2006 ford f150 pats bypass suggestions

Ok new user, I have a 2006 Ford F150 that I am trying to install a bypass for my remote start addon. Bought a Code alarm CA4051 and got it installed in my truck and it works as advertized so there is nothing wrong with the remote start itself. My problem is that I cannot make the PKALL or the $7 DEI 555F to work to bypass the PATS on my truck. I have given up trying to make them work for the time being, but I did try to follow the instructions and make it work. I am now using a Express kit universal bypass to use the remote start by hiding a key inside a box in the truck but I would rather use a data bypass system like the PKALL so that I can start the truck without a key inside. If anyone has had experience with this particular truck and have used another product with success or if you have gotten the PKALL to work on this truck I would like to know. For the record I have 3 different keys for this truck and I have tried all 3 to program the PKALL. If any one has any suggestions I would appreciate some feedback. Thank you in advance.

You realize you have to use two keys to program pkall correct

Yes, I do understand that I have to use 2 keys to program the PKALL. I have 3 keys. At least one of these is a clone of the other. If all 3 are a clone of the first then I could have a problem. But I have attempted to program the PKALL with 2 keys.

What happens when you try to program the pkall

As far as I can tell, the LED on the PKALL remains solid. I put in the first key, turn to On, wait 5 sec. Remove 1st key, turn second key to on, wait 5 sec, remove second key. Activate remote start, PATS light flashes to prevent engine starting. Not sure if I am doing something wrong or there is another procedure.

PKALL's can be touchy to program. I remember doing a 2007 F150 a while ago, Used a Directed 1100F which is basically the same as an ADS TB with the ADS TB FM2 firmware. Worked great ( they always do ).

Anyway, sometimes the install guides have the RX and TX wire locations mixed up. For your truck, it's a 4 pin connector at the ignition switch. TX is at Pin 3 and is WHITE/ Light Green and RX is at Pin 4 and is Gray/Orange.

You obviously have the correct Viper (-) Status Output going to the PKALL's Blue/White GWR wire.

Other than that, you must have two, unique, working transponder keys to add the bypass module. Timing is very important, too.

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Soldering is fun!

Looks like I got the wiring connections correct. No kidding that they are touchy to program. Would it be better to just cut the thing out and go with a 1100F?

I prefer them on all 40 bit Fords. Easy to setup and program, very reliable and the sub $20 price can't be beat. Another big selling point it that a Factory Reset will allow you multiple programming attempts and even use on another vehicle if you upgrade to another 40 bit Ford.

Are any of your three working keys original Ford keys? Also, it's a good idea to make solder connections on these transponder wires.

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Soldering is fun!

All 3 are OEM Ford Keys. Not really sure which one is the original but the dealer made copies for sure. Now that I have looked at it looks like that is what I am going to do, since my next truck will likely be a Ford truck. I will let you guys know how it works.

Yes, please keep us posted.

While the 1100F install guide stops around 2006, I've used them on many newer Ford vehicles ( 2010 F150's and even a 2012 Fusion / MKZ ). You can use the ADS TB install guide as a reference on newer Fords ( non 80 bit systems ).

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Soldering is fun!

Sigh, either I have REALLY bad luck with these bypass modules, or my truck cannot be bypassed without a key. I did order and attempt to use the 1100F as recommended, and I have the module in Type 2 programming. I have tried multiple times to program the bypass and the LED remains RED indicating that it is incorrectly programmed. I know that I have the TX and RX wires correct, GWR is hooked up correctly, IGN is hooked correctly and the unit has 12 volts. I am following the instructions to the letter. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.

There are a few things you can try.

First verify all your connections are good solder joints.

Do a Factory Reset on the module and then lock in the 2 Blink, W2W, Standard Mode selection between each
programming attempt.

Being as you have three keys and there is a chance that there could be a clone in the mix ( hopefully only one,
max ), you might have to label the keys and try several times with all the possible different key combinations.

Remember that timing is critical. Sometimes going by the vehicles security light is best, other times watching the
1100F's LED works and even going by a straight 4 second count between steps might work. Don't forget to press
the programming button after taking the second key out. Also, just jumping the Ignition wire instead of an actual
remote start can aid in the programming timing.

On the newer Ford's ( 2011 & up ), getting the bypass's chassis ground from the transponder connector is necessary.
It won't hurt to try that, too.

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Soldering is fun!