2013 e150 van
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135293
Printed Date: April 23, 2024 at 4:15 AM
Topic: 2013 e150 van
Posted By: sparkyssb
Subject: 2013 e150 van
Date Posted: November 15, 2013 at 7:26 PM
Hello. I need the wiring for a 2013 Ford E-150 van. Also, any tips on wire locations on this vehicle? Thank you!
Replies:
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 15, 2013 at 8:05 PM
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx
https://techservices.codesystems.com/TechnicalIndex.aspx
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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: November 19, 2013 at 7:36 PM
The E Series vans are easy and the wires are pretty easy to access. The IGN harness is easy to get to and the park lights, brake, door locks and the triggers are at the BCM just to the right of the emergency brake. The only this you have to do ( when installing a security system ) is to relay and diode isolate the door triggers otherwise it will false the alarm within 10 minutes after the BCM shuts down and goes to a ground state.
Depending on the starter, you can program it to crank for 2.5 seconds since the new Fords have a tip start and will continue to crank until it starts. Use the iDatalink bypass module for remote start and you will need two keys to program the module.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: sparkyssb
Date Posted: November 20, 2013 at 2:13 PM
Thanks. I'm doing R/S only. However the key is very basic and I don't think I need a bypass for this truck. I know the 2009 E150 I did a few years ago didn't require one either.
Just FYI, I started wiring it earlier this week but I did something stupid. I tested a wire at the headlight switch that gave me +12v when parking lights were on and stayed +12v when switched to headlights. I figured this was a valid parking light wire to tap into. WRONG After applying +12v directly to it for a second to ensure the light lit, the parking lights and headlights turned on along with the dash lights and chime. They wouldn't turn off no matter what. The only way to kill them is to disconnect the battery or remove a total of 5 fuses.
A trip to dealer revealed it ended up shorting out the headlight switch. They replaced it and $250 later, everything is fine. I guess moral of the story, don't tap at the headlight switch on this truck! Heck, I'm even afraid to do it at the kick panel now.
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