90 civic , viper 3105 key less

I have a 1990 Honda Civic Ex with factory door locks I ordered the Viper
3105v alarm (old packaging if that matters) my question is how can I wire up my key less entry to my factory door locks? Will I need a relay(s) or someone mentioned DEI 451M MICRO DOOR LOCK RELAY MODULE?

Sorry i'm new to all this I have only done one alarm in my life the Scytek Astra 777 in a 1991 Honda with no factory door locks I didn't do the key less just the alarm I couldn't figure out how to wire up the relays for the actuators.

Power Lock      GREEN / WHITE       -      in drivers door       
Power Unlock    GREEN/ red       -      in drivers door

I don't have a manual for that system but there will be 2 wires coming from the viper that are labeled locks. I would have to guess a green for negitive lock and blue for negitive unlock.
Some of the older vipers had what is called flip flop circuits meaning the locks wires could do either positive or negative you will have to read the manual to confirm. If it has flip flop then you will need 2 diodes for the locks as well. You will need to run the wires into the drivers door the integrate with your factory wiring. you may be able to catch the wires going into the door from inside the car have to test to confirm.


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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks for the help, I found the manual online

https://pdf.ampire.de/viper/N3105V_2008-12_web.pdf

will that help in telling me if its negative positive or flip flop?

So I wont need to use relays or the DEI 451M MICRO DOOR LOCK RELAY MODULE? Thanks again

According to that Viper 350 Install guide, it has the older style push-pull or flip-flop door lock outputs. While you
won't need a DEI 451M door lock module, you should add an inline 1N4004 diode to each output wire as follows :

Viper Diode  Civic
H2/A Green 1N4004   band towards Viper        Power Lock        GREEN / WHITE (-)        in drivers door
H2/C Blue  1N4004   band towards Viper        Power Unlock     GREEN/ red (-) in drivers door

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Soldering is fun!

thanks kreg357 what exactly do diodes do i'm looking at them on radio shack's website right now? I've only seen them like once. I've installed
something similar to some tweeters in my brothers sound system they where caps tho I forgot ow big we got them I saved a couple we used them to block out the bass from the tweeter he updated his head unit and the bass was distorting his tweeters on the stock mach 460 speakers

One more question what do you mean by band towards viper ? I'm guessing your talking about the band that on the diode solder that side to the wire coming from the viper? I'll post pictures when I get the alarm in I just ordered it from Amazon i'll post pictures of my install if you guys wanna laugh at my noob skills

With your Civic's lock wires, the car is looking for a (-) pulse to actuate the lock circuit. Your after-market Viper system was built to function in a wide variety of vehicles. The Viper's lock wires outputs a (-) pulse followed by a (+) pulse when the button is pressed. The diode blocks that un-necessary (+) pulse from getting to the car and confusing it.

As far as the reference to the diodes band marking, take a look at the "Diodes" section found by clicking on that in the blue banner section a the top of this page. It will provide pictures of the diodes and the electrical / logic function they perform.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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With your Civic's lock wires, the car is looking for a (-) pulse to actuate the lock circuit. Your after-market Viper system was built to function in a wide variety of vehicles. The Viper's lock wires outputs a (-) pulse followed by a (+) pulse when the button is pressed. The diode blocks that un-necessary (+) pulse from getting to the car and confusing it.

As far as the reference to the diodes band marking, take a look at the "Diodes" section found by clicking on that in the blue banner section a the top of this page. It will provide pictures of the diodes and the electrical / logic function they perform.

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Wow this site is awesome! I'm actually learning something off this place and people are actually helpful on here not like other websites I have been on.

Okay so a Diode has (cathode side stripe) (and a anode side no stripe), if I put negative current to the cathode side i'll get a negative current on the anode side. If I put positive current on the cathode side there will be no positive current on the anode side.

So in order for me to block the positive current coming from the alarm I need to wire up my Diode with the cathode side connected to the wire that comes from the alarm right?

My Alarm came in! I ordered an older model and they sent me a newer one


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Good deal! Check the Install guide. If the Door Lock and Unlock wires are strictly (-) outputs, no diodes are needed.

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Soldering is fun!

Got the Diodes too

kreg357 wrote:

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Good deal! Check the Install guide. If the Door Lock and Unlock wires are strictly (-) outputs, no diodes are needed.

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Okay i'm checking out the Wires and and mapping out all my connections before I take it to the car

Okay I need a little help on some connections

Door Trigger Input:
connect to a wire that goes to (+) 12V when any door is open

Violet (+) Door Trigger Input

Instant Trigger Input:
Connect to a wire that goes to ground (-) when the hood or trunk is open

blue (-) instant trigger input

Door trigger input:
Connect to a wire that goes to ground (-) when any door is open

green (-) door trigger input

According to my wiring diagram on this website for my civic my door trigger is: GREEN/ Red (-) so i'm guessing i'm only going to connect this to the green (-) door trigger from the alarm

Rule out the positive (+) door trigger violet since my car is negative

blue (-) instant trigger input since I have no hood pin connect this just to my trunk the diagram shows Trunk Pin     GREEN/ Black (-)Harness from Dash INDICATOR

Correct. The Viper is a generic after-market system and provides connection inputs ( and outputs ) to support
a wide variety of vehicles. Your car has (-) Door Triggers and a (-) Trunk Trigger so you will use those inputs on
the Viper.

