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directed 4103 remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135925
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 12:15 PM


Topic: directed 4103 remote start

Posted By: pregunta
Subject: directed 4103 remote start
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 6:56 AM

I am installing a Directed 4103 Remote Start on my Wife's 2009 Santa Fe. I am having trouble getting it to turn on.

I created a sub-harness so I could disconnect the install and plug the main wires back together which works perfectly for the OEM side But when I plug the unit in the relays won't click and none of the accessories come on.

I thought it was DOA but I gave the WHITE/ Blue Wire a negative trigger and the accessories came on then went off like the car was trying to start.

This is what I have connected.

Main Harness H1
H1/1: (-)Factory alarm disarm - N/A
H1/2: (-)Factory rearm - N/A
H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - N/A
H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A
H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - Not connected yet
H1/6: (-)Horn Output - Not connected yet
H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - Not connected yet
H1/8: Ground - ground on kick panel
H1/9: (+/-) Light Flash - Not connected yet

4-pin satellite harness
1: (-)Status Output - N/A
2: (-) Accessory Output - N/A
3: (-) Starter Output - N/A
4: (-) Ignition Output - N/A

Heavy gauge relay wiring
1: (-) Output to Ignition Circuit - to ignition wire (Key Side)
2: (-) Output to Starter Circuit - to starter wire (Key Side)
3: (-) Output to Accessory Circuit - to accessory wire (Key Side)
4: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to 12v common (Harness Side)
5: (-) Programmable output for accessory or ignition - To Accessory 2 (Key Side
6: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to 12v common (Harness Side)

Door lock harness
1: (-) Unlock output - to XK09 - N/A
2: N/A
3: (-) Unlock output - to XK09 - N/A

Remote start harness (H2)
H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input - Grouned to kickpanel
H2/2: Tachometer wire - Not Connected Yet
H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown - Not Connected yet
H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - Not Connected yet
H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - Not Connected yet

Any input would be appreciated
Thank you in advance..



Replies:

Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 7:24 AM
On your heavy gauge harness what is meant by key side and harness side ?   Does the system respond to the lock/unlock commands ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 7:53 AM

It does respond to door lock commands. Both from the remote and the door buttons.

When I say Key side or Harness side, I am referring to the sides the wires are attached to.

Key side are the wires attached to the ignition cylinder. Harness side are the wires going back to 12v source.

Forgot to mention, I don't have a bypass. I was told the US versions of this car don't have immobilizers.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 8:00 AM
So you cut the factory wires and made a harness that goes in between ? All the remote start wires should go toward the truck side not key side. There shouldn't be immobilizer.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 8:08 AM
Wait.?? All of the wires should be going to the truck side? If I did that how would the car know when I was turning the key if none of the wires on the key cylinder were attached.

Should I have been tapping into the heavy gauge wires not cutting them?





Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 8:20 AM
Normally the ingition wires just get tapped into not cut. Take a look at the pictorial section. There's some pictures that show the ingition harness connections.

The 4103 doesn't have built in starter kill. The starter wire would be the only wire you cut if you wanted starter kill or anti-grind. You would need to add a relay for that option.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 8:29 AM
Sorry, to ask you this but I am getting lost in the array of links. Can you point me in the right direction -> Pictorial Section

And thank you for your help. I'll let you know how it turns out.




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 8:32 AM
Found it. Thank you




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 9:12 PM
looking for a negative trigger to activate the remote start. Any ideas?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 9:15 PM
You can use the activation input off the lock motor wire. Use a relay to change polarity.

Did you get the rest working ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 9:41 PM
Yeah. I always over think things. I was thinking the unit was an interupt. It is more like a piggy back. Thank you for putting me back on track. The last one of these I did was about 10 years ago.

I did on on a 95 integer and a 2000 grand am. Just used the door triggers to activate the remote start so the OEM remotes could be used. Bbut the polarity is different on this car.   I will try reversing the polarity with a relay.

Thank you again.




Posted By: itsyuk
Date Posted: January 26, 2014 at 11:08 PM
make sure the hood isnt open... LOL

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: February 03, 2014 at 10:19 AM
Let me start by saying, "I hate the BCM in this car". I like to Use the OEM key fob to keep things neat and clean. Using the horn ground signal (don't ask) and three pulses the car started perfectly. I found out the hard way that once the car is started the BCM shuts down all usage of the OEM key fob. "In my day, Cars didn't think for you" -Grumpy Old Man

So I went in and wired the remote start to use the aftermarket Key fob. Using the wiring in the drivers side kick and hazard relay control at the BCM.

All works fine now. Thank you for the help and the wiring diagrams were invaluable. I bought a FSM for this car. If anyone needs print outs, let me know.






Posted By: ggora
Date Posted: February 03, 2014 at 12:58 PM
Pregunta,

Maybe you can help answer a question I posted yesterday. I just installed the 4103 in a 2001 Dodge Ram. I have found if I leave the doors unlocked (and closed), then start the truck remotely the doors do not lock.

The lock/unlock on the remote works fine otherwise. Just wondering if the unit is supposed to lock the doors on remote start. I know my 5901 does in my other car.

Thanks




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: February 03, 2014 at 3:20 PM
I don't think they do. But you could use another output to trigger them. I will check the manual tonight when I get home.   




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: February 03, 2014 at 3:39 PM
I usually use the negative start output (purple in the small 4 wire harness) use a diode to prevent feedback.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pregunta
Date Posted: February 03, 2014 at 9:50 PM
chev104275 wrote:

I usually use the negative start output (purple in the small 4 wire harness) use a diode to prevent feedback.


Could he split/diode and use the light GREEN/ black factory disarm also? I pulses negative once the remote start is activated. The install guide I found doesn't cover the satellite harness.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: February 04, 2014 at 4:04 AM
He would have to check you believe you can set the disarm wire to pulse on remote start only. So yes that could be an option. But If his truck has a factory alarm then you would also need it to pulse on the unlock command which wouldn't be what you want.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe





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