viper 5906v+idatalink ads alca 8thg civic

I need help. I am trying to install a Viper 5906v alarm/remote start to my 2010 Civic myself. The iDatalink ADS-ALCA was flashed by AutoToys.com.



I want to go W2W. I have done wiring the ADS to the 5906v.



The problem is I don't know how to wire the 5906v to the car. Especially the 10-pin heavy gauge connector wires.



Thanks

Did they flash the DBI or ADS version of firmware on the ADS AL-CA bypass module? If it's the DBA AL(DL) HA2, you should be
using Install Guide #15376.

Hopefully it's the DBI version. If it is the DBI flavor. With it and the correct D2D harness you won't have to make all the dashed line
interconnections between the Viper and the iDatalink bypass module. Make sure you have the D2D harness that has a Red 4 Pin
connector on one end. If it's the ADS version, you will have to go W2W and make all the necessary module interconnections. That
shouldn't be an issue if you have a soldering station, too.

Notes :'
1. The iDatalink install chart does not show the necessary H3 ignition wire connections from the Viper to the Civic's ignition switch
harness or the +12V power and ground connections.
2. The Hood Status will only be available if you have the Factory Hood Pin.
3. The Viper Trunk Release will not work while the engine running / remote started.

Bench prep the modules first, prior to install. It will save time and look neater :


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Soldering is fun!

DBA AL(DL) HA2. I have all the wires and harness. Can I still go W2W? They say it's more reliable.

Thanks

Yes, you definitely can go W2W.      ( Still my preferred method, as it always works. )  Just set the ADS AL-CA to Standard Mode ( two blinks ) during module Installation Mode set-up ( top of Page 10 ).  Then make hard-wire connections for all necessary signals between the Viper and ADS AL-CA.

Did they notate which version of DBI AL(DL) HA2 is flashed on the module?  I think Ver 1.3 is the current version.  Do you have a 4 Door, Automatic Civic?  If so, you should be using Install Guide #15376 and the Type 3 diagram.

Might be a good idea to make-up and post a wire connection listing.  There are many wires that go from the Viper directly to the Civic that are not shown on the bypass module diagram.

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Soldering is fun!

I'm sorry for the late reply. Autotoys did not reply about the firmware information. Yes, it's a 4-door automatic.

Is this the right Install guide?

uploads/dba_aldl_ha2.jpg

Most of my wiring between ADS-ALCA and 5906v are shrink wrapped and sleeved. I might dismantle it tomorrow so that I can take pictures.



My main problem is this...

Viper 5906v 10-pin heavy gauge connector/wire


I don't even know if I should even wire this to my car. According to the Viper guide, I should. But in the ADS bypass module Install Guide it's not even there.

Lastly, Light Flash Polarity is - or +. What is Light Flash?



Thanks

Is this the right Install guide?

Yes, that is the correct ADS AL-CA install guide.

Yes, you will need to connect the H3 thick wires to the Civic.  They are not shown with the iDatalink bypass module
install diagram.  I don't have a pin-out of the 5906 H3 connector so hopefully it is the same as the 5904 shown below.

Viper 5904V H3      2010 Honda Civic ignition switch harness
H3/1 NC No Connection      Not Used
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT               White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A      Not Used
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT             Red  +  ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 5   ***
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT         White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)       Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Orange (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 4
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY        White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT           Blue (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 6

*** Program the Viper Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for the needed ACC2 output on the H3/4 Pink/White wire.

The Viper will flash the Civic's Parking Lights to confirm commands and in alarm conditions.  Your Viper Jumper/Fuse
is in the correct position for (-) Parking Light output.  You will connect the Vipers WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT wire
to this wire in the Civic :   Gray (-)  @ headlight switch, BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 11

As mentioned previously, you should make up a wiring chart ( like the H3 one above ) and post it for member review /
comment.  Nice work on the bypass to Viper W2W connections.  No need to rip it apart for photo's.

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Soldering is fun!

