clifford 5102x starter input

I am installing a Clifford 5102x 2.2 in my wife's 2005 Ford Expedition using an XK05 (PTKI). I installed a remote start before on a Chevy Avalanche, but it was just a remote start, no alarm. I guess my first question is, can I install the Clifford 5102x and only use the remote start function. I really don't care to hook up the alarm or the door locks.

I noticed that the Clifford System has a Starter Output(+) and Starter Input(+) for the starter kill instead of just the starter wire like the last system I installed which had no alarm. I understand that the output is the car side of the starter kill and the input is the key side of the starter kill. I know that these should be connected as such into the RED / lt blue wire at the ignition harness, but will the Starter Input be required if I am not using any of the alarm functions? From my research I thought this only killed the starter if the alarm was triggered.

If I am only using the remote starting functions of the 5102x that I only need the basic connections at the H1, H2, H3 harnesses such as:

H1 Main Harness - 12 pin connector
H1/2 Red    to (+) 12V Constant Input
H1/5 Black to (-) Chassis Ground
H1/11 White to Parking Light Output

H2 Harness - 18 pin connector
H2/8 Br/Blk to (-) Horn Honk Output
H2/15 Grey to (-) Hood Pin Input
H2/17 Brown to (+) Brake Shutdown Input

H3 Remote Start Harness
H3/1 Pink   to (+) IGN 1
H3/3 Orange to (+) Accessory Output
H3/4 Violet to (+) Starter Output
H3/5 Green to (+) Starter Input (SEE QUESTION ABOVE)
H3/6 Red    to (+) 12V Constant
H3/9 Is this required for what I am doing?

Did I miss any connections. I will test everything with a DMM before making final connections.

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Nooney

Hi Nooney!

If you don't want Starter Kill, don't cut the vehicles RED / Light Blue Starter wire and only connect the R/S's
Violet wire.

You must also connect the R/S's H3/9 RED / Black wire to +12V constant power. It supplies power to the ACC and
Starter output wires.

The H2/18 Neutral Safety Switch wire must be connect to chassis ground and the Neutral Safety Switch must
be plugged in and set to ON.

Other things:

Make sure the internal Parking Light jumper/fuse is set to the correct (+) polarity for your vehicle.

Running in Tach mode will provide more reliable remote start-ups. Connect the H2/9 Violet/White Tach wire to a
good Tach source, change the programming to Engine Checking = Tach Mode and do the Tach Learn procedure.
Follow the install guide to make the Tach Mode programming switch-over automatically.

You might have to "manually stimulate" the R/S's H1/8 (-) Door Pin wire by touching it to chassis ground to make
any programming changes.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I would also connect the lock/unlock since ford factory remotes don't function while the vehicle is running.

Kreg357 and Blanx218,

Thanks very much for your responses. I am new to this and your help is greatly appreciated. I have learned so much from this forum.

So I can just leave the green starter input wire disconnected completely?

For the connection to the door locks do I connect H1/8 Door Trigger Input (N/C) to the black and yellow door trigger wire at the VSM which is N/C according to the directwire diagram I found on Designtech.com. The wiring diagram I found on 12volt says to use the dome supervision wire for the door trigger. The reason I ask is that the "Directwire" diagram lists the wires for the door lock/unlock and lock/unlock motor (4 separate wires). I just wanted to make sure that I didn't need to mess with any of these 4 wires and that the door trigger input is all that I need to be concerned with.

I hadn't planned on hooking up a tach wire but it looks like I can just grab a wire off any of the fuel injectors if need be. Should I see if the virtual tach works correctly first?

Nooney

You'll want to connect the green lock wire to the pink / YELLOW(-) lock wire either at the VSM or drivers kick panel and the blue unlock wire to the pink/green(-) also at the VSM or drivers kick.

As far as the door trigger, since you're not using the system as an alarm, the only thing you need to do is temporarily ground the green door trigger wire in the main harness during programming. Once all features are programmed the green wire would be disconnected and not used. This needs to be done because the system needs to think the door is open to allow you into programming mode.

And yes you can just leave the green starter input disconnected

I got everything hooked up yesterday and it is working well. I only have two issues that I need some help with (FYI. I still have the door trigger hooked up to Ground at this point and I don't have the siren connected):

1. If I unlock the truck with the factory fob OR the keypad on the door and then get inside and crank the truck with the key the horn starts blowing a few seconds after the truck starts. The blue light is still blinking when I enter the truck as if it didn't disarm when unlocked with the factory fob. I am assuming this is the alarm function of the Clifford system because the factory alarm should disable when I unlock the truck. I can hit unlock on the Clifford remote and the horn stops blowing. How can I remedy this since my wife uses the keypad frequently? Is there a wire on the alarm unit that I can connect to ground to totally disable the Clifford alarm or is this because I still have the door trigger grounded?

2. The door lock and unlock work fine but I get no confirmation chirp from the horn after locking the doors. It still chirps with the factory fob. I really like the horn chirp upon locking so I can hear if the truck is locked at night when it is out of sight. The horn honk output is connected to the dark blue wire at the horn switch(-). Is this a programming issue or is the chirp supposed to come from the siren (not connected)? As a quick fix could I just connect the horn trigger to the unlock circuit from the VSM, also (-)?

Thanks again for everyone's help. My install went very smoothly thanks to all the information from this forum.

Nooney

1. If u use the factory fob for anything whatsoever the Clifford system doesn't know what you're doing so u will set it off like u did. When u want to use the keypad you will set off the new alarm every time. So its either use the Clifford remote to lock and unlock or use the keypad or factory fob to lock or unlock.

2. You have to program the horn honk output to chirp the horn when you lock. It will also chirp twice when you unlock. It should be in menu 1 of the programming.

Is there a way to totally disable the alarm function of the Clifford unit so that it would never arm? I may just swap the Clifford brain out with a remote start only brain if I run across one cheap. Are there any remote start only brains that would have the same remote start harness connector. I check my python brain and it has a slightly different connector for the remote start harness, all other connections looked the same.

Nooney

You can put the system in valet mode. that will still allow the lock and unlock and remote start functions just no security features

Thanks. That worked great but I lost the horn chirp with lock and unlock. Is there any way to get those back in valet mode?

Not via programming but you can use the lock/unlock wires (diode isolated) or just lock if all youre looking for is a confirmation its locked. have lock or both trigger the horn