car security keyless entry alarm wiring

i just bought a cheap security alarm keyless entry system for my 98 maxima, i bought a unitech uni335. i got the instructions out an started the install. all the harnesses in the direction tells what color the wire is, what it does,an where to connect them except one 20 pin harness. the direction only tell me the wire color an purpose of the wire but not where to connect it. there are a few wires that say ground output when armed, ground output when running,ground output when starting ect. where do these grounds go. i assummed just ground to chassis but than i figured that not right so here i am . any help an info what be appreciated thanks.

Ground out while armed/used to drive a starter kill relay.
Ground out while running/used to drive a bypass or second ignition relay.
Ground out while running/ used to drive a second starter relay.
From what you described, you may not need any of these. DO NOT ground them.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

ok so i got the alarm part partially working i think,now my main concern is the keyless entry, again 98 maxima. as i have researched this car has a double pulse unlocking system negative triggered. i was told by audio installation shop i either need a module or to go cheaper i can do a 5 wire relay. i bought the relays [2] an the harnesses. i tried to do it an i fried my main switch. my doors wouldnt lock or unlock an none of my windows worked so i went to junk yard got new switch an fixed that problem, i tried the 5 wire relay thing again an i ended up frying the switch again but this time only the driver window an driver lock/unlock doesnt work. i assume its the switch again since i wired my window motor to 12volts an made it go back up. so can anyone post a 5 wire relay negative trigger diagram for an idiot, cuz the ones i seen on this site are not working. either that or i just cant find my actuator wires. it says 2 wires go to switch{is this the switch itself or the 2 wires from the alarm brain??] an 2 other wires go to acuator side[whats that mean? the wires go from the actuator right to the switch as far as i can see. 2 wires are grounded, an 2 wires go to 12 volts, an to get grounded. is this correct or am i missing something? its 2 5 pin relays. im going back to junk yard to spend another 25 bucks on a new switch, i really hope to not fry this one since money tight an junk yard doesnt have anymore of my switches. as far as remote start part i think ill get that to work once i find my neatral switch wire an tach wire at bcm. neatral switch isnt the color on the tech sheet on this site,or the location is not correct.

Not 5 wire at all light green NEG (-) lock and light GREEN/ YELLOW double pulse NEG(-) to unlock.

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Test before boxing up.

You do not need relays for keyless entry on this car, they are low current negative triggers. If your alarm has negative outputs for lock & unlock, you can directly wire them to the car.
Lock is (-) lt GREEN/ red, unlock is (double pulse -) GREEN/ YELLOW (the 1st pulse disarms the car and the 2nd pulse unlocks the doors).
Both of these wires at the driver's door switch can be tested by metering them while turning the driver's lock cylinder using the key.

^^ Howie is too quick

Shoooosh I'm not supposed to be Howie any more
Probably the worst kept secret on this forum.
By the way I made a mistake on the lock wire going from here to Directechs and back, a senior moment, sorry, yellowcake is correct on the lock colour, or should I say color?

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Test before boxing up.

yes you guys are right on the lock/unlock colors . ive known that but my problem is i hook up the wires an it doesnt work. also my tech sheet {wire colors] sheet says this car has double pulse negative trigger. i use a test light an both my lock an unlock wires are positive. i put test light on brown wire an BROWN / white wire an ones positive lock an other positive unlock or viseversa. my alarm has 3 wires for the locking system red 12v an a blue -lock +unlock an green +lock -unlock. this is all my directions tell me, so how do i hook up these 3 wires an what do i hook them to? my lock/unlock colors dont do sh@%.. i had a install shop tell me i needed 5 wire relay, on here you guys say no lol either way i do it i cant get it. oh an also i dont know if it matters or not but this car does not have a factory keyless entry/alarm as far as i can tell. i see the same car in junk yard today that had relays under the hood labeled antitheft an in the trunk had modual for keyless entry. but my car doesnt have any of that so i assume it was optional.

What are the number of wires and their colours coming from the lock motor in the driver's door?
Also if low current switching and your test light has an incandescent bulb, ground the clip and probe the rear of the switch, that will give you the correct wires.
PS Is one of them RED / yellow or yellow/red?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

there are a total of 14 wires on the back of that switch, an yes ones GREEN/ red an GREEN/ YELLOW. supposedly the lock an unlock wires .also i just took a wire an grounded it an used the other end to touch the GREEN/ red an GREEN/ YELLOW wires an one does lock the doors an the other does unlock them. if i use a test light on the brown an BROWN / white wires i get power from one when i lock the door an power from the other when i unlock it. what do i do. obviously i see now that all 4 of these wires have something to do with the locking system. if you do know what i have to do to make this work please be specific, i really appreciate it.

You've already found the answer!