2010 Civic alarm and remote start wiring guide.

K, yes only difference from 5904 to 5906, black 2 way remote and no wall outlet charger, just a USB to mini USB.
Probably need to ground the H2 black white as well, on the DB-ALL2 Honda flash it isn't recognised at least not on Euro cars.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I took all my wiring apart. I saw your H2 wiring chart on a different thread and is totally different from what I wired. Can you kindly post wiring chart for H1 and H2?

Thanks

You've lost me here I never use W2W not in this application and the only wire I needed to use on H2 was the BLACK/ white.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Why would you never use W2W in this application?

Saving about an hour per install perhaps? Especially when I have to drive 100+ miles to get there.
I flash the CAN bus module the day before, label maker mark it with the software and take a spare, XKloader 2 and laptop with me.
My colleague also carries similar, he starts out in Bristol (100 miles west of London) does 2 + BMWs per day.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The other answer is that I've rarely had problems with D2D, especially when you realise that NONE of them completely give you what it says on the label.
With Hondas I've always had to either ground or handbrake the BLACK/ white, it doesn't recognise the parking brake on Euro GM, also doesn't do some hood switches.
I also NEVER use that ugly, stupid over-ride switch, I solder over the contacts, again with D2D I rarely need more than one wire from H2 so I solder to the board.
Got loads of spare looms, EVO, DB-ALL and 5X04.
Also like Kreg, for low current ignition and start requirements, I rewire the H3 plug with smaller gauge wiring, that loom is
a) Often not long enough.
b) Extremely poor quality.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Understood. If I go D2D, what other wires do I need to connect besides the H2 BLACK/ White Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input?

Only that and wait and see, it may work on the US version.
05-12 US was different to the Euro version slightly in body with a different cookpit although the electrics were the same.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

How about the H3 10-pin Heavy gauge wires of the 5906v?

Follow the instructions, go to ignition, test to see what's there and wire and program accordingly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You are very helpful. Thank you.

Mr. Kreg357, Can you please show proper wiring to connect Viper 5906v to the ADS-ALCA and to the car using W2W method.

Viper 5906v Harness 2
AUX/Shutdown/Trigger, 24-pin
H2/1 (-) Ignition 2 / Flex Output .2A Pink/White
H2/2 (-) 2nd Status / Rear Defogger Output .2A Blue/White
H2/3 (-) Trunk Release Output .2A     RED / White     
H2/4 (-) Dome Light Output .2A BLACK / YELLOW
H2/5 (-) Status Output .2A Dark Blue
H2/6 (-) Aux 3 Output .2A WHITE/ Black
H2/7 (-) Aux 1 Output .2A WHITE/ Violet
H2/8 (-) Aux 4 Output .2A ORANGE / Black
H2/9 (-) Hood Pin Input (Normally On or Normally Off) Gray
H2/10 (-) Trunk Pin / Instant Trigger Input (Normally On or Normally Off) Blue     
H2/11 Activation Input WHITE/ Blue
H2/12 Tachometer Input     Violet/White*
H2/13 (-) Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input     BLACK/ White**
H2/14 (-) Factory Alarm Disarm Output .2A GREEN/ Black
H2/15 (-) Door Input Green*
H2/16 (-) Horn Honk Output .2A BROWN / Black
H2/17 (-) Ignition 1 Output .2A Pink     
H2/18 (+) Door Input Violet*
H2/19 (-) Aux 2 Output.2A Violet/Black
H2/20 (+) Brake Shutdown Input Brown
H2/21 (-) Starter Output .2A Violet / YELLOW
H2/22 (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input Gray/Black     
H2/23 (-) Accessory Output .2A Orange
H2/24 (-) Factory Alarm Arm Output .2A     GREEN / WHITE

Thanks

OK.  Been busy with work but got a few minutes now.  A recap :
1.  2010 Honda Civic, 4 Dr, Auto
2.  Viper 5906V
3.  ADS AL-CA flashed with DBI AL(DL) HA2

Going with W2W between the Viper & ADS AL-CA using the Type 3 diagram on Install Guide #15376.

So far we have the H3 harness listed.

