2009 tacoma and python 4206p

I have a 2009 Tacoma and I recently purchased a Python 4206P and Xpresskit PKALL through Walmart.com for a total cost of $188 bucks. Not a bad price at all. I was hoping the device would come with full installation instructions but it's the "Quick Reference Install Guide" which is not very helpful. The instructions say to download the full guide at directech.com which of course you have to be a dealer. I was hoping that since Walmart sold this item that it would be user friendly but I was wrong.

So this isn't the first remote control I've installed but it would be the first without reasonable instructions.

So what I've done to date is located the 4204V instruction manual (the 4206 replaced the 4204 as far as I understand) and the pinouts appear to be the same. Unfortunately the instructions are still cryptic at best. The best instructions I could locate were for a Python 513 but the wiring harnesses are different and nomenclature as well.

My skill level is suited to do the install, meaning I am a certified solderer (for the military) and I plan to use heat shrink on every connector that I can remove the pin as to slip the heat shrink tubing over. If that isn't possible then I'm using electrical tape unfortunately. And I'm pretty anal about where the components are located, when someone looks under the dash they should see anything that doesn't look as if it were factory installed. I expect the install to take all day due to making it look good.

So I've looked at the Toyota 2010 installation that was posted on this forum, nice photos and I'll take some photos as well and post a thread on how to for this product once I'm done with it.

First some details about what I have and what I want to function when I'm done...

1) 2009 Toyota Tacoma Dual Cab Prerunner (2x4). Factory alarm system is fully functional.
2) After connecting the Python 4206P I want the Python remote to completely replace my factory key fob remotes to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the factory system.
3) The remote should start the truck (the entire reason for getting it) and the A/C or Heat should come on providing I left it on. The parking lights should come on while the engine is running.

I have several questions that I have been unable to find answers and I'm hoping I can get that here.

1) What are the wires that need to be connected from the 4206?
2) Do I need any relays to connect this setup?
3) If I need to use any relays, do I need to use a diode across the coil?

So taking a stab at it here is what I believe I need to hook up to achieve the results I desire.

1) Main Harness
H1/1 +12VDC Constant to a constant 12VDC
H1/2 Ground
H1/3 Horn (not needed, expect factory alarm system to honk horn if needed)
H1/4 Light Flash Isolation Wire PIN 87a of relay (*Question)
H1/5 Pin 30 of Light Flash Relay (*Question)
H1/6 500ma Grounded when Armed Output (not needed)

* Question: The Light Flash has two outputs and is fused by a 10AM fuse in the 4206P and the polarity depends on the location of the fuse. The instructions state I can pull up to 10 Amps max and I doubt the Parking Light switch (-) green wire could handle that load so I'm looking at hooking up the connection there. But which connector is to be used, H1/4 or H1/5? Of course if I don't get an answer I will place a meter on it to test it out, but it would be nice to know ahead of time.

I'm finding discrepancies in the main harness from the following site page: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004~PN~1
Specifically the wires don't line up as listed, although I doubt they technically make a difference. The Starters are backwards, Ignition and 12VDC are not exactly correct. I'm using the electrical wiring diagram from the Tacoma manual as reference.

So this H3 harness is really messing me up. I have marked up what I believe it should be but I'm not positive. And I have two starter wires, only one is addressed here.

2) Remote Start Harness
H3/1 + Ignition 1 Input/Output (connect to blue / YELLOW at ignition switch pin 1)
H3/2 +12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex relays (connect to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5)
H3/3 +Accessory Output (connect to WHITE/ green at ignition switch pin 2)
H3/4 +Starter Output (connect to BLACK/ white at ignition switch pin 3)
H3/5 +12VDC Ignition 1 Input (connect to WHITE/ blue at ignition switch pin 4)
H3/6 Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output (connect to BLACK/ red at ignition switch pin 6)
H3/7 Flex Relay Input 87a (if req.) of Flex Relay (not needed)
H3/8 +12VDC Accessory/Starter Input (connect to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5)

