2012 honda odyssey dome light supervision

Does anyone know the correct dome light supervision wire and location for a 2012 Honda Odyssey?

According to bulldogsecurity.com, commandocaralarms.com, and remoteready.com, the dome light supervision is INCORRECTLY stated as the pink wire (pin 10) located under the driver's dash in the rear green 16-pin plug (plug G). This wire is for the driver's door trigger. It does not detect when the other doors are opened/closed.

Interestingly, the wire listed for the door trigger on all 3 websites is the light blue wire (pin 22) located under the driver's dash in the front green 44-pin plug (plug E). This wire is also for the driver's door trigger.

The pink wire you stated you found as the drivers door trigger is what directechs lists as dome supervision. Did you hook it up and it not work? What are you installing?

I installed a Viper 5904 remote starter/security system using idatalink ADS-AL-CA can-bus module in D2D mode. The domelight supervision works correctly with the Viper. However, I also installed an overhead DVD player. I tapped the overhead DVD domelight to the oem domelight, but it does not work correctly when I arm/lock my van using either the oem or Viper fob.

I decided to tap into the oem domelight supervision wire (i.e. pink wire), but that is only for the driver door trigger. The light does not turn on when open any of the other doors.

There is no reason that the DVD domelight would not work correctly by tapping into the OEM domelight unless you either connected to the wrong wires (how did you test the wiring) or there is an issue with the vehicle that is causing it to malfunction.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The problem when I connect it to the oem domelight wire is that when I arm/lock the van with the oem or Viper fob, it eventually returns to ground, which will turn on the overhead domelight when the van is armed/locked.

This is the sequence when I tested the oem domelight wire (white):

1. Ground (0V) with doors closed and was armed/locked previously by OEM or Viper fob (OEM domelights are off at this initial point).

2. Ground(0V) with all doors closed and OEM/Viper fob used to actively unarm/unlock the van (OEM domelights turn on).

3. Ground (0V) with any door opened (OEM domelights turn on).

3. 5V when all doors are closed (OEM domelights dim).

4. 5V with all doors closed and Viper has been passively armed (OEM domelights dim but still on due to delay).

5. 12V with all doors closed and Viper passively armed (OEM domelights turn off).

6. Quick 12V pulse and then 0V if OEM or Viper fob used to actively arm/lock the van (OEM domelights are off).

For some reason, the oem domelight wire will return to ground in step 6. I can hear a relay switching when that happens. The weird part is that the oem domelights remain off even though the wire shows ground. Unfortunately, if I connect the overhead domelight wire to the oem domelight wire, it will turn on at this point unlike the oem domelights. I don't know if the idatalink module is causing the problem or if that is how the van is wired from the factory.

how many wires are there at the oem dome light?

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

There are 3 wires at the side oem domelight next to where I mounted the overhead. White = domelight supervision, black = ground, and blue = 12V. However, at the main domelight switch near the rear view mirror, there is another plug with about 12 smaller wires in addition to the plug with the same 3 wires as the rear oem domelight where I tapped the overhead domelight wire.

I think Honda tried to get "creative" and changed the domelight wiring from how other past Hondas are typically wired.

So the blue tested as constant 12volts regardless of door position and the black tested as constant ground regardless of door position... correct?

Without factoring the remote start or locks into the equation yet, how does the white wire test with the door open (light on) vs door closed (light off). Use the black lead of the meter on the white wire and red lead on 12v constant to test for an actual ground signal (rather than an open circuit)


-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The black wire is ground. The blue wire is 12V regardless if any door is opened/closed. However, it will eventually return to ground after the domelights turn off.

I haven't tried the reading the wire as you described. I put the black lead to ground and the red lead to the white wire. The white wire will show ground when a door is opened. It will show 5V when all doors are closed (lights dim). Then, it will show 12V when the lights turn off. It remain at 12V unless I actively arm/lock the van with the Viper or oem fob. When I do that, there will be a quick 12V and then it will show ground.

Unless your meter is set on continuity, you are not reading ground.. you are just reading a lack of voltage (which could be open circuit). Try testing it like I mentioned above. It sounds like the constant power wire is just simply timing out to prevent battery drain upon a door being left open.... but I'm not 100% sure on that.


-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I will test the wire like you mentioned and post what my meter reads. Your theory on the wiring is what I suspect as well.

Here's is what I found when I checked the wiring again.

1) The black wire is actually purple (it was dark the other day when I was reading the wires). That wire is definitely ground.

2) The white wire is the negative door trigger.

3) The blue wire is the constant 12V wire.

4) Both the white and blue wires will go eventually read ground (lack of voltage) if the van is actively armed by either the Viper or oem fob. This is to prevent any of the domelights inside the van to turn on when the van is actively armed/locked. Obviously, this to prevent the battery from draining.

I thought about switching the overhead dvd domelight polarity from negative to positive and tap into the blue wire. However, I realized that I would run into a problem if I don't actively arm/lock the van. The blue wire will remain at 12V, which will leave the overhead domelight on. This will just be the opposite of how it is wired now. Currently, the overhead domelight is wired to the white wire. The overhead domelight will turn on/off correctly unless I actively arm/lock the van, which will turn on the domelight.

So I think my only option is to wire the overhead dvd domelight to each individual door trigger and diode isolate each of the triggers since I cannot find the domelight supervision wire. Like I mentioned previously, the pink wire under the driver's dash is the driver's door trigger. I don't know why all of the websites including Directechs got it wrong.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Locking the van should have no impact on the dome light. If anything, it would trigger the dome light when unlocking, but locking / arming should not have any effect. I think you are looking way too far into this. How many wires are coming from the DVD dome light?


-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Only one wire goes to the DVD domelight. That input wire can be set to either negative or positive polarity. Right now, I have it set to negative polarity.

I disagree that locking the van has no impact on the domelight. When I lock the van, I can hear a relay somewhere in the dash on the driver side clicking. When the relay clicks, the constant 12V blue wire and the white wire (I am pretty sure it is the door trigger) show 0V.

I am not able to turn on the oem domelights when the van has been actively locked. When I do not lock the van and just close all of the doors, the domelights will eventually turn off (timer delay). However, I am able to manually turn on the domelights. Therefore, if the van has been actively locked, then I cannot turn on the domelights. Otherwise, I am still able to turn them on. This feature is to prevent the battery from draining.