2013 honda fit manual remote start

I am getting ready to install a compustar 6200s remote start with RF-1BAM Remote Kit in a Honda Fit 2013 manual. I have a few questions for the more experienced installers on this forum. First does the Fit have a neutral safety switch that I can hook up the starter wire to from the remote start and if so where is it located in car. I can not find any wiring diagrams for this vehicle. Second, the RF-1BAM Remote Kit does it do lock/unlock for doors and if so what is needed for it to work besides hooking up the correct wires to the 6200. Third, I am going to use the blade AL module with starter. I am assuming this will take care of brake switch, ebrake, tach, hood pin, trunk pin. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mar

Ready Remote has the wire guide for your car. Here is a link :
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Honda&model=Fit

I'm assuming the Blade will be flashed with the DL HA2 firmware. It will do a lot for you and make the install
easy. I have not heard of or found a "Neutral Safety" wire on Honda's. The Compustar Manual Transmission
Mode is pretty user friendly.

The Compustar RF-1BAM one button remotes will do the door locks but there are a few things to point out.
The single button will flip-flop between lock and unlock. If the last command was a lock the next will be an
unlock. You can't do the same function twice in a row. ( There is an exception to this rule, ask if you need
this info...)

In manual transmission mode, reservation mode keys off of the EBrake input. Also the unit will lock the
doors and shut down the engine automatically for you. Usually, you will have to press the button and do a
useless lock to get to the next unlock cycle with the 1BAM remote to open the car after a remote start.

You really can't program the CM6200-s with a one button remote. You have a few choices :
1. Temporarily program a 4 button FOB and use that for programming.
2. Use the OP-500 programmer.
3. Use the ADS USB cable, internet access & dealer WEB site to set the CM6200-s options.

If you have dealer access to the Flash area of the iDatalink WEB site and the USB cable, things will be easier
all around.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg, doesn't the 1bamr gave you lock on one press, unlock on double press, start on press & hold?
I could be mistaken as it was a long time ago when I installed a compustar that had the 1BAMR as a secondary remote.

I think you're right, Yellow_Cake. That is the way the RF-1BAM user manual reads now. I was going from memory
with an install I did on my personal '06 Civic w/manual trans. Back then, I used a CM5200 with the AM 1BAM
remotes and that was the way it worked. That's one of the reasons why I never sold many of them.

Just set-up a CM6200 with a RF-1BAM-900SH one button kit as a test and I'm getting the same results, first press
is Lock & next press is Unlock. The User Guide has it written up this way, too. Maybe it's the older style remote
kit or maybe it's the CM6200 firmware level ( it's at Ver 6.07 and the latest is over 7.xx ).

For the OP ( Michelin ), disregard my info on how the RF-1BAM one button remotes work. Go by Yellow_Cake's
post and the actual Owners Manual / Guide that comes with your kit.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg357 for the info. I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the response everyone much help.

Hi kreg357, I am getting ready to do the install this weekend and have a few questions about some things that are confusing me. After getting the harness set up on table a few questions came up. I was thinking about bypassing the clutch by running the RED / black pin 5 wire from connector 3 directly to clutch switch black wire with no relay. Is this a good idea. Is Pin 2 ORANGE / Black - Parking Light Reminder connector 3 needed for manual install? One thing that is confusing me is the AL blade module: this will do oem alram lock and unlock, hood trunk trigger, hatch trigger and door status output, tach so does this mean I do not have to connect Pin 10 RED / White door trigger on connector 3 and also will module do brake and ebrake as well or will these need to be hooked up seperately? Any help will be appreciated by anyone as well as yourself. I like to be prepared before I go in.

Thanks,
Mar

I don't do too many manual transmission installs due to liability issues, so I don't have any first-hand info
on your Fit's clutch bypass. On my 2006 Civic, I did connect the Compustar's (-) Starter Output wire directly
to the correct wire at the clutch interlock switch connector. I believe you will be OK doing it that way,
however, the safest way is to use a DMM to determine the input and output wires of the clutch interlock switch
and use a relay, controlled by that (-) Starter wire, to make the connection/bypass during a remote start-up.

Using the iDatalink Blade w/DL HA2 firmware ( Guide # 10632 ), the Blade will handle the transponder bypass,
the Factory Alarm ( if equipped ), the door locks, the trunk release ( w/engine OFF ), and supply Door, Trunk
and Hood ( if Factory equipped ) Status signals.   For proper operation, you will still need to connect the
Compustar to the Fit's Brake, E-Brake ( mandatory in MT Mode ), Tach ( mandatory in MT Mode ), Parking
Lights, and ignition wires ( IGN, Starter, ACC1, ACC2 ). The Horn and Parking Lights Reminder connections
are optional. The Parking Light Reminder is a very handy thing to prevent leaving the lights on when you
set Reservation Mode. ( Believe I drained the battery twice doing that in the Civic. )

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Soldering is fun!

