07 ion no starter wire

Well, tis' the season once again for remote starters. I have a customer who now owns a 07 ion. After a bit of research I've come to learn that there is no conventional starter wire. This is the first vehicle I've come across like this. My question is, is the Idatalink module ADS-AL-CA the solution for this? I know it'll be the fix for the anti theft, but i'm just not too sure on the starter wire issue.

Thanks

It should be fine. I have done about 6 cars that didn't have the traditional starter wire and they have all worked without issues. I used DB-ALL for those installs.
The first one I did it seemed odd not to connect a starter wire, but it works as described. Just did a 2010 Jeep last week, no starter wire.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

I've never used the express kits. The only local distributor around me for those is Canadian tire- and I'm sure they're over priced. I've always had good success with Idatalink.

So you think the ADAalca will perform the same as the xpress kit?

Thanks again

Actually, much better than the DB-ALL... (    , Mr. Smoke )     Have done a bunch of Canyon / Colorado's with ADS AL(DL) GM4, very easy and stable.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Does it really matter which idata I choose?

thanks

Either the ADS AL CA or the ADS DL will work and perform the same functions when flashed with the appropriate GM4 firmware.  The ADS DL is slightly less expensive but sometimes harder to get.  What brand R/S system are you using?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Back at ya Kreg...lol

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

I'll be using the prostart unit. I've installed them so many times, and I've only had one fail. When looking at specs for idatalink products, how do I know for sure what each unit can do for me. For example, where the ion has no start wire, in the idatalink descriptions it doesn't identify that. know what I mean?

thanks

You just dont connect a starter wire from the remote start. There are alot of GM vehicles like this. The starter cranks when the IGN1 has power and the ACC wire loses power. Use whatever bypass module you want that works on the car and connect everything as you normally would except the starter wire.

I picked up my module today- paid a bit more than I was expecting but it is what it is........

I would like to thank all of you that took the time to respond. I'll be doing the install tomorrow.

I sooooooooo hope all goes well!!

got everything hooked up. the idatalink module registered the programming correctly- so I proceeded to learn the tach, but the car wont start with the key. I'm gonna continue to recheck everything..but i'm getting stumped.......

the door locks work along with the trunk via the remote

Which Brand / Model remote starter did you use? 

Which bypass module did you get?  What firmware is flashed on it?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I used a pro start 3200. I've traced the problem down to the passlock circuit. I can take the idatalink out of the equation and it starts. when it's hooked back up, the park lights flash 3 times......

I used the gm4 firmware

is it possible that the idatalink schematic is backwards for the passlock hook up? I have the WHITE/ red wire tied into the yellow, which goes to the car side of the passlock wire, and the WHITE/ black goes to the connector side........

thanks for your reply- oh, and i'm using the ads-al-ca mod

Their WEB site is down again.      I can't get the ADS AL CA with ADS AL(DL) GM4 firmware install guide...   

Typically, their install guides are 100% accurate. 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I talked to one of their techs... and he said that it was possible that their was a faulty relay inside the module. I'm sooooo frustrated!! I wish I had an option.

Website down eh? hmmmm, I'm on it.........

A bad module is pretty rare...

What they don't show you on the Type 1 Diagram are some important remote starter connections.

The R/S thick Ignition wire should connect to the ION Main Ignition connector Dark Blue wire at Pin 3 along
with the ADS AL CA's Pink wire. 
The R/S thick Accessory wire should connect to the ION Main Ignition connector Brown wire at Pin 4
along with the ADS AL CA's BLACK/ White wire.

Also sounds like the bypass module didn't fully program.  Think I would do a Factory reset on it.  Set the
Install Mode again, then do the programming again.  Make sure to wait the 3 seconds at each step as
shown in the instructions.  ( Hold the key at START for 3 seconds, it won't grind / over crank ).

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all the replies. All it took was for the idatalink module to be reprogrammed. Phew!

Thanks to all once again!!

This Ion wasn't too bad of a job at all. If it weren't for the idatalink issue it would have went flawless!!

For future installs...use the orange wire on the ignition module for the tach. I believe it was marked "G" on the connector.