96 gmc sierra keyless entry with viper

I am trying to wire my viper 211hv into my sierra and cannot get it right and the violet/black fuse keeps blowing. i understand that i have the 5 wire system and that the 211 has built in relays.
I quick spliced the wires as following into the harness the plugs into the drivers side door;
GREEN/ black - light blue
WHITE/ black - grey
blue/black - white
BROWN / black - tan
Could someone please help me?

Two door or four door?
Just making sure, the to door is Type C and the four door is Type A.

Either way, you can follow the correct wiring diagram for the 211HV 6 lock relay wires found in the Directed 451M Install Guide ( in the Downloads Section ). The Relay Pins and wires colors are the same.

If you post back with the door info, we can even make-up a wire connection list to help.

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2 door.

H1/5 GREEN/ BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT cut Light Blue Lock wire - lock motor side
H1/6 WHITE/ BLACK LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED        cut Light Blue Lock wire - switch side
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) through fuse to +12V constant
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)        cut White Unlock wire - unlock motor side
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)        through fuse to +12V constant
H1/17 BROWN / BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED  cut White Unlock wire - switch side

The 451M Install Guide gives a pretty good description on how to test the wires, etc.

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Soldering is fun!

so motor side is technically the wire that goes to the door?
Thanks!

Im pretty sure i hooked it up just as you said and i still have nothing and the fuse still blew. i even tested for the switch side, I have done ALOT of automotive wiring but this thing is just kicking my ass. What could i be doing wrong?

Just noticed this note from Bulldog Security :
NOTE #2: if vehicle is a 2-Door it is a TYPE C door lock system, if vehicle is a 4-Door or if it
has a FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY System it is a TYPE A door lock system. If vehicle
is equipped with a FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY the vehicle is a TYPE A System.

If your truck came with Factory Keyless Entry, then you have Type A locks, even on a 2 Door truck.

It is also possible you have a wrong wire.  Download the Directed Tech Tip 1041 document.  It has some more
info on Door Lock systems.  See the notes in the Type A Locks for testing and differentiating.

Here is another tip posted on the Forum a while ago on Type C locks :

Lock Motor wire info :
Easy way to tell which side of the cut wire is the switch
and which is the motor, is to cut the wire and then press
the button. If it shows 12v it is the switch side of the
button you just pressed.  Some times it isn't always easy
to tell which end goes to the switch and which side goes
to the car.

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Soldering is fun!

It didn't come with factory keyless entry so it's a c. I swear I had it right but I will check again tomorrow.

Alright so i figured out that i had the motor/switch sides flipped, idk why i wouldve done that. so i pulled all connections off and tested for 12v again and got it wired up exactly how you said;
WHITE/ black - light blue 12v side
BROWN / black - white 12v side
GREEN/ black - light blue 0v side
blue /black - white 0v side
violet & violet/black - constant 12v
red - constant 12v
black - ground
yellow - ignition 12v
This time the fuse doesnt blow but nothing works
Do i need the 2 external relays for this system? or is there something i am missing here. Im feeling really dumb over this!

Strange problem.   

First, hook up the Parking Lights.  It might help with troubleshooting.  H1/10 White wire to :
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )  BROWN (+)  @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or FUSEBOX 
Make sure the 211HV's internal Jumper is set to (+) Parking Lights.

The 211HV has internal relays so nothing more should be required for this install.

Re-verify your Chassis Ground connection and also that the 211HV's H1 connector is fully seated.
The Violet and Red power wires must connect to a +12V source capable of 20 Amps.

Does the 211HV have a relay click sound when you press the Lock or Unlock button?  The Parking Lights
should flash, too.

Guess at this point I would get some 10 Amp fuses and a couple of jumpers.  I would test the White and
Light Blue wires manually to verify that I had the correct wires and that they can control the locks.

Initial test :  Re-connect both lock wires back to normal.  Verify the trucks door buttons function normally.
Use a DMM, set to 20V DC, Black lead to chassis ground, Red lead to either lock wire.  Press the door
lock  ( or unlock ) button and watch for a +12V signal.
Next cut the Light Blue Lock wire.  Press the door unlock button.  If the doors unlock, you have Type A locks.

