Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 5706v multiple wires, same functions?

So I'm getting ready to purchase and install a Viper 5706v in a 1996 Toyota Tacoma and had a couple questions. I've installed probably half a dozen alarms with various aux functions but this is my first remote start. From what I've read, studied, etc. over the past few weeks I think I have a pretty good understanding of how the system will install.

My first question is are the IGN1, IGN2/flex, and starter wires from the 24 pin harness necessary if I only have one each IGN1, IGN2, and starter wire on the vehicle? Can I disregard these and just use the wires from the 10 pin harness since I only have one of each type?

My guess is that they're just redundant in case someone needed to use them but for most installations, they won't be necessary as the onboard relays cover most vehicles (like mine).

Secondly, is there any harm in supplying the fused 30 amp circuit for the IGN1, IGN2, and starter from an independent dedicated cable to the battery? I know I could run it off the existing constant wiring under the dash but would feel more comfortable supplying a separate circuit for it. Which way is preferred?

Finally, I found the quick reference sheet by searching this forum. Does anyone have the regular installation manual? I've been comparing the 5704v and 5706v and the only difference I see is the way they numbered the connectors (although the wire colors/functions appear the same).

Thanks for any help!

Rick

The Ignition 1, Ignition 2 from the 24 pin harness are used to drive relays for those wires. You shouldn't need them in your Tacoma.

The heavy gauge harness will fill your needs.

The 5704 is a good guide for you. I can see that the wiring numbers have been renumbered on the 5706, but functions remain the same.

Running a line to the battery should be no problem. make sure to protect it from getting cut/chaffed over time.

Heavy Gauge harness:
Pins 2,RED / Black. 5,Red. and 9, RED / White to 12 volt source.
Pin 10, Pink to Ignition 1
Pin 4, Pink/White to Ignition 2
Pin 8, Orange to Accessory
Pin 6, Green to Key Side of cut Starter Wire, Pin 7, Violet to Starter Side of Cut Starter wire. OR..Pin 7, Violet to UNCUT starter Wire.

As always use a DMM to test and Verify wires before making connections

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X2 with Smokeman, those NEG wires are for those (few) vehicles with 2 start and 2 ignition wires.
Don't think I've ever used more than 10 of those wires and that includes window up-down control.
They changed the wiring set up a few months ago.
Looking at wire side, 1 was top left, 2 bottom left, 3 top 2nd. left, 4 bottom 2nd. left etc. Now it's 1-12 across the top, left to right wireside and 13-24 bottom, Violet/white was 23, now 12.
The physical positions, wire colours and functions are the same.

As far as I can tell the only differences between 04 and 06 are remotes, antenna and antenna lead.
I believe that they aren't interchangeable.

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Which bypass are you using for this truck? I just did a 2010 with the DBALL2 and had a couple issues. I have some advice if you're using this module.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Fre. surely a 96 US market doesn't need a bypass?
They only introduced them to Europe (statutory EEC requirement, thank you Germany) in Jan 1st. 1997.

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harryharris wrote:

Fre. surely a 96 US market doesn't need a bypass?
They only introduced them to Europe (statutory EEC requirement, thank you Germany) in Jan 1st. 1997.

Crap, I thought I saw 2006, sorry about that! I'm about to do a writeup on it though. Please disregard!

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Peter, we're 1 all now aren't we? posted_image

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The remotes, antenna, and antenna harness are NOT interchangeable with one model to the other. However, I did take a complete new style antenna, harness, and remote to an older 24 pin model and it did work.

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smokeman1 wrote:

The Ignition 1, Ignition 2 from the 24 pin harness are used to drive relays for those wires. You shouldn't need them in your Tacoma.

The heavy gauge harness will fill your needs.

The 5704 is a good guide for you. I can see that the wiring numbers have been renumbered on the 5706, but functions remain the same.

Running a line to the battery should be no problem. make sure to protect it from getting cut/chaffed over time.

