I was having issues with my remote start and was directed over to this forum. Any help would be much appreciated.
This might be a long shot asking this on here but I've looked everywhere and can't find an answer. I'm trying to avoid taking it to the installer who is worthless (Fry's Electronics). I refuse to shop there after having them install my alarm.
I have the Clifford Responder 3.3x system and have had issue after issue with it and would one day like to get it replaced. But an off and on issue I have had is it not starting with the remote starter. More recently it hasn't worked at all.
Previously I when it was coming and going I reset the crank time and it fixed it and that is until the unit locked out my remotes and I had to have it re programed. I was told the brain received too much electrical current and went into a 'protection' mode type of thing.
I took a video so it would be easier than trying to explain it and it will keep going through this cycle until i notice it and stop it or after 10 or so times (I figure its no good for the engine going through it so I haven't actually stopped and let it go through until it stopped)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjXfLxnkYvo
Also, this is on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. It doesn't have a chipped key either.
That sounds like a tach issue. Did you connect the tach or is running on virtual tach?
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Eric
Audiomaxx
528 East Fordham Road
Bronx NY 10458
Compustar Top Gun Dealer Award 2012-2013
I am not sure. I had it installed at Fry's and know nothing about how it was done.
I'll probably go down there and have them fix it. Though if it's like last time I'll go down there and it will work for them.
You can take it back and tell him to hook up the tach wire. When the tach is connected you are not able to adjust the crank time as the tach connection is being monitored. You can verify that the tach is not connected by turning on the truck and holding the valet button down. If a tach was connected then the LED light on the antenna will light up. If it doesn't then it means that it was not connected. Good Luck. Easiest thing to do is doing it yourself but if you have a warranty with them then let them try to fix it first.
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Eric
Audiomaxx
528 East Fordham Road
Bronx NY 10458
Compustar Top Gun Dealer Award 2012-2013
Im gonna have to agree with enice on this one. The only multiplexed items on that truck are the door locks and parking lights. Everything else is simple 12v. You can pop the hood and see if a violet/white wire is running either to an ignition coil/fuel injector on the engine or to an blue/grey wire located in an orange plug at the PCM on the firewall. If not take a peek up under the dash. If you see any connectors that look like this
https://www.wemoto.com/pictures/full/TOOL/10023968.jpg
take it back and get your money back. You would be better off doing it yourself than paying someone to use shotty connectors.
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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*
racerjames76 wrote:
Im gonna have to agree with enice on this one. The only multiplexed items on that truck are the door locks and parking lights. Everything else is simple 12v. You can pop the hood and see if a violet/white wire is running either to an ignition coil/fuel injector on the engine or to an blue/grey wire located in an orange plug at the PCM on the firewall. If not take a peek up under the dash. If you see any connectors that look like this
https://www.wemoto.com/pictures/full/TOOL/10023968.jpg
take it back and get your money back. You would be better off doing it yourself than paying someone to use shotty connectors.
I hate those connectors!
I will need to learn how to connect wiring better than using connectors. I have tried soldering but I can't seem to get the hang of it. Looks like cr@p when I'm done.
