viper 4704 on 2012 nissan titan

I've figured out most of the wires but want to confirm I'm correct and maybe get some answers on what I'm missing?

H1/1- Red - (+)12VDc Constant Input - Green
H1/3-Brown-Horn - RED / White (-)
H1/4-WHITE/ brown-Light Flash Isolation Wire - Pin 87a light flash Relay - ? Would this be Parking Lights RED / Blue (+) or on a relay
H1/5-White-Pin 30 of light flash relay - ?
H1/6- Orange- 500mA Ground When Armed Output - ?

H2 a little confused on:
H2/6-Green-(-)Door - red (Double pulse) in door
H2/7-BLACK / YELLOW-Dome Light Output-Blue (-)
H2/16-Brown-Brake Shutdown-RED / Green or RED / black (+)
H2/19-Blue-RED / white (-)

H3/1-Pink-(+)Ignition 1 Input/output - BLACK/ Red
H3/2-RED / White - +12V Fused Ignition/Flex Relay - Not needed
H3/3-Orange-(+)Accessory Output - Red
H3/4-Violet - Starter Output - Brown
H3/5-Red- +12V Fused Ignition 1 Output - BLACK/ red or not used?
H3/6-Pink/White-Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output - Not used?
H3/7-Pink/Black-Flex Relay Input 87a - not used?
H3/8-RED / Black-(+)12V Fused Accessory - Red

Viper 4704 remote start with keyless entry ( no alarm functions ).

Are you using a bypass module? This could change some of the wiring shown below.

Does the truck have a Factory alarm? more connections needed

H1/1- Red - (+)12VDc Constant Input - Green @ Ignition switch harness
H1/3-Brown-Horn -     RED / White (-) @ horn switch connector
H1/4-WHITE/ brown-Light Flash Isolation Wire - Not used
H1/5-White-Pin 30 of light flash relay - RED / blue @ electric brake pre-wire *** Set jumper/fuse to +
H1/6- Orange- 500mA G W A Output -   not needed

H2 a little confused on:
H2/6-Green-(-)Door -   not needed   ( unless manual transmission )
H2/7-BLACK / YELLOW-       not needed ( interior light should come on with Unlock )
H2/16-Brown-Brake Shutdown-  RED / Green @ brake pedal switch
H2/19-Blue-     not used

H3/1-Pink-(+)Ignition 1 Input/output -  BLACK/ Red @ Ignition switch harness
H3/2-RED / White - +12V Fused Ignition/Flex Relay - Green @ Ignition switch harness
H3/3-Orange-(+)Accessory Output - Red @ Ignition switch harness
H3/4-Violet - Starter Output - Brown @ Ignition switch harness
H3/5-Red- +12V Fused Ignition 1 Output -   Green @ Ignition switch harness
H3/6-Pink/White-Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output Light Green @ Ignition switch harness *** Set Viper to Starter2
H3/7-Pink/Black-Flex Relay Input 87a -        not used
H3/8-RED / Black-(+)12V Fused Accessory - Green @ Ignition switch harness

Obtain 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for ACC2. Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 Orange
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to Green +12V constant @ Ignition switch harness through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Purple ACC2 @ Ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87a    not used

There are other important wires not listed in your chart but I'm assuming you know where they go.
( H2/2, H2/9, H2/17 and H2/23 )

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357,

Thank you for your help.

Yes, I have the Factory Alarm. I am using the Xpresskit DBALL bypass module using D2D. I think I have the module wiring squared away. I bought 5 relays incase I need them. 1 will be for the DBALL and now 1 for the Alarm

The H2 wiring is where I'm a little stuck. I should have listed all of them. None of the wiring diagrams or right ups I find for the Titan cover some of the numbers.

H2/2-BLACK/ white - (-) Neutral Safety Input)-?
H2/9 - DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT-?
H2/17 is the hood switch
H2/23 is the tach (grey/white (any wire note WHITE/ blue or black at Coil or ECM under hood.
H2 any I may be missing because of alarm or Immobilizer that Xpress won't cover?

OK 2012 Nissan Titan, auto trans & Factory Alarm with Viper 4704V and DB-ALL w/401.NISS01 v1.04 firmware going D2D.

