1998 gmc sierra has me confused

OK, I have a remote start installed on a 1998 K2500 GMC Sierra, 6.5 turbo diesel.

This is a new install.Everything is working except the remote start function.

I have the unit hooked up correctly as far as I can tell.

Pink wire is hooked up to ignition and meters batt voltage during run and crank.

Yellow wire is hooked up and meters batt voltage on crank.

White wire is hooked up to IGN2 and meters batt voltage on Run and Crank.

GM passlock is disabled in the PCM via reprogramming to turn it off. In either key start or remote start the "security light" comes on with the gauge test and stays off after the test. Pretty sure passlock is not the problem.The PCM is programmed to not even query the passlock module.

When the system is in valet or "unarmed", the truck will crank and start with the key.

When I use the remote start, the truck cranks but will not start. It tries three times and does a slight extended crank on the third attempt. No joy, will not run.

This doesn't seem to make sense to me.

Any ideas where to look next?

I should add that with the system armed you can turn the key and power the truck up but you cannot start it. The starter kill is engaged when system is armed,and disarmed in valet so that seems to be functioning correctly....

It would help to know what make/model the remote starter is and list your wire connections from the RS to what on the truck.

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Which Brand / Model or remote starter? 

Did you set the R/S system up for Tach Mode, connect the Tach wire and do a Tach Learn?

Did you connect the WaitToStart wire or set a fixed delay?

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kreg357 wrote:

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Which Brand / Model or remote starter? 

Did you set the R/S system up for Tach Mode, connect the Tach wire and do a Tach Learn?

Did you connect the WaitToStart wire or set a fixed delay?

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Sorry gents, missed some stuff I guess.

It's an Zenesis Z402AS, which is an easycar EW402AS rebranded. Zenesis is out of business for a year or two now IIRC. This was a NIB unit I picked up. Plastic seal wasn't even broken on the box.

No online link to zenesis install manuals, but here's a pic of the outputs on the unit itself:



The manual is the same, just a bit more detail on each connection.

The wait to start is hooked up and functions as per.

The tach learn went fine. flipped the dip switch and it beeped the one chirp to indicate learn and then I put the dip switch back. It is hooked up to the dash tach white wire and the WTS is hooked up to the WTS dash light wire.

It really has me quite confused as to why it cranks but doesn't run.

I've physically verified the wires are connected correctly ( I have a factory service manual with wiring diagrams), they're all tapped and soldered well, and they meter like they are supposed to.

Correct me if I'm wrong: but as long as it cranks and there's B+ on the IGN pink wire it should run right?

Even if the IGN 2 wasn't hooked up it should still run, just have transmission limp issues. Of course, I also have the white IGN2 wire hooked up so that's not and issue either.

Very confused....

Actually, it just struck me that I don't have the shock sensor hooked up yet.

The unit keeps B+ on the IGN1 wire when remote starting, but I'll plug it in tomorrow morning and see if it makes a difference.

I'm skeptical though, since it still meters B+ when cranking....

Truck:

Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4

Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6

Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1

White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output.

I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual...

gr8twhite wrote:

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Truck:

Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4

Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6

Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1

White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output.

I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual...

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Are these electrical tests based on the fact of you testing with the key or testing while attempting to remote start?

How is the relay wired for the "white" ign2 vehicle wire?

Is the selectable Green -250ma in CN8 pin-1 programmed for IGN 2 not ACC2?

Test the vehicles "White" and "Pink" IGN wires in the truck to make sure voltage doesn't drop out during crank when the vehicle is attempting to remote start. If one or the other drops voltage during crank the vehicle wont start.

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pts760 wrote:

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gr8twhite wrote:

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Truck:

Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4

Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6

Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1

White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output.

I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual...

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Are these electrical tests based on the fact of you testing with the key or testing while attempting to remote start?

During remote start

How is the relay wired for the "white" ign2 vehicle wire?

The 250ma triggers the relay, the relay supplies B+

Is the selectable Green -250ma in CN8 pin-1 programmed for IGN 2 not ACC2?

IGN 2

Test the vehicles "White" and "Pink" IGN wires in the truck to make sure voltage doesn't drop out during crank when the vehicle is attempting to remote start. If one or the other drops voltage during crank the vehicle wont start.

No voltage drop. They both see B+

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Answers above. This is why it has me confused. No idea why it is not starting. There is an IGN3 in the wiring diagrams, but it is for sub systems that are not for "run".

Apologies, answer one should have been OEM wiring tested with key on/off and verified the same when using remote start. All done with DMM.

