I have a 2007 Mercury Milan with a CS600 installed in it. I want to replace it with an Avital 4103lx. Is works fine but the range is terrible and its slow. The security bypass that is installed is an Idatalink ADS-TB (16). The bypass is connected with the r232 cable. How do I interface it with the avital unit and is there any reprograming I need to do?
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the slacker
Personally, I don't believe the Avital 4103 will provide better range. The Avital 4103 remotes do work differently and will provide
quicker command responses due to the Compustar's 1/2 second and 2.5 second button press requirements. The Avital also
has some extra features that the Compustar doesn't.
If the CS600 is connected via the D2D harness to the iDatalink ADS TB bypass module, it is using the native iDatalink
communications protocol. The CS600 is only one-way data compatible with the bypass module, which is fine for a
transponder bypass only install. Unfortunately, the Avital 4103 can only use the DBI D2D communication protocol and
will not be able to work in D2D mode with the ADS TB with the currently loaded firmware.
This is where it gets tricky. You can't just delete the D2D harness and hardwire the necessary W2W connections between the
ADS TB and the Avital 4103. During the original install, the ADS TB was set to Installation Mode = Data Mode to support D2D
communications. The only way to change over to W2W mode is to do a Factory Reset on the ADS TB and set the Installation
Mode = Standard. This will also erase the transponder bypass to vehicle programming. At this point you would have to re-
program the bypass module to the Milan but...
1. You will need two working, unique keys for the Milan to program the module to the car.
2. You really should have the information on the firmware that is flashed on the ADS TB bypass module. This would include
the Install Guide number. While it is probably some type of ADS TB FM firmware, there have been many variations and versions
over the years ( since 2007 ). It could be the ADS TB KO firmware and it is possible that the original installer used the KLON
process if you only have / supplied one working key during install.
All of this would be very risky. If you like to take chances and you have two working original factory Ford keys, here is the
process : Use this ADS TB FM2 install guide as a reference :
https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-FM2/ADS-TB-FM2-EN_20130604.pdf
1. Leave the ADS TB connections to the vehicle alone.
2. If you don't have the ADS TB 4 Pin W2W harness, cut the D2D harness so you can make the three connections to the Avital.
The wires in the D2D harness are thin and might not be the same colors listed, go by pin location.
a. Red to Avital thick Red for +12V power
b. Black to Avital Black Chassis Ground
c. Blue/White to Avital Dark Blue (-) Status Output
d. Pink ( on 9 Pin connector ) to Avital thick Pink Ignition Output ( if it isn't directly connected to the Milan )
3. Perform the Factory Reset Procedure. Bottom of Page 15
4. Set the Installation Mode to Standard ( two blinks ) and lock it in. Top of Page 12
5. Follow the vehicle programming using two keys shown on Page 13.
An authorized iDatalink Dealer would have the necessary tools ( ADS USB cable ) to re-program the ADS TB module to the
DBI TB FM2 firmware to allow a D2D connection between the modules and the correct D2D harness necessary for this install.
It could also be done in the W2W mode. If you only have one working key, the KLON process could be used to program the
module to the Milan and finish the install.
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Soldering is fun!
Thanks for the information. Would it be better to replace the idata link bypass? I have a pkall xpresskit that I never used. It has the d2d wires that plug into the avital unit. But I have heard the the pkalls can be tricky to get working properly.
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the slacker
It's usually the timing between keys that is tricky on Fords. Think I would try the ADS TB reset and re-program first. If that
doesn't work, then go with the PKALL. Think the PKALL only gets power and ground thru the D2D harness, the GWR signal
and the Ignition input is hardwired either way. Just make sure you have the two factory keys before making any changes.
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Soldering is fun!
I have a hardwire harness if you need it so you can use your TB with anything out there.; PM ME if you want it