06 jeep liberty, remote start

Hi All,

Have a question - my daughter has an 06 Jeep Liberty (with OEM alarm and keyless entry) and recently lost one of her keys. The dealer wants $225.00 for a new key and associated programming.

I was thinking of putting a remote start system in the vehicle (the Viper 5204v and idatalink bypass I put in my 03 GMC Sierra was less than $225.00), and using her “one” functional key in the bypass module (I believe that’s required for "keysense" type vehicles like the 06 Liberty’s) and then just having two regular keys made that would be used with the R/S key fobs.

Does anyone see any issues with this scenario and as important – can anyone recommend a good R/S & Alarm system for the Jeep Liberty.

Thanks in advance

-Rick


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RoadGlide2459

idata alca shouldnt require  a key , park lights i believ will need a resistor maybe i am mistaken   done a pile of em, a couple years back though i am not formilar with viper products go to i dat awebsite and enter year make model , and down load install guide   it should be self explainitory

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Thanks Autotamer,

You're right - the idatalink does not require a permanent key (I just checked), although their programming instructions are not the best.

You wouldn't happen to have a R/S system you could recommend for this vehicle. I certainly want the door locks to function as well as the rear window release so you could open the tailgate.

My thought is to buy 2 conventional keys (i.e. no transponder chips)and have them cut appropriately and then use with the R/S - Entry key fobs.

Thanks for the reply.

-Rick

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RoadGlide2459

I have no experiance with viper ,clifford,avital, python,scytek  so I  can speak of there qaultiy there are a ton of people who give the thumbs up to  all of them , i have installed  astrostarts ,compustars , omega excalibur ,. autostart ,audiovox , I personally love the astro start units for ease of programming and out of the hundreds of units ive installed 1 was found defective or at least the ground harness was defective anyway there are more affordable options , and im certain others will disagre here , that being said i have not installed enough of the other units to be comfortable with them .   for the record does your liberty have factory sentrykey with built in keyless transmitter  ? A grey oval key or ,black oval key ?  

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i would use a Compustar Pro 1Way-G7 + idatalink blade. Only downside is you need an authorized dealer to program the blade for you, or buy an idata ads-alca and have that preflashed.

Install would take shy of 2.5h

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

OK, you've got a few different ways to handle this.

First, if you install a bypass module and remote starter in the regular, usual way, it will allow the remote starter to start the engine, but will NOT allow a non-chip hardware-store key to start the engine. Otherwise, anyone would be able to steal the car with a screwdriver and some know-how.

The above information applies regardless of whether it's a key-in-box style bypass, or a no-key-required kind.

That being said, you have a few options here that can keep your cost down somewhat, especially depending on how concerned you are about keeping the car secure.

1: Install a remote starter, and ALWAYS use the remote starter, every time you drive. You can make some $2 keys at Wal Mart or wherever. You only need the expensive chipped key during starting with the key.......you can remote-start and then take over and drive away with the non-chipped key.

Downside to this is that the aftermarket remote control is not a military-grade product. It'll work most of the time. And then eventually the remote's battery will die, or you'll get it wet at the beach or something.....and now you're stuck at the beach, waiting for a tow truck. Not good.

2: You could, as in #1 above, make some non-chipped keys, perform a remote starter installation.......but have the car's keysense wire also turn on the bypass module under the dash. Now, when you insert the key, the bypass module turns on, and then the car can start with the key. This is not hard to do.

However, you'll be basically permanently disabling your car's anti theft system. There are legal issues to this, as well as maybe some repercussions from your insurance company if the car is stolen and they find out what you did. So if you do that, do it at your own risk.

3: The Jeep dealer charging you $225 is because the remote-head key is very expensive. You don't need a remote-head key. You could get a regular, plain gray Chrysler Sentry Key, and install an aftermarket remote starter with its own lock/unlock buttons.

The key is still probably around $30-50 list price, plus anywhere from 1/2 hour to 1 hour dealer labor for programming. But that's still less than $225.

Also be sure to call a few locksmiths. They may have a better price, and/or many of them are mobile and come to you. Even if the price is the same, the convenience may be worth it.

4: Want to do something really super simple? Does the car only have one main driver? Do it this way:

---Install a remote starter in the usual way, with some kind of no-key-required bypass. All your daughter really needs is a 1-button because of the remote-head key she already has.....but you could do remote start/keyless if you want.