3) Axillary/Shutdown Harness
H2/1 Flex Relay Control Output (not needed)
H2/2 Neutral Safety Input (grounded)
H2/3 2nd Status/Rear Defroster (not needed)
H2/4 Factory Alarm Disarm Output (Drivers Kick Panel GREEN/ black)
H2/5 Trunk Release Output (not needed)
H2/6 (-)Door Input (not needed)
H2/7 Dome Light Output (not needed)
H2/8 Empty
H2/9 Status Output (not needed)
H2/10 Ignition 1 Output (not needed)
H2/11 Aux 3 Output (not needed)
H2/12 (+)Door Input (not needed)
H2/13 Aux 1 Output (not needed)
H2/14 Aux 2 Output (not needed)
H2/15 Aux 4 Output (not needed)
H2/16 (+)Brake Shutdown Input (connected to blue wire at dash fuse box plug 1D pin 13)
H2/17 Hood Pin Input (need to run wire and install pin switch)
H2/18 Starter Output (not needed)
H2/19 Factory Horn Input (connected to GREEN/ red wire at dash fuse box plug 1C pin 10)
H2/20 Diesel Wait to Start Input (not needed)
H2/21 Activation Input (don't know what this does but maybe it's like pressing the key fob start engine button?)
H2/22 Accessory Output (not needed)
H2/23 Tachometer Input (not needed, using virtual Tach)
H2/24 Factory Alarm Arm Output (Drivers Kick Panel purple wire)

Door Lock Connector: I don't believe I need this as the arm/disarm should lock/unlock the doors. Is that true? If not then I know how to connect these wires if needed.

And for the PKALL, I only have one question, where to hook up the "While Running" blue/white wire to the 4206P?

So I think I've laid out all the information and questions I have, not that this wasn't enough.

I did purchase five automotive relays should I require any.

And Thanks for any help.

-Joe

Update: I know where to connect the PKALL blue/white wire, it will connect to H2/9 Status.

Too bad I cannot edit my own postings or I'd make that change.

Some updates and questions answered...

H1/4 won't be needed for your install. Verify that the Parking Light Jumper/Fuse is set to the (-) position and connect H1/5
to the Tacoma's Green (-) wire at the headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18.

H3/1 + Ignition 1 Input/Output to BLACK/ Red at ignition switch
H3/2 +12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex relays      to WHITE/ Red at ignition switch pin 5
H3/3 +Accessory Output       to WHITE/ green at ignition switch pin 2
H3/4 +Starter Output  to GREEN/ Black at ignition switch
H3/5 +12VDC Ignition 1 Input  to WHITE/ Red at ignition switch
H3/6 Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output       to BLACK / YELLOW at ignition switch
H3/7 Flex Relay Input 87a (if req.) of Flex Relay (not needed)
H3/8 +12VDC Accessory/Starter Input to WHITE/ Red at ignition switch pin 5


H2/9 Status Output goes to PKALL While Running Blue/White wire.

You will need to power the Tacoma's Starter2 wire with one of your extra 30/40A SPDT relays. Here is the wiring :
Relay Pin 85 to H2/18 Starter Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant thru 20A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma BLACK/ White (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate

1N4004 diode goes between Relay Pins 85 & 86 with band towards Pin 86. ( IHOH )

Program the R/S for double Disarm pulse ( Menu 2, Item 7, Option 2 ). If you use the Arm / Disarm wires, the truck will
Unlock before a remote start. If the Factory Alarm does not go off with just a remote start, it might be better to use the
locks outputs instead of the alarm outputs. Or you can use Menu 3, Item 16, Option 2 to relock the doors.

Do yourself a favor and run in Tach Mode ( Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4 ). Connect H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
wire to BLACK/ White (ac) @ OBD2 data link connector, Pin 9. Perform the Tach learn process.

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Soldering is fun!

First, thanks very much for the speedy response. I do appreciate it.

Now for my comments and questions...

kreg357 wrote:

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Program the R/S for double Disarm pulse ( Menu 2, Item 7, Option 2 ).

---

I had planned to do that but glad you put that in for consistency.

kreg357 wrote:

---

If you use the Arm / Disarm wires, the truck will
Unlock before a remote start. If the Factory Alarm does not go off with just a remote start, it might be better to use the
locks outputs instead of the alarm outputs. Or you can use Menu 3, Item 16, Option 2 to relock the doors.

---

I may be under the wrong impression, I thought the doors could be triggered via the arm/disarm lines. Maybe I read too much into it but I take it that is not the same as using the remote Lock/Unlock commands? I have no problems connecting up the two wires for the door lock and unlock, I just want to do it right.

kreg357 wrote:

---

Do yourself a favor and run in Tach Mode ( Menu 3, Item 2, Option 4 ). Connect H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
wire to BLACK/ White (ac) @ OBD2 data link connector, Pin 9. Perform the Tach learn process.

