Print Page | Close Window

1999 f150 ultra start and fortin bypass

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135391
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 2:35 PM


Topic: 1999 f150 ultra start and fortin bypass

Posted By: rheckbert3
Subject: 1999 f150 ultra start and fortin bypass
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 12:52 AM

Hi all,

This forum has been of great use and knowledge to me so far. I am about to install a remote starter in my 1999 Ford F150 5.4. I have an Ultra Start 1272pro and a Fortin Key override all bypass module. I am confused about the connections between the Fortin, Ultra Start and the truck.

On the ultra start I have a connector with WHITE/ Violet, Black and Red wires. According to the manual the WHITE/ violet is the ground while running for bypass unit turn on, the black wire is ground for bypass module and the red wire is not used. (1) Where do I connect these on the Fortin bypass? Do I connect the WHITE/ violet wire to the blue wire on the 6 pin connector of the bypass and dont connect the black wire of the ultra start?

I then would connect the D2D harness between the Fortin Bypass and the Ultra Start

(2) I then would connect the PURPLE / White wire on the bypass to the RX, Yellow/Black wire to the TX and the yellow wire to the ignition connector?

(3) Where is the ignition connector on my 1999 F150

(4) Do have to connect the brown disarm wire on the ultra start to the Dark GREEN/ Purple wire on on the truck behind the drivers kick panel becuase I have an alarm on the truck?

(5) Do I need to connect the rearm yellow ultra start wire to anything on the truck?

Thank you so much for any help you guys can give me,
Ricky



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 2:38 AM

On the Fortin bypass, cut the Connector 1 harness and connect the Red wire to the U1272's Red wire, the Black wire to the U1272's
Black wire on the U1272's 3 wire bypass harness.  Then connect the bypass 6 Pin connector Blue wire to the U1272's WHITE/ Violet wire.

99-02 F150        TX  Pin 4 WHITE/ LtGreen RX  Pin 3 Gray/Orange
These wires are in a White Connector about 8 inches down the steering column from the ignition switch.

A recap :
Fortin bypass 6 Pin connector
PURPLE / White wire goes to F150 4 Pin transponder connector, Gray/Orange wire
Yellow/Black wire goes to F150 4 Pin transponder connector, WHITE/ Light Green wire
Blue wire goes to U1272 3 Pin bypass connector WHITE/ Violet
Yellow wire goes to U1272 6 Pin harness, thick Blue wire ( IGN1 ) ( which also goes to F150 DARK BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  

Fortin Connector 1 Black 4 Pin  -  Cut
Red wire to U1272 3 Pin bypass harness, Red wire
Black wire to U1272 3 Pin bypass harness, Black wire

Here is a link to the Fortin bypass install guide :  https://ifar.ca/download/391/key-override-all_ford_f150_%281999-2002%29.rev-a.pdf



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: rheckbert3
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 8:41 AM
Thank you Kreg357!

But one thing is that According to the Fortin install guide. I can connect the data link 4 pin black connector on the bypass directly to the ultra start with out cutting any wires if I use it as data Link...is this correct?

And you said the yellow wire on the Fortin 6 pin connector goes to the thick blue wire 6 pin U1272 wire which also connects to ignition 1 wire on truck (dark blue/green). But the Fortin guide says the yellow wire from the Fortin goes to the ignition +12v wire in the white connector 8 inches down from steering wheel (next to RX and TX). Which way is correct?

Again thank you so much for your help!
Ricky




Posted By: shift_happens
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 10:14 AM
datalink is really not required for the key-override-all but you do need 12V and Ground on the Red and Black wires respectively from the 4-Pin black connector. The blue and white wires are for communication between bypass and remote starter. If the datalink protocol language is not set up right, you may have difficulties remote starting the car; cutting the blue and white out from the datalink is your best bet.

The yellow wire needs to see ignition On when remote starting. You can connect this wherever you want that has ignition when remote starting. Ideally, as Kreg357 said, just connect it to the Ultrastart ingition output.




Posted By: rheckbert3
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 10:36 AM
Ok Great! Shift_happens and Kreg357 thank you so much. I feel much more confident now.

The only thing left that I am unsure of is what about the de-arm and re-arm wires on the U1272. Do I need to connect these anywhere? How dose it arm and de-arm the vehicle. And I'm assuming I need these because I'm assuming my truck has an alarm system as it has a panic button and a pats system and a theft light in the cluster panel. Am I correct on assuming this and if so am I correct on placing those arm and de arm wires from the U1272 somewhere?

Thank-you
Ricky




Posted By: shift_happens
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 10:56 AM
If its equipped with keyless:

(-)Lock
    pink / YELLOW

    passenger kick panel


(-)Unlock
    pink/green

    passenger kick panel


Arm
" Arms when locked with the door open. To simulate, send a negative trigger to the lt. blue/white wire at the RAP module, located behind the light switch, while locking. "

Disarm
    (-)trigger

    Dark GREEN/ puple wire - driver kick panel





Posted By: rheckbert3
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 12:19 PM
Ok so I understand the lock and unlock triggers going to the pink / YELLOW and pink/green respectively

Are you saying I should connect the rearm yellow u1272 wire to blue/white RAP wire or is it not necessary?

And should I connect the disarm brown U1272 wire to the dark GREEN/ purple wire behind drivers kick panel or is that not necessary either?

Thanks again for the help. I just want to be completely sure
Ricky




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 12:39 PM

The fact that your Factory remote has a "Panic" button is not indicative of a Factory Alarm.  The theft light in the instrument cluster is
for the PATS1 engine immobilizer system.  Test your truck to see if it has a Factory Alarm by :
1. Roll down the drivers door window.
2. Open the drivers door, press the power lock button in the door and then close the door.
3. Wait 3 minutes.
4. Reach in and open the door with the inside handle.
5. Horn beeping = alarm

do the same thing but substitute this for Step 2 :
2. Press the lock button on the Factory remote. ( with all doors closed )

I would be surprised if you have the Factory Alarm, but you never know. 



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: shift_happens
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 12:39 PM
For lock and arm:
You want to trigger the Blue/white RAP wire at the same time as the Lock wire.
Split the U1272 Lock wire to do both Lock and trigger the Blue/White wire in the car. You would have to split the u1272 signal using 2 1amp diodes (line facing remote starter).

For unlock and disarm:
U1272 unlock wire to vehicle unlock wire
U1272 disarm wire to vehicle disarm wire




Posted By: rheckbert3
Date Posted: November 27, 2013 at 9:27 PM
Alright guys I'm stuck.

I have spent 5 hours from 4:30-9:30 installing the two moduals. I plugged everything in and I am not getting any thing that would indicate the system is getting power. I plugged everything in on the U1272 and then as I pluged in the connector 1 on the fortin while holding the programming button and then connected connector 2 and released the button. The LED was supposed to start flashing but nothing happened. I'm not sure what to do now. I'm going to have a look at it again tommrow and triple check all my connections.

Thanks for any advice
Ricky




Posted By: rheckbert3
Date Posted: November 28, 2013 at 2:37 AM
Ok so I figured out why I wasn't getting power to the system. The ground (black wire on 2 pin connector) apparently wasn't a very good connection.

And guess what....EVERYTHING WORKS!!

Thank you so much for all of your knowledge. Saved me a lot of headache but I had fun. But boy do I need a better soldering iron to handle the 14 AWG wire posted_image

I will probably put together a pictorial or something in the next few days and post it.

Ricky





Print Page | Close Window