---Go down to the hardware store and make a non-chipped key. Or a two of them maybe.

---Hang one of the aftermarket remotes on the keychain with your existing good Jeep key. This is what your daughter will use for everyday driving.

---Put a non-chipped key in your daughter's handbag, in case she locks her keys inside the car at the gas station. This key won't start the engine, but it will get her into the car, at least.

---Put your second remote-starter remote with another non-chipped key, and leave it in the house. This is your emergency, back-up method of driving the car.

You can remote-start the engine, use the key to unlock the door manually, insert it in the ignition and drive away.

Daughter is late for work and can't find her good keys? Daughter is away on vacation, her car is blocking your car in the driveway and you have to move it? Et cetera and so forth.

Basically, use this remote/key setup for occasional, emergency use. Just don't go driving the car to Florida or something and get the remote wet at Disney, and you'll be fine.

Thanks Chris,

You’re right – after some more research I realized that even with a R/S system a plain “dumb” key won’t start the engine so I think what I’ll do is follow your #3 recommendation and get two basic sentry keys off the web and hopefully the dealer won’t have a problem programming one and I can program the other since I would now have two working keys.

Do you have any suggestions regarding a remote start system. The Viper 5204V and idatalink ALCA were less than 200 bucks and works great on my truck – was thinking of something similar for the Jeep, especially since I am familiar with the install process of that system in a W2W config.

Thanks again for the reply.

-Rick


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RoadGlide2459

you could install just the remote start bypass module and wire the trigger to a secret switch/push-button that you would have to press in order to start the car along with a basic unchipped key. if you use the original transponder key then you dont have to push the secret switch to start the car. for more security you could use a switch that also required a key of its own to activate the bypass module, this way a thief couldnt just find the switch and use it. and you could make as many copies as you want of either key. no actual remote start unit would be needed unless you just wanted it but you could still use this method as a fail safe incase your keypad died or breaks and it would be independent of the remote start unit.

idata programming is as easy as it gets , have it flashed d2d  (assuming the remote starter you choose  has data protocol) astromodels 711-5225 do that way there is minimal wiring front starter to by pass , plug and play for the most part ,use a blade module if doing a compustar. (nice clean install) then make connections of starter and bypass as indicated on install guide .

the  led on module will flash once for data right out of box , push the program button and hold it

it then turns solid green indiacting you have selected d2d format .

stick the key in ignition turn it to run , (not start) l ed will turn red and after a few seconds turn green ,

 turn ign to off , remove key , it is now programmed !  make sure your starter is set for automatic trans , program tach and your golden,

adjust runtime if needed.  

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Good morning Autotamer,

Agree about the idatalink, though I went W2W with my GMC truck install and changing the mode was a bit tricky – actually had to start the car rather than just turn the ign key to run after selecting W2W – they don’t mention that in the install manual.

That said – would you have a install wiring guide for an 06 liberty with factory anti-theft?

Thanks again,

-Rick


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RoadGlide2459

I would do a key in box bypass and tie into key sense wire so it will work with any key

Ok guys,

First - thanks for everyones input thus far. Think I'm going to go with the Viper 5204 and idatalink ADS-AL-CH6 in a W2W mode with the following connections.

Anyone seeing anything wrong - please let me know. Also, does anyone know where the Dome Light wire is?

Viper 5204 and idatalink ADS-DL-CH6 (flashed)

Main Harness 6 Pin
H 1/1     Red-(+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Red - 12 Volt Constant     
H 1/2     Black-(-) CHASSIS GROUND - Suitable Ground
H 1/3     Brown - (+) SIREN OUTPUT – To Siren in Engine Compartment
H 1/4     WHITE/ Brown - PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay -Not Used
H 1/5     White -PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – Pink/Red – At Steering Column
H 1/6     Orange-(-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT - Not Used

Door Harness 3 Pin
1     Blue-(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the Blue/Black Input wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector.
2     Empty
3     Green-(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black Input wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector.