---

That sounds fine to me as well and I will heed your advice. Now all I need is a diode and a few female spade connectors which I'll pick up tomorrow.

Again, Thanks.

Diodes should be available at Radio Shack.

The Python will output a Lock or Unlock pulse with the corresponding button press. It will also output a Arm or Disarm
pulse at the same time. However, with a remote start, it will output a Disarm pulse about the same time as it turns on
the (-) Status Output ( prior to bringing up Ignition ).   Connected the way you planned would unlock the doors and turn
off the Factory Alarm with a remote start.   You truck would be disarmed and unlocked, unless your relocked it.

Actually, reviewing everything and with the fact that your truck has the Factory Alarm, here is a better way to do it. Use the
Pythons door lock outputs instead of the alarm outputs. Connect them to same vehicle wires you listed . Set the Unlock
output for a double pulse ( Menu 1, Item 5, Option 2 ) . That will take care of the Factory Alarm for vehicle entry / exit. Use
H2/3 2nd Status/Rear Defroster as 2nd Status ( default setting ) to turn off the Factory Alarm during a remote start by
connecting it to the vehicles Keysense wire : Keysense     GREEN/ Black (-)     @ ignition key switch, white 2 pin plug, pin 1     
This will turn off the Factory Alarm during a remote start but leave the doors locked.

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Soldering is fun!

@kreg357

Just to repeat what you said so I clearly understand, you believe a better way to setup the installation is to do the following:
1) Door Unlock to ("Factory Alarm Disarm" Drivers Kick Panel GREEN/ black) and program it as indicated above.
2) Door Lock ("Factory Alarm Arm" Drivers Kick Panel purple wire)
3) Do not connect H2/4 and H2/24.

As for the Key Sense wire, I already have that connected to the PKALL Key Sense so would I still need to hook up the Status Output 2 wire? That would be kind of like shorting out the two wires on the PKALL "While running" and "Key Sense" lines.

Since I don't have to cut any wires to perform this installation I will rough it in today, check the wire lengths I was provided and get the placement correct. I expect to do everything except actually connect the RS and PKALL Bypass. I still need to lay my hands on a diode, I should have a few in the basement but if not then I'll have to go buy a package of them.

So I think that almost wraps up the question and answer game. Please let me know if I understood you correctly.

-Joe

I don't mean to butt in on Kreg's explanation, but a little correction. You don't need a double pulse to disarm on a Tacoma. Connect as he stated but do NOT program for double pulse as the first pulse unlocks the drivers door and disarms both. The second pulse strickly unlocks the passenger door. Doing it this way will give you 2 stage unlock(first unlock press disarms and unlocks drivers, second press unlocks them all just like the factory remote would).

Also, if you are using the 2nd status wire for your bypass, just use the 2/9 status output for the keysense instead. They both do the same thing.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

---

I don't mean to butt in on Kreg's explanation, but a little correction. You don't need a double pulse to disarm on a Tacoma. Connect as he stated but do NOT program for double pulse as the first pulse unlocks the drivers door and disarms both. The second pulse strickly unlocks the passenger door. Doing it this way will give you 2 stage unlock(first unlock press disarms and unlocks drivers, second press unlocks them all just like the factory remote would).

Also, if you are using the 2nd status wire for your bypass, just use the 2/9 status output for the keysense instead. They both do the same thing.

---

I understand the single and dual pulse and I'd rather use the single pulse so I have the same type of control over the door locks, as in the factory remote.

As for the keysense... My original plan is to use H2/9 to connect to the PKALL bypass. I originally didn't want to use the 2nd Status Output but I am being told I should hook up a Status Output to the Keysense line which I do not understand. I believe the PKALL would take care of this signal, am I not correct? The PKALL has a few connections, the D2D connection which mates with the RS electronics and the Rx, Tx, Keysense, and the last wire is "While Running" which connects to the RS Status Output H2/9. I believe that when the H2/9 signal goes low that a low signal from the PKALL is applied to the Keysense line. I wouldn't be surprised if this was simply a pass through line in the first place. Does this sound correct?

