remote start issue manual civic

I'm in the process of installing a Python 5706P remote start on my 1996 Honda Civic. Its a manual transmission. After making it through the MTS mode shutdown, the car does not remain running when I turn the key off and opening the door turns remote start off. Here is the shutdown procedure.



Manual Transmission Start (MTS mode)
When installed into a manual transmission vehicle, the system requires
that the MTS mode is properly set when parking. If MTS mode is not
properly set or is defeated after being properly set the system will not
start the engine and the
REMOTE START ERROR
text and tones play as
an alert.
1. With the engine running, set the parking brake and leave the engine running.

2. Release the foot brake (if pressed during Step 1), or press and release the foot brake anytime. As long as the engine is running
there is no time limit to perform this step.

3. Within 20 seconds of foot brake release, press any command button on the remote, after 20 seconds return to Step 2

4. The parking lights flash 5 times to confirm MTS mode enable and
the remote start activates the ignition outputs. The REMOTE START ON
text and beeps play to confirm.

5. Turn Off and remove the key from the ignition switch, the engine
remains running.

6. Exit the vehicle, close all the doors and arm the system.

7. The engine turns off and after a few seconds, the REMOTE START OFF
message plays to confirm. If the door is opened in Step 3 then
the engine continues to run.




The problem I am having is that after getting the confirmation from the LCD on the remote that remote start is activated the car does not remain running like it says it should when I turn the key off. Then when I open the door to get out of the car the remote says "Remote Start Off", Perhaps the door issue is just a secondary effect of the sequence being interrupted by the car not remaining running until I get out and arm the system.

Do I have something wired incorrectly dealing with the ignition perhaps?

I have Pink #H3/1 hooked up to BLACK / YELLOW - Ignition 1, and I have nothing hooked up to Yellow - Ignition 2. Am I missing something that should be hooked to Yellow, perhaps Red #H3/6 or should that be hooked up to BLACK / YELLOW as well? I believe this is where my issue might be. If anyone can help me through what I should have hooked up to the BLACK / YELLOW and Yellow I will give it a try and let you know how it went.

Here is a link to a 1996 Civic wiring sheet.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1049.html


Here is a pic of the reference guide. This is not my picture or my highlights, this picture was just pulled off google.

Ok, I have that issue resolved. But now I cannot get it to crank from remote start. I have it wired like below.

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 - Pink - Ignition 1 input/output = connected to ign 1 BLACK / YELLOW wire on ignition switch
H3/2 - RED / White - Fused (30A) Ignition 2/ flex relay input 87 = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/3 - Orange - Accessory output = connected to WHITE/ Black wire on ignition switch
H3/4 - Violet - Starter output = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this violet wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the car side
H3/5 - Green - Starter Input = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this green wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the Key ignition side
H3/6 - Red - Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/7 - Pink/White - Ignition 2/ Flex relay output = connected to the Yellow wire (Ignition 2) on the ignition switch
H3/8 - Pink/Black - Flex relay input 87A Key side (if required) of flex relay = not connected
H3/9 - RED / Black - Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter input = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch


I can crank the car fine, and I now can shut the car off in MTS and am able to take the key out of the ignition where it is still running and get out of the car, it shuts off when I arm it.

Now when I go to start it up with remote start, the starter never engages, you just see the parking lights flash once, then awhile later the same. I believe they are programmed to try to start the car about three times before they give up. That is where I am at now.

I checked to make sure the fuses were good. I also checked to make sure that the wait to start wire wasn't ground out.

As far as I know a 1996 civic doesnt have an immobilizer.

Now, I have 4 wires going to the 12 volt white wire, I have the 12 volt constant input H1/1 on a spot by itself. I have the other three H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9 all hooked up right beside each other on a 1 inch stripped part of the wire where they are all touching. Could that by chance be part of the issue?

Did you connect anything to the clutch switch to make the car think you are pressing the clutch pedal before starting it?

Try setting the manual mode (brake, parking brake, push button, open and close door, etc) but do it with you still in the car. Then press down the clutch pedal and try remote starting to see if that works. If it does, the issue is the wiring (or lack of) for the clutch switch. If it still doesn't start, you should check the wiring going to the ignition wires (especially the starter wire).

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Red , RED / Black,RED / white wires from Python to White 12 volt wire in car ,Pink from Python to BLACK / YELLOW in car ,Orange wire from Python to Yellow wire in car ,now the starter wire from Python can be connected directly to the clutch wire BLACK/ Red at the clutch pedal .This is the ignition connection from the Python to the car .

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triniforever

The Python comes programmed for manual mode and make sure the WHITE/ black wire on the 24 pin harness is connected to ground ,also the neutral safety switch must be plugged in and be in the on position and you should be all set .

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triniforever

I correct myself the BLACK/ White wire should be connected to the parking brake wire RED / green.

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triniforever

shortcircuit161 wrote:

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Did you connect anything to the clutch switch to make the car think you are pressing the clutch pedal before starting it?

Try setting the manual mode (brake, parking brake, push button, open and close door, etc) but do it with you still in the car. Then press down the clutch pedal and try remote starting to see if that works. If it does, the issue is the wiring (or lack of) for the clutch switch. If it still doesn't start, you should check the wiring going to the ignition wires (especially the starter wire).