Here is another place you can use a diode... If you want the Viper alarm to monitor the hood too, install a hood pin
switch ( sometimes included in the Viper kit ) and add that to the Viper's Blue (-) Instant Trigger Input wire along
with the Civic's GREEN/ Black Trunk Pin. Place a diode ( 1N4001 or 1N4004 ) in the wire going to the Civic's GREEN/ Black
Trunk Pin ( with the band away from the Viper ) to prevent the added Hood Pin from making the Civic think the trunk is
open when only the hood is open.   If you need a ( free ) hood pin switch, let me know.   I have so many, I'm thinking of
having a yard sale...    

Remember to use a Digital Multi Meter to locate these trigger wires. ( Later model Accords had a nasty habit of
destroying the BCM if you probed the wrong wire while looking for the Trunk Release wire in the DKP ). For a
(-) trigger signal, set the DMM to 20V DC, Red test lead to +12V constant and Black test lead to the suspect wire.
When testing for the Civic's Door Trigger wire, if a door is open the DMM will read +12V, door closed = 0V.

This will be fun! Not only do you get to solder, you get to use a DMM and some diodes, too!!!     

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all your help if it wasn't for you and this sight I wouldn't be able to do this I tested out the door & trunk triggers last night those are cool.

I was trying to open them as quietly & slowly as I could to see if they were working and they are =)
I was thinking about getting the hood pin too. If you have one laying around I'll gladly take it thank you.

What DMM do you recommend?

Im on an entry level harbor freight Amazon budget right now =/ I don't even own a test light I been thinking about picking both of those up i seen those nice expensive Fluke brand ones.

By any chance do you know where I can connect my dome light supervision wire to? I think I read it has to be wired to relay.

Is there a way I can get it to lock the door when I turn the ignition switch on or its not an option on this alarm?

I ended up buying a centech digital multi meter my friend let me borrow his Elenco so I can see how accurate my new cheap one is I picked up a centech tester as well.

Forgot to post picture

Just PM me your shipping address and I'll send a couple hood pin switches to you.

As for a decent DMM, you should be able to find one in the $20 to $45 range. For basic auto electronics it doesn't have to have + or - .05% accuracy. If you can find one that
measures Frequency, that would be a plus. It makes finding a Tach or VSS signal easier. Remember that the DMM will also be very useful around the house for AC testing, battery
checking and even verifying a light bulb is blown. Fluke is a good brand but pricey ( I still use an old Fluke Model 77 ). There are other brands out there that will fit your budget
and provide years of reliable service.

Be careful with the +12 circuit tester. It will be fine for use on ignition wires.   On newer cars, the computers are very sensitive and be damaged by indiscriminate use of a high
current incandescent test light.

You should be able to connect the Vipers Dome Light Supervision wire directly to the Door Pin wire. The guides all list the GreenRed wire. Not sure why Bulldog Security suggests
using a relay.

Look at Programming Option 1-3. Seems like ignition controlled door locking is set to ON as the default.

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Soldering is fun!

I'll PM you my address thanks

My friends DMM is nice it's an Elenco M-1750 I think I might go for that one its around $40 an Amazon. I have a feeling my cheap Centech one isn't gonna last too long.

I'll be careful with the tester I really don't know why I bought it

I figured out the auto door lock situation, I was testing it out with my drivers door open all others closed I guess they where all suppose to be closed in order for that feature to work.

I'll connect the dome supervision to door trigger thanks again

kreg357 wrote:

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Just PM me your shipping address and I'll send a couple hood pin switches to you.

As for a decent DMM, you should be able to find one in the $20 to $45 range. For basic auto electronics it doesn't have to have + or - .05% accuracy. If you can find one that
measures Frequency, that would be a plus. It makes finding a Tach or VSS signal easier. Remember that the DMM will also be very useful around the house for AC testing, battery
checking and even verifying a light bulb is blown. Fluke is a good brand but pricey ( I still use an old Fluke Model 77 ). There are other brands out there that will fit your budget
and provide years of reliable service.

Be careful with the +12 circuit tester. It will be fine for use on ignition wires.   On newer cars, the computers are very sensitive and be damaged by indiscriminate use of a high
current incandescent test light.

You should be able to connect the Vipers Dome Light Supervision wire directly to the Door Pin wire. The guides all list the GreenRed wire. Not sure why Bulldog Security suggests
using a relay.

Look at Programming Option 1-3. Seems like ignition controlled door locking is set to ON as the default.

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@ Kreg357: I got the package on Friday. I appreciate all the trouble you gone thru helping me out installing this alarm and going out of your way and sending me free hood triggers wrapped up all professional with a tracking number. You sent them as if I paid you for them hell even better then if I paid you for them the stuff I order online doesn't come as professional as you sent it and with a tracking number lol I appreciate all your help thanks again Kreg357!

Glad to help. Enjoy the hood pins. Hope the install goes smoothly.

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Soldering is fun!

I haven't installed the hood pin yet or hooked up the dome light, my axle broke twice on me come to find out my trasmission mount bolt was loose & front motor mount was non existent I replaced both mounts & axle so now i can finish the alarm lol. So far the alarm has been good to me the only problem im having is that the driver side 2door doesn't work with the keyless entry but i had that problem before i got the alarm the power door locks worked except the driver side door & I wish the siren was louder & a little more sensitive. But other then that im happy with it. =D