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viper tuning sensors, why faulting?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136685
Printed Date: April 23, 2024 at 1:38 PM


Topic: viper tuning sensors, why faulting?

Posted By: inssane
Subject: viper tuning sensors, why faulting?
Date Posted: May 23, 2014 at 8:52 PM

Hi everyone

I have a Viper 5706V, was professionally installed. Understanding that sensors are annoying, there is alot of car crimes in my area, so I felt it was wise.

Everything DEI, proximity sensor, ultrasonic sensor, stinger shock sensor.

I had the warn away on the prox sensor dialed in perfectly (yes I adjusted warn away, then full, per instructions). 5 seconds looking any of the windows and it would chirp consistently, and on time. I turned the interior prox sensor all the way down, because I kept getting faulty full triggers randomly.

I had the ultrasonic sensor unplugged for some time, because I didn't have time to dial that in with everything else. My shock sensor needed to be more sensitive as well. The shop did a good job, but when things aren't tuned outside of a lit shop, there are lots of faults IMO.

Today, I adjusted the shock sensor and plugged in the ultrasonic sensor for adjusting. My proximity warn away was not changed, and the interior prox sensor setting was all the way down.

I did the shock sensor first, and got it pretty much how I wanted it. I rolled my window part way down and tested ultrasonic after plugging it back in and adjusting a bit, and got it to warn away, with no full trigger (not sure if that's normal), but it took some effort most times to trip the ultrasonic. I then turned the interior prox sensor setting up a tiny bit at a time, so I could get full trigger at some point of someone reaching in. I am a fan of warn away first.

Basically, the car stopped communicating triggers to my remote. I fiddled with the sensor settings a bit and nothing. BUT, when I unlocked my car, it would report that a full alarm went off.
So I test this, I lock it, then 10 seconds later unlock it, and it reports full trigger again.

I then unplugged the ultrasonic, turned the prox sensors completely down (I couldn't get it unplugged), and turned the shock sensor all the way down. I started my car to make sure Volts were good, >13v standing, and 14v when idling. I tried it again, same thing!
All sensors turned off, disabled, even through the remote I bypassed ALL sensors, and it doesn't send anything to my remote, but I unlock and it tells me that the full trigger was tripped.

ANY advice?

Sometimes 4 buzzes from the remote sometimes 5, I couldn't find out what that means.

I have to keep it on silent, and if someone breaks in tonight, nothing will sound.
Thanks!
Nick

I hope I was clear, and not confusing.



Replies:

Posted By: inssane
Date Posted: May 23, 2014 at 8:55 PM
I might add, that all the sensors worked fine, all of the sudden things went haywire as described.
It was not like I plugged in a sensor and it suddenly stopped working. As I said, ultrasonic was unplugged for some time, but tested just fine in 30 minutes of dialing in.
N




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 24, 2014 at 1:58 AM
Just a thought but if any sensors share a port, say u/sonics and prox, are they diode separated?
Also why do you need ultrasonics when you have a dual zone prox? Ultrasonics are notoriously error prone, it's why we got rid of them in Europe, placed too near an air vent?
Also one other point; pros go for minimal sensors, e.g. prox and shock, LESS false alarms.Is your vehicle by any chance parked near a police or other emergency vehicle depot?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: May 25, 2014 at 1:16 AM
Read up on the "nuisance prevention shutdown" that DEI's have had for quite some time now. There is a note in the install manual that advises you to be aware of activating nuisance prevention during system testing.

Basically, if a zone is triggered 3 times in one hour, the system will ignore that zone until the next ignition-on cycle.

The 4 buzzes of the remote means a full trigger was activated since the last ignition-on cycle. 5 buzzes means a nuisance prevention was activated since the last ignition-on cycle.




Posted By: inssane
Date Posted: May 27, 2014 at 2:14 AM
It seems that after a rest, things stopped being too sensitive and wacky. I was able to tinker with it and got the ext. zone the way I want, although with tonight's rain, it was chirping, so I disabled sensors.