Got some of the remote starter install. I do have another question though or questions. For door status can I just connect to dome light instead of connecting to all four individual door wires at fuse box. Also, I thought the blade did tach. When I put same remote start in my other car 2012 Honda Civic auto I did not connect tach wire. Is it different because of manual tranny? Also, how do you program remote start using remote. I tried a few times but nothing seemed to work. I was doing lock and unlock for 2.5sec, then lock and key for 2.5secs for option menu 2. Then hold trunk + key/start for 2.5. My question is must you press hold trunk + key/start for each individual option in the group (2-01 would be one hold, 2-02 would be 2 holds of buttons). Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

As mentioned, you will be using the iDatalink Install Guide #10632. iDatalink does an excellent job on their
guides and rarely makes a mistake. Please refer to Page 2 of 10 for the exact features supported by the
Blade cartridge when flashed with the DL HA2 firmware.

Of interest with respect to your last questions, the Blade will supply the Compustar with Door, Trunk and
Hood Status signals. The Compustar will use these signals so you don't have to manually connect the
Compustar CM6200 Door Status Input, Trunk Status Input and Hood Status Input wires up. You should
verify that your Fit came with a Factory Hood Pin. The easiest way is to look for it but you could complete
the install and test the Compustar by doing a remote start and then with the engine idling, open the hood.
The engine should stop running. If there is no Factory Hood Pin, you must install the one supplied in the
kit and connect it to the Compustar Hood Status Input wire.

As for the Tach signal, notice that that feature in omitted from the list on Page 2. The Blade module can not
get that info from the vehicle so you must make the CM6200 Tach Input wire connection to a valid tach signal
from the Fit. Here is some tach source info from Ready Remote :
Tachometer lt. grn, tan, blue, or red (or brn, red, blu, yel) (ac)    @ fuel injector harness on driver side of engine

As for programming the Compustar with the FOB's, sorry, can't help you there. I have and use the OP-500
Programmer. There is another way to set the Compustar options if you have the ADS USB cable and access
to the Flash area of their WEB site. ( Not sure how you got the Blade flashed with the DL HA2 firmware...)
Anyway, you can set the CM6200 options at the same time as you flash the Blade cartridge.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi kreg357, thanks again for getting back to me. I appreciate your help with my questions. Well were not there yet. Actually, after hooking up the ebrake, brake, and tach wire things have seemed to turned for the worst. Friday i hooked everything up except these three wires and the door trigger wire. Friday the remote smart worked fine except it would not learn tach, obviously because those wires were not connected. The lights flashed fine and the lock and unlock buttons on remote worked fine. but today after hooking up ebrake, brake and tach wires as hell broke loose. Still will not learn tach, lights don't flash anymore, when pressing lock on remote the doors unlock, when pressing unlock the locks in sequence will click three times then one time (i think because the doors are already unlocked they they make the clicking sound as tryimng to unlock but already are). It seems to me one of those three wires probably caused this. On this car the brake plug has 2 wires that are green one has gray dots on it, was using a guide i bought online for $5.00 shows picture of green with gray dots. My bad did not test wire before connecting. The tach wire I connected to pcm wire harness under hood. I used wire that showed continuity when all harnesses and one fuel injector unplug. Should continuity when connected the red wire at fuel plug and red wire at other harness at pcm. Again did not check for volts when car was running. The ebrake wire I used orange wire at ebrake. The ebrake I did test but was not sure of the test results. With key on ebrake down no volts with DMM red connector at 12volt battery terminal and black probing wire, with ebrake plugged it went to 2-3 volts but was fluctuating. I am unsure what this result means. correct me if I am wrong. Negative trigger: red to 12volt battery black to wire 0 volts at rest 12volts on. Positive trigger: black to ground and red to wire 12volts at rest o volts when activated. i can not see how any of these three wires could cause the remote start to do what it is doing now but before connecting these wires everything worked fine friday except start. Also, i did notice when pulling up ebrake I do not here the relay click in 6200 module like it did in my 1991 civic manual that also had a 6200 manual remote start. Any help would be appreciated becuase I am lost right now. I will test brake wire and tach wire sunday but unsure if the ebrake test means thatwas the right wire or not.

Sorry for long post!!

With key on ebrake down no volts with DMM red connector at 12volt battery terminal and black probing wire, with ebrake plugged it went to 2-3 volts but was fluctuating. Sorry meant to say with ebrake pulled up.