First, unrequested comments and suggestions.   Nice truck, top shelf remote start unit. Guessing personal vehicle and DIY install. You want a high quality
system / install and have the time to do it right. Why not go with the W2W method and make neat, soldered connections for all the necessary wires between
the Viper & DB-ALL? The D2D only functions supplied by the DB-ALL are not important for your install. I am still not a big fan of DBI D2D and to prevent problems
& "strange issues" still do everything in the W2W mode. Anyway, the choice is yours, D2D will save time ( and look better if you're sloppy ) and you can always
switch over to W2W if it doesn't work properly.

As you are probably aware the DB-ALL must be flashed with the correct firmware ( listed above ) for your install application needs. The DB-ALL preforms a lot
of functions beside the transponder bypass. These functions are listed in the DB-ALL install guide and vary from vehicle to vehicle,   Your truck with the Factory
Alarm will be more difficult. Additionally, while the DB-ALL doesn't specifically list the 2012 model, I'm guessing that it is the same. You will have to add a relay
in the IPDM box under the hood. ( As a side note, the EVO-ALL and the ADS AL CA bypass modules do not require this IPDM relay.)

Anyway, follow the DB-ALL install guide. All of the dashed blue lines are handled by the D2D harness and don't have to be hard wired. Hood Status will only
be available if the the truck has a factory hood pin. The Vipers Neutral Safety Switch input will be the E-Brake signal supplied by the DB-ALL. The (-) Status Output
and the Tach signal is also handled by the D2D connection.

It appears that the way the DB-ALL handles the trucks Factory Alarm is to disable it. Not sure if you want to do that being as the Viper 4704 has no alarm functions.
( There is a way to properly control the trucks alarm with an after-market remote start w/keyless system, by connecting the R/S lock wires directly to the BCM. )

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you on the truck. I'm very happy with it. The 4704 was on sale and I couldn't pass up getting this unit. Especially with it's range. Viper's website states the DB-ALL is the unit I should use for my 2012. I was up in the air about D2D or W2W. Definitely easier to just do D2D and you are right about many of the functions not used.

I understand now from what you are saying that the W2W DB-ALL connections would go to the H2/ connections on the remote? So if I decided to do the W2W I'd just match up wire for wire.   

Yes, I bought the flash connector and also bought the programmer for the Viper. I need to flash to the version you have listed and I plan on using the programmer to set up the 4704 the way I want it. I also understand that the 4704 comes set up for manual transmission and needs to be changes over to automatic to function.

I didn't realize it would shut off my Factory alarm. I thought that tying in pins 10 & 11 from the blue 14 pin connector on the DB-ALL to pin 38 on the BCM and cutting the wire to make the connections would tie in the alarm? Or is that what disarms it? What are the R/S lock wires and where would I connect them at the BCM?

Thank you again for all of the help. I contacted a few places around here for prices on an install and none of them got back to me. Making my decision easier on doing it myself.

Going W2W is very easy and logical. Done on the bench prior to install will allow perfect solder
connections and a neat package. You can also just connect the wires needed and omit the un-
necessary ones ( like Trunk & Door Status, Trunk Release, etc ). If you don't normally set the
E-Brake when parked, you can connect the Viper Neutral Safety Input to chassis ground. If your
truck does not have a Factory Hood Pin, you will have to install the hood pin supplied in the Viper
kit.

I believe the BCM Pin 38 LED is just the instrument cluster "Security" light.

As for the Factory Alarm, I'm not sure how the DB-ALL handles it, other than the notes and comments
in the install guide ( I don't use the DB-ALL ). You can install the DB-ALL as per the wiring guide but not
do the DB-ALL programming Option 3 change and see if a remote start or door opening sets off the
Factory Alarm. Then change that programming option and see if the Factory Alarm still works if you
reach in an open window and open the door with the inside handle. If it does turn off the Factory Alarm
all the time, you can re-wire the Viper so the Blue and Green door lock wires go to the BCM instead
of the DB-ALL, as shown in this iDatalink bypass module wiring guide ( see Page 12 ) :
https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-NI4/ADS-AL(DL)-NI4-EN_20130912.pdf

Having the BitWriter and the XKLoader2 will make things much easier. You can even set the Viper for
Automatic Transmission and Tach Mode while on the bench.

