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2010 f150 raptor, can not program dball2

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135580
Printed Date: June 09, 2025 at 12:33 AM


Topic: 2010 f150 raptor, can not program dball2

Posted By: jimpap75
Subject: 2010 f150 raptor, can not program dball2
Date Posted: December 20, 2013 at 1:47 PM

I had a reputable installer install my Viper 5904 alarm in my F150 however they are not a dei authorized installer. Everything seems to be working even my smartstart but I can not get past steps 3&4 programming the dball2. I flashed the module myself but there are options to check off and I didn't know what they did so I left them checked. I tried both d2d & w2w with same results. Light on dball2 stays constant red. I did talk to an authorized installer and they said the dball2 may be bad. They want to sell me one already flashed for $75. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also I am using the 2 key programming method. Is it possible that the dball2 is not compatible with my truck? I wish I found this site before because I would have installed the alarm myself.



Replies:

Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 10:15 AM
Anyone think the dball might be bad?




Posted By: prdjr165
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 10:54 AM
the last DBALL i used was missing the red wire on the blue plug-once i had that fixed it worked...so check all your plugs/wires...




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 11:18 AM
prdjr165 wrote:

the last DBALL i used was missing the red wire on the blue plug-once i had that fixed it worked...so check all your plugs/wires...


Just checked and all the plug wires seem to be intact. The red wire on the blue plug is there as well.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 11:43 AM

A few possibilities...

1.  You must have two, unique chipped keys to do the programming.  If you are using the original Ford factory keys,
     then you should be good to go.
2.  At steps 3 and 4 watch the instrument panel security light.  It should go out a few seconds after the key is inserted
     and turned to ON.  That is when you should remove the first key and do the second key, etc.
3.  Double check your connections to the TX and RX wires.  They should be soldered.  Here is some info from notes
     on a 2010 F150 ( Non-Raptor ) XLT :
       RX = Pin 4 = Yellow/Orange
       TX = Pin 3 = Violet/Gray
4.  Finally, any DB-ALL2 LED flashes during programming?  There is a chart on Page 18 of the install guide that might
     give you an indication of the proble.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 11:46 AM
kreg357 wrote:

A few possibilities...


1.  You must have two, unique chipped keys to do the programming.  If you are using the original Ford factory keys,
     then you should be good to go.
2.  At steps 3 and 4 watch the instrument panel security light.  It should go out a few seconds after the key is inserted
     and turned to ON.  That is when you should remove the first key and do the second key, etc.
3.  Double check your connections to the TX and RX wires.  They should be soldered.  Here is some info from notes
     on a 2010 F150 ( Non-Raptor ) XLT :
     RX = Pin 4 = Yellow/Orange
     TX = Pin 3 = Violet/Gray
4.  Finally, any DB-ALL2 LED flashes during programming?  There is a chart on Page 18 of the install guide that might
     give you an indication of the proble.




Mine is a Raptor.




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 11:52 AM
jimpap75 wrote:

kreg357 wrote:

A few possibilities...


1.  You must have two, unique chipped keys to do the programming.  If you are using the original Ford factory keys,
     then you should be good to go.
2.  At steps 3 and 4 watch the instrument panel security light.  It should go out a few seconds after the key is inserted
     and turned to ON.  That is when you should remove the first key and do the second key, etc.
3.  Double check your connections to the TX and RX wires.  They should be soldered.  Here is some info from notes
     on a 2010 F150 ( Non-Raptor ) XLT :
     RX = Pin 4 = Yellow/Orange
     TX = Pin 3 = Violet/Gray
4.  Finally, any DB-ALL2 LED flashes during programming?  There is a chart on Page 18 of the install guide that might
     give you an indication of the proble.




Mine is a Raptor.


Both my keys are original Ford keys and during steps 3&4 the security light on the dash goes out but the light on the dball stays solid red. I am thinking that the dball was wired for a regular f150 not a Raptor.




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 12:08 PM
kreg357 wrote:

A few possibilities...


1.  You must have two, unique chipped keys to do the programming.  If you are using the original Ford factory keys,
     then you should be good to go.
2.  At steps 3 and 4 watch the instrument panel security light.  It should go out a few seconds after the key is inserted
     and turned to ON.  That is when you should remove the first key and do the second key, etc.
3.  Double check your connections to the TX and RX wires.  They should be soldered.  Here is some info from notes
     on a 2010 F150 ( Non-Raptor ) XLT :
     RX = Pin 4 = Yellow/Orange
     TX = Pin 3 = Violet/Gray
4.  Finally, any DB-ALL2 LED flashes during programming?  There is a chart on Page 18 of the install guide that might
     give you an indication of the proble.




Also on the diagram I have RX is pin 3 and TX is pin 4.




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 12:10 PM
Sorry made a mistake, you're right RX is pin4 and TX is pin 3. I am going to double check right now to make sure they are in the correct pins.




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 12:27 PM
Just confirmed that RX & TX are in the correct pins.




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 1:26 PM
I think I found the problem. I was getting no power to the pink wire and I found it was connected to the alarm and not the ignition. Hopefully that fixes my problem.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 1:31 PM
It should be connected to the same wire the Vipers H3/1 Pink wire goes to.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 1:36 PM
kreg357 wrote:

It should be connected to the same wire the Vipers H3/1 Pink wire goes to.


I was just going to ask if that went to the wh/or wire coming out of the ignition switch connector and that is where the viper pink wire is connected to. Should the pink wire be soldered also?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 1:53 PM

Everything gets soldered....   posted_image    I usually hot glue the bypass module to the R/S unit and make that connection right near the H3 connector.  Keeps everything neat.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jimpap75
Date Posted: December 21, 2013 at 7:14 PM
I appreciate everyones help. I got it working and the dball programed. They had the pink wire connected to the alarm box not the ignition.





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