Ground While Running Input?

Question:

What is the (GWR) Ground while running Cable on the Fortin EVO-ALL and what is it use? What happens if you don't connect this input on the Canbus Interface Module? If your remote start or Alarm system don't has this output where should it be connected?

Thank you for your replies in advance.

If you are not using the D2D harness between the EVO-ALL and the remote start unit, the GWR signal wire is necessary.  The Remote start unit uses it to let the EVO-ALL that it is initiating a remote start and that the EVO-ALL should perform its' duties as a bypass module.  All remote start units have this signal but it can be called by various names depending on the manufacturer.  Some of the more common are :  Ground When Running, GWR, (-) Status Output and (-) 3rd Ignition.  

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Thanks Kreg357.

Is the D2D the 4-pin Data-Link harness? Is this GWR(-)Signal only used while starting the engine or does is stay ON during the whole remote start mode. What happens if this GWR(-)Signal goes OFF during the Remote Start mode? Will the engine go off too? Can this GWR(-)Signal, if not connected, cause the tachometer signal to go off after a while on the Interface Module?

Yes, the D2D is the 4 Pin Data-Link harness.  This harness also has many names depending on the manufacturer and the
communications protocol it uses.  This area of discussion could easily be a 2 day instructor taught course at a Vocational /
Technical Training center.

The remote start unit turns on the GWR signal as part of a sequence of events that must occur in a specific order during a remote
start.  GWR comes ON just slightly before the remote start units turns on its' IGN and ACC outputs.  GWR continues to stay on during
the entire remote start programmed engine run time plus a second or two.   This remote start sequence would be another day or two
of training at the same Vo/Tech school.

On a vehicle that does not have an engine immobilizer system, the GWR signal would not be used to control the bypass module.   In
this case, GWR is completely superfluous and its' output would have nothing to do with the remote starter control of the vehicle's
engine.   ( GWR could still be used for a Starter Anti-Grind relay circuit.)

GWR is controlled by the remote starter and should not drop out during the systems programmed remote start run time.  If the
remote starter determines there is a problem ( over-rev condition ), the Brake Pedal is depressed or the hood is opened, it can
end the remote start run time early by shutting down the ignition wires and turning off the GWR signal.

As I mentioned in a prior post reply, the bypass modules Tach output is typically an input to a remote starter unit used to determine
the length of crank time.  It could also be monitored by the remote start unit for an over-rev condition during remote start engine run
time, if the remote start unit has that capability.  In this case, it would seem to me that the Tach output should be present during the
entire engine run time, at least.  I have never had an issue where I needed to put an O'scope on the Tach output, so I'm not positive.
It might be best to contact Fortin directly with your EVO-ALL Tach issues / concerns and get their response.

Realistically, if you need a solid / valid Tach signal, I would recommend going directly to the vehicle.  On many Toyota vehicles it
can be found at Pin 9 of the OBD2 diagnostic connector ( as HarryHarris pointed out ) or from a Fuel Injector or Spark Plug Coil on
gasoline engines ( Diesels, which we don't see many of in the States, might be different.)

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Kreg pulling a tach signal off a diesel injector is "iffy" in my experience, I've done 2 Mits L200 (Japanese pick-up, don't know if it's sold in the US) one perfect, the other failed.
Euro VW and Ford diesels, only from a CAN module.
BTW I've already told the OP that Fortin don't list for his vehicle, thus the software may vary and this could be "glitching" the EVO-ALL tach signal, I've already mentioned the infamous pin 9 to the OP and suggested hardwiring at that point. In fact ANY vehicle that has a wire at pin 9, that's your perfect tach pick-up.
I've used a 454t inductive sensor on a VW diesel, the 5704 I was installing programmed out as OK but it still wouldn't work.

