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viper 5704 2000 honda civic install

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135422
Printed Date: May 12, 2025 at 4:54 AM


Topic: viper 5704 2000 honda civic install

Posted By: spadam
Subject: viper 5704 2000 honda civic install
Date Posted: November 30, 2013 at 5:31 PM

Hello all, new here. I posted this in Honda forum but stumbled on this site and thought I might get a better response here. I searched around a bit as well but didn't see the answers I was looking for. So here goes.

Okay,

Working on an install in a 2000 Civic LX. Hardware is all installed where I want it, I'm in the process of figuring out how I want to wire things up. Add-ons are the 520T, 506T, and 508D. I won't be using the remote start option, at least not at this time. The documentation states that the 508D cannot be used in the quick-connect ports, so I'm planning to run constant 12V/gnd to it and use aux 1 & 2 on the subharness for it.

I'm planning on exploiting the factory security harness where possible, I have the correct relays to plug into the harness for the starter cut and park light flasher. I'm undecided as to whether or not I should grab my 12V here (pin 10) or play it safe and go straight to the fuse panel. I figure I don't need the key-on power (pin 11) for anything though.

1) When probing wires in the green 22-pin security connector, I am getting closed (grounded) with the doors shut and open with them open (pin 2). Opposite of the FSM. Also shows me 12V when closed, which makes no damn sense if it is going straight to ground.

2) Ditto for the trunk latch (pin 3).

I think I've pared down the harness correctly, but it's worth asking.

H1:

H1/4 (parking light isolation) is removed. Everything else is intact.

3) I believe I should be jumping the on-board relay to (-) and running to the park light flash pin (17) on the OE harness plug, is this correct?

4) The orange should then go to the Starter cut pin (19) on the oe harness.

H2:

Of Note: The paperwork that came with the alarm list the pin numbers as so:

------------
1--------12
13------24
------------

while the installation manual pdf lists them as

------------
1-odds-23
2-even-24
------------

I'll reference the diagram that came with the alarm.

I've eliminated 2-6, 8, 11-1418, 20-24. This retains:

H2/1. Ignition 2/Flex (pink/wht). I think this is covered by H1/6. Correct me if I'm wrong and I'll pull it.

H2/7. Aux1 output (wht/vio). Planning on using this for zone 1 with the 508d, but it's listed as an output so I'm confused.

H2/9. Hood Pin input (gray). N/O. Good here.

H2/10. Trunk Pin (blue). Should be N/O, but my car is showing me N/C. Otherwise good here. Connects to pin 3 of the OE harness.

H2/15 Door input (grn). Same story as pin 10. Connects to pin 2 on the OE harness.

H2/16. Horn Output (brn/blk). Good here. Goes to pin 18.

H2/19. Aux2 Output (vio/blk). Planning to use this for zone 2 of the proxy. See #7.

3) Am I on the right track here, or wayyy off base? Input is much appreciated.



Replies:

Posted By: spadam
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 11:58 AM
I've gone and disconnected every one of the door switched and the trunk switch at their individual connectors.

With the battery disconnected, the door wire is open.

With the battery connected the door wire shows ground... and battery voltage... which makes no sense at all.

I'm pretty decent with electrical, but this has me stumped. Anyone?





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