Yes, that appears basically correct. Fortin lists the modules Keysense wire as both Input and Output. During module programming, the Keysense wire is monitored as an input. During remote start bypass operation, it is used as an output to make the vehicle think a key is in the lock cylinder.

Leave the Pythons 2nd Status wire off and test the PKALL's operation by setting the Factory Alarm and trying a remote start. The PKALL's Keysense wire should disable the alarm.

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Soldering is fun!

You are probably right. I am not familiar with the PKALL as we use Idatalink bypasses, and on those the bypass takes care of disarming the factory alarm. Chances are the PKALL does the same. Bottom line is the truck needs to see keysense whether the PKALL does it or you add it yourself. Simple enough, try it without a status to keysense connection first. Worst case, the factory alarm doesn't turn off and you go back and hook it up...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks guys, I do appreciate it. Too bad I have to add one relay but that's the breaks. I already have the console taken apart so I can start identifying and attaching wires and I'll start with the steering column first.

I've been putting this entire installation off until I knew my daughter would be getting her drivers license, at which time the car I'm giving her will no longer be used by me to go to work. I've got 7 days before she gets her car and I'm in the truck all the time. The weather is good here so I will hopefully be able to wire up the entire system today, but if not well I have time.

I will post my results.

I have the hardest part yet to come, the location of the On/Off Safety Switch. I have no idea were I'll put it but the cable that came with the unit is about 12" long, not very long at all. I could extend it if needed but I don't think I want to put it in the glove box. I might make a bracket for it and place it under the drivers side dash but I didn't see any place to put it otherwise.

Well I've connected all the wires except the ground (need a terminal lug) and to run the control module flat cable into the windshield. I was going to wait on that one until I have the unit functional first.

So it's taken me about 5 hours so far over two afternoons, but I've got to tell you, it takes a long time to locate those wires when you're not sure, and then to remove the wire jacket and solder each wire in. I used no connecters except the ones for the relay and hood pin switch, everything else was soldered.

So tomorrow will be the big day when I finish hooking it up and programming the PKALL and then the RS. I'll be glad to button up the dash.

I prefer to wire tie the switch in the fuse box. This way it won't get hit by accident yet you can get to it if needed.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Okay so now I've got it working, sort of...

When I press the Door Unlock, ALL the doors unlock. This is with the setting at factory 1 pulse. No complaint as I'm actually fine with it. But no beep from the truck as in my factory remote.

When I press the Door Lock, All the doors lock. But no beep from the truck as in my factory remote.
The door locks operate as if I operated the switch from the driver door. One press each.

I think the arm/disarm is hosed up. If I fixed that then I'd be content.

Here is how I have everything connected right now...

1)     Main Harness
H1/1 to H3/5 (+12VDC Constant)
H1/2 Frame Ground
H1/3 Horn (not needed, expected factory alarm system to honk horn if needed)
H1/4 Light Flash Isolation Wire PIN 87a of relay (not used)
H1/5 Pin 30 of Light Flash Relay (Green Parking Light Switch wire)
H1/6 500ma Grounded when Armed Output (not used)

2)     Remote Start Harness
H3/1 + Ignition 1 Input/Output (connected to BLACK/ red at ignition switch pin 5)
H3/2 +12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex relays (connected to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5)
H3/3 +Accessory Output (connected to WHITE/ green at ignition switch pin 2)
H3/4 +Starter Output (connect to GREEN/ black at ignition switch)
H3/5 +12VDC Ignition 1 Input (connected to WHITE/ blue at ignition switch pin 4)
H3/6 Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output (connect to blue / YELLOW at ignition switch pin 6)
H3/7 Flex Relay Input 87a (if req.) of Flex Relay (not used)
H3/8 +12VDC Accessory/Starter Input (connect to WHITE/ red at ignition switch pin 5)

3)     Starter 2 Relay Pin 85 to H2/18 Starter Output
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V Constant thru 30A fuse at H3/5
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma BLACK/ White (+) @ ignition switch pin 3
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulated

4)     Axillary/Shutdown Harness
H2/1 Flex Relay Control Output (not used)
H2/2 Neutral Safety Input (grounded)
H2/3 2nd Status/Rear Defroster (not used)
H2/4 Factory Alarm Disarm Output (Drivers Kick Panel GREEN/ black)
H2/5 Trunk Release Output (not used)
H2/6 (-)Door Input (not used)
H2/7 Dome Light Output (not used)
H2/8 Empty
H2/9 Status Output connected to PKALL "While Running" line
H2/10 Ignition 1 Output (not used)
H2/11 Aux 3 Output (not used)
H2/12 (+)Door Input (not used)
H2/13 Aux 1 Output (not used)
H2/14 Aux 2 Output (not used)
H2/15 Aux 4 Output (not used)
H2/16 (+)Brake Shutdown Input (connected to blue wire at dash fuse box plug 1D pin 13)
H2/17 Hood Pin Input (installed pin switch)
H2/18 Starter Output to Relay pin 85 (see above)
H2/19 Factory Horn Input (not used)
H2/20 Diesel Wait to Start Input (not used)
H2/21 Activation Input (not used)
H2/22 Accessory Output (not used)
H2/23 Tachometer Input to ODB violet/white pin 9
H2/24 Factory Alarm Arm Output (Drivers Kick Panel purple wire)

5)     Door Unlock to Drivers Kick panel grey wire
Door Lock to Driver kick panel blue/white wire
I have tested the door lock/unlock lines indicated above and grounding either one produces the expected result. When they are not connected the doors will not lock or unlock via the remote so I had to hook them up.

So my concern right now is I do not have the correct Arm/Disarm signals. I followed the diagram for the 2010 Toyota Tacoma truck as indicated in my first posting. Maybe I still got it wrong and found a second pair of wires with the same colors, it is after all a mess of wires down there. The Arm/Disarm, are they part of the same connector that the door lock/unlock signals pass though because I found a thinner pair of wires going through a smaller connector going to the driver door and that is where I located what I thought was the Arm/Disarm lines.

Yea you have the wrond lock wires. You are using the drivers door switch wires and that's not what you want. You ned the drivers key cylinder wires instead.

Door unlock wire to GREEN/ black

Door lock wire to purple

Both in the drivers door harness in the kick panel. You test these wires by turning the key in the drivers door lock.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

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Yea you have the wrond lock wires. You are using the drivers door switch wires and that's not what you want. You ned the drivers key cylinder wires instead.

Door unlock wire to GREEN/ black

Door lock wire to purple

Both in the drivers door harness in the kick panel. You test these wires by turning the key in the drivers door lock.

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Oh I know exactly where those are, I looked those up on the wiring diagram for the key lock switch today while I was searching for the arm/disarm wiring (which I never located). I will move the wires tomorrow after work to see how that works and report back, it should give me the single and dual unlock back. But that will not make the beeper notify me that I locked or unlocked the doors and from what little I've found on the internet, the beeping only occurs when the factory remote is used and cannot be used by an add on system. I don't know if that is in fact true or not.

I do not have the Horn Honk Output wired up. Should I hook that up to the horn wire or maybe purchase a Piezo buzzer and hook that up to the horn output? Heck, you know I'm gonna hook it up to at least test it. If it sounds fine then I can leave it but I really like the beeper as it's not annoying like a horn.

Thanks!

I have never tried to connect the factory beeper under the hood, dunno. It will only beep with the factory remotes as is. You can connect the horn and get the same effect. If i remember right the DEI units have a setting to change the length for the output of the horn beep, check and see. You can make it really short so it's less annoying...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

What a pain in the rear to tuck all that away above the fuse box but it's done. I hooked up the horn output and the honk is short and not irritating. This weekend I guess I'll give it the distance to control test.

I pulled out all the unused wires from the harness connectors and saved them in the Python box with all the instructions just in case I ever need to add one more thing and I left the Status 2/Defroster wire hanging in the driver side kick panel because that would be the one I think I might use in the future to automatically select A/C or Heat. That's another project for another time.

And of course one it's all together I discovered the one last thing I'd like to have is if any of the doors are open, for the alarm to sound when I lock the doors, just like the factory remote does. Please don't tell me that if I had hooked up the Door Open line that would have worked. Of course I haven't seen a line for door open but I'm sure there is one. It would be fairly easy to attach one wire into the Python connectors due to how I oriented it above the fuse box but it would take about 1 hour to do that since I'm slow about tearing apart the lower dash. I'd hate to destroy something.

So thank to both of you for you help, it made a huge difference.

Also I did disconnect the disarm/arm lines and all is still operating and the unlock/lock I didn't move either. Once I disconnected the disarm/arm the locks operated with one press and that is fine. The horn give positive feedback which helps.