Viper 5904V H3      2010 Honda Civic ignition switch harness
H3/1 NC No Connection   Not Used
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT          White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A Not Used
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT        Red  +  ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 5   ***
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT      White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)   Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)           Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1  and ADS AL-CA BLACK/ White
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT           Orange (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 4
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY    White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT        Blue (+) @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 6

*** Program the Viper Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for the needed ACC2 output on the H3/4 Pink/White wire.

Here is the Viper H2 connections :

Viper 5906v Harness 2
AUX/Shutdown/Trigger, 24-pin  
H2/1 (-) Ignition 2 / Flex Output .2A Pink/White       Not Used
H2/2 (-) 2nd Status / Rear Defogger Output .2A Blue/White            Not Used
H2/3 (-) Trunk Release Output .2A     RED / White    To ADS AL-CA RED / White
H2/4 (-) Dome Light Output .2A BLACK / YELLOW          Not Used
H2/5 (-) Status Output .2A Dark Blue         To ADS AL-CA GWR Blue/White
H2/6 (-) Aux 3 Output .2A WHITE/ Black       Not Used
H2/7 (-) Aux 1 Output .2A WHITE/ Violet       Not Used
H2/8 (-) Aux 4 Output .2A ORANGE / Black    Not Used
H2/9 (-) Hood Pin Input (Normally On or Normally Off) Gray           To ADS AL-CA Yellow *
H2/10 (-) Trunk Pin / Instant Trigger Input Blue       To ADS AL-CA Yellow/Red
H2/11 Activation Input WHITE/ Blue               Not Used
H2/12 Tachometer Input     Violet/White      To Civic F.I.  any wire NOT Yellow/Black or YELLOW /GREEN
H2/13 (-) Neutral Safety / Parking Brake Input     BLACK/ White          To Chassis Ground
H2/14 (-) Factory Alarm Disarm Output .2A GREEN/ Black     Not Used
H2/15 (-) Door Input Green   To ADS AL-CA Yellow/Black
H2/16 (-) Horn Honk Output .2A BROWN / Black          To Civic  Orange (-)  @ horn switch, White 20 pin plug, Pin 10
H2/17 (-) Ignition 1 Output .2A Pink   Not Used 
H2/18 (+) Door Input Violet Not Used
H2/19 (-) Aux 2 Output.2A Violet/Black         Not Used
H2/20 (+) Brake Shutdown Input Brown      To Civic  Light Green (+)  @ brake switch
H2/21 (-) Starter Output .2A Violet / YELLOW    Not Used
H2/22 (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input Gray/Black         Not Used
H2/23 (-) Accessory Output .2A Orange       Not Used
H2/24 (-) Factory Alarm Arm Output .2A     GREEN / WHITE       Not Used

*  Verify that the Civic has the Factory Alarm system that monitors the hood.  If not, install the Viper supplied Hood Pin
and connect it to Viper H2/9.

All that is left is the H1 harness :

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT White (50A) (+)  @ ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 3        
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND         Chassis Ground
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT Viper siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION         Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT   To Civic  Gray (-)  @ headlight switch **
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GWA OUTPUT Not Used
** Set Viper Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-)

And of course there is the ADS AL-CA wires not already mentioned above :
Red to Viper H1/1 Red
Black and Blue/Red to Viper H1/2 Black
WHITE/ Red to Civic Gray Unlock
White to Civic Green Lock
and the three wires that go to the Civic's 7 Pin Transponder connector.

All of these connections should be well soldered and insulated.

Next is all the required programming.  Follow the bypass module guide steps on Page 10.  Use Installation Mode =
Standard ( 2 blinks ) as previously mentioned, lock it in and proceed with programming.

You also need to program the Viper's Flex relay to ACC2, set Engine Checking = Tach Mode and do a Tach Learn.

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Soldering is fun!

Arm and Disarm works. But remote start does not. I also have check engine and the car does not start even when I use the keys.

mannydelrosario wrote:

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Arm and Disarm works. But remote start does not. I also have check engine and the car does not start even when I use the keys.

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Arm/Disarm works, but do the doors lock and unlock? When you start the car with the key what happens and doesn't happen? It's difficult to verify whether you have a set check engine light when the car does not start. The check engine light typically comes up during key on for bulb test/check purposes.

