2010 mercury mariner, avital 5303

Can anyone with directwire access post the wiring for a 2010 Mercury Mariner. Thank you.

check the vehicle wiring section of this site. Both the mariner and escape are listed.

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Advanced

Only 2008 Mariner is listed.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - MERCURY / MARINER / 2010 / Remote Start

12volts yellow/red (125A) + SJB, black 1 pin plug (G), pin 1

Notes: The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the front passenger side of the center console.

Starter blue/white + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 7
     
Ignition WHITE/ orange + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 1
     
Accessory PURPLE / green + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 6
    
Keysense blue/gray + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 5

Power Lock blue/green - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 17

Power Unlock yellow/purple - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 4

Notes: Also found at the inertia fuel shutoff switch in the passenger kick.

Lock Motor gray/brown 5 wire driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 6

Unlock Motor blue/green 5 wire driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 28

Parking Lights+ PURPLE / white + driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 20

Parking Lights- blue/gray - headlight switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 31

May need to interrupt the headlight switch ground when triggering this wire. It is BLACK/ blue at the headlight switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7. See Tech Doc 1096 for wiring information.

Hazards BROWN / yellow - hazard switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 48

Turn Signal(L) blue/green (F); gray/brown (R) + SJB, black 26 pin plug (F), pin 21; black 32 pin plug (D), pin 25

Turn Signal(R) yellow/purple (F); PURPLE / orange (R) + SJB, black 26 pin plug (F), pin 23; black 32 pin plug (D), pin 26

Reverse Light GREEN/ blue + driver kick, harness to rear

Door Trigger GREEN/ purple - N.C. driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 14

Dome Supervision gray/purple + driver kick or SJB, gray 14 pin plug (A), pin 9

Trunk/Hatch Pin gray/orange - N.C. driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 16
       
Trunk/Hatch Release brown (liftgate), brn/yel (glass) (rear handle sw) - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pins 7 and 20
      
Factory Alarm Arm PURPLE / green and YELLOW /GREEN (w/driv door keypad) both - driver kick, door harness

Factory Alarm Disarm PURPLE / brown (driver door key unlock) - driver kick, door harness
    
Tachometer grn/blu, gry/yel, pur/gry, yel/org, brn, or grn/wh ac any fuel injector, 2 pin plug, pin 1
     
Brake Wire PURPLE / white + brake switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 40

Parking Brake WHITE/ purple - parking brake switch or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 1

Horn Trigger brown - horn switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 41

Memory Seat 1 N/A     
Memory Seat 2 N/A     
Memory Seat 3 N/A     
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
SecuriLock
Part #: XK04
Alternate Part1 #: 556SW
Alternate Part2 #: 1100F/1100X
Alternate Part3 #: 556UW
Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part5 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models. When using the XK04, it needs to be programmed with the PKF3 firmware. When using the 1100X, a software change to 1100FM is needed.



      
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.





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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thank you

I am looking for info on the door triggers for a 2010 Mariner. I know it lists GREEN/ Purple, but I've also read that sometimes they need to all be connected and diode isolated. Any advice for this particular application? If all triggers are needed can anyone provide the trigger wires color and location. Thanks

Avital 5303 being installed

I am wondering does the (-) GREEN/ purple door trigger wire in the kick panel take care of all the doors or I have read on some vehicles need all separate triggers hooked up through diodes is this the case? Being installed is an avital 5303. Also the truck from factory has 2 phase locks and also dome supervision when you unlock the doors. Do these features need to be wired into the alarm or will they work as they do now from factory?

Thanks for any help in advance.

The - GREEN/ purple n.c. door trigger is only for the driver door. It's easiest to get the + gray/purple domelight wire for door trigger in that vehicle. You will want to program door error chirp to off if you use the domelight wire. If you want to go for each individual door trigger then you need to use tech doc 1921 which is available in the downloads section of this site. It will explain how to interface with normally closed door triggers.

If you are connecting the avital doorlock wires to the vehicle doorlock switch wires, then whatever the car does when you press the switch on the door is what it will do when you press lock/unlock on the avital. If the domelight turns on when you press unlock on the switch then the domelight will turn on when you press the avital unlock button.

Also, when you press unlock on the doorlock switch it unlocks all doors so that means when you press unlock on the avital it will unlock all doors. This is assuming you are using the doorlock switch wires.

You can isolate the driver door motor to regain your 2 stage unlock if you like.

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Advanced

Will the dome light act as single door triggers would or would I benefit from just tapping each trigger? Also if I need to tap each trigger would you happen to know wire colors and or location? Also what would need to be done to isolate the door locks to retain 2 stage?

Will the GREEN/ purple negative trigger take care of all the doors? I've seen different wiring diagrams that list an all trigger and separate pins for all doors for different year escapes. Nothing pertaining to 2010 or a mariner.