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Soldering is fun!

You're starting to make me lean toward the W2W install.  I do like soldering stuff. 

I'm glad I did my research about hte prgrammer.  didn't know at 1st that I'd have to have the unit set to automatic transmission and would have had to go somewhere to have it done.  Well worth the money spent.  And, I can set up the temp initiation or timer. 

I really appreciate all of the help you've given me.  It will be a few weeks until I can get this done but when I do I'll post what happened.

Dave

Have you ever added the rear defroster? I'm trying to decide if I want to add it or not or just let the heater take care of the inside. If I do where do you think I should tap into the circuit at?

Here is the Rear Defrost info from Audiovox :
Rear Defrost     YELLOW/BLACK (-)       AT A/C CONTROL UNIT or AT BCM PIN #9
It does say if a single pulse or a latched signal is required, so "locate and test" is in order. The Viper can be programmed for either, pulse or latched output.

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Soldering is fun!

So, here would be the final wiring as I believe it to be. sorry I can't upload the XLS file. Not to 50 posts yet.

I can send the xcel file to you if that would be better?

I copied it to Word and it is readable.

First, I am not a DB-ALL user, so I don't know how "feature programmable" they are with the XKLoader2
cable attached ( like the Fortin or iDatalink modules where you can turn off certain items and functions).
The reason being, you are mixing the wiring and functions between the D2D harness supported functions
and going W2W on others.   ( I am assuming D2D because you did not manually connect the Vipers Dark
Blue (-) Status Output wire to the DB-ALL (-) GWR Status Input and the DB-ALL Pink Ignition wire is not
listed as connected to the Vipers' thick Pink IGN1 wire.)

Examples :
The DB-ALL supplies a Brake input via D2D but you are also manually running a wire from the Viper
to the Titan's physical Brake pedal wire.

The DB-ALL supplies a Tach signal via D2D and you are using that.

The DB-ALL does the door lock thru D2D and you are also directly connecting the Viper to the
key cylinder wires in the drivers door.

The Viper sends a Parking Light control signal to the DB-ALL via the D2D harness so the DB-ALL can
control the Parking Lights but you are also hardwiring a Parking Light connection from the Viper to the
Titan.


Anyway, it's confusing to me. I have never tried it that way. I am not sure how the DB-ALL and the Titan
will react to that set-up. For me, I would connect the two units in the W2W mode and use the DB-ALL
for all it's worth ( Tach, Brake, Parking Lights, Hood Status ( if Factory supported ), etc ). The only
point of concern is the Factory Alarm. Perhaps a call to XpressKit Tech Support can clear that area
up before install. Going W2W, you could just wire up the Vipers lock wires to the BCM or inside the
door and bypass the DB-ALL for that issue.

Additionally, try to find a sealed relay for the IPDM. While it is not directly exposed to water splashes,
it is more subject to the elements in the box under the hood.

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry if I'm confusing you. I do not intend to mix the 2 types of signals and am probably over thinking this to the point I'm crossing signals. Hence my questions. I'm trying to eliminate what would be D2D and what would be W2W and I believe I was mixing up the connections I need to make. With D2D all of the functions found in the W2W are there.

The DB-ALL seems similar to the units you are referring to where the functions are programmable. I can turn my OEM alarm on and off with the xpressloader2 and I can program which features I want to use. Glad to know I do not have to get inside my doors if I don't want to.

I will give them a call to make sure I'm covered. I'll eliminate the 3 connections you are referring to and I only have to make the connections for: neutral to ground, rear defogger, hood pin, (possible blue for horn since I'm using a 2-way that can arm/disarm alarm) and the Accessory output to the relay. I'll contact xpress to clear the rest up.

The relays I purchased are sealed automotive relays.

I do really appreciate your patience and responding to my questions. Many people would just tell me to take it to someone and have them do it.

I've been meaning to ask you what this relay does in the circuit?

Obtain 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for ACC2. Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 Orange (-)200mA Accessory Output
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to Green +12V constant @ Ignition switch harness through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Purple ACC2 @ Ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87a    not used

I understand that when the 200mA signal is sent from the Viper the coil is energized and the relay switches state sending 12V to the ACC2 wire. What does that actually do?