"took a wire an grounded it and used the other end to touch the GREEN/ red and GREEN/ YELLOW wires an one does lock the doors an the other does unlock them".
Ground output to each, job done.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

also the tach wire supposedly WHITE/ green at the ecm.....nope wrong. i was told the way to check was with a DDM set on acv,black lead to ground red lead to the supposed tach wire an it would read between 1v an 6v an increase as u give it gas. if thats correct way than the WHITE/ green wire at the ecm is not the correct wire. an back to ketless entry i connected my lock/unlock wires from the alarm/keyless entry to the GREEN/ red GREEN/ YELLOW at the door switch an i got the doors to lock but not unlock, so i figured id try grounding the brown wire also at the switch like i was told an i shorted out the switch again for a 3rd time. now my driver lock/unlock an driver window doesnt work. an i cant find another at any junk yard around me. im going crazy with this car. never again will i buy a nissan an try installing an alarm/remote start in one. any help on these locks an tach wire would be great.

If it didn't unlock, you should have set your yumit for double pulse unlock and especially checked your unit for unlock to see if it had an output, NOT connect the brown wire.
As for tach, your injectors each have 2 wires, one will be the same colour (common wire) on all, any of the other colours will do.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok tach wire does not work at the injector. my injectors have 3 wires 2 commons which are red wire a black wire an an uncommon color, i put tach wire on uncommon wire an still no start. on a plus side i got my doors to lock an unlock with the transmitter but it only works when alarm is in silent mode any idea why an how to fix it to work with the alarm ? the direction on how to program this thing are horrible. i have a pink wire that says 2 stage unlocking an works with most electronic locking systems but i dont know where to connect it since the directions only tell you what the wire does when its connected but doesnt tell you where to connect it. anyone know what to do with this wire on a 98 maxima with supposed double pulse negative triggers? do i need a relay? there is a 3 pin plug coming off the brain of the alarm system for locking system red wire blue wire an green wire. an on the 20 pin plug for the other stuff that is where the pink wire is i talked about above. anyone help

mpalmisano wrote:

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ok tach wire does not work at the injector. my injectors have 3 wires 2 commons which are red wire a black wire an an uncommon color,

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The above are your ignition coils. Try an injector. The injectors only have 2 wires, the common color being red.

Injectors are located on the intake manifold, and have a common metal rail (for fuel) that is common to all of them.

Yea I know I forget to mention I did the injector first an it didn't work so than I tried the coils sorry bout that. So in any event I did the injector an no luck. Tomorrow ill try tach wire behind the gauge bezel like instruction told me to do if I couldn't find it at the computer. Doubt it will work but ill try. Still no one has any ideas bout the unlock problem with the alarm in siren mode?? Anyone. Or if the pink wire mentioned earlier

Is this an alarm or alarm plus remote start?
You never originally mentioned R/S so I was wondering why you needed tach?
P.S. Ever wondered why some off brand/unknown/ebay product was so much cheaper than the reputable product?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yes i know they garbage from ebay, 3kings.com is where i bought it but all the same ebay crap. an yes its a r.s with alarm an keyless entry all in one unit. an my car does not have a factory keyless entry system. there are no signs i see that it ever had one, no relays under hood ,no brain/module i can see anywhre, no factory security light. i seen my same car at junk yard with factory keyless entry an it had relays under hood, module in trunk an security light in dash so thats where i though id look on my own car an its got nothing. my car only has one lock/unlock switch in the driver door nothing on passanger side , if i use key in the driver or passanger door cylinder an turn key twice it will lock/unlock all 4 doors. tech sheet on this site says GREEN/ YELLOW unlock double pulse negative trigger. i got my transmitter to lock/unlock doors but only with alarm silent. if its in chirp mode it will only lock the doors it will not unlock them. there are 14 wires on back of my door switch but if i remove door panel an follow wires only 4 of them go to a harness clip, green.yellow GREEN/ red a black an a yellow wire . idk if this helps you or not im just trying to give as much info as i can. an i also stated previously about the pink 2 step unlock wire from the r.s/alarm/keyless entry unit.    tach wire didnt work at the injector, tach wire supposedly WHITE/ green at ecm an its not right. maybe injector would work but im missing a connection somewhere else i dont know. neautral safty is grounded like directions say, brake wire connected an tested an is correct,hood pin is working properly. what else can i be missing.?

Ok so lets not focus on tach wire I just read in the manila that unless all doors are locked the r.s won't start the car an since my driver door won't lock automaticly with the switch cuz I fried it the alarm LCD transmitter is constantly showing my driver door is open so I don't think r s will work until I fix the switch     . Maybe     my doors won't unlock because of that switch as well. Because when it worked properly my GREEN/ red an GREEN/ YELLOW wires had 12volts now that its broke an doesn't work on driver lock/unlock an the driver window those 2 wires do not have 12 volts anymore. Anyone think that's the problem on why my doors won't unlock with remote

just a recap on the r.s lock/unlock problem an the car not starting problem on 98 maxima....it turns out all my wireing was correct the first time, the unit itself was bad. sent it back hooked up new one an everything worked. thanks for everyones help on that anyway. i posted a new issue im having with it though , i cant get my trunk to pop with the remote. if anyone thinks they can help read my post on trunk pop 98 maxima an let me know if anyone has any imput. thanks guys.