First test.  Re-connect the White and Light Blue wires ( either by twisting the wires together or a jumper ).
Verify that the factory door lock buttons function properly.  Take a 10 Amp fused jumper from a +12V constant
source and briefly touch it to either the White or the Light Blue wire.  With Type C locks, you will blow the fuse.
With Type A locks, the locks will either lock or unlock depending on which wire you touched with the jumper.
If this operates the locks, re-wire the 211HV for Type A locks and you are done.

Second test.   Separate the Light Blue lock wire.   Touch the fused jumper to the Motor side of the wire.  The
doors should lock.  If the fuse blows, try the other side of the cut Light Blue wire.   Reconnect the Light Blue
wire and try the same routine with the White wire.  At this point you know you have Type C locks and which
side of the cut wires are motor and switch.  Wire the 211HV accordingly.

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Soldering is fun!

Okay, So i tested the h1/10 for 12v while pressing the key fob and it gave me it so i hooked it up to the lights and it made them flash, It was once for lock and twice for unlock. So we were good there.
I checked my ground with my test light and it was good. I also tested my red and my violet/black after the fuse and they both have 12v.
When i press the lock or unlock it does make the relay sound and when i press the lock it also sets the led to flashing.
I also did your tests and when i left the white connected and separated the blues, i put the 12v to the motor side and it locked and when i put it to the switch side the fuse blew so i hooked it back up the way you said for c lock and still nothing.
Am i able to test for an output on the unit?
Is there any way i could have wrecked the unit or gotten a bad one?
Thanks!

Well, you made some good progress. You definitely have Type C locks and are on the correct wires. You now have the Parking Lights working and
giving visual indications from the 211HV. You can test the 211HV's lock outputs with your DMM. I would disconnect the GREEN/ Black and the
Blue/Black wires from the vehicles lock wires ( motor side ). Then set the DMM to 20V DC, Black lead on chassis ground and Red lead on the
GREEN/ Black wire. The DMM should read +12V for 0.8 seconds every time you press the 211HV remotes Lock button. Same test can be run on
the Blue/Black wire pressing the Unlock button.

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Soldering is fun!

Alright, I took the GREEN/ black off and tested it and it read 0v i also did the same to the blue and 0v. I tested the parking light wire again and it reads 12v when i press it and all my inputs are still at 12v after the fuse.
Is this thing no good?

Don't want to say it's a bad unit but...
Last DMM check would be to verify that there is a constant +12V input right at the H1 connector on
Pins 7 and 9 ( Violet/Black and Violet ).  These are the wires that supply the internal lock relays outputs.

There are no Programming options that should affect this.  As a final attempt, pull the H1 connector off
and let the unit sit without power for at least 20 minutes.

This wasn't a re-furb unit off EBay, was it?

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Soldering is fun!

I unplugged it and tested it at the plugs terminals and i had 12v at them, left it unplugged for 40 min, went back and plugged it in again and tried it. Same situation lights flash and it makes the relay noise but the lock do not work.
I don't think it was, I bought it off of amazon.
Would you conclude that it is then defective?
Thanks!

Here is another test you could try.  The 211HV has ignition controller door locks as a default.  That means it should
lock the doors within 3 seconds of seeing the ignition go to ON.  It should also unlock the doors as soon as the key
is turned to OFF.

Perhaps there is another forum member that is real familiar with the 211HV that can step in a assist in doing a
transmitter dump / reset, then a transmitter learn.

Other than that, I'm out of ideas.  While I don't use the 211HV, I usually have the luxury of having an entire spare
kit available to swap with and continue troubleshooting.

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Soldering is fun!

Well, thanks a bunch for your help! I wouldn't have been able to figure all this out without you!

Heres an update, I purchase a new one and plugged it in to the harness I had already wired and it worked! So it must've been a faulty one. Thanks for the help!

Cool! Glad it's working properly now.      Thanks for the update.

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Soldering is fun!