2003 sport trac , avital 4103

The Avital 4103 has been a headache for me to get working on my 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, and I'm hoping you guys can help me fill in the blanks or correct what I've got. I combined the manual for the Avital from here, and the wiring info from here. For the 4 pin satellite harness, I already have the PATS bypass.

Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK    FACTORY ALARM DISARM      DARK GREEN/ PURPLE (DRIVERS KICK PANEL)
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE    FACTORY REARM
H1/3 YELLOW (+)          IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)   
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-)   ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5 ORANGE (-)           ROUND WHEN LOCKED
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT          YELLOW/LIGHT GREEN (STEERING COLUMN)
H1/7 RED / WHITE (-)     TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/8 BLACK    GROUND          BLACK (RADIO)
H1/9 WHITE (+/-)           LIGHT FLASH  WHITE/ BLACK (HEADLIGHT SWITCH)

4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE    STATUS OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-)   ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-)   STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-)    STARTER OUTPUT

Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP)      OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT           LT GREEN/ PURPLE (IGNITION HARNESS)
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT          RED / LT BLUE (IGNITION HARNESS)
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP)          OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT    BROWN (IGNITION HARNESS)
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT      YELLOW (IGNITION HARNESS)
5 PINK/WHITE (+)        PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION
6 RED (+) (30A)   HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT      YELLOW (IGNITION HARNESS)

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-)         UNLOCK OUTPUT          PINK/LIGHT GREEN (KICK PANEL)
2 EMPTY    NOT USED
3 GREEN (-)      LOCK OUTPUT  PINK / YELLOW (KICK PANEL)

Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE     TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE     TAN / YELLOW (PCM)
H2/3 BROWN (+)          BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE   LIGHT GREEN (BRAKE PEDAL)
H2/4 GRAY (-)   HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE  
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-)    200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

The BLACK/ White neutral safety wire needs to be connected to ground and I would remove the ground that is connected to the radio and connect it to a solid body ground somewhere in the kick panel .and there is another accessory wire that may need to be connected and its Pinl/ Black also found in the ignition harness. And what kind of bypass are you using?

-------------
triniforever

I'll have to check the bypass when I get home and I'll update you when I do.

Sorry misread your post but the ground wire still needs to be connected to a solid body ground and the second accessory wire and I correct my self is Pink/Black

-------------
triniforever

The bypass I have is the Xpresskit PKFM. If you know which wire is which on this unit, that would help tons.

triniforever wrote:

---

Sorry misread your post but the ground wire still needs to be connected to a solid body ground and the second accessory wire and I correct my self is Pink/Black

---

I'm also really curious where you found out about this secondary accessory wire. The guide posted on this website shows one that is BLACK/ green. Is the guide on this site incorrect?

You actually have 3 accessory wires on that truck Brown , Pink/Black and BLACK/ Green the first two I suspect are the ones that controls the heater and A/C which are the ones which you would want to connect to the remote starter ,the third one probably is the one that controls stuff like the radio , clock etc which isn't necessary when you remote start the vehicle . I have access to Directecs which is Directed Electronics website and is accurate most of the time lol . The specific connection for the PKFM to your car can be found on Xpresskit.com just enter the year ,make and model and then click on the instal guide . That's all to it        And good luck

-------------
triniforever

Triniforever, thank you. You are awesome. Any chance you could explain the factory rearm, ignition out, activation input and the round when locked?

Usually on some vehicles there are two wires one disarms the factory alarm and the other arms it , fortunately on this vehicle the factory alarm arms when you lock the vehicle so there is no need for the factory rearm wire on the remote start which usually sends a negative pulse to the rearm wire in the vehicle to activate the alarm after the remote start shuts down . The ignition wire (Yellow) on the 4103 usually connects to the ignition input of an aftermarket alarm if you have one on the truck ,usually to prevent the aftermarket alarm from false triggering when you remote start the vehicle ,and I suspect you don't have an aftermarket alarm on the truck this wire is not needed.The WHITE/ Blue activation input on the 4103 operates just like the remote of the remote starter if you press the start button once to activate the remote start then grounding the WHITE/ Blue wire once will activate the remote start and so forth. the ground while locked(Orange) wire on the 4103 is usually used for a starter kill on the ignition harness ofthe truck, so the vehicle can't be started when the vehicle is locked with the aftermarket remote .

-------------
triniforever

So I should be fine with leaving those 4 disconnected, correct?

Yes they can be left out

-------------
triniforever

I spent a couple hours working on it today, got everything hooked up properly, and it still didn't work. I eventually went back to the dealer, got a new one of the same model, plugged it into the harnesses, and it works. Now I get to play with the pats, but fortunately it's only 3 wires.

badkarate wrote:

---

I spent a couple hours working on it today, got everything hooked up properly, and it still didn't work. I eventually went back to the dealer, got a new one of the same model, plugged it into the harnesses, and it works. Now I get to play with the pats, but fortunately it's only 3 wires.

---

Go w2w and save yourself the headache!

-------------