Viper 4103xv, 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix

I have 2001 grand prix that i am installing a viper 4103xv in. Im in the middle of trying to get everything lined out and ready to go before i start cutting wires.
I figured out most of it through this godsend of a forum but i still have a couple questions.

First..My car has no aftermarket alarm, only has the pk3 system and the theftlock in the radio, as far as i know. Do I need to connect the alarm disarm, the rearm and the (+) ignition outputs in the main connector (H1) to anything? If so where do they go?

Second...does the hood pin switch required for the system to work?

Third...Does anyone know where and what color the rear defogger output gets connected on my car?

Fourth...Im pretty sure my car only has one 12v source to ignition. So does both 12v input wires from the Heavy Gauge Relay get hooked into the only red 12v wire there? Or do I only use one of the wires from the Heavy Gauge Relay?

Fifth...What is the satellite harness for? Ive been unable to find any info on that.

Sixth...When wiring the door locks should i use wires for power door lock or wires to lock motor?


Im sorry for all the ???'s at once but this is my first time and i'd like to get it right.

Thank you for any help it is much appreciated.

Forgot to mention i am using the FLCAN for the pk3 bypass.

Assuming that it's similar to the unit I have sitting in front of me (Directed 4X03):

First of all: "All stop" until you have obtained a wiring diagram of your car's electrical system, have reviewed it, and understand it. This will answer most of your questions- such as the question in #1.

Second: the hood switch is required if you want the system to stop the engine if the hood is opened. Otherwise, ground that wire (assuming it's a negative input as most pinswitches normally are grounded)

Third: This is where that wiring diagram comes into play.

Fourth: again with the diagram. "Second ignition output" on my diagram is a pink wire with white stripe. Instructions specifically state that if it's not needed, don't use it.

Fifth: "Satellite harness". On my diagram it's 4 wires - Blue, Orange, Purple, Pink:
Blue: (-) status output
Orange: (-) accessory output
Purple: (-) starter output
Pink: (-) ignition outputs.

Good practice and electrical experience in various fields (including car audio/security a long time ago) tells me these all should be used to drive RELAYS, not interfacing directly to vehicle systems. Why do I know this? They're all outputs, small-gauge wire, and negative. This often means it's designed to go to a relay (or at the very least, it's a darn good idea, as it takes the potential for damage to smaller/cheaper components- relays- instead of frying the system brain).

Now you mention it, though- I don't see anything in my documentation about what these are designed for use as. I think it's there as a way to control functions via the RS system. It bears looking into, I will follow up and let you know what I come up with. Right off the bat, I can see this:
Blue: (-) status output - (Trigger my strobes so I can tell when the vehicle is under remote start. Parking lights would work too)
Orange: (-) accessory output - (Another "Accessory" system on the car? Would have to be separate from the vehicles main accessory systems (ie "hot when run"))
Purple: (-) starter output (really, I have nothing. Damn good question!)
Pink: (-) ignition outputs (see above. Gonna have to think on this one)

Sixth: Door locks: Identify the type of door locks you have, first. Rest at Positive, Rest at Ground, what? At any rate, I would recommend using the door lock outputs to run RELAYS which then interface with the door locks. Same reason as before: if you have a bit of extra draw through the system you want to replace a $8 relay, not a $100 RS brain. This honestly isn't such an issue if you get a new car every few years, but if you're like me and keep them a while, eventually the door lock motors will start to bind- drawing more current- and this could fry the traces inside the RS or Alarm unit brain. Of course, regular service helps, but who pulls their door panels apart and lubricates the door locks?

ABOVE ALL: If you are planning on just going with what someone on the internet says ("cut this wire, splice it in, and you're fine"), then STOP. Take the equipment to a reputable installer and let them do it. Yes it will cost money. But it will also SAVE you potentially thousands. ECUs and BCUs are NOT cheap. Your car is new enough that you probably have both.

No offense at all meant in this. You seem like you've not done this before. I am not trying to offend you when I say you have jumped in the deep end of the pool, and there be sharks there....

I and others on this board will help you any way we can- but when it comes down to it, if you fry your ECU we'll all feel real bad for you- but it's *YOUR FAULT*. Yes, there may even be laughter, I've been the subject of it as well. ;)

Another thing: if you're planning on using a test light, or logic probe for this install- don't. Use a quality DMM (and I'm not looking at Harbor Freight here). Test lights (except for very specific units, made for the use) are by their nature capable of frying the delicate circuits in the car's control units. I'm talking from personal experience here, as a professional installer... in 1991! The situation hasn't gotten any less complicated since then.

