disarm viper 5904 by wire/signal

Hey guys,

I'm installing a Viper 5904 with a DBALL2 in a 2006 Grand Caravan with a BOYO A-PASS TOUCH Keyless Door Lock.

The BOYO A-PASS TOUCH Keyless Door Lock has 4 wires that interface with a security system:

- (-)Unlock
- (-)Lock
- (-)Arm
- (-)Disarm

My question is, how can I use these outputs to disarm the Viper? I have tried using the Viper's lock/unlock wires, and the Viper's OEM arm/disarm wires. It seems that the Viper only does output for these.

If the Viper is unable to support this, can the DBALL?


I know I can make this thing unlock the doors through the factory wiring, but the Viper will remain armed. As soon as the door opens, the van will wake the dead.


Any way around this? :) Thanks for the help!


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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Take a 1 way remote, strip out and relay across the disarm button from your touch system, you could also arm the Viper that way. The only problem will be in a couple of years when the remote's battery runs out.
Don't laugh, that's all I could come up with.

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Test before boxing up.

you can find a voltage converter to keep power on the stripped down keypad without a battery installed. usually it will be a single 3v watch battery or a 1.5 volt AAA battery. also you should measure the resistance of the little pads on the back of the buttons and buy resistors to match the value of the pads, i dont think you can just jump across the terminals and make the keypad work.

Good points but meter the switches and let us know.

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Test before boxing up.

Is there no other way to do this out of the box? The customer wants to keep both remotes.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Reaching a bit but obtain a circuit diagram for the brain and trace the signal path from RF section to RS main section, good luck there.

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Use an Omron G6 series 12 volt 10amps latching relay with twin coils, to cut and restore the ground to the Viper.
It may just work.

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Test before boxing up.

harryharris wrote:

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Use an Omron G6 series 12 volt 10amps latching relay with twin coils, to cut and restore the ground to the Viper.
It may just work.

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dont cut just the ground of the alarm, ungrounded alarms act funny and it could damage the brain in the long term and could also back feed into a part of the car that you dont want.

another way to do this would be to interface with the doorpin, ignition input and the valet switch at the same time. to disarm the valet needs to see the door as being open, needs to see 12v on the ignition input, and use a relay to jump the wires of the valet button.

im not sure if you can use a single trigger to do all three at the same time or if the valet needs to see it happen one step at a time in which case you would need some timer circuits. and a side effect of doing this would be that the alarm will try to go off while this is happening so you will want another timed circuit to interrupt the siren for however long it takes to disarm.

if disarming an alarm were easy then everybody would be getting their cars stolen.

Yes I thought of that but if you cut the main ground.
Screw that I've one here I could test bench to try it out.

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I just tried it with control centre and mini buzzer instead of the siren, ground and H1/1 connected, not the H3 or the door triggers.
It works if you connect the siren ground wire to H1/2 and break both.
Not sure how the H/3 wires will affect it, it might try and ground through the ignition 1&2, starter and ACC wires.

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Test before boxing up.

If you've already installed it, try removing the ground wire then reconnecting.

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Test before boxing up.

harryharris wrote:

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Yes I thought of that but if you cut the main ground.
Screw that I've one here I could test bench to try it out.

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you can bench test all you want, the reason alarms act funny when they have power but no ground is because it is installed into a car and connected to other grounded circuits inside of the car. so what happens when you cut the main ground is that the alarm tried to ground itself through other circuits that its connected to. in this case bench testing your theory is not the same as doing it on a fully installed alarm.

We've crossed posts, read it. I agree with you, look at my last line.

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Test before boxing up.

I think we're back to a DC-DC convertor and a spare remote.

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Test before boxing up.

yea i just read id. we've been playing post tag...

but yea, i know that is what will happen. it may work but it is not good for the alarm or car. ive seen all kinds of strange things happen when you have a bad or broken ground on alarms. ive seen them hold ground on the lock outputs and fry the lock solenoids before as an example of a worst case scenario.

True that's why I thought better of it, your idea works for me, complete control.

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Test before boxing up.