530t blowing fuse

Car: 1993 Acura Integra
Alarm: Viper 500 ESP

I have a 530T, that I was using in another vehicle that worked flawlessly but blowing the passenger window fuse in this 2nd vehicle that I installed in.

I used a DMM to see if there's any shorts to body ground on any of the connections I soldered and there's not. Additionally, I've reconnected the up/down and switch wires INSIDE of the cabin and restored normal functionality bypassing the 530T module. It's only when the wires are connected to the 530T that it blow's the VEHICELS passenger window fuse. The fuse blow's when I'm manually using the window up/down switch on the passenger/driver door.

Also, I found that the diode I installed to the GWA was incorrect. Would this have anything to do with the fuse blowing? What can I test for next?

So I reinstalled the GWA diode with the stripe facing alarm and still no go. I also removed the diode completely and manually grounded he GWA lead from the 530T and still no go.

Only this time, I can hear clicking in the 530T when using the passenger switch, no clicking with the driver master switch, no movement in passenger window.

I guess my other test can be to rewire window 1 as 2 and go from there. Anyone feel that this can be a dead 530T?

So I did some investigation and testing.

Again, the module did not work when passenger windows were connected to it. If the windows were connected as OEM, then the window works independent of the module. That lead me to believe something on the passenger side of things were not correct. So I dug up my service manual and read the schematic diagram for the electrical section and what do you know, the wires colors were totally wrong and different compared to what's published on this site. I found that for this vehicle, 1993 acura integra 3dr coupe, UP is BLUE/RED and Down is BLUE/WHITE.

My only other issue is that when armed, the driver side window goes up only half way then stops. It moves another inch if I disarm and rearm. Any ideas?

I guess I figured it all out. The dip switches needed to be set on the 530T Module. Everything works as it should now.

I hope these mistakes and errors will help someone one day. Thanks for reading!

It's one thing to talk to yourself but to have an entire conversation with yourself in public can't be good at all!!!!

Good to hear you got it figured out - this is why you ALWAYS verify with a volt meter. You're lucky you didn't damage something - high current reverse polarity switching can really mess things up if hooked up incorrectly. Always always always use a meter!

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Kevin Pierson