2003 mustang remote operation engine on

Hi guys

I did a real stupid thing and lost my spare key to my 03 mustang.  GOing to the dealer to get a new one made. 

I have a few remote fobs, but Ford in its wisdom disables the remote when the motor is running. So, say today its 15 below and I wanted to warm up my car, I had to leave it unlocked.

Is there any easy way to disable or fool the GEM to allow the remote fob to work while the engine is running with the key in?

The car is completely stock, no aftermarket alarm or remote starter.

Thanks.

I wonder if this is something the dealer can change the setting on. To be honest, I don't think I've ever seen a Ford that the remotes shut off with ignition. I couldn't begin to tell you the number of lock/lock remote starters I've installed on Fords.

I looked through the owner's manual and did not see anything mentioned about it. It may be a feature that is only programmable using a tool.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

It seems to be very common on ford products. I was reading thru different forums, and drivers in cold climates would like the idea of being able to start the vehicle with the key, or even leaving it run for a minute at the quicky-mart when its bitter cold, lock it with the factory remote and then unlock.  With the engine running, the factory remote lock/unlock system is disabled.

I may just get a plain key cut, only to open the doors. I know it wont start the car, but thats next on the agenda.

Hi,
Put your key in the ignition, turn it back to accessory position. Sit inside, shut the door and see if the remote operates the door locks. If it doesn't, then the GEM has an accessory input that disables the remotes. If the remote does work then it's an ignition input.
From diagrams online, the GEM has two accessory inputs and one ignition input. These can be temporarily disabled by removing fuses in the fusebox under the dash. Fuse 2.32 (radio) and fuse 2.43 (windows) are the accessory ones. Fuse 2.28 (gem) is the ignition one. The fuse, that when removed, allows the remotes to work is the circuit that needs to be isolated.
Mark

Mark,

I tried your advice. With the key in accessory position, the remote works - door locks lock and unlock and trunk opens.

With the key in the "on" position, the remote is now locked out.

So with this info, what circuits do I look at? My fuse box is under the hood. Not sure if there is one under the dash.  Isnt there a wire that I can modify at the GEM connector?

Thanks.

I like Ween's idea----what he's trying to say, is that instead of cutting random wires until you figure it out (and having a car with a bunch of cut-and-spliced wires), you could try removing fuses to aid you in knowing which wire to cut.

So, what I think he's saying your next step is:

1: Remove that 2.28 fuse.
2: See if car starts and runs. Check for warning lights, non-operation accessories, and so forth.
3: See if OEM keyless works with car running.

Then, if and only if the above all checks out:

1: Locate GEM.
2: Locate ignition wire to GEM. You should have a tool to test wires , and the ability to use it. Put the fuse back in, put your tester to the wire, turn your key on. Wire should have positive power when key is in Run and Start positions.
3: Cut that wire, and again test the car for proper operation of all accessories, and for OEM keyless while car running.
4: Consider whether to just tape off the wire you cut, or maybe connect an inline toggle switch in case you need to quickly put the car back to original specification. For example, you might need the ignition wire to program a new keyless remote.

TIPS:

A: Leave a window open while doing all this. You'll be playing around with the doorlocks, the key will be in the car, and you don't want to lock yourself out.

B: As mentioned above, there is debate about how to test wires and what tool to use. A digital multimeter is safest, a regular old-fashioned test light will work but can do lots of unexpected things (including damage) if you go around probing computer and airbag wires. I have no real comment here other than to say look at the old posts, read all the tutorials on the forum, and make an informed decision.

C: Even if you're not going to go and buy another expensive immobilizer key for your Mustang, go down to the hardware store or locksmith or wherever they make keys, and get yourself a regular, non-chipped key for a couple bucks. It won't start the car, but it will open and close the door at least.

Chris,

I was just looking at the diagrams in Alldata, but their electric diagrams are poor at best.  I'm an electrical engineer, and well equipped to diagnose and test the systems.

I figure it this way:  there must be a way to bypass the remote lockout while the engine is on, otherwise remote starters would never operate right. 

I park in an indoor heated garage so no problem to poke around.  I will try the fuse thing first and see what happens.  If that "solves" the problem - super!  I will be getting some non-chipped keys done for safety sake, but I will have another chipped key done.

Thanks for the help. I will post my result.