Please hook up a hood pin. Don't kill the guy that is working under your hood!

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buddholly wrote:

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Please hook up a hood pin. Don't kill the guy that is working under your hood!

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Wow, damn good point, that. I hadn't even thought of it!

OK I am sitting here trying to do the same thing, with a different alarm system.

OP, I will be posting another thread, titled "Hornet 740T and Avital 4003L RS". Find it here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135643~get~last#686411

I have some questions that I suspect may well assist you, but I don't want to pollute your thread just in case it's not applicable to you.

ok... so the wiring diagrams that i have found only show a disarm wire. Does this mean i only connect that to the (-)200mA FACTORY DISARM OUTPUT and do nothing with the rearm output and the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)?

If it makes you guys feel better i'll use the hood switch. Even though i am the one always under the hood.

Im having trouble finding a good wiring diagram of the whole car, at least one that shows something other than the radio and remote start. Any suggestions?



I think you misunderstood about the 12v ignition. i am looking at the 2 that say (+) (30a) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT. Both of which are red. Im with you on the ignition output.

As far as the satellite harness goes, if im not planning on using any additional relayed accesories then i dont need it correct?

It looks like my door locks rest at ground so i think ive got that covered.

Just to make this a lil bit more lengthy...I see nothing on my remote start diagram about door triggers. Is that normal?

robstout3 wrote:

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ok... so the wiring diagrams that i have found only show a disarm wire. Does this mean i only connect that to the (-)200mA FACTORY DISARM OUTPUT and do nothing with the rearm output and the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)?

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I don't have anything intelligent to add to that discussion- I am still trying to figure out if they're needed on my 1989 S10 Blazer, which had no factory alarm, and the aftermarket alarm I am installing has no such wire.... yet they are not listed as "optional"...

robstout3 wrote:

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If it makes you guys feel better i'll use the hood switch. Even though i am the one always under the hood.

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Bear in mind the idea of the hood switch is primarily to stop the vehicle RUN condition if the hood is tampered with. IE: it keeps someone from ripping out power to the alarm while the vehicle is running, which would give them a running, unsecured vehicle.

robstout3 wrote:

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Im having trouble finding a good wiring diagram of the whole car, at least one that shows something other than the radio and remote start. Any suggestions?

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Chilton manual, or Haynes. I always like to use multiple sources. Hey, I bet you could find a Factory Service Manual on them there Internets... google isn't just for porn anymore... ;)

robstout3 wrote:

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I think you misunderstood about the 12v ignition. i am looking at the 2 that say (+) (30a) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT. Both of which are red. Im with you on the ignition output.

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Yep, I'm with you on this. What I am seeing here is showing that those two red wires are 12V source to the ENTIRE board. So hook them both up. (as per the instructions I have here. I think we're both looking at the same unit, in a different plastic shell. DEI is famous for this! But I could be wrong!)

robstout3 wrote:

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As far as the satellite harness goes, if im not planning on using any additional relayed accesories then i dont need it correct?

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That's my understanding, and my approach on mine.

robstout3 wrote:

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It looks like my door locks rest at ground so i think ive got that covered.

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Seriously, verify this. There's some sources a couple sharp folks on this board gave me for door locks, let me get them for you (will post in another response following this one).. You don't want to have the wrong door lock interface- you can cause serious damage in a heartbeat!

robstout3 wrote:

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Just to make this a lil bit more lengthy...I see nothing on my remote start diagram about door triggers. Is that normal?

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So now I will review mine...

Nosir, I am not seeing any door inputs either. Just so I'm on the right track- you're interfacing this unit with an alarm, right? Doors should be handled there.

GREAT info on door locking systems:

kreg357 wrote:

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Here is a good reference on door locking systems to keep handy...   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708

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So useful I printed it out and it's been super helpful during my install thus far... I would double, triple check those door locks to make sure I identified them properly.

I was going to look it up on Directechs, but apparently one must be an installer or otherwise affiliated with a DEI dealer before they can access that.

So I referred to another of my threads and got some helpful info from the same guy again:

kreg357 wrote:

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Here are a few resources for wiring information...
The 12 Volt : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html
Bulldog Security : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Audiovox : https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Requires free sign-up.
DEI : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

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These have been helpful to me so far (and again, I am not presently a professional installer, so take that into mind)- Kreg357 seems to know his stuff, cold.

