probems with my first remote start

unit is a python 414. installed in to a ford five hundred.

Just got done with hooking up my electric start and it wont start. locks work and so does horn and light flash. when I hit the start button I get about 3 clicks out of the unit and that's it. I check the crank wire with a test light and don't see and voltage. I am not sure what I did.

thanks

Could you please list the wire you have connected from the remote start to the car, as well as the wire connections from your bypass unit. That way we can form a picture of what is going on.
Are you getting flashes from the parking lights? If so how many? It will tell you what might be wrong.

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Main Harness

Python 414  Ford 500      
H/1 red constant input    Red @ ignition switch harness    ***
h/2 black chassis ground Chassis Ground
h/3 brown horn output    dark blue(-) in steering column
h/4 whit/brown light flash isolation wire?)not used
h/5 white pin 30 of light flash relay?)        BLACK/ lt. green (-)    @ headlight switch
h/6 ground when armed output?)not used


     Door lock harness

1 blue (-) unlock output  pink/lt green (-) @ DKP
2 empty
3 green (-) lock output pink / YELLOW (-) @ DKP


     Remote start harness

h/1 pink(+)ing 1 input/output light GREEN/ purple @ ignition switch harness   
h/2 red white 12vdc constant input not used      
h/3 orange accessory output  gray / YELLOW @ ignition switch harness     
h/4 starter output dark green @ ignition switch harness       
h/5 red 12vdc constant for ign relayRed @ ignition switch harness    ***
h/6 pink/white ign 2 not used      
h/7 pink black flex relay input  not used
h/8 red black +12V input for acc/starter        Red @ ignition switch harness    ***

*** There should be two Red +12V constant power wires in the main ignition switch harness. Split the load between them.

H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT not used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT   chassis ground
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT     ???
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUTlt. blue/black (-)    @ driver kick
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT      pink/orange (-) @ switch
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT*       not used
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT       not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT        bypass module, if W2W mode
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT  not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT      not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT     not used
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT     not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT     not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT        RED / lt. green + switch
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)      ***Set to N.C.        PURPLE / orange (-) pin switch or SJB, conn. A, pin 6
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT        not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT      not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT   not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT any wire NOT red (ac) any ignition coil or F.I.

H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT     not used

I went with data to data with this


     PKFM Ford 500 Transponder connector
Pin 2: Green: TX Output Pin 3 WHITE/ Light Green       
Pin 7: Pink: RX Output  Pin 4 Gray/Orange
Pin 8: Orange: (+) Ignition Input Pin 1 Ignition

Do the dash lights light up? Does the theft light come on or flash?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Here are a few thoughts :

1.  Did you connect the Neutral Safety Switch and set it to ON?
2.  Did you Change Menu 3, Item 1 to Option 2?  Auto trans
3.  Did you change Menu 3, Item 2 to Option 4?  Tach Mode
4.  Did you perform the Tach Learn process successfully?

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Soldering is fun!

mike. theft light flash when useing car starter. lights do not come on when the button on the remote start is depressed.

kreg
1 yes
2 no
3 no
4 i installed a tach wire

wouldn't tach mode only cause a problem after car starts.

The theft light will flash if the bypass is not programmed correctly. It should be solid during remote start. When you remote start the led on the pkfm should flash, if it's not you probably have a d2d issue, I personally would just go w2w, it's only three extra wires and will eliminate any d2d issues. Your ignition wire on the PKFM should go to the main vehicle ignition, not the ignition wire on the PATS connector.

You will also have to set it to auto trans mode and also learn your tach signal.

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Just re-read your post about the connections you made. The RED / white h2 wire needs to be hooked up 12v. it powers the ignition circuit of the remote start unit.

Nevermind, didn't have the manual pulled up it powers the 2nd ign output.

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Are you getting any flashes on the parking lights after it fails to remote start?

All of your connections look to be good. Are your connections soldered? Did the PKFM program as it should?

As suggested in a previous post, try going W2W.

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I'm not a big DEI guy, but doesn't the RED / white need to be connected to 12v constant???

Edit: Just saw that other post. It sounds to me like you need to program it for auto transmission. Right now it's looking for the manual transmission sequence. Also, tach signal needs to be programmed. It is what tells the remote start when it is running... but since it is not even cranking, that is likely not your issue... unless the unit is programmed for tach mode without the signal ever being programmed...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

After taking care of the programming issues and doing the Tach Learn, try a remote start with the PKFM D2D harness removed and a working key held up against the ignition cylinder. Should crank and start. Then re-connect the D2D harness and try a R/S without the key near the ignition switch. If it does start / crsnk then try reprogramming the PKFM and / or switching over to W2W mode.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok I will try programing this 2 thinks it will be a couple of days. No garage at my house and it's cold it pa

I had this issue the first time I installed a Viper system, which is the same as the Python. I did not have the unit set for automatic trans. For some reason these units are programmed for a manual trans by default.

Let me know if that helps.

ok i finally got a chance to work on the car. i unplugged that dtod cable and programed the tranny. It work the car started with the key in the ingition. shut it off and tryed it with the key out and security light flashed and car wouldn,t start. put key back in and car started with remote again. i pluged the bypass back in and the remote start went back to doing what is doing before. i tryed unplugging the d2d and reprograming the electric start but cant get it to work again. so not sure what to do now.

learned the tach too

Sure sounds like the PKFM is not programmed correctly or the D2D port isn't working properly.  Might as well
switch over to W2W mode.  Here are the steps :
1.  Remove the D2D harness.
2.  Connect the PKFM Red wire on the 10 Pin harness to +12V constant.  H1/1 Red after the fuse.
3.  Connect the PKFM Black wire from the 10 Pin harness to Chassis ground.  H1/2 Black
4.  Connect the PKFM Brown wire from the 10 Pin harness to the 414's H2/9 Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire.
5.  Do a PKFM module reset.  Page 7 of the install guide.
6.  Do the PATS3 module programming.  Verify good LED responses.

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Soldering is fun!

wired the bypass up with out the d2d and electric start works fine. the problem I am having is programing the bypass. I do what the instructions say but get no response out of the bypass. I am just getting one flash every second. any help would be greatly apperated

thanksfor all the I got it to work.