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rs 730 and idatalink ads al gm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136749
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 1:35 PM


Topic: rs 730 and idatalink ads al gm

Posted By: trigga_b
Subject: rs 730 and idatalink ads al gm
Date Posted: June 04, 2014 at 10:51 AM

First, I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave Ultra. There is a xpresskit bypass xk09 possibly and commando remote start installed from previous owner (professionally installed).

I removed the commando remote start and wired my rs730 heavy gauge main harness to those connections which is 99% correct. Also the parking light output was already wired from the commando remote start so I just tapped into those wires which looks to be wired using negative polarity and not positive. So I cut the RED / white: Parking light relay power input from the H5 harness of rs730 and wired it to ground. I also wired the brake input, wire neutral safety switch input to ground, and nothing else from the rs730 alarm itself.

now I tried to use the data cable between the rs730 and the idatalink, but the idatalink kept flashing slow red and even when I tried to factory reset it. So I hardwired the connects between the rs730 and idatalink module even the optional door and trunk status inputs which is connected to the door and trunk trigger wires on the rs730. I still in the end have the slow flashing light and can't program the idatalink module.

I've tried contacting idatalink and they told me that my serial is invalid...... So i don't know what to do from this point.




Replies:

Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 04, 2014 at 10:52 AM
Oh on the ADS-ALSL-GM1_20111004 install guide I used type 3 which doesn't include any wiring to the passkeyIII




Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 05, 2014 at 10:18 AM
Anyone????




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 05, 2014 at 10:30 AM

Possibly silly questions but just so we don't overlook any thing...

Which iDatalink bypass module are you using?  ADS AL-CA, ADS ALSL GM, ADS  DL or ADS DLSL GM1

What firmware and firmware version is flashed onto the module?  There should be a white sticker on the box the module was packed in that shows what firmware was flashed on it at the factory and the correct guide to use / follow.

Do you have the ADS USB cable if needed?



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 06, 2014 at 12:09 PM
It's ads-alsl gm, date is 2013-10-23 and t/c is x8705a5ea2. I don't have the cable and I haven't gotten it flashed. I'm using type 3 wiring diagram.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 06, 2014 at 2:23 PM
Does the white box sticker show the firmware type / version and especially the applicable install guide number? Looks like there are a few to choose from : https://www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/3

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 06, 2014 at 5:27 PM
no it doesn't. There's just a few dashes, I was thinking there isn't any firmwareb ut they do come preloaded with firmware from the factory




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 06, 2014 at 6:59 PM
Bummer...

The orange box Solo series does come pre-flashed with firmware. I typically use the green boxed Multi series and flash the correct / latest
version on it prior to use.

Well, we could assume it is GM1 firmware and go from there.

I am not sure if the AutoPage systems need DBI firmware or ADS firmware for the D2D to work. Now that you switched and made all the
hardwire W2W connections it doesn't matter which flavor of firmware is loaded on the module.

Programming the module is a two or three step process. Here is how I would do it.
1. Preform the Factory reset procedure and stop after step 5.
2. Perform the Installation Mode selection at this point. Choose Standard Mode ( 2 blinks ) for your W2W install and lock it in.
3. Complete Step 6 of the Factory Reset procedure and then go on to the Module Programming Procedure using the ignition key.

Remember that all of the wire connections should be soldered, especially the Violet J1850 data connection at Pin 2 of the OBD2 plug.

In W2W mode the ADS ALSL GM Blue/White GWR wire goes to the RS 730's BROWN / Black Ground Output While Running wire.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 09, 2014 at 9:18 AM
Ok it's still flashing red, I'm just going to send it back for a refund and just wire the rest of the wires. I see wire diagrams that shows my car parking lights as positive, but the remote start that was installed from the previous owner has the lights wired using negative polarity so should I leave it wired as negative or should I wire it using positive polarity? My door locks are negative so would I still need to add a relay? OR couldn't I just wire the alarm's door lock/unlock wires at the bcm or stock door relay without the need of adding a relays?




Posted By: trigga_b
Date Posted: June 16, 2014 at 3:40 PM
Ok so it didn't have any firmware installed so I got it flashed and thought everything was going to be ok, WRONG. When i turn the key to start it just stays solid red. I have everything wired correctly what else am I missing? I tried using the data cable and hardwire mode




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 16, 2014 at 5:57 PM

What firmware / version is on the module ( so we can use the correct guide )?

Did you do a Factory Reset, Install Mode Selection / Lock-in and then the vehicle programming?



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Soldering is fun!





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