In any case regarding starting the car with the key, ensure the alarm is deactivated and your ignition switch wires are connected properly.

And when you or a pro gets the engine running and if the light stays on disconnect the battery for 20 minutes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

H3 violet and green are connected the wrong way round.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Green to key side, violet to motor side.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It lock and unlock. Key inserted in the second position the check engine light stay on. Using key to start only cranks not start.

Check the ignition wires at the switch using a DMM. Or you've managed somehow to mess up the factory immobiliser.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Recheck, and then double check your connections between the alca and the wires at the ignition make sure they are right. If they are right, disconnect them at the ignition or even easier at the alca and try to start the car with the key then. If the car starts then you have a wiring or flash issue with the alca.

I was able to start it by key before I connected the tach wire to the FI.

Disconnect immediately, you've gone to the wrong wire at the injector.
Did you test your chosen injector wire before connecting?
Question? Doesn't the alca give you a tach signal?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No I did not test it. I connected it to the BLACK/ white closest to the driver side.

Do you know how to test for tach?
Also once more, does the CAN module your using have a dedicated tach output?
Frankly I don't think unqualified/inexperienced persons should go with W2W, too many chances for a mistake.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

mannydelrosario wrote:

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No I did not test it. I connected it to the BLACK/ white closest to the driver side.

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Why? You should always test wires before you tap into them. Exception to this is far, few, and largely dependent on how good and trust worthy the wiring info you have is. Personally, I only trust factory wiring diagrams everything else has to prove it's worth and I even test wires when using a factory wiring diagram. It's a good habit and you can never be too sure before you solder onto a wire.

howie ll wrote:

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Do you know how to test for tach?
Also once more, does the CAN module your using have a dedicated tach output?
Frankly I don't think unqualified/inexperienced persons should go with W2W, too many chances for a mistake.

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By the install guide, the alca does NOT have tach output on this firmware. Really sucks if you ask me.

How do I test for tach?

Sooo predictable.
Take your DMM, set it to 20VAC*, black probe to battery ground, red probe to suspect wire.
Start your engine. The correct wire should give you a reading of 2-5VAC*.
If you increase the revs voltage should rise slightly. This should only show a reading with the engine running.
*Please note AC voltage, NOT DC.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Now I'll tell you what your problems are.
You're following the install guides parrot fashion and you don't quite understand the how or why of what you're doing, definitely not testing at every stage which is what Catback hinted at and I know Kregg and I do.
Don't be afraid to ask questions BEFORE you do anything. We are here to help, we can't if you do something silly without asking it will only cost you money.
Out of interest if I'm doing a vehicle for the first time, I'll download ALL the install guides I can find, I print these out and on the job (mobile install) I carry a 4G iPad, paper copies and a laptop in case I have to reflash a module plus a Bitwriter.
I don't trust ANY guide unless to use Kreg's expression I can test and verify.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

With that era Civic, the F.I. tach signal measures under 1 V AC at idle. It is very low and some R/S systems have trouble learning
the signal. Your Viper system should have no issues.   Additionally, I have gotten a Engine Check Light on those Civic's just by DMM
testing, connecting and doing a Tach learn. The CEL does go away quickly with a few start-up's and miles.

While the info found on this forum is very accurate and given with best intentions, it is always prudent to test and verify every wire
possible prior to making the R/S connection. Some wires / signals can't be easily tested ( like Key Data and the SWC signal in your
application ), so extreme care should be used with these wires. This can be accomplished by using any and all info, available from
any trusted source, that includes things like connector location, connector color, number of pins, wire colors, wire gauge, etc.

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Soldering is fun!

As an example the plug carrying data and SWC is white on US models and green on Euro models. Also be very careful with those colours, they don't match for colours one light green is very vague, confirm by pin numbers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I think I found out what caused the check engine.....



It was inside the rubber grommet of the main wire harness. I was poking a hole to run the tach wire to the engine bay with a screw driver.

