify for future readers. This method is for a vehicle of a known wiring type and all considerations as to all possible outcomes are being protected against. We are not blindly jumping power to an unknown wire here. Test the wire for 12v before jumping anything to it. You would never use this type of method in a modern car unless again you KNOW every possible outcome and wiring type. /end disclaimer posted_image

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 1:12 PM

Agreed! There are a number of quick-n-dirty tests we do but there is always a certain amount of actual DMM testing that happens first. All comes from experience ( and the University of Hard-Knocks...)

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and Evil Laugh

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Soldering is fun!