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Thanks again Kreg357 and for the other friend with the insisting nasty hardwire method:

If I use the hardwire method I will Need a Constant DC Current of 0-5 volts when the key is in ON position and 8-14.7 Volts when engine is running because this System does not use Tachometer sensing for hardwire method. It uses Alternator sensing and it should be connected to the alternators Battery signal light wire. It work great like that on all mayor vehicles but with this Toyota RAV-4 there is a catch, it Works but the battery light on the dashboard is slightly visible specially at night. This system is a alarm, remote start and Push-To-Start conversion system combo. And since this system has the 4-pin data link port specially to be used with Fortin EVO-ALL I gave it a try.

Kreg357 what is the typical characteristics of the tachometer signal of Pin 9 of OBD2 port: Is it DC or AC current? What is the Voltage range it uses with ignition on and then with the Engine running? Can that signal be converted to the alternator signal I need to hardwire and avoid using the alternator Battery Signal light wire.

Sorry Monti but I know Kregg will agree here. If you have a system that uses alternator voltage or oil pressure switch, throw it away you will get nothing but trouble.
Having said that your tach signal is the + side of an AC sine wave.
It's a DC signal but because of it's oscillating voltage use AC volts 1-20 to test.
You measure it with a DMM set to AC volts the reading should be about 3 VAC at idle increase slightly as you use the engine revs.
You won't get a reading with ignition on, only with engine run.
Incidentally I almost never use a DMM a dual LED (+) and (-) such as Mac 120 is more than good enough to test.

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By the way"is it DC or AC current"? Forget current, it's so low you can forget about it, refer to voltage and IMO nearly all Japanese/Korean vehicles apart from data immobiliser bypass are very much easier to hardwire.
If you correctly solder the joints you will have a far more reliable installation.

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Also Monti, you mentioned a different vehicle in an earlier post and sorry, I should have looked harder at "Rav-4" or Rabbis as we call them here.
Of course the EVO-ALL is compatible.

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That DC voltage will either be on a wire at the engine management or rear of instrument panel use only a Digital MultiMeter to test.

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Well it's a Rabbi 2014 A/T with H-key. The alternator sensing Works great with all vehicles and with this Rabbi it Works too but with the problem of the Battery Signal light on the dashboard. I have to tell you that alternator sensing is reliable until this moment. If Fortin EVO-ALL in compatibles with this Rav-4 why do you think it cut's off the tachometer signal after you switch from Parking to Drive and start to move the vehicle. And it is until the vehicle moves that the signal cuts OFF.

At a guess the Fortin is sending a an AC 3-5 volts signal on engine run which would be for a "reputable" unit, DEI, Comp., A/Voxx etc. They need a genuine tach signal.
Take the sensing wire from your unit and join it to a wire either at the engine ECU or instrument panel that gives the reading you specified.

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Thanks for your reply.

No this system uses Alternator sensing only while Hardwiring. This systema is specially design to be use with Fortin EVO-ALL and has the 4 pin data-link port to be connected to Fortin EVO-ALL by data link cable. So when connected by Data-link cable it uses the Tachometer signal from the Fortin EVO-ALL to sense if motor is running or not.
I Works fine. The remote start Works great. Sincé this system has the PUSH-TO-START convertion the Main Control module Needs to keep reciving the Tachometer Signal(Data Link) or Alternator Sensing (Hardwiring) all the time. But when you switch A/T from P to D the fortin Module shuts the tachometer signal OFF. I will check if the pin9 tach-signal of the OBD-2 port goes off too.

It won't because that would fail the dozens of "reputable" R/S-alarm units I've installed in Toyotas, BMW's etc. when I've used that wire.
Except they take a genuine tach signal. The Fortin module is giving it a genuine tach signal. NOT the same as the signal you get from an alternator warning light.

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Again this system uses alternator sensing only for hardwiring. It uses tachsensing when connected to Fortin EVO-ALL with the 4-Pin Data-Link cable. The problem is that the tachometer signal on the fortin EVO-ALL dies after switching the A/T from P to D and releasing the Brake pedal. The problem relies on the Fortin EVO-ALL Module not on the alarm system main module.

There's a way to test.
In W2W mode you have a tach output. Try finding that wire and seeing if it's giving you the 3-5VAC when you move the gearshift.
BTW Did you flash program the Fortin as W2W or D2D? You can select on flashing.

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