dei 530t problems

I just installed a DEI 530T in my 72 Chevelle for my 2 rear windows. The problem is the motor runs for about a half second then I can hear the 530T click and shut off with the switches in the high position. This happens in both directions. I have the batter in the trunk and I am running power and ground from the battery. The windows operator in both directions but as mentioned before shut off quickly. I have one of these in my front windows also and my drivers window works great but the pass has issues (suspected ground problem within the motor). I extended the 530T wires by about 2-3 times if the length is the problem I can shorten them but left them this way for routing and dressing.

Did I do something wrong or do I need to do this? https://www.teamclarion.com/sharedwebdbs/ clarionsupport.nsf/732ff3bc1327551388256a4c0078512c/ c2a2f22fc8cc66fe88256f7900781944/$FILE/ 1900%20530T%20Resistor%20Modification.pdf

If I need to do the mod which one should I do the code is OK/12I

The first thing is to ensure your windows run smoothly. 530t now has DIP switches so you shouldn't need those mods.
Frankly I wouldn't dare to install this on any car over 10 years old.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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The first thing is to ensure your windows run smoothly. 530t now has DIP switches so you shouldn't need those mods.
Frankly I wouldn't dare to install this on any car over 10 years old.

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That mod if for versions with dip switches. The windows work with the factory wiring I did verify that prior to doing this. I know it's probably not idea but I'd really like to use them. Granted this is for the rear windows and if it doesn't work it doesn't work but I have them tied into my Viper 5902 and would like to have the remote roll up and roll down.

Then by all means go ahead. You could also try thicker feed cables (+) and (-) to the unit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Then by all means go ahead. You could also try thicker feed cables (+) and (-) to the unit.

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I can try that also I ran 14 currently. I wanted to make sure I exhausted all options before modifying the unit.

Also just to make sure I'm right I tied the ground path inputs to the same ground line as the unit going to the battery since these are only 2 wire motors

What do you mean by fround path inputs? Do you mean the switches? If so yes.
BTW ALL window motors locks ard 2 wire by definition as a permanent magnet only has two wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Violet and Violet/black are the ground path inputs I'm referring to.

Oh yes ground them to the battery NEG (-) side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

K so it sounds like I have 2 options

1) Shorten the wires going to the motor or increase the gauge (or both)
2) Modify the 530T to remove those resistors.

Howie II thanks as always for helping out

530T units HATE old GM cars. those motors pull alot of amperage when the tracks are the least bit of resistant. The ony long term sucess i have ever had with them was to take the old tracks and  completely dissassemble and clean just like new ones would e and then lubed. i like to use a spray graphite on the tracks themselves and lube the rollers on the studball with a light lithium grease.

(experiences from 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix, various 1971-76 full sized Buicks. All these cars use the same power window motors as your car.  have done various GM trucks from 76-95. The pre 86 trucks usually need the extra prep too. 

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

itsyuk wrote:

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530T units HATE old GM cars. those motors pull alot of amperage when the tracks are the least bit of resistant. The ony long term sucess i have ever had with them was to take the old tracks and  completely dissassemble and clean just like new ones would e and then lubed. i like to use a spray graphite on the tracks themselves and lube the rollers on the studball with a light lithium grease.

(experiences from 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix, various 1971-76 full sized Buicks. All these cars use the same power window motors as your car.  have done various GM trucks from 76-95. The pre 86 trucks usually need the extra prep too. 

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I've tried grease but will try graphite. These are all brand new from Ground Up.

as in NOS new or aftermarket new?

aftermarket stuff is usually more compliant.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

You need to run ATLEAST 10Ga to those modules. 14 Ga is way too small.   Be careful lubing your window tracks, maybe try silicone.

And the MAX setting on those dipswitches isn't always the STRONGER setting, try it at normal....with 8-10 gauge power to the modules and you'll be happy.

This was a refurbished factory kit I believe

I will try to run 8 or 10 Ga wire and shorten the distance and see what happens. I tried all the dipswitch settings in the 530T manual.