@davep
The five buzzes is helpful, thanks.
I had the installer enable the nps because I'm in the city and can't have it false all night during a storm because I may be out of range. I do understand that when the full alarm is triggered three times it will shut down, and that it takes an hour or next ignition.

What about the warn away? Is there a limit or shutdown?

@howie
I'm not parked by any police/fire depot.

As far as I know, none of the sensors trigger based off of each other.
I have a feeling that because of the position of the ultrasonic sensors are to close to the defrost vents, they are by the dash and not the headliner, air still moves through some. From what I had researched, with the dual zone, it may not always detect glass break, so I did the u/s.

I thought the glass break sensor would false too much, but more reading (after install) has shown that the u/s is way worse, and I see it.

I have the interior zone sensor turned all the way down right now. Even with the u/s unplugged, I was getting full trigger falses from the inner zone, and couldn't figure a trend as to why. I could park and walk away and it would go off two minutes later, or I could arm it and stick my arm all the way in to the door handle for 30+ seconds and it wouldn't trigger (at the same sens. level). I would rather have warn away false alarms, or just an audio sensor since I am concerned with the glass (prior bad exp.), so long as this sensor won't false.

Am I able to simply plug the dei audio sensor in place of the ultrasonic? I know I have to run the microphone and such, but if I could just replace the sensor without extra wiring, that would be the best.

Also better dual zone sensors that I could replace this dei dual zone with? I just want it dialed in and consistent. I can dial it in, but it's not consistent and requires way more tweaking than it really should, imo. I do understand that's the risk I take with more sensors though.
Suggestions?

Thanks for the info - I appreciate it




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 27, 2014 at 2:17 AM
First rule of u/s sensors, never place close to air vents!
Usually install at top of "A" pillar.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: inssane
Date Posted: May 27, 2014 at 2:21 AM
Yeah, that's what I read after the install, and me troubleshooting sensors.
The wiring is soldered, and tight, clean, but I would think they would know how to place that properly.

I also had to place my place my dual zone more centrally to the car to get the driver and pass to trigger warn away in an equal amount of time. That took a while to figure out, because I only really had to move it 6" back and 4" over for it to work much better.




Posted By: inssane
Date Posted: May 27, 2014 at 2:23 AM
Dammit, can't edit post :)

It's not like they are in front of or directly near a vent, bottom of the a pillar tucked into windshield corners. But the vent is along the windscreen, so I guess indirectly effects it more than I would have even thought.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 27, 2014 at 2:27 AM
Sorry, just don't like u/sonics.
An installer has just spent 3-5 hours on your car, it can take up to another hour just to get a 508d right and in the next 24 hours it goes unstable and you have to desensitise it slightly.
Also I've placed them exactly dead centre and the effect is still sided.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: jasonali13
Date Posted: January 07, 2016 at 10:43 AM
Hi, can you tell me how to adjust the shock sensor on your 5706v. I just got one installed and i can not get into the sensor adjust settings on the remote. I had all doors closed, system unarmed. went into remote settings, adjust sensor, held the f button down but nothing happens. as soon as i press and hold the f button the remote beeps twice. i can hold the f button for 1 minute and the sensor settings still wont come up and the siren doesnt chirp.
thanks




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 07, 2016 at 10:48 AM
Find the shock sensor adjust the small potentiometer with a 2.5 mm screwdriver.
Or download the full instructions from Viper.com/support.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: jsnali13
Date Posted: January 07, 2016 at 10:53 AM
the shock sensor is built into the brain.  I've searched the internet but can only find 5901 or 5701 models.  there are videos showing how to adjust the sensor by the LC3 remote, i just cant get it to work.




Posted By: jsnali13
Date Posted: January 07, 2016 at 10:59 AM
i downloaded the manual and it just says if the shock sensor is not sensitive enough or too sensitive, contact an authorized dealer for them to adjust it.