Thanks for the help

It might, the only way to know is to test it. Hook up the one wire and open each door while it's armed.

If you have a light on the dash that tells you which of the 4 doors are open, you will need to diode isolate all 4 doors and tie the diodes to the door trigger input.



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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

The avital 5303 has a 2nd status output that can be programmed to turn on rear defogger under 55 degrees. I would also like to attach the heated seats to this output also. Would a relay be needed? If so can someone help me with wiring.

The status output only puts out 500mA... A relay would be wise. :) Can't go wrong with a relay!

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

How would the relay be wired?

I don't have any data on the heated seats or defroster, so I'm not sure whether you'll need a (-) or (+) pulse/latch output.

The basic setups of relays are located here: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagrams.asp

The heated seats and defroster will need to be metered to find the right wire and setup I'm sure.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

The seats and rear defrost are both negative latched. Will this work for the relay?

30-ground
86-negative output from Alarm
87-negative output to rear defrost and heated seats
85-12v input

Yeah, that looks good to me, as long as they're negative latched.

It's good practice to always put your ground leg on pin 85, so switch 85 and 86. It's also good practice to put the load (output) on pin 30 and use 87/87a as the source.

Your diagram isn't wrong and would work though!

Here's what I would suggest:

30-negative output to rear defrost and heated seats
86-12v input
87-ground
85-negative output from Alarm

It just makes it easier for people to troubleshoot.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Can anyone tell me what wire colors to test for the door pins? Also are they only accessible at the kicks or can they be reached at the sjb?

Here is some info from Audiovox :
All Door Trigger GRAY/VIOLET (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
LF Latch GREEN/ VIOLET (OPEN) SMART JUNCTION BOX   
RF Latch WHITE (OPEN) SMART JUNCTION BOX   
LR Latch GREEN (OPEN) SMART JUNCTION BOX   
RR Latch YELLOW (OPEN) SMART JUNCTION BOX

Test for the GREEN/ Violet "All Door" trigger as a standard N.O. (-) type trigger signal.

The actual door trigger's listed are N.C. and would need a DTIMazda module or the DEI TechTip #1921 to be used by the after-market
alarm system.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks, so when you say test the GREEN/ purple for all door did you mean the gray/violet? Or is there a chance the lf will take care of all?

Also if the all door trigger takes care of it does it still need the module or is that for going at each pin separately? Can you share the tech tip needed?

If the "All Door" trigger provides a standard (-) N.O. type trigger on all the doors, then use that as the lone input to the alarm system. The
Gray/Violet wire info was just a cut and paste from Audiovox.

If it doesn't work as an "All Door" trigger, then follow TechTip 1921 using the four N.C. trigger wires. Here is a link :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1121

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Soldering is fun!

The direct wire guide lists a power lock and power unlock as well as a unlock motor and lock motor wire. Will the unlock motor wire take care of the driver door for 2 stage locks and power unlock the rest on a 2010 mariner?

What would cause the avital 5303 remote start to start fine, but when I go to enter the vehicle by unlocking and disabling the alarm portion the car shuts down. Although on the screen of the remote it still shows the car as running until I hit the brake?

I also want to add that currently the primary unlock wire is wired to the unlock motor wire listed by direct wire blue/green and the 2nd is to the power unlock yellow/purple.

You would need to add a relay to the drivers door motor wire and control the relay with the systems unlock output. Then use the systems 2nd stage unlock wire to unlock the rest using the mariners unlock switch wire.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

The system stores the cause of the last two shutdowns. Make it do it, then using the ignition and program button query the system for the cause of the shutdown. You'll know what input caused it, and can go from there.

Definitely worth a shot. I didn't think of doing that because the 2 way remote still shows the vehicle as running when it's actually already off from unlocking the doors.

Is there a difference between the two wires in that one needs a relay and the other doesn't? Also anyone familiar with the direct wire wiring know if the unlock motor listed is the drivers motor in which case I could connect the relay at the sjb?

The one you would relay is the actual motor wire and the other one is the switch wire that controls the factory relay.

Power Unlock      yellow/purple      -      driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 4

Unlock Motor      blue/green      5 wire      driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 28

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

OK sounds good I'll give that a try. Thanks

How would I wire this relay?

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram3.html

Obviously just use one relay

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

The unlock motor wire is a high current wire and shouldn't just be tapped into with the unlock wire from the viper (which is low current) It may not be your issue but thought it was worth mentioning

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

pin 30 motor side of unlock wire and pin 87a unlock wire to switch. Can I just snip the wire at the sjb and 30 towards the door and 87a towards the sjb? or does this physically need to be in the door?

Is the -200ma output enough to trigger the hatch release on a 2010 Mercury Mariner?