H2 Harness - 24 Pin
H 2/1     Pink/White (-)200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/2     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/3     RED / White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/4     BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT - ???
H 2/5     Dark Blue (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Connect to idatalink Bypass GWR Input
H 2/6     WHITE/ Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/7     WHITE/ Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/8     ORANGE / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/9     Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) – Must be connected to Hood Pin
H 2/10     Blue (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR (N/O) – To 2nd 3 Pin (Bypass Harness) – Yellow/Red – Trunk Status (-) Output.
H 2/11     WHITE/ Blue (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - Not Used
H 2/12     Violet/White TACHOMETER INPUT – Black wire at one of the ignition coils
H 2/13     BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - Suitable ground
H 2/14     GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Idatalink Bypass (Brown Wire B10/4- DISARM ONLY INPUT) goes to H 2/14 Input (Factory Alarm Disarm Output)
H 2/15     Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - To Bypass (Yellow/Black) Door Status Output
H 2/16     BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT – GREEN/ Violet – Steering Column
H 2/17     Pink (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/18     Violet (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - Not Used
H 2/19     Violet/Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/20     Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – Must be connected to WHITE/ Tan wire At Brake Pedal
H 2/21     Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT – To Bypass Starter Input (+) B10/8 BLACK/ White
H 2/22     Grey/Black (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not Used
H 2/23     Orange (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT – 30/40 AMP SPDT relay for Pink / YELLOW Acc wire (see note 1 below)
H 2/24     GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT – Not Used

Remote Start (H 3) 10 Pin
H 3/1     Pink (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT – Pink wire at Ignition Switch Harness
H 3/2     RED / White (87) FLEX RELAY (+) 12V INPUT (30A Fused) – Red at Ignition Switch Harness (12V Constant)*
H 3/3     Orange (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT – Pink / YELLOW wire at Ignition Switch Harness
H 3/4     Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT (Car Side of Starter Kill) - Ignition Switch Harness – Lt. Blue/Red (+) Car Side (cut starter wire)
H 3/5     Green (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) - Ignition Switch Harness – Lt. Blue/Red (+) Key Side (cut starter wire)
H 3/6     Red IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) – Red wire at Ignition Switch Harness (12V Constant)*
H 3/7     Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – Not Used
H 3/8     Pink/Black (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT - Not Used
H 3/9     RED / Black ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) – RED / White wire at Ignition Switch Harness (12V constant)*
H 3/10 NC Empty

Note 1
Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for Pink/White ACC wire :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/23 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Red (+12V constant) - Red at ignition harness or battery through 30 Amp fuse*
Relay Pin 30 to ACC wire @ ignition harness (There are 2 Pink/White wires – make sure it’s the heater wire instead of the radio wire)
Relay Pin 87a not used
*12V constant (load) wires in the main ignition harness Red or run heavier gauge wire directly from battery and connect all 12Volt Constant loads

Bypass Harness 4 Pin
B 4/1     Blue/White GWR (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - H 2/9
B 4/2     Empty
B 4/3     Black GROUND - Suitable Ground
B 4/4     Red 12 v (+) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red (+) - 12 VOLT Constant

Bypass Harness 10 Pin
B 10/1     GREEN/ Black LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector
B 10/2     Blue/Black UNLOCK/DISARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector
B 10/3     RED / White TRUNK (-) INPUT – to H2/3 or Blue/Green or Lt. GREEN / WHITE. Lrg. White Plug above Drivers kick panel
B 10/4     Brown DISARM ONLY - The brown wire goes to your GREEN/ black - FASD (Factory Alarm Shutdown Disarm) wire H2/14
B 10/5     Purple / YELLOW LEFT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used
B 10/6     PURPLE / Black RIGHT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used
B 10/7     White - Not Used
B 10/8     BLACK/ White – To H 2/21 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT (For Second Start Feature)
B 10/9     Green - Not Used
B 10/10 PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT – Not Used – see H2/12

Bypass Harness 3 Pin
B 3/1     WHITE/ Black – Pin 4 @SKIM (Cut wire and connect other end to B7/7 Pink Ignition (+) Input
B 3/2     WHITE/ Red – to B7/7 Pink wire on bypass
B 3/3     White – Not Used

Bypass Harness 3 Pin (Second 3 Pin Harness)
B 3/1     Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - Viper Brain (H 2/15) Green Wire
B 3/2     Yellow/Red TRUNK STATUS (-) Output – Viper Brain (H2/10) Blue Wire
B 3/3     Yellow - Not Used