Posted By: jasonali13
Date Posted: February 01, 2016 at 1:52 PM
so i finally got a bitwriter. after pulling out the brain of my 5706v, i noticed it does come with a shock sensor instead of it being builtin. the shock sensor doesnt look like it has an adjustment screw so i used the bitwriter. the only thing i dont know is, is the higher the number the more sensitive the shock sensor gets? or is it the lower number?

I tried the higher number and attached the shock sensor of a fairly loose wire harness. yet if i stand out side the armed car and hit it... it does nothing.




Posted By: justjacked27
Date Posted: April 20, 2017 at 9:03 PM
I have a 5901 built in shock sensor on a larger car it probably depends on where its hit and where the sensor is what model shock sensor is that? my manual 5901 says not to install on steering column or bare metal. I was thinking about adding an external. Can you sit in your armed car and tap the shock sensor?

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Looking for the TJ Voice Synthesizer 4/12 In Damascus Maryland 10/09




Posted By: jsnali13
Date Posted: April 23, 2017 at 2:26 PM
Hi justjacked27
I found i do have the double shock sensor and it was mounted to solid metal. I removed it and mounted it to some lose wires.. seems to work a bit better on one side of my car... but going around the car gets worse and worse especially towards the back. A bump sets off the alarn fully around the driver side.. but the passenger side pretty much nothing. I have a ford escape. I did get a proximity sensor but havent hooked it up yet. Not sure how or were and where i live now.. not really any installers.
Double shock sensor 504 i think is the number.




Posted By: justjacked27
Date Posted: April 23, 2017 at 3:09 PM
You can add multiple sensors if you want, run them in parallel(one thing I'm not sure about is if they can take backward current so you might need to use diodes on output triggers of 2 504 units). I'm not sure if your unit has enough power to supply 2 or more sensors but you can use a different power source, or use the alarm to turn on a relay that runs your sensors. I just got a few Sensors still learning but I do know you can add as many as you want just don't try and pull too much power from the alarm. I'm adding the 504 to the back of my car I think. Did you put your 504 in the center or car? You need to do that for the proximity sensor. I have SUV like yours    Proximity, my problem is center console is a pain to get in and seats effect it, try and get it as close as you can to the back of two front seats back so it can do all four windows otherwise your going to set sensitivity too high for the front two windows to get the back two, mine won't get the back window, it may but I would have to set sensitivity way to high, might add a second and set them both low.

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Looking for the TJ Voice Synthesizer 4/12 In Damascus Maryland 10/09




Posted By: justjacked27
Date Posted: April 23, 2017 at 3:59 PM
Also says to keep away from light wires, best mounted on something like an a/c duct. try zip tie or double sided tape, since it's a shock sensor a zip tie against it may be better, double sided tape may insulate it and make it less sensitive. I'll try to test a 504d tomorrow.

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Looking for the TJ Voice Synthesizer 4/12 In Damascus Maryland 10/09




Posted By: jsnali13
Date Posted: April 23, 2017 at 5:45 PM
Yeah i read the proximity sensor should go in the middle of the vehicle preferably in the headliner, but i have a sunroof which might make that hard. I seen post where its installed in the centre console box lid.. so was thinking of trying it that way.
Im sure i read you need diods to run more then one sensor.. but im very basic and dont really have knowledge of diods and relays are a bit confusing still lol

Would you know the wires for the sunroof motor? I also have a 529t i wanted to use with the sunroof but cant find anything on wires for a 2005 ford escape.

Thanks a lot for all your posts and suggestions




Posted By: jsnali13
Date Posted: July 14, 2017 at 12:19 PM

Hi Jutjacked27

I've added the proximity sensor. ran the wires under the center console and the unit is zipped tied to under the box opening in the center console. fairly easy to pull up the center console to run the wires.
only problem is... it seems to only monitor the side windows and side of the car.

were you able to run another shock sensor to the back of your car? and where did you mount it? I already have an extra shock sensor, so not sure if I should use that or order another proximity sensor and place it in the back somewhere






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