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viper 5901/ dball immobilizer needed

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134578
Printed Date: April 19, 2024 at 6:01 PM


Topic: viper 5901/ dball immobilizer needed

Posted By: bojangle
Subject: viper 5901/ dball immobilizer needed
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 3:27 PM

I have a 2006 GMC Envoy I am trying to install my DEI viper 5901, DBall Immobilizer with Smart Start. I've went over the wires and connections several times as this vehicle is a pretty straight forward install. Problem I'm having is there's no power to my ignition wire when I try to remote start. everything works fine as far as the unlock/lock function. When I press the remote start the stereo turns on, HVAC fan, dash lights, everything as if its going to start but, won't turn over. tries 3 times then hits me with an error on the remote. I tried the shut down diagnostics but it's not giving me a reason. testing with my volt meter shows no power to the pink (ignition) wire. any ideas on why or what would cause this and what I could look for? been searching for a few days on this issue so any help is appreciated. thanks guys ~Nick~



Replies:

Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 3:49 PM
sorry about tittle, was to be "help needed" not just "needed"




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 3:58 PM
Start with the basics. Are all three power wires on the H3 harness connected to +12V constant ( Red, RED / White and RED / Black )? Pull the fuses and do a continuity check. Use your DMM to verify +12V at the H3 connector pin for those 3 pins.





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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 4:03 PM
yes checked all 12v constant and continuity check




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 5:18 PM
Is this w2w or d2d. Could you list your connection of the 5901, ball, and car. Is the dbal flashed with the correct firmware?

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Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 5:44 PM
This is how i have the conn with D2D
     H1/1 RED / Wh (-) Trunk Release Out N/A
o     H1/2 Red (+) 12V Constant In to 12V Batt
o     H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Out to red of siren
o     H1/4 WHITE/ Br Light Flash Iso N/A
o     H1/5 Black (-) Ground to common ground
o     H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger N/A
o     H1/7 Blue (-) Instant Trigger N/A
o     H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input to Bypass Module
o     H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) Dome Light Out N/A
o     H1/10 WHITE/ Blue (-) Remote Start N/A
o     H1/11 White Parking Light Out N/A
o     H1/12 Orange (-) Ground-When-Armed (GWA) Output N/A

AUX HARNESS
o     H2/1 Lt. GREEN/ Blk (-) Factory Disarm Out N/A
o     H2/2 Lt. GREEN/ Wh (-) Factory Arm Out N/A
o     H2/3 WHITE/ Vio Aux 1 Out
o     H2/4 Violet/Blk Aux 2 Out
o     H2/5 WHITE/ Blk Aux 3 Out
o     H2/6 Lt. Blue 2nd Unlock Out
o     H2/7 Gray/Blk Wait-to-Start (diesel only) N/A
o     H2/8 BROWN / Blk Factory Horn Out (Optional) to Ignition Harness (“IGN”) D4 (horn relay control)
o     H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Out & Ign 1 input sense to IGN C6 (Pink) AND DBall Pink
o     H3/2 RED / Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 RED / Wh
o     H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange
o     H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 (harness side of cut wire)
o     H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 (key side of cut wire)
o     H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (12V constant)
o     H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 Pink/Wh
o     H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o     H3/9 RED / Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red
o     H3/10 N/C

o     Additional Relay
*     Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
*     Pin 86 – Common ground
*     Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
*     Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

R/S In
o     1 BLACK/ Wh (-) Neutral Safety Switch In to common ground
o     2 Violet/Wh Tach In to Module Violet/Wh Tach Out
o     3 Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Wire to Brake Switch White (above pedal)
o     4 Gray (-) Hood Pin Switch to Hood Pin Switch.
o     5 Blue/Wh Rear Defog Out N/A

R/S Aux Out
o     1 N/A
o     2 N/A
o     3 N/A
o     4 N/A
o     5 N/A
Door Lock
o     1 N/A
o     2 N/A
o     3 N/A

I had the DBall module flashed at Vandenburg (local shop in Holland MI)
I then tried W2W but still same results, though W2W I'm confused about with the Ground While Running wire. I had that to the blue status wire on the viper as i figured the Ground While Armed was different. thanks for the help as I'm lost and the shop wants $375 to look at it.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 7:31 PM

In the D2D mode the only wire connected to the car is the Violet / YELLOW from the 14 pin connector to the car diagnostic connector. You have listed the pink from the 10 pin connector connected.

Did the DBALL program correctly as described in the instructions?

Not sure about your relay setup.  Still looking that one.

H3/7 should be connected to a White wire THAT meters out as a Ignition 2. You have listed pink/white, maybe a typo.



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Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 7:45 PM
sorry H3/7 is connected to white not pink/white. Do you know how i could wire that relay any differently? way cool with the fast replies by the way. thank you very much.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 21, 2013 at 8:00 PM

Use h2/12 orange with the relay for 2nd accessory.   H2/12 would connect to pin 85, pin 87 out to 2nd acc.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp   Convert a NEG to POSITIVE

Did the DBALL program as described?   Is the DBALL wires as shown for D2D ?



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Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 22, 2013 at 6:30 AM
yes the dball was programmed as instructed I'll swap those pin outs on the relay tomorrow after work and chime in with the results, thank you again




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: July 22, 2013 at 11:06 AM
I don't have the vehicle info in front of me so you may it connected correctly, but H3/2(RED / White), H3/6(Red), and H3/9(RED / Black) should all be connected to a 12v constant. They are all inputs for the ignition circuits.

Did you test all of the factory wires to make sure they were correct?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 22, 2013 at 7:11 PM
I am about to go tackle that relay situation. offroadzj- yes i did check everything with my DMM before making connections. thanks for the help guys I'll post back in a few...




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 22, 2013 at 8:17 PM
Next question,  How are you connections made?  Solder, crimp, or taped?

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When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 4:24 PM
i had them with butt connectors then read that was not a good idea due to the amount of current the ignition wires need/use so i soldered them. almost done with the relay set up.




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 4:52 PM
[QUOTE=smokeman1]

Use h2/12 orange with the relay for 2nd accessory.   H2/12 would connect to pin 85, pin 87 out to 2nd acc.




H2/12, the manual shows 'h2' has 8 pins. on the harness it does have more as remote start input and aux are added to that harness so just to verify which color and function am I using H2/12 for?





Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 5:22 PM
okay so swapping the pins on the 2nd acc relay still same results no power going to the pink ignition wire




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 5:28 PM
presumably the dball immobilizer may be causing the issue. Problem is I'm not 100% sure where the wires go as far as going W2W




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 8:02 PM
i had an old viper 5701 brain sitting around so i decided to swap them out and it fired right up. looks the brain took a doodie...




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: July 23, 2013 at 9:14 PM
Seems pretty typical of many DEI units lately...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: bojangle
Date Posted: July 24, 2013 at 12:08 PM
is there a way to update the firmware on the brain itself?





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