Even what you're doing is an art, the grommet on the Euro version is right in the centre at the bulkhead.
I use a cabinet (very long blade) screwdriver with the tip ground down to a rounded edge not point, then and I don't know if it's available in the US but white plastic covered wire used for threading through net curtains. Very flexible and with a dab of WD40 will go anywhere!
Similar, welding rod, bicycle brake cable.
Just remembered on the Hondas I use a lock-blade knife to cut into the grommet away from existing wiring.
By the way that cable looks burnt out to me not torn.
You didn't have the ignition or lights on whilst you were poking through the grommet did you? Oops. Big no-no.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Check engine light is still on.

Yes, they are burnt. Key is not in the ignition when I was working on it.

Will you've shorted something out there, disconnect battery and then check all your fuses, reconnect battery after about 20 minutes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Obd scanner says "linkage error".

mannydelrosario wrote:

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Obd scanner says "linkage error".

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That says very little, the actual code would be better but this isn't a car repair forum so no telling if someone here can help you with it.

Perhaps as in either fuse linkage or connector block not properly pushed home. AGAIN check your fuses.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Perhaps as in either fuse linkage or connector block not properly pushed home. AGAIN check your fuses.

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It's always good to check fuses but I was thinking more along the lines of transmission shift linkage but now I'm wondering if the scanner successfully pulled codes or is it unable to link up with the computer and comes up with "linkage error"

The joys of having wonderful equipment and not using it properly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Have you checked the fuses yet with the battery disconnected?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I check all the mini low profile fuses. They are all good. The square transparent type, I just checked visually.

Is there a possibility that the factory anti theft is not properly bypassed? I don't hear the fuel pump priming.

Check engine light is still on. It cranks but not start.

So now go back and check them properly. Visually is NOT the way top check them. If you don't know how, ASK.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

More likely you've damaged the factory immobiliser or the fuse engine management that controls the fuel pump.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

How do I properly check for fuses especially the square transparent top type using a DMM.

Set meter to continuity, one probe to each leg.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did a factory reset for the iDatalink ALCA, Installation mode selection (W2W, 2 blinks. and module programming procedure. The light stay red. is does not recognize my key?

Solve one problem at a timed, get your car running.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Solve one problem at a timed, get your car running.

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Agreed, you need to be able to start the car with the key before you try to get remote start working. Pull all the aftermarket crap out if you have to - A running car with no alarm/remote start is better than an alarm/remote start in a car that doesn't run and no sane person is going to bother installing a remote start in a car that doesn't start with the key.

I removed the Viper and iDatalink and restore the car in its original wiring. My car starts now and no more check engine. How can I check if my ADS-ALCA is properly flashed?

Improperly flashed it wouldn't affect the car, you've made a wiring error somewhere.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Great the car is unscathed. Now you can install the R/S in sections, do some and then check to make sure the car and it's functions still works, then do some more, rinse and repeat until finished. Probably leave the alca until last.

Also we can't stress enough, certainty and not hope when connecting this to that. You should have absolute certainty in the wire you want to connect and where your connecting it to. If you don't then you need to obtain this certainty by asking, testing, double checking, or any means possible. To not do this is just a hope and prayer you don't let the smoke out. And once you let it out you'll have a hell of a time getting it back in.

I really need this iDatalink checked out. I can't get over the fact that the module did not recognize my key chip.

The alca won't program if it's not wired up correctly, but you can always take it up to a shop that'll install it for you.

X 2 with Catback's last post.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

To add to Catback's comments if you decide to go ahead once more and install please make sure that at every stage having tested, verified and made your connection, check your vehicle functions. A jump start power pack may come in handy.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do I need a relay?

For what? And if so you'll need a diode.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
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Relay for starter kill.

Is it worth telling you yet once more to read the instructions?
GREEN and VIOLET H3.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
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I have read it many times. Did not mention any external relay.

That's because there isn't one and if you read the instructions you would have realised that green and violet are 87a and 30 of an internal starter cut relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Nope. There's no 87a for green and violet. Only on Pink/Black which is not used. Is the flex relay internal and built-in into the car?

I am asking if I need an external relay for the starter kill?

Equivalent to. Just forget about an external relay. Cut starter wire, green to switch side, violet to starter side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.