The external relay is used to supply power to the Titan's Accessory2 circuit. The Viper can only
handle 4 of the 5 ignition circuits ( IGN1, ACC1, Starter1 and Starter2 ) but the Viper conveniently
provides these (-) 200mA outputs to control relays for any additional vehicle needs. Each of these
circuits ( like Starter1 & Starter2, ACC1 & ACC2 ) is isolated and should be handled the same way
during a remote start. An installer should never connect the thick Yellow Starter Output wire to two
vehicle starter wires.

I do not know exactly which vehicle circuits are controlled by the ACC2 wire. It could be completely
un-necessary things like power mirrors, heated seats, wipers and the radio.   In some vehicles, not
powering an ignition circuit will cause CEL's and in some cases transmission damage.

If you can go into the DB-ALL programming and turn off the Door Lock control and E-Brake Status
Output, you could connect the Viper to the DB-ALL via D2D. The D2D harness would provide the Viper
with the Tach signal, the Brake signal and possibly the Hood Pin Status along with taking care of the
transponder bypass. At the Viper, you would connect it's lock outputs to the BCM ( as shown in the
iDatalink guide ) and the Neutral Safety to chassis ground. At this point most of your wiring chart is
good, just delete the H1/5 and H2/16 connections as they are handled by the DB-ALL via D2D.

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Soldering is fun!

I saw an install online with the connection you've said shouldn't be done.

Here are the DB-ALL functions. The locks and brake are covered as well as the hood pin if I have one.
DL-Lock
DL-Unlock
DL-Trunk
RS-Request engine coolant temp.
RS-Request intake air temperature (outside temp)
RS-Request RPM
RS-Ground when running
RS-Start command
RS-Stop from remote
RS-Starter
RS-Ignition command
RS-Ignition from RS
RS-Aux1
RS-Aux2
ST-Hand brake
ST-Hood
ST-Trunk
ST-Driver door
ST-Other doors
ST-Brake
ST-Ignition
OEM Keyless-disarm
OEM Keyless-arm
SS-Alert Status
SS-OEM Alarm
RS-Request Runtime
Looks like it's all about covered. Thank you again.

I finally got around to installing the Viper. Install isn't that bad as long as you take your time and pay attention that everything is wired and set properly. A big thank you to Kreg.

Some other observations. With D2D the door lock wires are not required and the Brake Pedal shutdown is not required. And, if you are going to do this yourself or even ever want to change anything buy yourself the programmer for the Viper and for the DBALL.   

However there are 2 issues I'm still dealing with:

The parking lights do not flash during lock or unlock press even though I have the polarity set to + on the Viper. On the DBALL I've tried all 3 settings for light flash and still nothing. Do I also need to set the lights in the Viper?

The rear defogger: I thought I should use wire H2/3 but it looks like maybe I should use F2/9?

For the rear defroster, use H2/3. With the BitWriter you can program it to Defrost and select the correct
"Pulse" or "Latched" setting.   Menu 3, Item 11

If you tried everything with the 4704V and DB-ALL settings, why not just go W2W with the Parking Lights.
Set the Vipers' Jumper/Fuse to (+) and make a direct connection from H1/5 White wire to :
Parking Lights (+)     RED / Blue (+)        @ electric brake pre-wiring left of steering column, White 6 pin plug, Pin 4
Also verify that Menu 3, Item 12 is set to Option 1.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg,
thank you again. The manual states that Menu 3 Item 11 is from H2/9? I'll switch and see.rd wire it

Ok, I'll check Menu 3 Item 12 1st and if need be go W2W as you directed. You're instructions have really helped me. I don't know how you guys can lay backwards under dashboards all day long.

The W2W was required for the parking lights. So, that part is done. I just set the Viper so that the lights are on when the vehicle is running. And now the lights flash during lock and unlock.

For the rear defroster I measured the signal on the yellow/black wire and the 12 volts is constant so "latched" with a button push. I set the Viper to latched and I need to measure the voltage when the remote start is running to see if there is 12V on the wire since the yellow light for the button does not light up.

I really appreciate all of your help. You made a tough install much easier. Trying to program the remote is a bigger pain than the wiring I think.