Yes, DMM testing is pretty much done as you stated. However, while the DMM will provide a very high
impedance to the circuit tested in the Voltage range ( AC or DC ), the Ohms range does not supply the
same isolation and safety. Unless you are troubleshooting a specific issue and exercise appropriate
cautions and methods, use only the Voltage ranges.
A recap :
Testing for a (+) signal ( like the Fits' ignition wires ) :
DMM set to 20V DC, Black test lead on Chassis Ground, Red lead on suspect wire.
Testing for a (-) signal ( like the Fits' Horn wire ) :
DMM set to 20V DC, Red lead on +12V Constant, Black test lead on suspect wire.
Test for a Tach wire ( AC signal ) :
DMM set to 20 V AC, Black test lead on Chassis Ground, Red test lead on suspect wire. Typical Tach
wires will read between 1 and 6 V AC, depending on the vehicle and circuit used ( coil, F.I., etc ) and
will rise slightly with added RPM's.

Here are the necessary wire connections :
CN1 6 Pin Plug
1 White ACC Orange @ Ignition Switch Harness
2 Yellow Starter  Pink @ Ignition Switch Harness
3 Green IGN   Yellow @ Ignition Switch Harness
4 Black Chassis Ground  Chassis Ground
5 Red x 2 +12V Constant  White @ Ignition Switch Harness
6 GREEN / WHITE (+) Parking Lights  Gray (+) @ dash fuse box, GREEN / WHITE 49 pin plug, pin 42

CN2 20 Pin Plug
1 Blue        not used or optional if using the wired in relay
2 ORANGE / Black (-) P.L. Reminder     Gray (-) @ headlight switch, BLACK/ White 12 pin plug, pin 11
3 GREEN / WHITE (-) Parking Lights      not used
4 Lt Blue (-) E-Brake ORANGE (-) @ PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
5 RED / Black (-) Starter Clutch bypass circuit
6 Lt Blue/White (+) Brake     Lt. Green (+) @ dash fuse box, GREEN / WHITE 49 pin plug, pin 14
7 Green      not used
8 Violet/Black not used - supplied by Blade
9 WHITE/ Black used for ACC2 relay - Purple wire
10 RED / White  not used - supplied by Blade
11 Black    not used
12 BROWN / White     not used
13 Orange  not used
14 Pink     not used
15 ORANGE / White   not used
16 Yellow/Black ( AC ) Tach  lt. grn, tan, blue, or red (or brn, red, blu, yel) ac fuel injector harness on driver side of engine
17 White (-) Horn    Orange (-) @ horn switch, White 20 pin plug, pin 1      optional       
18 Gray/Black (-) Hood        might be supplied by Blade, depends on Fit.   Test.
19 Violet   not used
20 Brown not used

CN3 20 Pin Blade Plug
WHITE/ BLACK        jump to Blade Blue / YELLOW
WHITE/ RED - UNLOCK (-) FROM DRIVER DOOR        to Fit 12 Pin Plug, Pin 1 White (-) At fusebox
WHITE - LOCK (-) FROM DRIVER DOOR        to Fit 12 Pin Plug, Pin 8 Green (-) At fusebox
ORANGE / BLACK - KEY DATA  to Fit Green 7 Pin Plug, Pin 3 Lt Green (DATA) @ Ignition switch
ORANGE - SWC      to Fit Green 7 Pin Plug, Pin 4 Green (DATA) @ Ignition switch
BLUE/RED - GROUND (-)     Chassis Ground
BLUE / YELLOW - DOORLOCK  jump to Blade WHITE/ Black


CN4 6 Pin Plug
1 Empty
2 Violet/White     not used - handled by Blade
3 ORANGE / Black not used
4 Blue   not used - handled by Blade
5 Blue/Black       not used - handled by Blade
6 Empty

Extra relay for ACC2 :
Relay Purple wire to CM6200 CN2 Pin 9 WHITE/ Black (-) 250 mA Accessory Output
Relay Red wire to Fit White @ Ignition Switch Harness
Relay Blue wire to Fit Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

Notes :
Blade is flashed with DL HA2 firmware.
All connections are soldered.
CM6200 GREEN / WHITE loop wire is intact.
CM6200 Jumper 3 set to (+) Parking Light Output
Tach Mode and successful Tach Learn
If the Fit does not have a Factory Hood Pin, the Compustar supplied hood pin is installed & used.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi kreg357,

     I just finished. The issue was I had the blade and 6200 20 pin connectors in wrong location. I swapped them by accident. Also had tach wire in wrong pin location as well. Works like a charm and doors work thru blade no extra hookup needed. I just want to thank you for replying to my posts. I really appreciated it and can't thank you enough.

Good Day!
Mar

Happy to hear it's all working.
The Compustar / Blade combination is a great system. Makes everything compact, uncluttered and very easy.

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Soldering is fun!