viper responder one, dball, 2010 accord

Hello,

I'm installing a Viper Responder One into a 2010 Honda Accord Coupe with a DBALL. There is D2D connection between RS and DBALL. DBALL is programming fine (LED is red, after turning the key to ignition LED is flashing green and becoming solid green for 3 sec). But when I'm trying to start the car by remote, I see the green key flashing on the dashboard. The car is trying to start but can not.

DBALL connection:

Tan      -> Blue (pin3 in Immobilizer connector)
Tan/Black      -> Pink (pin4 in Immobilizer connector)
ORANGE / Black      -> Lt. Green (pin6 in immobilizer connector)

What might be the problem?
Thanks

1. Does DBALL light up during remote start attempt?

2. Does the Viper remote starter have a small separate instruction paper about the data-to-data port? It's basically a patch to cover up for a faulty product design. There's a procedure with a jumper wire to switch that port from bitwriter mode to data mode.

1. No, it doesn't light up
2. All I found about D2D port modes is
"If the XK module is unplugged so the port can be used for Bitwriter® programming, you must unplug the heavy gauge 6 pin remote start harness before reconnecting the xk module back in. Once the xk module has been plugged in, reconnect the heavy gauge 6pin remote start harness and proceed to reprogram the xk module"

OK, I may not have 100% correct information here, so you might want to find some way to verify what I'm saying, but there's something you can try.

(Note: I haven't yet installed a Viper Responder One, but I have experience with the Avital 4103 and 4113. Your Viper has a longer-range antenna and different remotes, but the brain should be the same.)

If the DB-ALL doesn't light up during remote start (and you also observed the car's anti-theft light flashing), that's a pretty good sign that the DB-ALL is not getting turned on through data-to-data.

The 4-pin reddish-brown port on the remote starter serves two purposes: It can be used to plug in your bypass module and send and receive commands through data (like you're doing now), and it's also a place to plug in the BitWriter programming tool to change settings like runtime, double-pulse doorlocks, and so forth.

The problem DEI had was that the system wasn't automatically changing back and forth from "BitWriter mode" to "module mode" when it was supposed to.

So anyway.......the older units had a small, "book style" installation guide (with complete explanations as to how to find/test wires and so forth), and a data-to-data port that basically didn't work. How a company could knowingly ship out defective product, I'll never understand, but that's how it was.

Then, later, they made some kind of a patch to the remote starter. Coincidentally, they also got rid of the "book" installation guide and went to a large, fold-out white sheet, made more for professionals than rookies. It just shows what each wire is for, and how to program the settings. It is assumed that the installer knows what the brake wire is for, for example. (The full, detailed installation manual is still available online, I'm pretty sure.)

And then they also inserted a small sheet of paper in the box describing a haphazard procedure to use a jumper wire to switch that port from Bitwriter to data-to-data.

You're supposed to unplug the main 6-pin power module, connect the WHITE/ blue activation input to chassis ground with a jumper, then plug the power back in, and then after a few seconds pull out the ground jumper. The LED on the brain would flash a certain way to indicate which mode you had just changed to.

In short: If you have the older system, you're probably screwed and will have to redo the installation wire-to-wire, or get a newer brain. But it wouldn't hurt anything to try the programming procedure mentioned above.

A quick test would be to connect the status wire (blue/white) from the dball to a status output from the R/S. see if the dball turns on. If it does you need to switch the brain to D2D mode

Thank you so much! After procedure with activation input everything is working flawlessly.
And it's very strange that there is no any information about D2D modes in the manual.