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viper 5706v remote start issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136269
Printed Date: July 01, 2025 at 12:44 PM


Topic: viper 5706v remote start issue

Posted By: blackbeauty08
Subject: viper 5706v remote start issue
Date Posted: March 12, 2014 at 11:32 PM

I've tore these forums up and down and just can't seem to find a solution for my remote start. Vehicle is a 2008 F350 CC w/diesel. Cannot get the vehicle to start with the remote start button. PKALL isn't hooked up completly yet, but key is off in the ignition. When the r/s button is pressed the remote shows the vehicle "running". The radio comes on and the lights as well, but never cranks over. I do get a 3 flash code, low or no rpm. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks

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Josh



Replies:

Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 3:47 AM
First thought is tach.
Have you wired tach and programmed the unit?
Start engine, within 5 seconds hold control button,
A blue light should come on within a few seconds. Tach learnt.
Set unit for tach reading?
Menu 3 option 4
If not make sure unit is set for virtual tach.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 4:27 AM
Yup, I have tried that. Even turned the tech mode off, and voltage mode. Supposedly virtual tach isn't for diesel motors. It's weird, cause the radio comes on and stays on, and you can hear the unit clicking. Brake wire is hooked up and works also

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Josh




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 4:35 AM
Possibly a silly thought, but are all three thick H3 +12V fused power wires ( Red, RED / Black and RED / White ) connected to a good +12V constant source?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 9:36 AM
Oh come on Kregg that was the next stage! posted_image
By the way virtual tach works fine on diesels.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 11:35 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Possibly a silly thought, but are all three thick H3 +12V fused power wires ( Red, RED / Black and RED / White ) connected to a good +12V constant source?


Yes all three of the thick wires, are soldered to the blue/red constant going into the ignition switch

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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 11:42 AM
I think now is the time to show us your connections, use the excell method as described in the post at the top of this page.
One other thing use your DMM and measure the voltage between your ground point and all of your fused inputs.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:10 PM
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT----------------- +12v constant at ignition
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT-------------------------Siren +
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------------
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT------------- not used.

H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT------ Not Used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT--------------- Ground to Chassis.
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT---Not used
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------not used
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT---- not used
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)---- lt gr/purple drivers sill
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT------- is it needed??
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------ not used
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT----- pkall bl/wht (while running)
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT---WHITE/ orange at ign
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT--------------------not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT-------------------------not used
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT----violet/white above brake pedal
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)----- Hood pin wire that came with alarm
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT----tied into H3/4 starter output wire
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)---not used.
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-------------not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT-------not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT------hooked to BROWN / yellow accessory
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT----dark blue wire
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT------------not used

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT--WHITE/ Orange @(ignition switch)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)-+12v constant bl/red wire at ignition
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT---------BROWN / yellow accessory
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—--Blue/White (@ ignition switch starter side)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------Blue/White (@ ignition switch keyside)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) +12v constant blue/red at ign
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)------PURPLE / green acc2 wire
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)----not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) +12v constant blue/red at ignition
H3/10 NC No Connection----------------------------not used

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT----------connected (works)
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT-----------connected (works)


One thing to note that I've seen elsewhere, wiring diagrams say that my first accessory wire is PURPLE / green and secondary is BROWN / yellow. I do believe i have my H2/22 and H3/3 wired to BROWN / yellow. Could this be a problem or can i change that in the viper programming menu

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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:23 PM
NO! Disconnect immediately!
"H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT---WHITE/ orange at ign "
And again!
"H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT----tied into H3/4 starter output wire "
And yet again!!
"H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT------hooked to BROWN / yellow accessory "
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT----violet/white above brake pedal
Make sure this only goes to 12V+ when you push on the brake pedal.
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)------PURPLE / green acc2 wire
Connect to BROWN / yellow and program as 2nd. ACC.
If you're very lucky you might not have fried the R/S part of your unit. Are the fuses intact?

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:41 PM
Ok, H2/10, H2/18, and H2/22 wires disconneced. I did use a DMM on all the fused wires and they are getting power on both side of the fuse, just to make sure a fuse isnt loose or anything. I did test the violet starter wire when hitting the r/s button and it only goes up to about 4.5 volts instead of the 14v when cranking with the key

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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:43 PM
I think you've cooked it with those connections.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:54 PM
That sucks. Well the only thing I haven't rewired yet would be the H3/4 pink/white wire to the brown yellow. Would I need to switch both accesory wires around or can you have pink/white and orange accessory output to the brown yellow. If that wouldnt matter, I'll just send it out to have it repaired or something.

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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 1:00 PM
Not sure but you must program that pink/white as 2nd ACC follow Menu 3 item 8 option2, also menu 3 item 10, option 1 (default).
By the way, have you waited 15 seconds, default diesel start delay?

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 13, 2014 at 1:18 PM
Thanks for your help. I'll try these out later.

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Josh




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 11:25 AM
So I was out poking around with a DMM on some wires on the ignition switch, Checking for 12 volts during crank. The blue/white wire coming out of my ignition switch, cut and connected to the H3/6 Green Starter input wire. Well, while pushing the r/s button, this wire gets no voltage from the switch going into the brain. If i put the key in and turn it to start, this wire gets the full 12v. Any thoughts on that?


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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 12:17 PM
It won't the violet on the other side of the cut is the starter OUTPUT from the remote start. The green is the starter INPUT.

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Test before boxing up.




Posted By: blackbeauty08
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 12:24 PM
Does the ignition switch not supply voltage to the green input to the brain. It does when starting with the keyposted_image

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Josh




Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 12:27 PM
Why should it?
Read my last post again, then look at the instructions.

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Test before boxing up.





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