2006 dodge ram 1500 avital r/s bypass?

Hello all,

I just recently purchased an Avital 4113 remote start kit for my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500. I found the wiring chart/diagram on the bulldogsecurity.com website after seeing the instructions that came with the kit were lacking. On the wiring chart from their website it has a note about the Chrysler Multiplex Ignition/Anti-theft System and saying it will require a interface bypass module. My truck does not have power windows, locks or an alarm. It is a very basic truck. It does have the black plastic key without buttons. Is this an RF system key? I've searched high and low trying to find a straight answer on whether or not this specific truck requires an interface module. Possibly an Xpresskit CHALL or iDatalink. Should I do the "key wrap" test? I imagine that the truck will be multiplexed regardless of the trim package. Any advice and recommendation on the use and model of bypass module would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

P.S. I used to work for a Freightliner dealership and I am familiar with the multiplexing, however, that was in a class 8 truck.

Looks like this might be a real easy, basic install.  With no power locks, no Factory alarm and a Black key, it should be
straight forward.  The Black key typically means no transponder system, while a Gray key means transponder system
and bypass required.  Have you tried using a plain hardware store made $1.99 key to run the truck?  That would be the proof.

Here is a link to a more complete Avital 4113 Install Guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1212

Here is a link to the basic wiring info for your truck : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Dodge&model=RAM

Here is a link to the Tech Tip #1084 mentioned :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=517

Here is a link to the (-) Parking Light diagram :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/153_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_CHRYSLER%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

You will need 3 relays and some resistors.  Hopefully you can obtain the resistor values you need at RadioShack.  There are
ways of combining resistors to make the correct value.  Resistors in series just add together.  Resistors in parallel are
different.  Here is a link to a calculator program :  https://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm

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Soldering is fun!

Wow! Thanks for the great links and info. I first need to figure out whether the vehicle has a transponder system or not. My key definitely isn't the original to the truck, but I wasn't the one that had it made. It is just plain black, however it does have "19R2" on the back. Is this just an item number or would it have anything to do with the transponder system? I may just go out and have another made and see if that will start the truck. I would be nice to not have to use the bypass module if I didn't have to. I did go out today and get a Flashlogic FLCAN in case I needed it. The salesman said that would work for Chrysler products and specifically my truck.

Any more thought on the key with the added description?

Not really.  Getting a hardware store plain key is an inexpensive test, plus it gives you a spare key.  Here is a link to another test you can try :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~134973~PN~1

The FLCAN bypass module is a bit of over-kill for your truck.  It can do a lot for you besides the transponder bypass but your basic truck doesn't relay need it.  Additionally, the FLCAN must be flashed with the DL CH5 firmware prior to use.

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Soldering is fun!

Well, I just tried the foil wrap test and the truck started fine. I'm still not sold though. I'll probably just go get a key made here in a minute and then I can know for sure. Also, I bought the FLCAN at Best Buy and they did flash it for me. When I got home however, I noticed the box said "CH4" instead of "CH5". When they flashed it, did that change it to CH5 (which is what the Flashlogic site said my truck required)?

That white label on the box indicates which firmware was loaded at the factory.  It can changed by anyone with an ADS USB cable.  The FLCAN will handle the MUX wire for you.  Here is a link to a Pictorial on your truck ( one with a transponder and power locks, etc ) :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130085&tpn=1&PN=1

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the link. I actually just went and had a key made and my key does not have a transponder. They had a tester at the store and I tried the new one they made me and it starts the truck fine. So I imagine this means I wire the remote start kit up as is without any type of bypass? And then the relays for the 2nd start/accy like in the link above.

Any info on what the "Satellite Harness" is in this Avital 4113 kit? I went through the PDF manual in the link and it doesn't say much. It has 4 wires: Status Output, Accessory Output, Starter Output, and Ignition Output.

The 4113's Satellite Harness has low current (-) outputs that typically are used to control any needed relays for additional
ignition wires.  In your case, if you follow the TechTip 1084 diagram, you can use them for the relays that handle the
PURPLE / Brown ignition MUX wire.   With the 1084 relay circuit doing the MUX wire the trucks other ignition wires would be
powered by the 6 Pin heavy gauge wires, as shown below :

1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT    pink/white (+)  ignition harness
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT          dark GREEN/ YELLOW (+)  ignition harness
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT   not used       
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT      +12V constant ( battery )
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACC2 OR IGN2                 not used
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT    +12V constant ( battery )

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Soldering is fun!

Ok great! So before I wire this up, referring to the 1084 relay circuit diagram, the "orange negative accessory" and "purple negative start" wires are coming from the satellite harness at the controller. The "vehicle 2nd start/accy" wire is the PURPLE / brown MUX wire in the ignition harness. Is this correct? And do you know which resistance values I should go by for my truck since it isn't listed? By the way, I greatly appreciate all of the help kreg357!

Yes, that is correct.  The resistor values are 180 Ohms for Starter and 610 Ohms for Accessory.

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Soldering is fun!

Alrighty, I guess I'll hit up RadioShack tomorrow. I really appreciate all of the help. Hopefully I'll have the time to get this done within the next couple days.

Another question: What wattage resistors should I use for the starter (180 Ohms) and the accessory (610 Ohms) circuits? 1 Watt, 1/2 Watt, 1/4 Watt, etc.

1/4 watt is fine. 

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks again!