Bypass Harness 7 Pin
B 7/1     BROWN / Red – Not Used
B 7/2     BROWN / Yellow - Not Used
B 7/3     ORANGE / Black – Ground w/ OEM Alarm Only
B 7/4     ORANGE / White - Not Used
B 7/5     Orange     Data – SKIM Module – Pin 2 (top row from left)
B 7/6     Pink/Black - Not Used
B 7/7     Pink IGNITION (+) INPUT – Connects to WHITE/ Red on bypass - B3/2

 does the viper  not have a dat protocol port ? I dont get why you anyone wouldnt do d2d less wiring , = less chance of making a mistake while bench wiring  and a clean install , and a lot more reliable unit imho  

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Hey Autotamer,

It does, and no disrespect, but everything I've read both here and on other forums indicates that newer vehicles ('08 and above) work very well with D2D wiring whereas older vehicles work much better with W2W.

I went the W2W route with my 03 GMC Sierra and it works flawlessly so I just thought I'd go that route with my daughters Jeep.

Appreciate your input.

-Rick

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RoadGlide2459

must be a viper thing ? i have done easily 25 libertys d2d , 0 problems ? to each there own just more work is all , didnt  i send you a pm for connections??

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Autotamer,

Am not necessarily opposed to going D2D, and am certainly open to learning something new. I do have a few prerequisites though:

1.)      Would like to keep all functionality re: door locks, factory security system, perimeter lighting at arm / disarm.
2.)     Would like to have at least (1) Two way remote – doesn’t have to be LCD – LED would be fine.
3.)     Would like to keep the cost in the $150 – $200 range.
4.)     Would like to have clear, concise install instructions – as you probably know a lot of companies prefer their dealers do the install. Consequently their install instructions are marginal at best.

That said, am open to any suggestions you may have especially since it sounds like you are familiar with 06 Jeep Liberty installs.

Thanks for your reply.

-Rick


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RoadGlide2459

ads-alca ar blade i delieve gives you lock , unlock, arm , disarm , hatch glass, door status , trunk status, tach , signal, e brake if a manual trans.  perimitter lighting is controlled via jeeps body controller once armed , and is two way compataible if you viper has a red data port

if i could get a diagram from the unit your installing , i could in fact virtual  wire it  abd send you a-email   compustar 6200 with rfg5 2 way rf kit ande blade combo would be a fit in that range. or an  astroflex astrostart  rs 721xr  1 button would be also but only one fob with astrostart

and only one two way 4 buttton and 1 1 way 4 button with rfg5 kit  

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ill look up a diagram for theviper  5204 when i get a few more moments   

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roadglide2459 wrote:

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Ok guys,

First - thanks for everyones input thus far. Think I'm going to go with the Viper 5204 and idatalink ADS-AL-CH6 in a W2W mode with the following connections.

Anyone seeing anything wrong - please let me know. Also, does anyone know where the Dome Light wire is?

Viper 5204 and idatalink ADS-DL-CH6 (flashed)

Main Harness 6 Pin
H 1/1     Red-(+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Red - 12 Volt Constant     
H 1/2     Black-(-) CHASSIS GROUND - Suitable Ground
H 1/3     Brown - (+) SIREN OUTPUT – To Siren in Engine Compartment
H 1/4     WHITE/ Brown - PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay -Not Used
H 1/5     White -PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – Pink/Red – At Steering Column
H 1/6     Orange-(-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT - Not Used

Door Harness 3 Pin
1     Blue-(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the Blue/Black Input wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector.
2     Empty
3     Green-(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black Input wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector.