Well, sure enough passlock was messing me up.

I metered the value from the hall sensor, made up a resistor pack to match, spliced it in and:

Varoom.

Remote start functions.

Time to dig back through the ecm coding and see where to turn that bloody password handoff between the PCM and the evo module is.

Damned thing is, the PCM is already set to off and I never have to do a relearn procedure when swapping pcms.

Something is weird here.

Anyways, on to finishing the alarm/remote start.

I just uploaded a couple of Zenisis Files. Don't know if they are same as your system or not.

EasyCar Zenisis Remote Start

Zenisis ZN502 Install Guide

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smokeman1 wrote:

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I just uploaded a couple of Zenisis Files. Don't know if they are same as your system or not.

EasyCar Zenisis Remote Start

Zenisis ZN502 Install Guide

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Thanks, I appreciate it.

But I have both the user manual and the installer manual already. Came in the box with the system.

Cheers.

Well, it's all in and working as per.

Gotta say, I actually like the system. Lots of features and easy to use. Little bit of a learning curve in becoming familiar with the button combinations for anything besides the basic functions, but it's like that with any "new to you" gadget.

Seeing how I only spent 50 bucks on it, seems like a good deal so far.

Time will tell how reliable it will be.

But I often find "reliability" is in the installation as much as it is in the product itself. I'm all soldered connections, neatly loomed and carefully routed so that should be good to go.

I also know where I can pick up more of these "zenesis 402" systems very reasonably.

I may buy another 1 or 2 so I can have a couple spare "brains" around just in case.

Heck, for what I would pay for a couple spare remotes I can get a complete NIB system, which would give me a spare lcd remote (and a couple regular remotes) anyways.

Next up: use some of the aux outputs to make an "anti-jacking" feature and maybe something to activate fast idle on my diesel for faster cold winter warm ups.

The unit has anti-jacking, but you have to choose between starter kill and anti-jacking. I chose starter kill since it also gives the anti-grind feature.

Fast idle will be super easy on my truck, all you have to do is provide a ground for a pin in the PCM harness. Easy peasy with a simple relay.

I still have to install the "auto up" module to give me window rollup on lock. That's for another day because I'm just plain tired of working on it for now.

I also have an IGN2 still available. I "carcked it up" when I did my install and ended up using a relay to give IGN2.

Apparently, I had my dunce cap on when I tried to run IGN2 and didn't realize that the IGN2 output on the unit was pull to ground. I tried to trigger a relay with it thinking it was + and when it didn't work, I figured it was a dead output and just went with a relay triggered off IGN1.

So, I may just use IGN2 on the unit (selectable between ACC and IGN2) to power the other accessories in the car like blower motor for winter heating and summer cooling. Dunno, that's down the road a bit too.

Just going to enjoy the AS for a while before getting in under the bloody dash again...

:)

Hmm, now that I think about it, that AUX2 output is also pull to ground. I might be able to just use it directly to ground the fast idle pin....

Well, chuck another curve ball in my direction.

I decided to hook up the dome light on/off with lock/unlock.

Neg output and 250 Ma. Easy enough: chuck a relay in and Bob's yer uncle right?

I hook it up to the relay so the alarm pulls ground and: Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Throw in a couple curse words for good measure.

Well that's the second time an output from that harness that has given me nothing so I pull out the DMM and start checking. Maybe the plug is dead on the board.

The DMM shows it's actually supporting 350Ma, 100Ma more than the manual spec and more than enough to trigger a relay. So what's going on?

I flip the DMM over to volts and get a 6V reading.

Sunova......it's set up for a 5V relay.

Well that's a PITA.

Who builds a car alarm/starter with 5v output?

I do not feel like ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive from Hong Kong or wherever. Even then, I'd end up with some stupid micro relay better suited to a computer board or similar application.

Not ideal and most max out around 10A. Enough to power things like the dome light, but it's not going to be enough to run things like ACC 2 for heater motors and the like. I need 20A, 30A or 40A automotive style relays.

So how do I make a 5V signal trigger a 12V coil?

Time to make a simple amplifier/switch.

I grab an NPN transistor from the spare parts bin, a resistor, a diode, some heat shrink, the glue gun and a couple female spade connectors.

A little soldering and I have an amplifier that steps up the 5V signal to 12V and it triggers a 12V relay just fine.

Since it's a negative trigger, I just drop it into the negative side of the relay coil and we're good to go.

No special relays, no fuss, no muss.

Happy again.

A nice simple circuit I can make in a few seconds for all the other outputs and use conventional 12V relays.