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Thanks Short and Trini, I will have to try that tomorrow after work. I actually thought of the clutch right before I left to take a friend home and I had done a search on here and found this info about the red and black wire on page 3 of this thread.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~126292~PN~3~TPN~3

So if I do the remote start with the clutch pushed in and it starts then all I will have to do is hook up to the BLACK/ red.

So... for clarification.

I need to reconnect my cars BLACK/ White starter wire to itself (which I had split in two) and have the Green wire connected to the BLACK/ White as well (just like it currently is). Then I need to connect my Purple wire to the RED / Black clutch wire?

I appreciate the help, Im looking forward to your replies and hopefully I will have a chance to mess with it some after work the next day or two.

The actual starter wire from the alarm is the Purple wire,the green wire from the alarm is actually the starter kill, so if you reconnect the BLACK/ white starter wire in the car and connected the Purple start wire from the alarm to the clutch wire then the Green wire from the alarm is not really needed .

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triniforever

triniforever wrote:

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The actual starter wire from the alarm is the Purple wire,the green wire from the alarm is actually the starter kill, so if you reconnect the BLACK/ white starter wire in the car and connected the Purple start wire from the alarm to the clutch wire then the Green wire from the alarm is not really needed .

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Well, I worked on it when I got home and cleaned up, shortened wires, and wired it up like you guys said and shes working. Thanks a lot. Worth only getting 3 hours of sleep I guess.

I have two issues though, unrelated:

The Lock works maybe once out of every 2-5 times. Unlock works every time but Lock doesnt. You hear the solenoid or whatever slug but it just doesnt lock. If I press lock then unlock, or just lock two or three times usually it will eventually lock. Could you give me some possible reasons for this? Weak solenoid, weak connection, didn't tie into the door wire connection high enough?

My other question is the dome light. This year civic is known for having some kind of funky deal where if you took out the stock radio you lost your dome light. Its just a cheap work car but it would be nice to get the dome light working too. How would I go about doing this which wire to which and where would it be located?

What color wire you used for lock and where did u get it?

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triniforever

Also when you press the lock switch on the door does it lock everytime?

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triniforever

triniforever wrote:

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What color wire you used for lock and where did u get it?

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Yeah I believe so. I will have to try when I get home. If it does not work every time from the door switch what do you believe it could be, shorting/grounding out, bad solenoid, or bad switch?

I have a T-tap splice from the green of the 3 pin connector of the module on the GREEN / WHITE right on the loom of wires near the ecu, above the driver kick panel.

I will have to test it out when I get in from work, I should have already done that but only got 3 hours of sleep as it is. If it doesn't work every time from the cars lock switch Ill take the panel off and have a look around. I can check for bare or breaking wires easy enough, if I see none how should I go about testing anything else if you think its something else?

Did you test that GREEN / WHITE wire ?or you just might have the lock motor wire . You need to test and verify all wires before attaching any of them to the alarm

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triniforever

So there is a lock motor wire and a different door lock wire? What differentiates the two when checking with my meter? Sorry for the newbie questions this is my first venture into something like this.

I will pull my door panel off and check for anything obvious, Ill also check that wire I'm tied into first, So I need to probe the red to something with constant voltage and then take my black probe and connect it to the wire I suspect is my door lock trigger, then just use the door lock on the door and see if it shows voltage? Or should it work like anything else, ground the black and check it with red?

triniforever wrote:

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Did you test that GREEN / WHITE wire ?or you just might have the lock motor wire . You need to test and verify all wires before attaching any of them to the alarm

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If I had the door lock motor wire rather than the door lock wire (still unsure if thats what you meant) that might explain why the passenger door isn't getting controlled by the remote.

Can you lead me in the right direction?

First what kind of test equipment you have ? A DMM ? A test light ?

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triniforever

I picked up a nice multimeter for the job.

Ok so you need to test that lock wire place one lead to ground and the other lead to the wire to be tested when you hit the switch that wire should go to ground

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triniforever

I figured it out after work. Weak actuator. Thanks for the help and also about the clutch bypass. I made a video to help others. I know that my "work around" isnt the proper way but it works for me for a work car. Solved my problem, I left the passenger side hooked up in case the battery ever dies while Im inside it, LOL. No one ever rides with me so its not an issue, I can just leave it locked and mechanically attached since the actuator on the passenger side since the actuator while mechanically hooked up is too weak to unlock.

Take a look at the video if you want.

https://youtu.be/Dbdwat8Kx-k

https://youtu.be/Dbdwat8Kx-k

I guess you could go one of two ways.... replace the actuators with new ones. I absolutely wont do that since I have already in the past bought entirely new door handle assembly and lock for this car only to find how poorly engineered they are. They bind on themselves... you will have your door panel slightly bow just enough that the cradle of the door handle wont want to properly seat so the manual door unlock binds, which causes it to bind remotely or from the switch. Thats my particular car, not everyones, 16 years old it has just bowed just enough from sunlight to cause a problem I guess. So replacing door panel and the actuators... or simply unhooking them.

Unhooking them, I guess if I wanted to unhook the passenger side mechanically I could opt to do that as well, and for fear of locking myself inside with a dead battery if the doors were locked I could get a battery back up for my alarm or simply program the alarm so that it doesnt lock the doors while the engine is running and the key is in the ignition. I actually think my alarm has something like that which is programmable.

I know this post here isnt really needed info for anyone Ive been in conversation with but maybe it will help someone out in the future so they can see the pros and cons and make the best decision on what works for them.