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2008 f150 +12v constant location dilemma

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136175
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 3:59 PM


Topic: 2008 f150 +12v constant location dilemma

Posted By: firebirdude
Subject: 2008 f150 +12v constant location dilemma
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 11:44 AM

2008 Ford F150. Avital one button remote start (4111 I think?). Think I can use the lightGREEN/ purple +12V constant wire at the ignition switch? Or must I run a heavy gauge wire to the passenger side and tap into the 1/2" long heavy gauge +12V wire behind the fuse box? Directechs puts the lightGREEN/ purple wire at 20A, so it's not exactly a thin wire either. But the wire behind the glove box is a royal PITA to get to, only further complicated by trying to tap a 10g wire into it.



Replies:

Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 12:31 PM
Yeah, I usually use the +12V at the ignition switch. My logic is that the vehicle uses these wires to power itself with this wire, why can't a remote start?

If I'm not mistaken, the remote start comes with 30A fuses. It may be wise to replace them with 20A to match the circuit's rating.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)




Posted By: auto enhancers
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 12:56 PM
But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.




Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 4:06 PM
I use wire at ignition switch and positive Parkin lights no issues at all




Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 4:09 PM
auto enhancers wrote:

But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.


+1 on this.

The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :)

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)




Posted By: yellow_cake
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 4:56 PM
Lol, I faced the same dilemma. I used the one in the ignition, no problems so far. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=135629




Posted By: auto enhancers
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 5:25 PM
freqsounds wrote:

auto enhancers wrote:

But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.


+1 on this.

The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :)


Negative trigger with a relay to isolate. Do not just run negative to the switch as you will burn up the switch. Follow directed tech doc for proper interfacing.




Posted By: firebirdude
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 7:00 PM
yellow_cake wrote:

Lol, I faced the same dilemma. I used the one in the ignition, no problems so far. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=135629
Using positive parking lights too?




Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 8:17 PM
I have done a number of fords and always grab at the ignition switch and no issues even with positive parking lights




Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 8:25 PM
auto enhancers wrote:

freqsounds wrote:

auto enhancers wrote:

But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.


+1 on this.

The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :)


Negative trigger with a relay to isolate. Do not just run negative to the switch as you will burn up the switch. Follow directed tech doc for proper interfacing.


Do you have a link to the techdoc? I have never heard of this -- I thought this was the purpose of having a 10A fuse on this wire. How would using a relay prevent the switch from burning up??

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 9:43 PM
power at the ignition is fine

isolating the switch with the relay would prevent damage to the switch, however this vehicle uses positive lights which isn't very high current to begin with. wont be any problems.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 10:09 PM
The relay isn't there to protect the switch. The relay is there to allow for proper interface of the light switch wiring to the SJB. The SJB reads the position of the switch to determine which operation is desired. The switch has three (or four) positions, each of which applies a ground to the SJB. If a ground is applied to the SJB in the 'OFF' position, the ground needs to be removed from that wire in order for a different mode to be desired whether it is 'AUTO','PARK',or 'HEAD'. That is the purpose of the relay, isolating the ground input/common to the switch.




Posted By: yellow_cake
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 2:27 PM
firebirdude wrote:

yellow_cake wrote:

Lol, I faced the same dilemma. I used the one in the ignition, no problems so far. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=135629
Using positive parking lights too?

Yes, I used the + parking lights as well. No issues. I wasn't comfortable about it before the install but when I saw how thin the parking lights + wire was, it seemed to be of a very low current.





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