Also does anyone know off hand does the brown liftgate release take a negative or positive pulse?

Trunk/Hatch Release brown (liftgate), brn/yel (glass) (rear handle sw) - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pins 7 and 20

Not the switch wire . The motor wire two separate circuits. You should be able to do it at the sjb test the wire to confirm it's the correct one. Then cut the wire and add the relay. I would test the wire after you cut it just to verify.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

As for 200ma being enough I would assume so but use your meter and test to be sure

The wiring your posted answers your other question.

Not trying to be a dick but with these questions should you be doing this ?

I'm all for learning just want to make sure you can properly test and confirm wiring before connecting anything

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

OK thanks for all your help today

The only remaining issue now is I can still not get the priority locks to work. Currently I have it hooked to a relay as follows

87-12v
85-12v
86- (-) unlock output from alarm

For 30 and 87a I snipped the unlock motor wire blue/green at the bcm plug the side leading into the bcm is connected to 87a and the side leading towards the door is connected to 30.

Any help is appreciated. The second portion of the priority locks works fine, just the drivers door is having the issue.

Any ideas? I've checked the 12v leads there giving power into the relay. The blue/green wire when not attached to relay stops the driver door unlock so I know it's the correct wire.

When you say it doesn't work what happens when you try to unlock the doors ? I don't have the manual for that system do you need to program second stage unlock ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Nothing happens alarm disarms and that's all. I also just went ahead and tested the unlock output of trigger from the the brain and it drops from 12 to 7 so I'm guessing that's all a - 200ma output drops.

How are you testing the wire ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

All the wires I tested with a dmm. As far as the alarm trigger I connected the red lead to 12v and black to the unlock output of alarm. Had constant 12v when I hit unlock on remote went to 7ish and back up to 12v.

From that test sounds like the unlock output isn't working correctly.   With the red on 12v and the black on the suspect wire you shouldn't have any voltage until you press unlock on the remote then it should pulse 12 then go back to 0v.

With the unlock wire disconnected from your relay if you take a fused jumper wire and touch pin 86 on your relay to ground does the drivers door unlock ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I removed the alarm unlock trigger from the relay and hit the post with 12v and nothing happens. The relay doesn't even click. I switched relays and reconnected everything to try the same test. Still nothing.

Not 12v trigger it using ground

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ground activates the door lock as it should. Where should I go from here?

Test the output of the alarm system. It should go to ground

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

That still shows the same as yesterday has 12v, I hit unlock it drops to 7v then bounces back up to 12v

From the readings you stated I would say the output isn't working correctly. Did you buy the unit new ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Well it was one of their manufacturer refurbished units, but I think it still came with a warrantee I'll just have to go back to who I bought it from since dei doesn't deal with the consumers. Since I've been learning new things as I go. How does the negative trigger work? Is it just not dropping to ground far enough to trigger the relay?

I just went over the manual for that system and I'm assuming your using H2/1light blue second unlock wire for all the doors except the drivers door and your using the blue unlock wire for the drivers door. If this is the case I would put a blocking diode to prevent the positive pulse on the unlock wire. That system has flip flip locks

Something like a 1N4007 diode with the band facing the alarm system

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Went to two near by Radioshacks and they didn't carry the 4007 diode so I'll have to try our local electronic store tomorrow.

I should've said any of the 1N400x series will work

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

They had a 1n4005, but when reading through the forums I always see people using the 4007. If there isn't a difference I may go grab that 4005 and give that a try tonight.

OK I got the 1n4007 diode and have it wired with the silver band towards the alarm. It still reads 11.8v and drops down to about 6.8v on unlock.

Would the wire were testing be the same wire you had hooked to the unlock motor wire previously ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Yes it is. Is the diode not working in that I still get near 12v on it?

I would venture a guess that you burnt the output to that unlock wire when you connected it to the motor wire. I would see if you can get another brain

The diode it there to block the positive pulse from the system. So with a new brain you would still Need it

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

OK I was beginning to think that was the case. I am able to get another box. I will post the outcome once I receive it and connect. Thanks for all of your help.

Your welcome good luck. You verified your relay is connected correctly by ground the pin and it worked. I would put a diode on the lock wire as well

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

One other thing while I wait on the new box. The headlights also come on with remote start. Is there anyway to only have parking lights? I have the drl always off and the headlights still manage to come on.

What wire are you using for parking lights ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ah I think I may have found it. I grabbed it at the blue/gray -. If I grab it at the PURPLE / White positive, will that take care of it?

As far as I can remember it should. Haven't done an escape on a while. I use positive lights on all fords anyway. Don't forget to change the jumper in the remote start unit

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

OK sounds good. Thanks

No problem good luck

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Finally got the brain back today. All works as it should. One last thing how do I get into programming to turn of door error Chirp?

Got it. All is good. Thanks for all the help.