H2 Harness - 24 Pin
H 2/1     Pink/White (-)200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/2     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/3     RED / White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/4     BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT - ???
H 2/5     Dark Blue (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Connect to idatalink Bypass GWR Input
H 2/6     WHITE/ Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/7     WHITE/ Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/8     ORANGE / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/9     Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) – Must be connected to Hood Pin
H 2/10     Blue (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR (N/O) – To 2nd 3 Pin (Bypass Harness) – Yellow/Red – Trunk Status (-) Output.
H 2/11     WHITE/ Blue (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - Not Used
H 2/12     Violet/White TACHOMETER INPUT – Black wire at one of the ignition coils
H 2/13     BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - Suitable ground
H 2/14     GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Idatalink Bypass (Brown Wire B10/4- DISARM ONLY INPUT) goes to H 2/14 Input (Factory Alarm Disarm Output)
H 2/15     Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - To Bypass (Yellow/Black) Door Status Output
H 2/16     BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT – GREEN/ Violet – Steering Column
H 2/17     Pink (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/18     Violet (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - Not Used
H 2/19     Violet/Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - Not Used
H 2/20     Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – Must be connected to WHITE/ Tan wire At Brake Pedal
H 2/21     Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT – To Bypass Starter Input (+) B10/8 BLACK/ White
H 2/22     Grey/Black (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not Used
H 2/23     Orange (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT – 30/40 AMP SPDT relay for Pink / YELLOW Acc wire (see note 1 below)
H 2/24     GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT – Not Used

Remote Start (H 3) 10 Pin
H 3/1     Pink (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT – Pink wire at Ignition Switch Harness
H 3/2     RED / White (87) FLEX RELAY (+) 12V INPUT (30A Fused) – Red at Ignition Switch Harness (12V Constant)*
H 3/3     Orange (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT – Pink / YELLOW wire at Ignition Switch Harness
H 3/4     Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT (Car Side of Starter Kill) - Ignition Switch Harness – Lt. Blue/Red (+) Car Side (cut starter wire)
H 3/5     Green (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) - Ignition Switch Harness – Lt. Blue/Red (+) Key Side (cut starter wire)
H 3/6     Red IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) – Red wire at Ignition Switch Harness (12V Constant)*
H 3/7     Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – Not Used
H 3/8     Pink/Black (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT - Not Used
H 3/9     RED / Black ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) – RED / White wire at Ignition Switch Harness (12V constant)*
H 3/10 NC Empty

Note 1
Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for Pink/White ACC wire :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/23 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Red (+12V constant) - Red at ignition harness or battery through 30 Amp fuse*
Relay Pin 30 to ACC wire @ ignition harness (There are 2 Pink/White wires – make sure it’s the heater wire instead of the radio wire)
Relay Pin 87a not used
*12V constant (load) wires in the main ignition harness Red or run heavier gauge wire directly from battery and connect all 12Volt Constant loads

Bypass Harness 4 Pin
B 4/1     Blue/White GWR (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - H 2/9
B 4/2     Empty
B 4/3     Black GROUND - Suitable Ground
B 4/4     Red 12 v (+) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red (+) - 12 VOLT Constant

Bypass Harness 10 Pin
B 10/1     GREEN/ Black LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector
B 10/2     Blue/Black UNLOCK/DISARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector
B 10/3     RED / White TRUNK (-) INPUT – to H2/3 or Blue/Green or Lt. GREEN / WHITE. Lrg. White Plug above Drivers kick panel
B 10/4     Brown DISARM ONLY - The brown wire goes to your GREEN/ black - FASD (Factory Alarm Shutdown Disarm) wire H2/14
B 10/5     Purple / YELLOW LEFT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used
B 10/6     PURPLE / Black RIGHT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used
B 10/7     White - Not Used
B 10/8     BLACK/ White – To H 2/21 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT (For Second Start Feature)
B 10/9     Green - Not Used
B 10/10 PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT – Not Used – see H2/12

Bypass Harness 3 Pin
B 3/1     WHITE/ Black – Pin 4 @SKIM (Cut wire and connect other end to B7/7 Pink Ignition (+) Input
B 3/2     WHITE/ Red – to B7/7 Pink wire on bypass
B 3/3     White – Not Used

Bypass Harness 3 Pin (Second 3 Pin Harness)
B 3/1     Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - Viper Brain (H 2/15) Green Wire
B 3/2     Yellow/Red TRUNK STATUS (-) Output – Viper Brain (H2/10) Blue Wire
B 3/3     Yellow - Not Used

Bypass Harness 7 Pin
B 7/1     BROWN / Red – Not Used
B 7/2     BROWN / Yellow - Not Used
B 7/3     ORANGE / Black – Ground w/ OEM Alarm Only
B 7/4     ORANGE / White - Not Used
B 7/5     Orange     Data – SKIM Module – Pin 2 (top row from left)
B 7/6     Pink/Black - Not Used
B 7/7     Pink IGNITION (+) INPUT – Connects to WHITE/ Red on bypass - B3/2

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