Heavy Gauge harness:
Pins 2,RED / Black. 5,Red. and 9, RED / White to 12 volt source.
Pin 10, Pink to Ignition 1
Pin 4, Pink/White to Ignition 2
Pin 8, Orange to Accessory
Pin 6, Green to Key Side of cut Starter Wire, Pin 7, Violet to Starter Side of Cut Starter wire. OR..Pin 7, Violet to UNCUT starter Wire.

As always use a DMM to test and Verify wires before making connections

Thanks, I appreciate your reply. With an alarm with so many aux functions on such a simple pickup, I'm planning to remove quite a few wires from the harness (I prefer to remove than cut, just in case I want them back later). Just wanted to confirm my suspicions on these 3.

As far as the separate line to the battery, I'm planning to route through an existing grommet that has plenty of space and fuse the line at the battery. No fires for me, thank you.

The only other wire I was curious about is the parking light isolation wire. I know I won't need it but is this for European cars with separate parking light circuits? Can someone explain how it functions compared to/along with the regular parking light wire?

Ok, and one more question. Does the onboard starter relay include anti-grind functionality as is or do I need to add my own anti-grind relay?

1) Enjoy depinning from the 24 pin plug! NOT. Tried it once, such a PITA I now cut the unused to 4" (10cm) and cover them.
2) No idea about that wire NOT used on Euro cars, use 2 x 1N5404 generally on them off the white.

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Yes to your last question.

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Sorry, thought of another question as I was going over my wiring.

Is the alarm's neutral safety switch wire required for an automatic transmission or does the vehicles normal wiring (that would prevent a start if in gear) suffice? I've seen a few write ups here for other vehicles in which people said that was not used and that the wire was only used on manual transmission vehicles. Or is it just a matter of preference?

It is. Just connect it to ground.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks so much for all your help. Sounds like this should be pretty straight forward.

To the best of my memory short of testing every electrical connector to a manual gearbox only Nissan and Subaru have an NSS aka transmission position switch and even then I'd test it before setting up the vehicle as an auto.

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The vehicle is an automatic. I was just curious if that wire needed to be connected to the neutral safety since most automatics won't start unless in P or N anyway. Seems kind of redundant, but I can totally see the need in a manual transmission. Sounds like in my application, I should just ground it.

Yea, the wire has to be connected to ground for the remote start to work. For manual transmissions, this is usually hooked to the handbrake.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I'd just like to say thank you thus far for the continuing help...and ask a couple more questions:

On my truck I have aftermarket actuators currently operated by a single DEI 451M. I'd like to use the AUX 4 output of my new 5706 to provide a second unlock pulse for the passenger door (like the newer OEM alarms).

To make that happen, I think I need to separate the actuators and run each off its own 451M. Then do I connect the lock signal wires (small gauge to 3 pin connector) together and separate the unlock signal wires so the driver is controlled normally and the passenger from the aux 4 output?

Secondly, does the onboard starter relay also serve as a starter kill relay or do I need to add that externally? I see the GWA wire on the main harness and wonder if I need it. I currently have an old alarm and a 30/40A relay the previous owner inserted near the ignition switch. I'm thinking I can just eliminate it when I install the 5706.

harryharris wrote:

1) Enjoy depinning from the 24 pin plug! NOT. Tried it once, such a PITA I now cut the unused to 4" (10cm) and cover them.

FWIW, I didn't think it was too bad. Each socket in the connector has a single, small retention tab on the top. I just gently depressed the tab with a tiny screwdriver (a pick or tip of a drywall screw would also work) then gently pulled the wire/socket from the rear of the plug. Really cleaned it up and no worries about inadvertent shorts. They only took a few seconds each.

Perhaps someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can use the 2nd unlock wire (lt. blue) and isolate the driver's actuator from the other 3 lock actuators. The feature needs to be turned on for this to work.