Well hopefully someone can shine us some light on the alarm outputs.

The hood switch makes sense when you put it like that.

Im with you on tht 12v ign input also.

Im gonna read your link on door locks here in a minute.

Not planning on usung any alarm. There is not one on the remote start and i dont believe there is an actual alarm on the car other than the pk3 in the ignition anf the theftlock on the radio. But i guess thats why theres no door trigger on my paperwork.

Hey, don't know if you've seen these vehicle-specific pages in your research:
-Another install on a 2001 Grand Prix:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~8793

-Bulldog security page for your exact vehicle:
(it's an Active Server Page, ecause Microsoft is stupid, so you can't direct-link)
.... so go to :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/
under support, click "Vehicle Wiring Diagrams". Then scroll down to your make, model, year.
This site is another treasure-trove of info:
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

robstout3 wrote:

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Not planning on usung any alarm. There is not one on the remote start and i dont believe there is an actual alarm on the car other than the pk3 in the ignition anf the theftlock on the radio. But i guess thats why theres no door trigger on my paperwork.

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In this case I have what may be a very stupid question:

How is it you plan to remotely start the vehicle, without an alarm of some sort to interface with this unit? Did yours come with a receiver and keyfob remote?

Yes mine came with the brain box and 2 remotes for start, lock, unlock and trunk open

Well in this case that seems a lot more clear as to why you'd be surprised there's no door pinswitches on the unit.

I guess it makes sense, though- you wouldn't want it triggering the alarm via the door pinswitch, when you're just trying to get into your running car.

I am still a little confused, in my case, as to how the alarm will know to ignore the shock sensor (and door pinswitches) when the car is running under RS. I will obviously have to isolate my door pinswitches from the hood and tailgate switches (I'd originally planned to run them all to the same circuit as the doors).

This is why I've been going through this slowly, though. It gives me time to chew onthings, consider the consequences of actions, and end up with a well-designed system that is completely stable, well-built, without being a tangled mess.

That said- I am sitting here with about 50 wires spread across my table, and a half-dozen relays... and finding I will likely need more. But I will be successful- I've performed engine swaps into vehicles that required more wires than this.

haha yeah..Id take engine swaps and/or rebuilds all day before i would this mess.

New info:

Regarding the 4-pin Satellite harness:

I don't know what they're all for, but I know what Pin 1 (Blue) is for:

It's to interface with Zone 1 of DEI Alarms (and surely others, but zone will differ) IAW the following extract from a Hornet 740T Install Manual:

DEI Hornet 740T Installation Manual, Page 19 wrote:

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[Bold]bypassing sensor inputs[/Bold]
There are times when you need to temporarily bypass all sensor inputs to the unit, such as when remote starting
the vehicle. Anytime an auxiliary channel output is used, all inputs are bypassed for 5 seconds. During the
5 second bypass period, ground can be supplied to the H1/6 BLUE wire without triggering the unit. When the 5
second bypass period ends, if the unit detects ground on the H1/6 BLUE wire, all trigger inputs except the door
trigger input will remain bypassed until 5 seconds after ground is removed from the BLUE wire. This can be done
using the status output of a 551T or 561T remote start unit as shown below:

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So what it does is it grounds out that Zone, and by internal logic in the DEI ACU (Alarm Control Unit), it tells the ACU to ignore ALL Zones for the duration, until it loses the Ground on Z1....

This answers the question I had- "how does the Avital 4003L Add-On Remote Start interface with the Alarm and tell it to ignore all sensors while under Remote Start?"

And yes, can also run strobes, and probably the Anti-Grind. ;)

Oh, clarifying:

This will disable all sensors on the alarm, EXCEPT the Door Pin input (Green wire on DEI products).

And of course you're probably asking why I am telling you about the 740T alarm system, when you CLEARLY state you don't have one, right? :)

Well, I x-ref'd to the RS unit install instructions, and it clearly shows that the Blue wire of the Satellite harness is providing the same "(-) Status Output". Easy, peasy... just don't forget to diode-isolate, with the silver band facing the RS unit.

Now, in your case- you don't have an alarm, so don't need this.

The Purple and Pink wires on the Satellite Harness (Starter Output, and Ignition Output, both (-)), could probably be used for an ignition kill. I'll have to look into that farther, but I don't think you'd have to concern yourself with it, anyway.