Your lock relay would lock all the doors.

Your first unlock relay would only connect to the driver's door.

Your second unlock relay would connect to the remaining doors.

If you decide later that you want to turn this off, you would have to rewire the relays.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

When you say the "light blue" wire, do you mean the small gauge one that goes to the 3 pin connector? Or is there another?

No, this should be the one on the 24-pin connector.

It's labeled "2nd Unlock Output (-)"

Your driver's unlock will go on the blue wire on the 3 pin connector.

Sorry it's kind of confusing lol.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

OK, playing catch-up because you're spraying out multiple questions before we've had a chance to answer you, here goes.
Starter cut.
Use H3
Cut starter wire.
Green to key side violet (purple) to motor side.
Join pink to ignition which stays live on cranking.
You must do this any way otherwise alarm will operate/trigger whilst you're driving.

2nd unlock. Join both sets of purple and PURPLE / black to a 12V+ constant, e.g.fusebox feed.

BROWN / black and WHITE/ black to ground.
Blue/black to driver door actuator only.
GREEN/ black to both actuators.
That's your first 451.
2nd. 451
Join the thin red to red above don't join green (not connected) on second 451.
RED / white* (assuming no trunk release) to thin blue on 2nd.451.
Blue/black to passenger door actuator.
BROWN / black to ground.
GREEN/ black, WHITE/ black not connected.
The second unlock feature (light blue) was unavailable on 5X04/6 models.
*You can use aux 1, 2 or 4 to join to the thin blue on 2nd. 451 but it's a waste of time, it means pressing "f" plus aux or "f" X 2 plus aux or "f" X4 plus aux.
Do it joined to the RED / white and you only have to press aux for 2 seconds to do the second unlock.
Ref. freqsounds is your other name true?

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harryharris wrote:

OK, playing catch-up because you're spraying out multiple questions before we've had a chance to answer you, here goes.
Starter cut.
Use H3
Cut starter wire.
Green to key side violet (purple) to motor side.
Join pink to ignition which stays live on cranking.
You must do this any way otherwise alarm will operate/trigger whilst you're driving.

Ok, so just to confirm I don't need an external starter cut relay...that functionality is included in the onboard starter/accessory relay?

harryharris wrote:

*You can use aux 1, 2 or 4 to join to the thin blue on 2nd. 451 but it's a waste of time, it means pressing "f" plus aux or "f" X 2 plus aux or "f" X4 plus aux.
Do it joined to the RED / white and you only have to press aux for 2 seconds to do the second unlock.

Actually, the 5706v has the option of "linking" an AUX output through programming (any of the 5 aux outputs...very cool) to use as a second unlock so there's no "f x 4 + AUX" required (which, agreed, would be a pain). I connected it on the bench and pressing the normal unlock button a second time activates the designated AUX channel output momentarily. My question was more how to wire up two separate 451Ms so they lock at the same time but unlock separately. I think I've found my answer. Thanks.

Comment 1 yes.
Comment 2 I haven't played with one yet, I'll be installing a 5906 in my own car next week but as you've already discovered the answer, I stand corrected.
Just follow my last post substituting an AUX for the RED / white.

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Well, I installed everything over a week ago and it's been working great since. Very satisfying to hear the truck start up on the very first RS button press. I soldered all connections with the exception of 3 T-taps where soldering wasn't practical, put all wiring in split loom tubing, and wrapped the tubing with 3M Super 33+ (probably an entire roll). Took most of one day and half of the next but everything is neat, clean, functional, and difficult to locate/defeat.

I'm sure most of you pros use a bitwriter for programming. For those of us DIYers who don't, a suggestion: run the siren wires but save the connections for last. I connected a very small piezo buzzer (3-28v) in place of the siren and used that to test and program. It's loud enough to hear to test and program but not so loud as to annoy the neighbors.

Thanks to everyone who answered my questions as I planned this out. It all came together without a hitch.